Advice: the guide to truly essential men's basics - Part 4, shoes

Here it is: the fourth and final part of our guide to men's basics . A sartorial road trip in which we give you concrete advice to help you build your stylistic identity, starting by mastering the essentials .

We covered tops in the first part of our road trip , pants in the second part , suits in the third part . Let's finish our tour of the basics with shoes. How to choose and wear them? We tell you everything.

There is no ultimate shoe. The ideal is to have at least a pair for each use : a formal pair in leather when you need to go all out, a more casual pair (always in leather) to relieve pressure and a casual pair when comfort is a priority. We are of course not denying the advantages of espadrilles, sandals or even rain boots - but this article tends to list the essential basics of the shoe closet , and these models seem less of a priority to us.

1. A nice pair of shoes

Shoes refer to a pair of leather shoes, whose sole is rigid and often enhanced by a small heel. Contrary to what one might think, the shoe is not reserved for strictly formal settings : it can be worn with a suit, but also to add a touch of elegance to a more casual outfit.

In the family of so-called formal shoes, we find two essential basics : the Derby and the Richelieu .

They are easily distinguished by looking at the laces. The Richelieu has the lacing directly on its body, while the Derby has a panel of additional leather dedicated to the eyelets.

These are the easiest shoes to choose and match, and they can last a very long time if you take care of them and/or know a good shoemaker . There are obviously other types of dress leather shoes: buckled shoes, Chukkas, ankle boots... but they are more difficult to tame. To find out everything about it, click here .

CHOOSE YOUR SHOES WELL

Here are some criteria to keep in mind when purchasing:

• the quality of the leather : make sure that the leather of the shoe is as dense as possible - this is what we call full-grain leather. This means that the skin has kept all its layers of epidermis (including its exterior) intact after tanning. Full grain leathers are not only the most durable , but also those that patina the best . This is an essential purchasing criterion.
• assembling the shoe : closely inspect the details and seams. A good shoe is one where the upper (the upper part of the shoe) is sewn to the sole . If this is not the case, it is often a sign of poor quality. A shoe with glue does not last long and it is not possible to repair it.

• the sole: it must be made of good quality leather. Make sure the sole is not too hard, as this will make wearing the shoe uncomfortable.

Moreover, if you want to delve deeper into the subject and see what type of shoes suits you best, Jordan has written to learn how to recognize if a pair is casual or formal and how to wear them .

HOW TO WEAR YOUR SHOES PROPERLY

Given the elegance and "serious" side of the shoes mentioned above, favor their use when you wear a suit or dress pants. It is possible to pair shoes (Derbies in particular, a micron less formal than Richelieus) with jeans or chinos, but you have to be careful not to make the whole outfit clash too much. It's all about measure and balance.

Keep in mind that not all colors necessarily go together and it is important to ensure that the type of leather is suitable for the outfit you choose.

Another key element? The pair of socks. Choose a long pair dark in color, which won't clash too much with the rest of your outfit.

OUR BONNEGUEULE SHOES

We have some shoes for you, just to dress your feet elegantly:

OTHER ADDRESSES WHERE TO FIND GOOD SHOES:

• Seventh Width : slim and elegant mid-range models, at a relatively affordable price.
• JM Weston : iconic brand of French dress shoes, with a wide range of basics. Top-of-the-line pricing.
• Crockett & Jones : English brand renowned for its attention to detail and the timeless elegance of its models.

2. Casual leather shoes

Whether at work, at the Sunday meal with your in-laws or on a romantic date, the casual leather shoe has so many uses that it has automatically earned a special place in the ideal men's closet .

There are many types of leather shoes:

• the moccasin : the perfect shoe to relax an overly dressy outfit, or conversely, dress up a casual outfit. While some criticize its atypical shape, the moccasin has the power to add an inimitable twist. No one remains indifferent.
• the Chelsea boot : a great classic. The tightening elastic brings a touch of modernity and elegance to the whole.

• the desert boot : the casual equivalent of the Chukka boot. Often made in suede leather or nubuck, it is a good alternative to complete an outfit without the hassle. It fits as much into an urban look as for a country stroll (if it's not raining).
• and by extension, the work boot : the workwear shoe par excellence. Like its cousin above, the work boot is a versatile shoe, perfect for the outdoors.

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR LEATHER SHOES?

To be sure you make the right choice, the usual criteria apply :

• the quality of the leather : it must be sufficiently dense, durable and have a smooth appearance.
• assembly details : the seams, assembly and finishes must be careful, which is a guarantee of quality.

• comfort : the sole and the interior lining must be comfortable and durable.
• color : before choosing colors that are difficult to wear, choose sober tones that do not clash with your clothes: brown, anthracite, cognac, navy, olive, etc.

WHAT TO PUT ON LEATHER SHOES?

Keep it simple . It's all a matter of context, preferences and the clothes with which you plan to display your beautiful shoes.

There are some well-known combinations , such as the desert boot which goes perfectly with chinos or light jeans, or the moccasin which goes as well with dress pants as with denim.

Once again, it's up to you to decide. A good pair of basic shoes should make your life easier, not more complicated . Don't fall into overthinking.

OUR BONNEGUEULE SHOES

If comfort and elegance are your main criteria, don't hesitate to take a look at our own leather shoes:

OTHER ADDRESSES WHERE TO FIND LEATHER SHOES:

• Alden : American brand with a wide range of boots and beautiful leather shoes. High quality, just like the price.
• Paraboot : French brand well known for its casual shoes with an inimitable style. Rather wide offer, good quality and French know-how.
• Jacques & Déméter : made in France, beautiful and durable. You can find all styles of leather shoes (including more formal shoes) at an affordable price.

3. A pair of sneakers to be comfortable

When comfort is your priority, the sneaker is naturally an essential shoe to have in your collection . The ultimate versatile shoe, the sneaker fits into almost all your looks. It brings a touch of modernity and can be chosen without too many problems.

It is today the most common type of shoe on the street, and for good reason: the offer on the market is immense .

CHOOSE YOUR SNEAKERS WELL

Just because sneakers are generally less expensive than shoes or leather shoes doesn't mean you should skimp on quality. When choosing your pair, check these criteria in the following order :

• comfort : the primary criterion. If once put on, the sneaker does not accept your foot, then you should move on.
• robustness : choose sneakers with durable materials (leather, natural fibers, etc.) which last better over time and which guarantee the fit of the foot.
• the sole : choose rubber soles, because they are resistant and comfortable. If the sole is sewn, this is another guarantee of quality that you will appreciate.
• the seams : the revealing detail. Take a close look at the seams of the sneaker: if there are at least 5 stitches per centimeter, it is quality manufacturing.

HOW TO INTEGRATE SNEAKERS INTO AN OUTFIT?

There are as many types of sneakers as there are ways to combine them . Not everything goes well with everything, and this is once again a problem that is resolved on a case-by-case basis.

Casual sneakers generally go with most casual outfits. You can even wear them with a more dressy outfit, provided you perfectly manage the balance of colors and the relevance of the association of the parts .

Experiment. Well chosen, most basics go with everything - it's up to you to discover what suits you best.

If necessary, you can watch Le Bon Look #5 which exhaustively summarizes the different existing models and how to wear them.

OUR BONNEGUEULE SNEAKERS

Your comfort is one of our priorities, so here are some pairs designed by us:

OTHER ADDRESSES WHERE TO FIND SNEAKERS:

• Doek : Japanese brand of canvas sneakers with a very good offering of basics, at an affordable price.
• Hoka : very sportswear French brand, which offers technical and comfortable models.
• Buttero : a very large choice of rather elegant basics, with good quality and a relatively affordable price.
• On Running : a very sporty offer, which includes a few discreet models that are easier to match.

Otherwise, you can consult our guide to buying your leather shoes: 50 brands to buy .

THE FINAL WORD

And there you have it, we've taken a look at the men's basics. It is important to keep in mind that each style, each person is unique. It's not a question of compiling an exhaustive list, but rather of giving you the basics and elements of inspiration, so that you can have fun later .

We don't want to drown you in injunctions to follow to the letter, but rather give you the right advice for building a simple and effective wardrobe .

Do not hesitate to ask any questions you have in the comments, we will be happy to answer you quickly!