Before even explaining what the advantage of each cut is compared to the others, we will have to start by dissecting a pair of jeans.
What makes one cut different from another and will suit a particular body shape better? How do you know which name corresponds to which? What makes a semi-slim?
It's time to answer all of this, so buckle up . We left !
Deciphering the name of jeans cuts
Each brand has its little quirks, and it is not always easy to find your way among all these convoluted English names. This is why we will try to understand what a cut of jeans is made of and which adjective corresponds to which.
This little guide will give you clues but it does not replace your eyes, of course!
First of all, you should know that jeans are separated into three parts:
- the waist, located... at the waist, that is to say from the belt to the middle of the buttocks,
- the upper part of the leg, which goes from the middle of the buttocks to the knees,
- and the lower part, everything below the knee.
Next, keep in mind that there are no exact rules regarding the names of the cuts. American and Japanese jeans are generally less close-fitting than European ones . And even within one of these two large groups, there are exceptions...
Momotaro has slimmer cuts than its Japanese counterparts, especially for export, for example.
If our national Nicolò is looking for jeans that highlight his rather short and muscular legs, he will be able to try the most fitted cut from a brand like Momotaro or Oni. On the other hand, if he ever manages to slip into a Petit New Standard from APC, he will probably have to call the firefighters to get him out, or he will have to choose his jeans one or two sizes larger, even if it means floating a little at the belt.
This is why it is always good to remember to take a look at the size guides, because the morphology of the model posing in the eshop photos can easily be misleading.
That said, a few names come up often, and we'll see what they generally correspond to.
Anatomy of a jean cut
Waist: how far do the jeans go up?
The waist refers to the entire part above the crotch. It is an integral part of the cut and can influence the silhouette your jeans give you. As a general rule, the tighter the fit, the lower the rise. And don't forget: if the jeans are tight in the crotch, you're wearing them too high or they're too small.
There are mainly three types: high, medium and low.
We will not talk about the case of very high or very low sizes: it is more of a gimmick and fits quite a few people. (Credit: Pinterest)
The high waist
The high waist, high rise or hi-rise sits just below the navel.
Since it goes up quite high, it is quite useful for hiding a little overweight. Another strong point that will delight our not very tall friends: all this fabric above the crotch will visually lengthen your legs .
Be careful though, it can quickly have a little retro side that you have to know how to embrace. (Credits: Oasis Armor)
Average size
The average size, medium or mid-rise , sits just at the top of the hips
In short, this is the type of size that works for all body types , even when it is not the “ideal option”.
Low waist
The low or low rise waist fits into the hollow of the pelvis
But this low waist also has a "young" connotation, and is not the most suitable for those who are a little overweight.
Low-rise jeans should be avoided if you are overweight.
The upper leg
Below this size comes the upper leg, which will navigate between two shapes:
- cylindrical: the thickness of the leg is the same at the top of the thighs as at the knees,
- conical: the thickness of the leg narrows the further down you go.
If you have strong thighs, you know the benefit of a cylindrical upper leg that is not too fitted! It's the very definition of a regular top, which stays straight. It may seem a little retro on thinner body types, but is beneficial to all the cyclists who read us. The relaxed is a slightly looser variation of this style.
From a fairly similar inspiration, the loose leg tightens slightly after a very wide upper thigh which has excess material. This allows the jeans to have a particular look and the opposite of slim, but be careful of the "sagging" effect which can quickly occur.
On the contrary, the slim is a little tighter but already starts from a fitted upper thigh. It is this shape which has been the most common for several years, which also suits most body types, apart from the strongest thighs.
In recent years, most jeans have become thinner. That said, we are seeing an increasing return towards looser cuts: the change in the opposite direction is taking place slowly. (Credits: Pinterest)
Finally, the last and most common shape is the skinny , which is designed to be very close to the leg all the way to the thigh and to tighten quite strongly up to the knee. Without elastane, it's rather uncomfortable, and only the slimmest can pass their thighs through it without problem.
The lower leg
Just like the top, the lower leg can have both cylindrical and conical shapes.
The straight lower leg is what we call "straight", cylindrical and not very fitted. Very practical for athletes who have strong calves, it is not necessarily the most suitable for those who have thin legs. It is also a good option for tall and muscular men, or men who are very overweight: since they will already have very visible thighs at the top, due to their volume, leave a little more blur all the way of the ankle allows you to rebalance everything.
Tapered jeans taper below the knee (so they are tapered) to create a tight opening, and are close to the leg without clinging to it. It is this shape that will highlight most body types .
A tapered cut has a little ease in the thighs, then tightens from the knee to the bottom of the legs. (Credits: The Idle Man)
On a tight cut, the material is very tight all along the leg and forms a cylinder close to the body. We therefore have a very fitted cut but with a reasonable ankle opening which allows you to wear high-top shoes. It's also a good way for tall people to keep a snug fit without creating the "clown feet" effect they might have on too tight bottoms.
The famous skinny (again), for its part, is very fitted and tapered, which generally gives a cut that sticks to the leg all the way (hence its name). To be reserved for the youngest and finest among us.
The details
We sometimes ignore them a little, but the details are important!
Pockets are a very telling example. Sometimes, when you see a pair of jeans from the back, you feel something is wrong without being able to explain it. This is because pockets are a rather difficult element to achieve, which can have a lot of impact on the structure of the room.
The more imposing they are, the more they hide the shapes and give a retro look to the room . If they are too small, on the contrary, they can have a slightly feminine side by emphasizing the curve of the buttocks too much. You need to find the balance that suits you!
Seemingly nothing, pockets play a role in the final balance of your jeans.
We are often asked about setbacks
A thin cuff (approximately 2 to 4 cm) will serve to further structure the lower leg and can be useful for those who want to add thickness to their silhouette. If it is very high, it will have a retro side and will be very suitable for a workwear look.
What are semi-slim jeans anyway?
We've been harping on about this famous semi-slim for several years now. It's the cut that highlights you the most, it's the cut that's most easy to wear, it's the cut that slims your legs... In short, we like semi-slim!
Yes, but I can't count the number of questions we received that basically said "I'm looking for a semi-slim but no brand has a fit with that name." And it's true, we gave some advice 5 years ago already , but the market has changed since then. So we said to ourselves that it was time to take stock.
Let's start at the beginning: Strictly speaking, "semi-slim" is not a cut in itself. It's more of a cut family that gives the desired result: fitted, but not tight.
An underlined silhouette, without ever being constricted.
The standard fit for almost everyone
For the vast majority of us, this is a relatively simple effect to obtain. This is precisely what most brands seek to do with their “standard” models, because it is a rendering that is very appreciated today, in line with current aesthetic standards. And beyond the trends, it's quite simply a cut that works, which enhances most bodies.
Semi-slim is generally a "mid-rise" size, which fits all body types without significantly modifying the silhouette .
Below we find a fitted upper leg, which follows the shape of the thighs without compressing them. This allows the jeans to remain comfortable, while flattering the leg line.
The knee has little excess fabric, and the entire lower leg is fitted, with a slightly conical shape, gradually tightening to reach an opening of 16 to 18 cm.
Everyone can therefore wear any type of shoes without ending up with a not very elegant “clown feet” effect.
Here is the rendering of a semi-slim on a "standard" morphology, without artifice. The thighs and buttocks are well defined, and the cut is close to the body without sticking to Lucas.
The case of very marked morphologies
But not everyone is "like everyone else", and it happens that the semi-slim standard does not give the expected effect for those who have very marked characteristics.
We will therefore focus a little on those who have difficulty finding jeans that fit them, while keeping in mind that we should not think in a binary way: I am talking here about more "extreme" scenarios. It's up to you to adapt these tips according to your needs.
For those who have short and thick legs , you will have to try to give them length to verticalize the silhouette a little. Ever notice how a cone-shaped object looks longer than a cylinder of the same size? It is this concept that we will use here.
For comfort, we will favor an upper leg that leaves a little room for the thighs. To refine the silhouette, the jeans will then tighten to the bottom of the leg with a rather strong taper . A narrow opening (within 16cm) will not pose a problem, on the contrary! This morphology is generally associated with small to normal sizes, therefore giving the impression of larger feet.
Short and very thin legs need length, but not to be refined. We therefore also start with a loose upper leg which tightens up to the knee, but with a slightly tightened lower leg which will thicken these legs.
In the same vein, someone who has long, thin legs will want to thicken them. We therefore prefer a well-fitted thigh to make it appear wider, and a straight but very fitted lower leg ( tight style) to maintain a rather imposing cylindrical appearance to compensate for the natural shape.
Little tip for long, thin legs: rolling the bottom of the jeans helps break up the line of the legs. Note, however, that the skinny cut further accentuates the slenderness of the gentleman's ankles, even if it is offset by these very marked lapels. (Credits: Pinterest)
And you probably guessed it, but for long and thick legs , we are going to combine certain principles that we have already talked about above. To avoid being compressed, we choose a leg top that lets the thighs breathe. And since the leg does not need to be excessively extended, you can afford a lower leg that is a little straighter than average, or with a very light taper .
And the other cuts, then?
Yes, there's more than just semi-slim in life!
It's the safest choice most of the time, but that doesn't mean that more "exotic" cuts are automatically red card.
In fact, we can even say that there are two ways of perceiving a cut: either think of it so that it highlights a body, or make it take precedence over anatomical concepts to use it as a bias of style , a way of asserting a look.
Straight cut jeans, reserved for dad?
When we think "straight cut", we all have in mind a kind of cliché of the perfect dad. A little paunchy, he hides his plumpness behind a rather loose cut, in denim that the Californian sun has gently faded until it becomes light blue, and displays with a big smile his good nature, as well as his carelessness in clothing.
But what we must not forget is that this cut was a standard a few decades ago, and that is where its retro appearance comes from. Do “retro” and “vintage” mean outdated? At BonneGueule, we tend to think quite the opposite .
Visvim x APC for a Classic streetwear outfit => on the blog (link in bio) ___________ Cap: #newera Jacket and jeans: #apc Kicks & bag: #visvim Watch: #gshock _____
Our colleague Boris de Borasification has often distinguished himself in the mastery of this cut.
It's not because it's less fashionable now that this cut is no longer useful for certain body types. Anyone with strong thighs will understand me.
Straight jeans will be much more comfortable, and if the wearer is experienced enough to harmonize them with consistent cuts in the rest of the outfit, the result can be quite convincing in addition to being original. (Besides, if you want to understand how to balance the volumes of a silhouette, click here for the article on oversized looks )
The retro side of this cut can also be used wisely to assert a workwear style , for example. Have you ever seen a cowboy in extra-tight jeans? We neither. And then, it must be said that it is so much more practical with big adventurer boots that it would be a shame to do without them.
Skinny cut jeans, for rebellious teenagers?
Very trendy in middle and high schools for a few years, skinny jeans now have a bad press. We readily associate them with the looks of teenagers who want to show off their shapes to enrage mom and dad. We wouldn't be that far from the mark, to tell the truth...
The skinny has its origins in the countercultures of the 50s to 70s, notably among rockers who wanted to shock public opinion with their obscene dances, then among punks. It's not for nothing that it is tight: it highlights the shapes, and it immediately appealed to young people who wanted to assert themselves in their body, which was not viewed favorably at the time.
Given its cultural heritage, the skinny lends itself more to rock-inspired looks.
More comfortable than you might think
The case of carrot cutting
Just like the semi-slim, the carrot cut brings together a large number of different cuts that do not fit into the other categories.
And it must be said that not all carrot cuts are the same. The characteristic shape of this cut leaves a lot of room in the thighs before tightening more and more down to the bottom of the leg, with an often low crotch
Here, a good example of a rather moderate carrot cut. Make sure you have the denim basics before trying this type of cut.
Overall, this cut has more of a "fashion" connotation, and that's partly why we find so many different ones: designers have fun with it to modify the silhouettes of their models. It is a cut which, when taken to the extreme, can serve as a creative support to “deconstruct” bodies, rather than trying to enhance them.
This is also the reason why it is imperative to try it on before purchasing: it is very difficult to realize what it can look like on you, will not suit all body types depending on the model, and can sometimes go a little too far to be advisable.
The final word...
This article is a guide, it is here to help you find your way better when choosing your jeans.
The semi-slim is the most standard option that we can recommend: it is the best way to obtain a satisfactory result which balances the silhouette and highlights your legs, in addition to being timeless.
This is what we recommend for a first pair of jeans that will serve as a basis for your wardrobe for diverse and varied outfits.
But we must not forget that playing with the cut of jeans (basic piece par excellence) is a very good way to modify your silhouette to stick to a more personal style, more in line with each person's personal affinities.
And above all, try again and again! Those carrot jeans that look really weird when laid flat? Test it! Who knows, they might be your next favorite pair of jeans!
