Advice: the guide to truly essential men's basics - Part 3, suits

Welcome to the third part of our guide to men's basics . A sartorial road trip in which we give you concrete advice to help you build your stylistic identity, starting by mastering the essentials .

We covered tops in the first part of our road trip and pants in the second part . We will now address the subject of the suit: how to choose it, match it and finally, where to find the one that is made for you. (And to consult the last part of the guide, devoted to shoes, this is where it happens .)

The suit is no longer considered a basic by all men, and wrongly! While some people wear it every day at the office, others only have one, much too big, stored (or even forgotten) at the back of the cupboard. We find this rather unfortunate: know that once you have learned to tame the codes of formal style , you will be able to easily divert them in order to find your own style .

Wearing a mismatched suit, pairing jeans with a blazer, replacing suit pants with chinos... there are plenty of combinations available to you. And despite what you might think, mixing codes is child's play! Here, we will cover the basic points of the costume, in order to provide you with all the keys you need to have fun afterwards .

Buying a suit is not trivial, and even less so if it's the first time. Before you go hunting for the perfect outfit, let's discuss the criteria that will make the difference .

The most important: the cut of the suit . In tailor's language, we don't talk about cutting, but about bending . There is no ONE ultimate fit, it all depends on what you expect when you put on your suit.

To be sure not to make a mistake, make sure that the fits of the jacket and pants are rather adjusted . You shouldn't look like you're floating in them once you put them on.

You can also opt for a wider bend, which allows you to play with the volumes . Make sure that the whole is coherent, that the volumes of the pants and the jacket are adapted.

If you look in a mirror with a suit, its bend should be such that:

• from the front, the sides of the jacket should draw a nice curve without creases
• in profile, the jacket must follow the arch of your back, without bending at the level of the buttocks.

If your favorite jacket is not fitted correctly, it is possible to have it altered

Favor natural materials such as wool, cotton, linen, silk. Thanks to them, your costume will have texture, an inimitable charm and it will last longer than with synthetic or artificial materials.

Another good practice? Try to imagine what shirts and tops you would like to wear your suit with. It is necessary to check that the color combinations work , and that the top is adapted to the style of the chosen suit.

• Favor solid colors (or faux-plain, with material effects or very discreet patterns). Navy blue or medium gray are two ideal colors for a first purchase, as they are easy to match and wear .

• Check that the shoulder seam of the jacket fits perfectly with the tip of your shoulder . We emphasize this point heavily because it is impossible to retouch the shoulders of a suit jacket.

• Make sure the lapel of the jacket has density and is sufficiently marked . A beautiful, generous lapel is the kind of detail that makes all the difference. Not too generous though, a lapel that exceeds 8-9 centimeters in width is often difficult to wear.

• Make sure the waistband of the pants follows the lines of your body
• There should be no excess material at the thigh level. The pants should follow the silhouette of your leg , without constraining or molding it.
• At the level of the calves, leg opening should neither be too tight nor too wide. A more fitted leg opening is around 17/18cm (for a size M/48). A wider, more classic opening exceeds 20/21cm. If you're not entirely sure of yourself, aim for the middle: between 18 and 20cm, for example! And of course, if you have good calves, do accordingly and take it as wide as necessary. :)

• the ideal suit pants fall between the malleolus (the small bony ball of the ankle) and the top of the shoe . It’s up to everyone’s preferences. Make sure that there is no excess fabric , and that the pants do not break too much on your shoe. If the pants are too long, they risk causing several breaks on your shoes, which is not very elegant.

To become knowledgeable about costumes, a quick viewing of Good Look #13 is essential. And because where there's a suit, there's a tie, watching Good Look #14 can also be useful.

As seen above, the fit of a suit is essential. This is perhaps even the most important factor to take into account. For the rest, bet on the right color combinations and suitable shoes . Everything should be fine.

You can easily wear a suit with:

• a plain light shirt, the jacket closed and leather shoes on your feet
• a plain t-shirt, the open jacket and a pair of shoes city ​​or sneakers
• a thick turtleneck sweater and a pair of ankle boots

In a more informal style with:

• a more casual shirt (linen, flannel, silk, etc.) and espadrilles
• a top with a special collar such as a Mao collar, an officer collar, a henley or a polo shirt

Formal attire required? Want to add a touch of elegance to your daily life? We definitely have the right costume for you:

• Lubiam : beautiful tailored suits, with a touch of originality. Wide and qualitative offer.
• Ardentes Clipei : only one store in Paris, but unrivaled know-how and advice
• Pini Parma : flagship brand of the “sartoria italiana” style, which mixes elegance, audacity and tradition. A true aesthetic choice.
• Husbands : French brand reinterpreting traditional costumes (ready-to-wear) with a touch of modernity that goes well. Relatively high prices.
• Lanieri : high-end Italian brand working to order. Luxurious materials, know-how, tailor-made... and the price that goes with it.
• Atelier Mesure : French brand that combines modern technicality and Neapolitan elegance. High-end tailor-made, the brand offers beautiful ceremonial suits, in a rather formal register.

And There you go ! You now know everything you need to know to choose and wear a suit.

To finish in style, you can consult the last part of this guide, about shoes, by clicking here .

In the meantime, don't hesitate to ask us any questions you have in the comments, we will be happy to answer you!