Before we even explain what the benefits of each cut are compared to the others, we'll have to start by dissecting a pair of jeans.
What makes one cut different from another and will suit a particular body type better? How do you know which name corresponds to which? What makes a semi-slim?
It's time to answer all that, so fasten your seatbelts . Here we go!
Deciphering the names of jeans cuts
Every brand has its little quirks, and it's not always easy to find your way among all these convoluted English names. That's why we're going to try to understand what a jean cut is made of and which adjective corresponds to what.
This little summary will give you some clues but it doesn't replace your eyes, of course!
First of all, you should know that jeans are divided into three parts:
- the waist, located... at the waist, that is to say from the belt to the middle of the buttocks,
- the upper part of the leg, which goes from the middle of the buttocks to the knees,
- and the lower part, everything below the knee.
Next, keep in mind that there are no exact rules regarding the names of cuts. American and Japanese jeans are generally less close to the body than European ones . And even within one of these two large groups, there are exceptions...
Momotaro has more fitted cuts than its Japanese counterparts especially for export, for example.
If our national Nicolò is looking for jeans that show off his rather short and muscular legs, he can try the most fitted cut from a brand like Momotaro or Oni. On the other hand, if he ever manages to slip into a Petit New Standard from APC, he will probably have to call the fire brigade to get him out, or he will have to choose his jeans one or two sizes larger, even if it means hanging a little at the waist.
This is why it is always good to remember to take a look at the size guides, because the morphology of the model posing in the photos of the eshop can easily be misleading.
That said, a few names come up often, and we'll see what they generally correspond to.
Anatomy of a jean cut
Waist: How high do jeans go?
The rise refers to the entire area above the crotch. It is an integral part of the fit and can influence the silhouette your jeans give you. As a general rule, the tighter the fit, the lower the rise. And remember: if your jeans are tight in the crotch, you are wearing them too high or too small.
There are mainly three types: high, medium and low.
We won't talk about the case of very high or very low sizes: it's more of a gimmick and suits very few people. (Credit: Pinterest)
High waist
The high waist, high rise or hi-rise sits just below the navel.
Since it goes up quite high, it is quite useful for hiding a little extra weight. Another strong point that will delight our not very tall friends: all this fabric above the crotch will visually lengthen your legs .
Be careful though, it can quickly have a little retro side that you have to know how to assume. (Credits: Oasis Armor)
The average size
The average size, medium or mid-rise , sits just above the hips. . It's not too high, not too low, it's the in-between for all of us with an average body type. It's also a handy way for little ones to lengthen their legs without overdoing it.
In short, it's the type of size that works on all body types , even when it's not the "ideal option."
Low waist
The low rise fits into the hollow of the pelvis . Seen by some as the great evil of the 2000s because of its omnipresence, it has its advantages as well as its faults. It highlights the shapes , and tall and thin people will appreciate it a lot for its ability to visually shorten the legs and balance the silhouette.
But this low waist is also rather connoted "young", and is not the most suitable for all those who are a little overweight.
Low-rise jeans should be avoided if you are overweight.
The upper leg
Below this size comes the upper leg, which will navigate between two shapes:
- cylindrical: the thickness of the leg is the same at the top of the thighs as at the knees,
- conical: the thickness of the leg narrows the lower you go.
If you have strong thighs, you know the benefit of a cylindrical upper leg that is not too tight! This is also the very definition of a regular top, which remains straight. It may seem a little retro on slimmer body types, but is beneficial to all cyclists who read us. The relaxed is a slightly less loose version of this style.
With a fairly similar inspiration, the loose leg tightens slightly after a very wide upper thigh which has an excess of material. This allows the jeans to have a particular rendering and the antipodes of the slim, but beware of the "falling" effect which can quickly arrive .
On the contrary, the slim is a little tighter but already starts from a fitted upper thigh. This is the most common shape for a few years now, which also suits most body types, except for the strongest thighs.
In recent years, most jeans have become slimmer. That said, there's been a growing shift toward looser fits: the shift in the opposite direction is slowly happening. (Credits: Pinterest)
Finally, the last most common shape is the skinny , which is designed to be very close to the leg all along the thigh and tighten quite strongly up to the knee. Without elastane, it is rather uncomfortable, and only the most slender can pass their thighs through it without problem.
The lower leg
Just like the top, the bottom of the leg can have both cylindrical and conical shapes.
The straight leg bottom is what is called "straight", cylindrical and not very fitted. Very practical for athletes who have strong calves, it is not necessarily the most suitable for those who have thin legs. It is also a good option for tall and muscular men, or men who are very overweight: since they will already have very visible thighs at the top, due to their volume, leaving a little more blur all along the ankle helps to rebalance the whole thing.
A tapered jean tapers below the knee (so it is conical) to open into a tight opening, and is close to the leg without sticking to it. This is the shape that will enhance most body types .
A tapered fit has a little ease in the thighs, then tapers from the knee to the bottom of the leg. (Credits: The Idle Man)
On a tight fit, the material is very tight all along the leg and forms a cylinder close to the body. We therefore have a very fitted cut but with a reasonable ankle opening that allows you to wear high shoes. It is also a good way for tall, thin people to keep a fitted cut without creating the "clown feet" effect that they might have on tight bottoms.
The famous skinny (him again), as for him, is very fitted and tapered, which generally gives a cut that sticks to the leg all along (hence its name). To be reserved for the youngest and thinnest among us.
The details
We sometimes ignore them a little, but the details are important!
Pockets are a very telling example. Sometimes, when you see a pair of jeans from the back, you feel that something is wrong without being able to explain it. This is because pockets are a rather difficult element to achieve, which can greatly affect the structure of the piece.
The bigger they are, the more they hide the shapes and give a retro look to the room . If they are too small, on the contrary, they can have a slightly feminine side by highlighting the curve of the buttocks too much. You have to find the balance that suits you!
Without seeming to, pockets play on the final balance of your jeans.
We are often asked about setbacks. . They are not as important as they seem.
A thin cuff (about 2 to 4 cm) will serve to structure the lower leg a little more and can be useful for those who want to add thickness to their silhouette. If it is very high, it will have a retro side and will be very suitable for a workwear look.
What are semi-slim jeans anyway?
We've been harping on about this famous semi-slim for a few years now. It's the cut that flatters you the most, it's the cut that's easiest to wear, it's the cut that slims your legs... In short, we love the semi-slim!
Yes, but I can't count the number of questions we've received that basically said "I'm looking for a semi-slim but no brand has a cut with that name". And it's true, we gave some advice 5 years ago , but the market has changed since then. So we thought it was time to take stock.
Let's start at the beginning: Strictly speaking, "semi-slim" is not a cut in itself. It's more of a family of cuts that gives an expected result: fitted, but not tight.
A silhouette that is highlighted, without ever being cramped.
The standard cut for almost everyone
For the vast majority of us, this is a relatively simple effect to obtain. This is precisely what most brands are trying to do with their "standard" models, because it is a very popular result today, in line with current aesthetic standards. And beyond the trends, it is simply a cut that works, which enhances most body types.
Semi-slim is generally a "mid-rise" size, which suits all body types without changing the silhouette much .
Below is a fitted upper leg, which hugs the shape of the thighs without compressing them. This allows the jeans to remain comfortable, while flattering the leg line.
The knee has little excess fabric, and the entire lower leg is fitted, with a slightly tapered shape, gradually narrowing to a 16-18cm opening.
So anyone can wear any type of shoe without ending up with an unstylish "clown feet" effect.
Here is the rendering of a semi-slim on a "standard" morphology, without artifice. The thighs and buttocks are well defined, and the cut is close to the body without sticking to Lucas.
The case of very marked morphologies
But not everyone is "like everyone else", and it happens that the semi-slim standard does not give the expected effect for those who have very marked characteristics.
So we're going to focus a little on those who have trouble finding jeans that fit them, while keeping in mind that you shouldn't think in a binary way: I'm talking about more "extreme" cases here. It's up to you to adapt these tips according to your needs.
For those with short, thick legs , you'll want to try adding length to your legs to make your silhouette a little more vertical. Have you ever noticed how a cone-shaped object looks longer than a cylinder of the same size? That's the concept we're going to use here.
For comfort, we will favor an upper leg that leaves a little room for the thighs. To refine the silhouette, the jeans will then tighten up to the bottom of the leg with a rather strong taper . A narrow opening (around 16cm) will not be a problem, on the contrary! This morphology is generally associated with small to normal sizes, thus giving the impression of larger feet.
Short and very thin legs need length, but not to be refined. We therefore also start with a loose upper leg that tightens up to the knee, but with a slightly tightened lower leg that will thicken these legs.
Along the same lines, someone with long, thin legs will want to thicken them. We therefore prefer a well-fitted thigh to make it appear wider, and a straight but very fitted lower leg ( tight style) to maintain a rather imposing cylindrical appearance to compensate for the natural shape.
A little tip for long, thin legs: rolling up the bottom of the jeans breaks up the line of the legs. Note, however, that the skinny cut further accentuates the slenderness of the man's ankles, even if it is compensated by these very marked cuffs. (Credits: Pinterest)
And you probably guessed it, but for long and thick legs , we will combine some principles that we have already talked about above. To avoid being compressed, we choose an upper leg that lets the thighs breathe. And since the leg does not need to be excessively lengthened, we can allow ourselves a lower leg that is a little straighter than average, or with a very light taper .
What about the other cuts?
Yes, there’s more to life than semi-slim!
This is the safest choice most of the time, but that doesn't mean that more "exotic" cuts are automatically a red card. They have a considerable advantage: they are not the current standard, and can therefore be used to make outfits with stronger stylistic choices.
In fact, we can even say that there are two ways of perceiving a cut: either think of it so that it highlights a body, or make it take precedence over anatomical concepts to use it as a style statement , a way of asserting a look.
Straight-cut jeans, just for dad?
When we think "straight cut", we all have in mind a kind of cliché of the perfect dad. A little paunchy, he hides his plumpness behind a rather loose cut, in denim that the Californian sun has slowly faded to a light blue, and displays with a big smile his good nature, as well as his sartorial negligence.
But what we must not forget is that this cut was a standard a few decades ago, and that is where its retro aspect comes from. Do "retro" and "vintage" mean outdated? At BonneGueule, we tend to think quite the opposite .
Visvim x APC for a Classic streetwear outfit => on the blog (link in bio) ___________ Cap: #newera Jacket and jeans: #apc Kicks & bag: #visvim Watch: #gshock _____
Our colleague Boris from Borasification has often distinguished himself in the mastery of this cut.
Just because it's less fashionable now doesn't mean this cut isn't still useful for certain body types. Anyone with strong thighs will understand me.
A pair of straight jeans will be much more comfortable, and if the wearer is experienced enough to match them with consistent cuts in the rest of the outfit, the result can be quite convincing in addition to being original. (By the way, if you want to understand how to balance the volumes of a silhouette, here is the article on oversized looks )
The retro side of this cut can also be used wisely to assert a workwear style , for example. Have you ever seen a cowboy with extra-tight jeans? Neither have we. And then, it must be said that it is so much more practical with big adventurer boots that it would be a shame to deprive yourself of it.
Skinny jeans, for rebellious teens?
Very trendy in middle and high schools for a few years, skinny jeans now have a bad reputation. We readily associate them with the looks of teenagers who want to show off their curves to make mom and dad angry. We wouldn't be so far from the mark, to tell the truth...
The skinny jeans originated from the countercultures of the 50s to 70s, particularly among rockers who wanted to shock public opinion with their obscene dances, then among punks. It's not for nothing that they are tight: they highlight the curves, and they immediately appealed to young people who wanted to assert themselves in their bodies, which was not seen in a good light at the time.
Given its cultural heritage, the skinny lends itself more to rock-inspired looks.
More comfortable than you might think , the skinny is still to be reserved for a rather young and thin audience. It is a cut that does not forgive.
The case of the carrot cutter
Much like the semi-slim, the carrot cut encompasses a large number of different cuts that don't fit into the other categories.
And it must be said that carrot cuts are not all alike. The characteristic shape of this cut leaves a lot of room in the thighs before getting tighter and tighter down the leg, with a crotch that is often low . But the difference in fit between the top and bottom of the jeans is decided by the brand, and each one does what it wants, for results that can vary completely.
Here is a good example of a carrot cut, rather moderate. Make sure you have the basics of denim before trying this kind of cut.
Overall, this cut is rather connoted "fashion", and that is partly why we find so many different ones: designers have fun with it to modify the silhouettes of their models. It is a cut that, when pushed to the extreme, can serve as a creative medium to "deconstruct" bodies, rather than trying to enhance them.
This is also the reason why it is essential to try it on before buying: it is very difficult to see how it will look on you, it will not suit all body types depending on the model, and can sometimes go a little too far to be recommended.
The final word...
This article is a guide, it is here to help you find your way better when choosing your jeans.
The semi-slim is the most standard option we can recommend: it is the best way to achieve a satisfactory result that balances the silhouette and highlights your legs, in addition to being timeless.
This is what we recommend for a first pair of jeans that will serve as the basis for your wardrobe for various outfits.
But we must not forget that playing with the cut of jeans (a basic piece par excellence) is a very good way to modify your silhouette to stick to a more personal style, more in tune with each person's personal affinities.
And above all, try, again and again! Those carrot jeans that look really weird when flat? Try them! Who knows, they might be your next favorite pair of jeans!
