For more advice on cuts, go to the updated version of this article !
When it comes to jeans, when you don't know anything about them, you tend to think in a binary way: there are either wide jeans or slim jeans that stick all the way up the leg (if that's the case for you, read about it). First our article on how to choose men's jeans ).
Someone who knows little about it will almost systematically take refuge in the cut of wide jeans, to avoid the skinny cut which is not suitable for all body types.
And since we have been telling him for years that the most versatile jean is the Levi's 501 jean, he will end up with jeans with a cut that is too wide.
Don't fall into the trap of being too loose/too tight, it's simple.
Which cut of jeans to choose?
As said previously, the beginner thinks about fashion in a binary way: a piece of clothing is beautiful or ugly, a jacket is fitted or not, jeans are slim or wide.
To progress in your style, you must overcome these preconceptions , which includes discovering the main cuts of jeans.
There are four of them, each adapted to a very specific silhouette and style:
The bootcut jean cut
The bootcut cut has disappeared among men for several years. It crushes the silhouette with its widened opening at shoe level. You really have to be tall to be able to wear it.
Bootcut 527 cut from Levi's.
The straight jean cut
The classic straight cut , the most emblematic model of which is the 501 from Levi's. It's a timeless cut but it may not suit everyone. Depending on individual preferences, width can be a barrier.
The fullness in the thighs and calves can be impressive at first
The slim jean cut
Slim jeans disproportionate the silhouette and give the impression of jeans that are too small. If the jeans are of poor quality, the result will automatically fail. Conversely, some slim jeans can have an interesting aesthetic.
For example, here are well-cut slim jeans, they are neither too tight nor too wide.
The semi-slim jean cut
The straight cut, or semi-slim . The thighs are fitted, but the bottom of the leg keeps a decent opening (between 21 cm and 19 cm opening), we'll come to that in a moment, because it's this detail that makes all the difference.
Well-chosen semi-slim jeans look like this! Nîmes model. You see the difference with the 501
Why choose a semi-slim jean cut?
You will have understood, even if other cuts can be interesting, I am a fervent defender of the semi-slim. That's why :
- it adjusts your thighs and therefore refines your silhouette without giving you matchstick-shaped legs,
- it highlights your buttocks without molding them,
- it is suitable for a large number of body types . If you are thin, it will flatter you admirably, without drowning you or making you thinner too. If you are short, it will lengthen your silhouette, and finally, if you are a little strong, it will refine it considerably.
I know ! It can seem completely unnatural to wear a semi-slim if you're slim. But try it, and you will see that the proportions are much more harmonious than with wide jeans. Again, when you've worn jeans that float around your thighs your whole life, trying (and buying) fitted jeans can seem insurmountable.
However, remember that good style starts with precise cuts. This is also why I have my clients try several cuts. In this way, they learn and emerge able to identify the cuts best suited to their body shape.
To get an idea of this type of cut, just look at (and try) our semi-slim Nîmes model with 18.5 cm opening at the 1/2 leg.
When the jeans have a leg opening of between 20 and 21 cm (at this scale, one more centimeter changes everything), they have the advantage of allowing the wearing of fairly slim shoes (a pair of Richelieus for example), thing impossible with a 19 cm (the feet would appear too long in relation to the body).
That said, jeans with a 19 cm opening go perfectly with high-top sneakers or ankle boots.
The fit of our Nîmes jeans
The ideal in the long term is therefore to have:
- jeans with an opening of 21 cm to wear with slim or more imposing shoes,
- another 19 cm to accessorize with your sneakers, ankle boots and other small sizes.
Normally any good seller will be able to tell you what the aperture of a model is or measure it upon request.
Remember that whatever the opening of the legs, the cut at the thighs and buttocks must be perfectly adjusted: no excess material. But rest assured, it’s something that can be learned quickly.
Semi-slim, our favorite cuts
Here are the semi-slim models from the main brands that we recommend:
- Naked & Famous : unbeatable value for money for a good basic pair of jeans.
- Artisan studio : for purists! A completely raw canvas, neither washed nor soaked. Please note that the jeans will shrink 1 to 2 sizes after the first wash.
- Momotaro : a Japanese brand specializing in high-end jeans. Their pieces are incredible, and so are the prices.
- Fullcount: beautiful Japanese denim, with a rather wide offering. High-end prices.
- Mister Freedom: a Californian brand with a strong style. Very heavy jeans with very raw fabrics.
Without forgetting our own jeans...
With artisanal selvedge denim, we're not kidding. So we went to pick him up there, at Kurabo and Kuroki, in Okayama prefecture in Japan.
We also have an ecological approach, with selvedge fabrics from Candiani, the cleanest spinning mill in the world, located in an Italian natural park.
And in terms of washing, everything is done with ozone, to respect the canvas as much as nature and the craftsman.
