Measurement Workshop Test: a suit for Pitti?

We have promised you for a long time to test Atelier Mesure. So, here is finally the article!

Without further ado, I'll pass the word on to Benoît so that he can tell you a little about who the people behind Atelier Mesure are, and under what conditions this test was carried out.
And I'll see you right after to get to the heart of the matter.

Nicolò

The Masson brothers and BonneGueule (by Benoît)

We have known Gilles for almost seven years, whose career we greatly appreciate. He actually had one of the most famous costume boutiques in Paris, in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, for 20 years, until 2005.

As for François-Xavier, he is a veteran of Degand , this world-renowned Brussels costume boutique.

These are two people that we have known for a while, we meet regularly to discuss entrepreneurship topics. , but to guarantee you objectivity on this test, it was Nicolò who took care of it, him and his legendary demands.

Concerning myself, I had two suits made at his house

I am very satisfied with it, and some were able to see the two jackets in two Parlons Clothes .

I also tested the custom-made jeans and there too, everything was perfect. I then tried on a tailored shirt, but I found it a little loose in the back. Nothing too dramatic because it quickly became one of my must-have shirts in summer, due to its very airy weave.

Last important point: given that Gilles and François-Xavier are forces of nature, they provide very good advice on very massive body types. They know their production tool perfectly and know how to play measures to get a perfect fall if you are strong.

If you complain about not being able to fit into ready-to-wear suits and that it gets stuck at the thighs or arms, then go to Atelier Mesure with your eyes closed.

In this regard, among all my friends that I was able to send him, I remember Anthony, a handsome boy weighing 100 kg who needed a suit for his wedding. As usual, I opted for the Loro Piana wool, linen and silk fabric that I love so much. And really, the costume was magnificent, it perfectly highlighted her body shape.

Afterwards, it remains half measures, and not big measures. So if you want to have a very particular shoulder, have fun with the height of the buttons, want a lapel with a very precise dimension, etc., it could be complicated.

I assure you, this is also the case with any competing half-measure offer in this price range. Indeed, if you want total customization, you will have to turn to real bespoke, but the prices are completely skyrocketing.

So, it was important to present to you the links between the Masson brothers and BonneGueule. In the interest of total objectivity, here are the other half-measure offers that caught my eye: Les Francs-Tireurs , Ardentes Clipei and of course, L'Officine Paris !

Choice, choice, choice... (by Nicolò)

Thank you Benoît for this intro!

We're going to talk about the brand's offering.

This is surely the most differentiating point of Atelier Mesure, but also what makes the brand a little difficult to define: the very wide range of products, as Benoît says.

In terms of half-measures, they really have something to suit all budgets. To talk about the suit, you still have 10 different construction grades , in order to adapt to different means and requirements.

It's up to you, therefore, to propose a budget for your suit, and the brand is betting on finding, among its offering, the suit that will be best suited to you.

Fabric ranges

Entry level

• Category “AA”: the very first Atelier Mesure prizes. These are Italian fabrics of honest but not superlative quality, with a basic style, offered on a limited choice, which the brand manages to offer quite inexpensively in particular thanks to purchasing volumes (hence the more restricted choice).

We are talking, for example, about entry-level products from Marzotto, Oliviera or Reda.

You will have smooth and classic 100% wool, in black, navy blue and possibly gray. The goal is obviously to be able to speak to smaller budgets for which this costume will above all be a functional purchase, and where you must go for the most effective for the least expensive possible.

• Category “A” : second prices, always at the entry level. These are fabrics from the same suppliers, but the offer is a little more extensive and refined. We're sticking with simple fabrics, but you might find a slightly prettier wool, or a little stripe, a discreet check, a "caviar" weave... You'll also find "activewear" type fabrics, like wools with a little stretch, which have the particularity of not creasing. Practical for those who work in suits on a daily basis.

Midrange

• Category BB and B: we enter the mid-range with Vitale Barberis Canonico fabrics ("VBC" for short) mainly. You start to have some slightly creative fabrics, the hand is beautiful, the quality begins to be felt... This is where you will find super 120's and super 130's fabrics!

Top of the line

Also note that those of you who have a very substantial budget can even request “made to order” fabrics, directly from suppliers, which are not in the Atelier Mesure collection. And at that moment, price-wise... "sky is the limit" as they say.

If you're curious, ask François-Xavier to tell you about the time they made two vicuna costumes for a very wealthy client... He will be delighted to tell you the story.

Suit Construction Grades

This is probably what makes Atelier Mesure able to serve a wide clientele, from the student preparing for an end-of-school oral exam to the wealthy businessman. Because, even if your budget is limited and you have a crush on a beautiful, more expensive fabric, the possibility of choosing a more modest construction allows you to keep the price contained.

Atelier Mesure has two workshops: one in China and one in Italy. According to the founder, the difference in quality between the two remains very subtle, especially on so-called “machine” manufacturing.

Here are the prices for a two-piece suit.

“Machine made” offer

The classic half-measure, with seams and interlining (when there is any) stitched using a machine called “Strobel”.

To be honest with you I would say that a simple, good quality iron-on will satisfy the requirements of 80% of men... But not perhaps not the majority of you, readers, who are probably more demanding on the fit and the quality, as insiders. Unless you are looking to get the lowest possible price, choose at least a semi-canvassed one. Especially since the Atelier-Mesure heat-sealed range can only be made on premium fabrics.

Moreover, when I asked Gilles Masson why he imposed this restriction, he gave me a frank, sensible answer, which I expected: "Because it wouldn't be worth it."

And it's true that putting very high-end fabrics on heat-sealed material, well... It's a waste. It would be a bit like going to buy the body of a nice car and sticking a cheap car engine on it.

“Handmade” offer

For the most purists! Manual manufacturing

On this part of the offer, the difference between the two workshops will already be more remarkable for the most purists: the Chinese workshop carries out 70% of the operations by hand (sleeves, collar and shoulders), while the Italian workshop does practically the entire jacket by hand. Obviously, when the jacket is canvased, the interlining is hand-stitched in both cases.

The interest of handmade? Beyond the "extra soul" which will delight lovers, of this idea of ​​tradition and craftsmanship carried out by the hand of man, there is also a small technical advantage: the stitching made by hand is endowed with a certain extensibility that the machine stitch, more tight and closed, does not have.

On the scale of a single seam, it wouldn't make any difference, but on an entire jacket, the little millimeters of stretch add up... And you'll still feel a little freer to move than in a jacket canvased and machine sewn. And even more so if you compare it to a heat-sealed jacket.

That's not all...

... Because it's not just costumes. When I tell you that the offer is plethoric, I weigh my words, because there is also a whole offer of half-measures complementary to the suit. Here are some examples:

• Wool coats and peacoats: count on a price similar to that of a suit. Fabrics range from the more standard 100% wool to the very luxurious 100% cashmere.

• Shirts: which range from €120 for the most basic to €320 for an almost entirely handmade version. There are even tailor-made polo shirts (I would never have thought of that)

• Ties: some textured fabrics and others more classic, offered in three standard lengths, in 3 or 7 ply versions, lined or not. There are also knitted versions.

• Trench coats made from water-repellent fabrics.

• Saharans. There is even a reversible model which is on display in store.

• Jeans, including Japanese selvedge canvas from Kuroki, a Japanese weaver that we like.

• Chinos (and even cargo pants) in cotton fabrics, Italian (Loro Piana) or English (Brisbane Moss), stretch or not.

Anyway... Quite a list, and I may have even forgotten some. The idea is not to present everything in detail here, but to let you know that if you particularly need something tailor-made in your wardrobe, even if it is not a costume, you should not hesitate to make a phone call or make an appointment. There is a good chance that Atelier Mesure has a solution to offer you.

A word about Chinese manufacturing

I want to say a few words about it because it is a divisive subject.

On the one hand, all textile professionals will tell you that nowadays, the image we have of Chinese manufacturing is erroneous: of course, it is a solution which aims to lower manufacturing costs.

But certain workshops, including that of Atelier Mesure, are capable of producing impressive quality. The working conditions are good, deadlines are met and optimal (which is a strong argument for the brand which must produce in half measures), and the finishes sometimes have nothing to be ashamed of compared to countries with a ancestral know-how on costume.

You only have to see this video from Suitsupply , filmed in their factories to understand why.

On the other hand, many amateurs will tell you that apart from the differences in quality which persist, they want to support a European economy, and to help know-how to survive in their country of origin. And will also argue that despite the impeccable appearance of the workshops, and undeniable progress over the last two decades, human rights in China, and the working conditions of workers (notably leave) are not always respected there according to standards that seem acceptable to us.

For my part, I understand both points of view, and cannot decide... If only because I have never seen a Chinese workshop with my own eyes.

Regardless, Atelier Mesure launched with the objective of being able to serve a diverse clientele, and the choice of workshops reflects this desire.

Also note that all of the brand's manufacturing workshops are listed here . We can only welcome this approach to transparency, which is particularly admirable in a market as competitive as that of costumes!

What to choose ?

After seeing an offer like this, you may feel more lost than anything else. With all these different prices, what should you choose for a suit? I have taken three theoretical examples to show you what could be adapted to your needs.

Case No. 1 : You are a student looking for a very basic, but well-cut suit. To take oral exams, for example. However, you do not have a body shape that is easy to dress... so much so that you would inevitably have to spend more than a hundred euros in alterations... It therefore becomes logical to turn to half measures if you want a minimum of quality and a good fit. For example, you could go for the suit at €580 or €680. Especially since Atelier Mesure offers a €100 reduction on the first suit of any customer under the age of 25, and with an up-to-date student card.

Case No. 2 : You have more substantial means . You are looking for a good quality suit, which highlights you, but which remains very serious and formal in appearance . With the budget you are investing, you want a costume that fits really well, without being fancy. You will therefore choose a beautiful mid-range fabric, as well as a high construction grade.

Case No. 3 : You are passionate about beautiful materials and sartorial style. For you the priority is an original fabric. In this case, you can choose a very high-end and very creative fabric, while adapting the construction to your budget. The resplendent tiles and worked textures are yours... To your measurements.

Case No. 4: You need the total. .. Exclusive fabrics, hand construction, specific lapel shapes, a particular shoulder... However, you also don't want to pay the price of a large suit from a French tailor , whose prices are hardly under €5000 (And again... on classic fabrics). In this case, be aware that the “handmade in Italy” offer allows a higher degree of customization .

Couple that with the possibility of buying fabrics “to the cut” from the draper , and you will really have THE costume you want. It’s an excellent gateway to what we call “small, artisanal measures”. But given the investment it represents, it is obviously reserved for the most passionate.

Case No. 5: You are getting married or are invited to a wedding. Because yes, probably every other time , when men go to half measures, there is a marriage nearby.

Jordan has written an article that will explain in detail outfits you can wear for the occasion.

For my part, I would only have three recommendations to give you: firstly, go for fabrics in categories B, C and D. Quite simply because you can opt for slightly creative fabrics (checks, stripes, princes of wales, etc...) but not flashy either. It wouldn't be about stealing the spotlight from the bride and groom.

Then, adapt the construction grade to your budget rather than choosing a poorer fabric for better tailoring. In such a context, it will be more decisive for the style.

Finally, consider the possibility of a three-piece: if there's ever an occasion to wear it, it's to a wedding!

Now that you know almost everything about the offer at Atelier Mesure, it's time for the test.

Test: 3-piece winter suit, full canvas artisanal in China, Ferla fabric (€1580)

( Disclaimer: No, we are not crazy and know that this article comes out right at the start of a major heatwave, despite its winter fabric. Initially planned for mid-season, we just wanted not to delay before publishing this article, already too long in the making.)

The sense of service

Once is not customary, I am not going to talk about the product first. Usually, I talk about the service last when I review a brand. But in half measures, it's probably the most important thing. You pay more than ready-to-wear, and therefore you expect a good experience.

However, it is more difficult for me to write on this point. As an editor at BonneGueule, I can only be realistic about the fact that a brand has every interest in taking special care of me, especially if an article is in preparation. This may not be a problem for other media but how can we remain impartial in these conditions?

Gilles Masson took this problem very seriously, since he insisted that I experience a customer experience simulation "like a stranger". So I made my appointment under a pseudonym, going to see François-Xavier, whom I already knew, so that nothing would be prepared differently than usual. At reception, he asked me to play the game as much as possible, and to pretend that I didn't know him, the brand, or the costume in general, and to let myself be guided.

A detailed presentation followed: for around thirty minutes, during your first meeting François-Xavier will introduce you to the different fabric qualities and manufacturing grades.

While explaining the technical aspect that distinguishes them, he will make you touch a super 120's, then super 130's, then super 150's so that you can compare similar fabrics, but of different quality.

He will proceed in the same way with the jackets and their manufacture: he will bring out already made exhibition models for you to try on. You will go from heat-sealed, to semi-canvased, to fully canvassed, to finish on a handmade canvas. Which will allow you to appreciate for yourself how comfort improves with each grade.

Here are the four key points that I remember from my experience in store:

• The “initiation” presentation to the costume is really well put together. You really feel like you have everything you need to make an informed choice.
• The store is empty for you when you come: we only take care of one customer at a time. Believe me, having tested other addresses where you have the impression that you are wasting the advisor's time, it changes the situation.
• I was immediately told a three-week deadline, and set up an appointment straight away. I wasn't in a hurry, but time is a major issue for many men who need to have their suit quickly, and meeting deadlines is taken very seriously at Atelier Mesure.
• The sympathy of François-Xavier. He's someone who knows how to put you at ease while listening, and who will probably have you laughing before the end of your date. It's stupid, but despite my job, I always have a feeling of unease when I enter a costume store or a luxury brand: the "chic" image gives a slightly distressing impersonal side, and the The politeness of the staff is sometimes so excessive that it feels false. Here, I felt the right balance between "natural" and respect for the customer.

My experience on the cut

After the customer experience, what matters most in half measures is certainly the cut. And I would like to take this opportunity to answer the following question: what is realistic to hope for in half-measures?

And now that this clarification has been made, I must still say that in my opinion, the accuracy of the cut has been mastered by the brand.

So that you know what I base my comparison on, I have already tried the services of three other brands by myself (Lanieri, Faubourg Saint-Sulpice, Atelier NA) and in terms of fit and quality of grip. measurement, Atelier Mesure is above the rest (largely, in certain cases...).

Furthermore, through reader feedback and colleagues, and having scrutinized the photos of other "tests" on the net, I think I have a fairly fair idea of ​​what we can expect in terms of fit in the so-called "affordable" half-measure ( start of offer at less than €700 per suit).

At Atelier Mesure I had the best fit "from the start" possible for the moment in demi-measure. Particularly on the cut of the pants. I don't have an easy-to-dress lower body shape (quite large thighs, among other things), and that's often where the problem lies when trying on.

Here are the notes I took during the first and second fitting (because you will see later that there were some unforeseen events...)

Jacket

First fitting

• Good: the chest was harmonious and the armhole was high as it should be.
• Good: the back was very clean, without collar folds.
• Good: the overall fall was well balanced on both sides. This is important because my right shoulder is 1 cm lower than the other, which is compensated by slightly shifting the buttoning on the front of the jacket.
• Ok: the back of the shoulder needed to be fixed a little because it floated slightly, especially to the right.
• Bad: on the other hand the shoulders were already very curved, perhaps a little too much. The seam was high on the collarbone, which works well on a natural shoulder, and a little less so on a cigarette shoulder. It's not something that can be modified by retouching.

Second fitting

• Good: the back of the shoulder has been perfectly taken up.
• Good: the sleeves were 1 cm too long and the correction was perfect. The cut is done "at an angle" to prevent the buttonholes from being too close to the edge.

Trousers

First fitting

• Good: a very clear leg line despite my physical characteristics.
• Good: the waist measurement was just right... compared to my first measurements at least (I'll talk to you after alterations...).
• Good: a correctly shaped buttocks.
• Ok: a thigh and leg opening a little wider than I would have liked, but already quite fitted, especially for a first fitting.
• Ok: pants slightly too long compared to my request.

Second fitting

• Good: the right lengths
• Good: an adjustment exactly as requested (but which will still require others later...)

Regarding alterations, they are carried out by a retoucher with tailor training . It may happen that when you go to the first retoucher you come across, you find work that is a little rough. That is not the case here.

In short, if there is only one criticism that I could make about the cut at Atelier Mesure, it is that it specializes in so-called “natural” shoulders , and is less good on slightly more structured shoulders.

As you can see I chose a "cigarette" shoulder, that is to say with a fold which creates an elevation at the end of the shoulder. It is a style that is intended to be a little more marked and ostentatious, less Neapolitan than the natural shoulder, and more Milanese or even Parisian.

According to Atelier Mesure, this result depends on the fact that they only have one type of padding (very light), which cannot create that "strong" shoulder line that I was looking for.

The way it was adjusted, its seam went up quite high, and its volume was very close to the shoulder muscle. It's very suitable when you want to create a natural shoulder while keeping a "young" look and avoiding the "bag" look of certain American-style suits.

Gold on this particularly thick and “tuck-in” fabric . On the other hand, on a more structured shoulder, it reduces the build a little too much, and makes it feel more cramped.

François-Xavier explained to me that their offer only allowed a base

That being said, I have also gained a bit of weight this past year. Besides, because of certain changes, I was able to test their vision of fit extensively...

Touch-ups: How my multiple physical transformations affected this test

Disclaimer:

If you are curious to know in detail how weight loss and bodybuilding can complicate your life in a half-measure experiment, read this part.

Otherwise, go directly to the "Ferla Fabric" section, and just remember that the test conditions were biased by my morphology changes.

The quality of the retouching is essential for a half-measures brand. And on this point, I must be sincere and make my “mea culpa”, because I made Atelier Mesure see all the colors.

Some of you know that this test has been planned for a very long time. To tell the truth, I made my first appointment in January 2018, more than a year ago already.

The reason for this delay? No luck for Atelier Mesure, at the time I launched this test, I began important changes in my life which transformed my physique on several occasions...

• Early January 2018: first measurement taken. I weighed around 72kg at the time. Without being corpulent, I had "a few kilos to lose" by my own standards. The costume is arriving at the end of the month but I don't have time to try it on. This is when I started to lose weight...
• End of March 2018: I'm doing the first fitting... But I've already lost 5kg!
  “No problem,” François-Xavier told me. The alterations are still minimal: they will shorten the length of my sleeve and leg a little. , adjust the leg opening a little more to suit my tastes, and adjust the waistband of the pants as well as the shaping of the jacket so that the suit "slims down" with me.
• Early July 2018: New fitting. The touch-ups probably would have been perfect if I hadn't started weight training and slimmed down again. Result: the back and shoulders are a little tight (but still acceptable) and the pants are way too big. We try the retouching.

• August 2018: I try the costume again after alterations and then... Ouch. The pants, due to being too much altered, open completely to the pockets. The pliers don't look like much anymore. The shoulders and shoulders are really too tight and the vest is not even wearable. Gilles shows great patience when I explain to him that photos as they stand would not do them justice. He therefore relaunches a second suit.
• September 2018: the new suit suits me well. I'm starting to lay the foundations for this test. But in the meantime, my physique continues to evolve... And I have other more priority “projects” at BonneGueule which make me put this article on hold.
• April 2019: the article finally takes shape, but a final touch-up is still necessary. I no longer have a huge change in body shape, only a few kilos gained (half muscle, half pizza...). A little extra waistline, quite a bit of back pain and a little more shoulders. You will simply have to reopen the middle of the back and the side of the chest to find acceptable comfort.

I'm telling you all this for two reasons. The first is that I did not want the conditions of the test to give you a biased opinion on the quality of Atelier Mesure's work . The result is good, but not as good as it would have been if all this had not happened. Especially since I asked them for cuts that were already a little more fitted than their standards. Therefore, every small physical change was noticed quickly.

The second is so that you can learn from my mistake: do not launch a tailor-made project at the same time as a physical transformation project... Alterations cannot adapt the costume to the infinity. I already knew that, but hey, sometimes you have to experience a problem to take it seriously.

The good side of things is that I at least have irrefutable proof that Atelier Mesure knows how to do good alterations . And that they are capable of dressing a stockier physique as well as an athletic physique, since I went through both stages during the test period.

On the other hand, Gilles Masson, a little worried about the idea of ​​having to deal with other "transformations" like mine, asked me to warn you: no problem retouching the costume several times if it is It will be necessary, but don't make them go through the obstacle course like I did... They won't restart a costume. 😉

A Ferla Alpaca-Cotton-Polyamide fabric

Let's focus for a moment on this choice of material, which is not the most common. You may have noticed that its texture is unique. And for the regulars you probably already know Ferla, a weaver who we presented in detail on the occasion of the release of our Prince of Wales winter costume .

This fabric is very similar: the thickness is the same, the raw materials used are also the same. Surprisingly, Ferla did not communicate the exact composition to Atelier Mesure, only revealing the three fibers that were used, without saying in exactly what proportion.

But I have every reason to believe that this fabric is none other than a "blue striped" version of the gray checkered fabric that we used.

The composition should therefore be:

• 38% baby alpaca
• 33% cotton
• 29% polyamide

The polyamide may seem regrettable here, but it is something recurrent on the winter fabrics from Ferla, although they are very high-end. It is in fact its presence which makes it possible to obtain the visual effect of such a marked "curly", and such a mottled look.

Is it beautiful?

This is clearly its main asset : the light capture is excellent, the color is deliciously nuanced, the texture is on a level beyond what you are accustomed to with more normal fabrics, the stripe is worked with a very particular roughness ... In fact, it's both an advantage, and perhaps even a disadvantage: it's a little too "beautiful", in an ostentatious way, for many frames, especially in this very shimmering blue. Where other gray Ferla fabrics can perhaps pass in a "business" setting in winter, this one has a form of exuberance which complicates things.

And at the same time, it's exactly what I wanted for my personal use.

Is it soft, pleasant?

Yes. Baby Alpaca is felt, it is a fabric with a pleasant touch (even if not as soft as 100% alpaca obviously) and an interesting hand.

Is it robust?

Yes. Apart from aesthetics, one of the advantages of having polyamide in this mixture is that it makes it much more stable and solid. Last winter, I wandered around the English countryside for a weekend wearing it , he even encountered a few brambles without flinching too much.

Does it keep warm?

Yes, rather. Worn alone with a winter shirt, without an overcoat, it has an ideal thermal range of 7 to 18°C ​​I would say. Perfect alone, in mid-season, or accompanied by a coat in winter.

Does it breathe well?

Less good than 100% wool for example, but it remains very acceptable . Since it's intended for cooler weather, you shouldn't feel any difference unless you're wearing it in a setting where you're doing prolonged physical exertion. I wore it this winter at Pitti Uomo, and it is true that when I went from the heated indoors to the cold outdoors, while walking at full speed all day long, with a coat on top, it It happened to be a little suffocating.

For more relaxed urban use, no problem however.

Now that we've talked about the fabric, let's move on to the construction...

What is full-canvass worth?

This suit was not only my first three-piece, but also my first fully canvassed suit.

So, I had the theory on comfort and drape for a few years. But I had the opportunity to see what it looked like in practice, and here is my feedback:

Does it follow the wearer's body better?

Yes, although on this point, I think it's easier to notice on thin fabrics than on thick fabrics.

However, my intuition tells me that it is precisely the interlining that allows the jacket to take shape on my bust, and to look good most of the time, even though it should no longer quite fit me. A heat-sealed cuff would, at this stage, be completely broken on the torso.

Does the jacket fit better?

Yes, completely, on the bottom of the jacket in particular: it has a more natural fit, even on such a thick material. It's hard to describe, but it's both "heavier" and more fluid. Moreover, note that Atelier Mesure uses a fairly thin covering, which gives a more “Italian” result, lighter, whereas the English style chooses thicker horsehair canvases to create a firmer structure.

Is it more flexible?

Yes also . As mentioned above, this jacket, now a bit small and whose cut is no longer suited to me, maintains rather acceptable comfort. The hand stitching probably also has something to do with it, to a lesser extent.

Is she breathing better?

Hard to say. In theory, this is supposed to be the case, but in practice I chose a thick, winter material here, which makes a small compromise in breathability due to the presence of polyamide. On this jacket, I therefore do not notice any improved breathability.

In short, for this first experience of full-canvassing, I would say that it is definitely worth it. But you will already need to have a little experience in previous costumes to fully appreciate it. So don't see it as something essential.

What about the finishes?

To conclude this test, let's talk about the details.

The Atelier Mesure website will explain better and more exhaustively all the finishes present on their different ranges.

No need to show you every seam that was done by hand, every piping and button. Instead, I wanted to focus on the details that I liked the most , and that I noticed the most on my costume.

Also note that due to its extremely pronounced texture, certain details are more difficult to see on the fabric I chose. I will therefore use photos from Atelier Mesure on more classic materials, for the sake of readability.

The handmade (or Milanese) buttonhole

Ahhhh the Milanese... It reminds me of the good old days at BonneGueule, when we were still discovering sartorial art, and where this famous Milanese was the icing on the cake: a jacket buttonhole made entirely by hand, very time-consuming, out of pure pleasure of aesthetics and tradition.

Where a machine buttonhole is flat, the handmade buttonhole has a relief and density that you will quickly learn to recognize.

Little extra detail that goes with this Milanese buttonhole: a "flower loop", a stitch made by hand on the hidden part of the lapel, to hold the stem of any flower that you would like to slip there. Useful in the event of a wedding!

The semi-lined “camouflage” construction with “posterior protection”

Well, this title is deliberately a little catchy.

Anyone who knows me knows that I love the camo pattern. And it turns out that among the beautiful selection of linings (classic or creative) from Atelier Mesure, this blue version immediately caught my attention. It matched perfectly well with the blue of the fabric, I was happy to integrate this nose piece into the sartorial art, hidden in my jacket.

For construction, you already know the advantages of semi-lined: the compromise between the lightness of unlined , and the protection provided by the lined construction.

But the extra detail at Atelier Mesure is this strip of fabric that holds the slits in your jacket. So, you will never again have to endure that slightly awkward moment when the slits of your beautiful suit open and go wherever they want. Rather practical, but not knowing its real name, I therefore named it " posterior protection ". Make of that what you want!

Besides, I was surprised to see that this finish is present on Tom Ford suits.

The glasses pocket

Pockets are important. As with any self-respecting jacket, the classics are present: exterior pockets, chest pocket, and right and left interior pocket. But at Atelier Mesure, there is an additional small pocket, the size of which is specifically adapted to slip in a pair of sunglasses. And the placement of it means that the pair is not noticeable, even when the jacket is closed, which I really liked.

A very correct pattern matching.

“Pattern matching” is simply the act, on a garment made from a patterned fabric, of aligning them in order to create an effect of continuity.

The more different areas are aligned (sleeves with the shoulders, pockets with the body of the jacket, etc.) the more it creates a "clean", uninterrupted effect.

Suffice to say that this requires a certain ingenuity in cutting the fabric in the workshop. And it is often more expensive in terms of material, since it requires selecting specific parts of the fabric intended for certain places, rather than carrying out cutting which has the only constraint of being concerned with optimizing the use of the fabric as much as possible. roll.

And, pattern matching agitates discerning customers a little, sometimes to such an extent that they don't realize what is "normal" to demand.

Here are the places where the pattern matching of these stripes is carried out:

• Flap pockets aligned with the jacket.
• Lapels aligned with the collar.
• Back of the vest aligned with the front.

In even higher end (in Large Measure in particular), you would have alignments such as that of the shoulder with the middle, or the front of the jacket with the back where they meet at the shoulder. .. Or, on the pockets of the vest, in the same way as was done for the jacket. But for a half-measure at this price, I find it more than sufficient. Note that on certain patterns, depending on the measurement given, it is sometimes just not possible to align one area with another. This is life, there is no death!

Obviously, there are a whole bunch of other details on this costume: horn buttons mounted on the tail (for strength), numerous hand seams for this grade of manufacturing (lining, shoulders, topstitching on the sides). lapels, buttonholes) ...

But these will surprise you less.

So it’s time for the verdict!

The strong points of Atelier Mesure, in brief:

• A beautiful selection of classic and creative fabrics, and lots of taste in the latter. Very beautiful Ferla and Loro Piana, which you won't find anywhere else.
• An ability to adapt to many budgets and requirements.
• A brand that has “commercial sense” (the €100 reduction for students!), as well as that of welcome and service.
• A real education on fabrics and constructions. You will emerge more informed and confident in your choices.
• A very fair cut compared to the half-measure offer on the market.
• Quality alterations.
• A very good level of details and finishes. The tailoring is on point!

The weak points in brief:

• The offer can lose the customer, even if it is compensated by good explanations.
• Chinese manufacturing gives a less “premium” image of the product.
• Italian clothing is struggling to attract attention due to the price gap
• Best for looser, less structured shoulders. Lovers of very square, pagoda-shaped shoulder lines, or very marked cigarettes, there will probably be addresses more suited to you.

Whether you are looking for your first suit for an end-of-school exam, an office outfit for every day, a suit for a wedding, or simply to taste fabrics worthy of the most beautiful filters instagram, Atelier Mesure probably has what you need.

To make an appointment, it’s right here !