Presentation: our new coach jacket to face the cold seasons

Présentation : notre nouvelle coach jacket pour affronter les saisons froides
Brand review: LaneFortyfive Reading Presentation: our new coach jacket to face the cold seasons Next Our guide to straight cut pants

The Oropa, our new quilted jacket

It's time to introduce you to one of the most versatile outdoor jackets from our fall/winter collection! This notion of versatility is very important to me, because I like this idea of ​​having a piece that can be used on several occasions and in different temperatures.

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So more than ever, I wanted a piece that was very comfortable and pleasant to wear, thanks to:

  • a slight stretch in the outer fabric
  • high-end insulation
  • and a very soft lining

But before we get into the technical stuff, let’s see why we chose this design…

A story that begins in 2020…

In the middle of the April 2020 lockdown, we are releasing a coach jacket revisited in our own way , with a Japanese fabric and Climashield® insulation.

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It was a lovely welcome from you, and I knew we would end up working on this shape again.

Indeed, the coach jacket is a piece that combines sport, leadership, urban cultures and even the FBI…

History of the coach jacket: how did it become a legend?

Yes, it is a garment very present in streetwear, where its simple and timeless design crosses the ages without too many problems.

It all started in the 80s. In the US, coaches needed comfortable clothing that was resistant to wind and a little downpour.

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This garment also had to be practical, so that you could easily put on or remove layers of clothing underneath depending on the time of training.

The coach being a person with leadership, who arouses respect and admiration, it is therefore logical that this garment began to build his aura.

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Streetwear and coach jacket

Then in the 90s, American streetwear raided the sports wardrobe, notably appropriating the coach jacket.

Are these loans due to the desire to break codes of authority and divert them? Or is it simply because many young Americans were fans of basketball and all the clothing that goes with it?

You choose !

The story of the coach jacket was launched: it is not uncommon to find legendary groups like Public Enemy or NWA posing in a coach jacket.

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NWA and the coach jacket, a long love story.

On the brand side, the coach jacket is becoming an essential piece of a streetwear wardrobe, such as Homeboy (which claims to have been a pioneer in the distribution of the coach jacket in 1988), Stüssy or more recently, Supreme.

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The Supreme coach jacket, one of their basics that the brand offers in numerous versions.

It is such a functional and popular piece of clothing that it will even become the uniform of FBI agents!

But this time, we wanted to go more, to give a stronger visual, that's why we decided to quilt this jacket.

Why a padded coach jacket?

It's literally a type of clothing that has a foot in:

  • an outdoor universe, with a design highly appreciated by renowned heritage brands,
  • and a more urban universe, because it is a piece that likes to be diverted and worn in more dressy outfits.

The design is therefore very versatile, with a visual style from the quilting and the exterior fabric.

To wear with your most casual outfits as well as your formal outfits! Look at all the possibilities offered by this type of clothing:

Now, what fabric to use to have an urban look on a sportswear garment? A woolen fabric woven in Italy!

A woolen fabric from the Italian Tollegno

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© Tollegno 1900

The Tollegno factory.

This is the particularity of this jacket: the exterior is a wool fabric spun in Italy, at Tollegno.

It contains 2% elastane for added comfort, especially if you wear this jacket with a thick knit underneath.

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I like this contrast between the elegance of wool and the relaxation of quilting. And it is this same wool which gives it a less technical and more urban appearance.

For the more technical, it is a wool with a thickness of 203g/m2, a usual weight for 4-season suits.

Having wool as an exterior fabric also has intrinsic qualities to this fabulous natural material:

  • a material that regulates your temperature well, perfect for a wide thermal range,
  • drying faster than cotton,
  • and zero odor !
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We chose two colors that you see in the photos:

  • a gray green, close to “foliage green”, a military color that I love,
  • and a timeless elegant navy blue.

Choose according to your style!

A very soft organic cotton lining

If you're a wearer of our Milo wool overshirt , this lining should mean something to you, since it's the same one!

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It is therefore an organic cotton jersey, phenomenally soft.

The interest? Have a very pleasant contact against the skin, if for example you wear this jacket over a short-sleeved piece.

This lining plays an important role, it contributes greatly to this comforting effect when you put on this jacket.

And the cut?

I have learned some lessons from the past, so it was designed to comfortably wear thick clothes underneath: chunky knit, blazer, overshirt, etc.

Which brings me to an important point for understanding this piece: it was imagined as a very versatile outerwear, to be worn outside in a wide variety of temperatures rather than as a mid-layer to be worn indoors (which would have been a little “just right” for very cool temperatures).

And in fact, let's talk about this insulation which will prevent you from being cold...

Climashield® to keep you warm

And for the insulation, with the sporty DNA of this jacket, something along these lines was needed!

We therefore turned to Climashield®, this high-end insulation, made in the United States, used by the most prestigious outdoor brands.

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The Climashield APEX also has one of the best weight/warmth ratios on the market, its special feeling of warmth has comforted more than one hiker in cold conditions!

What is special about Climashield?

The first thing is that Climashield is the pioneer of “continuous filaments” .

In a very vintage video of which the manufacturers of technical materials have the secret, we can clearly see how the insulation works:

In fact, “classic” wadding is like pharmacy cotton, it falls apart .

This is a problem for clothing because, with repeated use, movement, washing or humidity, your insulation no longer looks like much in the end.

But this is not the case with Climashield!

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© Climashield

They are long continuous filaments which makes them, in a way, a “tear-proof” insulator . It's like trying to break a string by pulling on each side, lengthwise. Impossible I tell you!

And there are two very interesting advantages for us:

  • Perfect hold over time : Climashield does not tear when it is stretched, it does not clump or separate.
  • Highly compressible : it will return to its initial shape very quickly, which makes it very practical when you put this coach jacket in your suitcase for the weekend.

A technology that fights against fabric humidity

Finally, our Climashield® insulation is equipped with so-called “ Aquaban® ” technology (yes, I know, they are very strong in names): it keeps heat even when it is wet, while allowing perspiration to escape quickly. On a piece intended for mid-season this is a very useful feature.

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© Climashield

You might think that I am a real perfectionist but, having already done tests with less good quality insulation, I guarantee that it is much less pleasant : the feeling of dampness can set in quickly.

Another important thing to know: for Climashield to work well, it needs to have loft, it must not be excessively pressed against your body, because the insulation must not be crushed.

It should just sit on your chest when closed, and that's it.

It is therefore not a piece to choose too fitted. I simply advise you to choose your usual size .

We have ensured that even with a simple t-shirt, you are prepared for large thermal amplitudes.

In terms of thickness, we are using Climashield® 100g. It is a thickness that is perfect for autumn/winter/spring outerwear, with a preference for transition periods between two seasons.

Don't hesitate to wear this piece with a simple t-shirt, you would be surprised to see all the possibilities it offers.

Four pockets for your daily life

There are two exterior hand pockets, but also two large interior pockets to carry your reading of the day with you:

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And what about maintenance?

It's a machine washable wool, so you can wash it on a delicate program, cold in the machine!

Oropa coach jacket ID card

Fabrics:

  • 98% wool from Tollegno (Italy)
  • 2% elastane

Weight: 203 gr/m²

Origin of wool: Australia and New Zealand

Weaving and dyeing: Italy (Tollegno)

Spinning: Poland

Made in Portugal at Supercorte, our usual shirt workshop. The quilting is done in a partner workshop in Portugal.

Price: €290

Size guide: take your usual size from BonneGueule . Kilian, 1.84 m tall and 82 kg, wears a size 50. To access our size guide, click here .

Availability: available now on our e-shop here and in our stores .

Benoît Wojtenka Benoît Wojtenka
Benoit Wojtenka, co-founder

I founded BonneGueule.fr in 2007. Since then, I have been helping men build their style by providing them with clear and practical advice, but also more advanced thinking. I also like techwear, Japanese materials, sports and tea.

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