Test of the month: Claudio Mariani tailor-made pants

It's been a few weeks now that I've been giving you a glimpse of the great find that is this brand, via my nuggets , the lives, my latest Sapristi , or even my Instagram...

Well it's high time to present to you the test of three of his pants: the Positano, the Ravello, and the Amalfi.

But before that, let me explain to you in a few words the concept of the brand...

Brand presentation

I discovered Claudio Mariani by chance, while scrolling through Instagram. Despite a rather rudimentary site and photos that weren't always attractive, the designs immediately caught my eye, and after digging a little deeper, I knew I had a very nice confidential address.

It is a family business located in the province of Salerno, near Naples in Italy, and run by two brothers: Claudio, the entrepreneur, and Nicola, a model maker and designer trained in Naples, whom he joined in 2009.

The directors Claudio and Nicola Mariani.

1. The offer

The offer is quite easy to summarize:

• Six "fits" which are actually designs with their details (pockets, closure) and whose cut volumes are already thought out. We will test three of these fits
• Fabrics that cover winter, summer and mid-season, available without distinction from one season to another. No collection.
• Prices range from 150 euros (simple models, cheaper fabrics, especially summer fabrics) to 230 euros for the most complex models on the most expensive fabrics.
• "Fit customization" is free. UPDATE: 05/29/20: The "custom" option now incurs an additional cost of €60.

And as you can imagine, it is this last point that particularly attracts attention. Italian tailor-made, at prices as close to ready-to-wear made in Europe. On paper, it's a great deal! But as you probably know, there are many types of "tailor-made".

2. Halfway between half measure and full measure

Claudio Mariani's tailor-made is quite special, we could even call it "hybrid":

This is not half-measure, because the brand creates a unique pattern for each customer AND each pair of trousers. As in bespoke ! It is the co-director and model maker of the brand, Nicola, who is your direct contact on Instagram.

From such a table, arm yourself with a tape measure, a pair of pants that fit you well and a little rigor. You can also order by buying a standard size ... But it won't be cheaper. That would be a shame!

From a few very precise measurements, which you will have taken on a pair of trousers that fit you very well, accompanied by a few details , Nicola will design and cut your pattern remotely. In "Bespoke" strictly speaking, all your measurements would have to be taken in real life. Here everything therefore depends on his talent and his eye.

The other point on which the brand differs from the bespoke is that customization of the design is not normally possible: each model has a predefined design, with sometimes small variations of the details. depending on the fabric.

In short, the brand focuses on the strongest argument of the measure: a pattern made "from scratch" for a truly perfect fit.

3. A workshop brand

As for the very attractive prices, they are largely explained by the unique situation of the brand: it is basically a workshop, subcontractor of Italian luxury brands, selling trousers for several hundred if not a good thousand euros. In reality, the brand is the result, as is often the case in Italy, of a long history of family business since the origins of the project go back to Claudio and Nicola's mother, Rosaria. An expert in the manufacture of trousers, she ran a shop with her brothers from the 50s to the 70s.

A view of the workshop and some of its 25 employees.

The eponymous brand of the business leader is therefore, in a way, a diversification project.

It would be very difficult to make custom-made products in Italy at such prices without this very special situation, especially with such a level of attention to detail, as you will see.

My expectations

Let's continue with the expectations I had when doing this test, starting by talking about my body type. Knowing that an easy body type, or on the contrary a difficult one, totally conditions a half-measure test.

The first could have a very satisfactory result while the brand had few or no tests to pass to adapt its cut, while a very difficult morphology could give an image of "failure" to a brand which nevertheless does a good job.

My morphology

For the lower body, I have a rather difficult morphology to dress: a pelvis and thighs of 48, buttocks of 46, and a waist of 44. All accompanied by very muscular calves, and slightly arched legs because of my flat feet. To make matters worse, my pelvis tends to move forward and therefore hollows the back of my back... In short, a somewhat unusual posture that is the bane of brands that try to make pants that fit me well.

Let's be honest: except for jeans I can probably forget about ever finding a perfect fit in ready-to-wear.

These kind of photos (which were sent to me during production) already boded well. Here, my freshly cut Ravello pants, next to their original pattern.

As for the half measure, not only is it difficult to find the right leg line for me, but I also always have a large crease that runs down the back of my leg, from my thigh to my calf.

So far, I have never made a half-measure that can completely correct this little problem, even if it can alleviate it. Given these constraints, I do not expect a "perfect" fit. I do expect the following things:

• A clean leg line , with little or no break along its length
• The right level of fit , between having good comfort in the thigh and emphasizing the silhouette.
• Good support at the waist, rounded but not compressed buttocks
• The right lengths

And of course, all the level of attention and care for detail that you would expect from a pair of pants made in Italy.

The Positano, a double-pleated jogger

1. My opinion on the style

In the clothing world, attempting to make a "hybrid" piece is both the surest way to achieve something original and appealing, but also the method most likely to fail completely.

This one is a success: the casual side is not hidden, but it remains a visibly elegant pair of pants. Its overall color, a dark gray with subtle brown accents, makes it very easy to match.

Wear it with any casual piece, as long as it doesn't look "sloppy", or on the contrary with formal pieces to "loosen up" an outfit a little.

BonneGueule sheepskin, From Future turtleneck, NDC Made by Hand boots. Small monochrome in brown and beige tones.

2. Two words about the fabric

It is a Vitale Barberis Canonico flannel, made in a super 130's combed wool, in a fairly mid-season weight, even if it is sold as winter.

In addition to a really excellent drape, it is also made in a very beautiful pattern: a micro houndstooth, whose grid is reminiscent of a "gunclub ". The gunclub, is a grid pattern of various colors, often including earth tones. It is normally seen on tweed coats and jackets, albeit with a larger pattern size, and was traditionally associated with hunting as its name suggests.

So, I'm not always a big fan of houndstooth in its more first degree versions. , on the other hand I find this version, brought up to date, full of subtlety.

Up close we see white, gray, brown... Each shade is itself mottled.

In terms of feel, it is as pleasant as expected for this type of wool and it also breathes very well.

3. The verdict on the cup

In terms of proportions, these are probably the pants that fit me best.

Nothing to complain about this fit, really. Come on, yes, I might have liked 1 centimeter more in length of pants, not even... Knowing that there is still fabric inside if I really wanted to lengthen it.

While the famous "thigh crease" is still present, I notice that it is less accentuated than on most of my pants, the leg line at the front is simply perfect.

The elasticated back also has the advantage of keeping the waist higher, which almost 100% solves my problem of the pants falling down the back.

I couldn't have expected better from a first try from remote measurements.

4. Details that please

Watch out for your eyes...

The elegant little cord, made in the fabric of the pants for a more chic look.

The double darts and the slanted pocket, whose curve echoes them, like a sort of third dart.

The small coin pocket. Invisible if you don't pay attention to it, and practical for storing metro tickets, coins and other small things...

The label that pleases! It is present on each pair of pants.

Perhaps the detail that impressed me the most: for this model, they even took the time to select a fabric for the braided seams, whose pattern echoes the main pattern. Sophisticated, to say the least.

The Ravello, a dressy chino

1. My opinion on the style

I love it! The asymmetrical side brings something quite strong, but combined with this fabric, the pants remain quite discreet. I find that this green complements it wonderfully, the very open pleats bring both comfort and a more assertive style.

These stretch cotton pants, big fluffy boots (Tricker's), a boiled wool overshirt and a sweater (BonneGueule)... You wouldn't think it but this look is absolutely comfortable. Perfect when you're half-awake like in the photo.

2. Two words about the fabric

Stretch cotton is always a form of compromise compared to more rigid 100% cotton gabardines: on the one hand it is very flexible and therefore more comfortable, on the other hand it is this flexibility which will give it a less structured fall and therefore necessarily a slightly less clean cut.

Despite everything, as promised by the brand, this one has a very good balance: it falls sufficiently heavily, and holds the central fold quite well, while offering total comfort.

This is a feature that is rarely mentioned, but you should know that the fabrics that crease the least are also those that have the most difficulty keeping a crease marked with an iron. Logical, when you think about it. With the exception of certain wools that retain creases marked with an iron but crease little over time.

A stretch cotton will ripple a little more than a 100% cotton or a so-called "fresh" wool.

The feel is very pleasant, and has that "peach skin" effect that is often sought after on casual chinos.

3. The verdict on the cup

Successful without being perfect the first time either!
The crease in the back is toned down compared to what I have on these types of pants, but still present.

Nicola, the pattern maker, was worried that these trousers, whose fabric stretches a lot, would end up a bit big at the waist. Despite his precautions, this turned out to be the case: being a perfectionist, I would say that they are still half a size too loose after stretching.

It's a cotton, with stretch to boot, so it's normal that the leg doesn't fall as cleanly as on a classic wool or cotton. It also calls for a not-too-formal design to do it justice.

Unsurprisingly, the back leg crease is more pronounced on this model, the stretch cotton follows the body more and falls less by itself.

4. Details that please

Let’s quickly go over the most beautiful details of these pants:

Offset belt and double belt loop. More complex closures can appear sophisticated, or on the contrary evoke military registers by the functional image they convey, as here.

In the absence of a belt to hold, the small central pin has mainly an aesthetic role. Great success on the side of the flap pocket, perfectly placed in relation to the clips, and the well-chosen button.

The asymmetrical theme of this design is continued on the back pockets.

And elaborate lining fabrics: the brand tells me these are actually real Italian shirting fabrics rather than lining fabrics. They didn't cut corners.

The Amalfi, a high-waisted dress pant

1. My opinion on the style

Clearly a pair of pants that are meant for a dressy look, or at least to make a more casual look more dressy. In this photo, I'm already at the limits of its range by opting for a crew neck sweater in the pants and a bandana rather than a shirt, and a vest or cardigan.

InCorio boots, A Piece of chic bandana, BonneGueule “kimono” blazer , and prototype of the “Sato-Seni” sweater .

2. Two words about the fabric

This Drago flannel has a major advantage: its flexibility. We are used to it, from a beautiful wool flannel, that it takes the light well, that it is soft and warm... No surprises on that.

On the other hand, Drago managed to make this fabric 100% combed wool whose flexibility they have optimized as best as possible, without adding stretch.

The result is a fabric with surprising comfort, without being elastic.

And it retains all the properties (fall, resistance to wrinkling, etc.) of a good flannel.

A very, very beautiful blue and a flannel with excellent light absorption.

3. The verdict on the cup

The cut is meant to be fitted in the thigh but fairly straight from the knee, for a formal, classic but fitted look that highlights the shoe. While the others can be ironed for a flat front This one is really made to be worn with the fold following the clip, and no other way!

For me this cut is rather a success, there too. The leg line at the front is good and my usual back crease is barely visible.

Nicola had warned me that this fabric could stretch a little. He therefore adjusted the fit a little more accordingly. It is slightly tight at the waist even after stretching and maybe a little bit at the buttocks. So that is my first reservation. Completely wearable as is, I would say it would fit me perfectly with a kilo less.

Second point of shadow, as for the Positano, I would perhaps have liked it to be a little centimeter longer to be perfect.

The only visually apparent defect is the turn of the dart: the fairly tight cut in the thigh could not take into account my very prominent quadriceps, which suddenly open the dart a little too much, which turns slightly on itself. But I have no doubt that the defect can be mostly corrected by replacing the fold with an iron, by myself.

Aside from the darts opening a little too much, the leg line at the front is exemplary.

The glutes are maybe a bit tight for my current weight. The back of the thigh is sufficiently clean.

4. Details that please

We end this test with the very sartorial details of this Amalfi:

Offset double-breasted belt. This is a dressy detail, not the kind of pants that are ideal for tucking in a t-shirt, for example. Looks great over a shirt, though.

Double darts towards the outside. They also reinforce the dressed side when associated with other details of this register.

Clamping tabs, in this shape that evokes a bow tie. Here too, very dressy. Note the metal part, which I also find well chosen. I prefer this patinated aspect to a brand new chrome.

A "gentleman's" trouser interior, as they say! A double row of buttons, a bit long to close when leaving the toilet, certainly, but which allows it to hold even better on the waist (even more important on high waists).

The killer detail: an additional closure tab made of the lining fabric, which goes in the opposite direction to the main closure to distribute the tension more evenly. There, it won't move!

Final verdict

Claudio Mariani, that’s a big yes for me!

The fabrics are beautiful. They exude quality. Without being "exceptional materials" (with rare fibers, ultra-worked patterns and textures...), these are beautiful mid-range and high-end fabrics, expertly selected, with a dose of originality for some of them.

The details are quite impressive. And remind us why Italian manufacturing is far from having said its last word: the closure systems, linings and other tightening tabs carefully thought out and made.

The silhouettes should please many people: the three "fits" that I chose tend towards a flattering fit, but never veer too slim or skinny. Especially since there are also more generous models, and that the brand can completely adapt to your request if you have a preference for a looser fit.

The adaptation of the cuts is skillfully carried out: I consider that from four measurements taken on pants that fit me well, and just two or three written instructions concerning my posture, the first result is very good. And largely up to what I have seen from half-measure brands when taking "physical" measurements (if not above).

The price/quality ratio is good: considering that it is custom-made, you are rather in the average or even lower average of what a pair of pants in these fabric ranges would cost. And yet, you have Italian manufacturing, a style proposition and a level of detail that you would not normally find at this price.

The only real downside in my eyes, compared to a classic half-measure brand, is that you can't ask for alterations, and they will be at your expense. So be careful with your measurements and don't hesitate to ask the brand any questions you may have.

Also know that Claudio Mariani's promise, as with any "true" custom brand, is a fit that will improve with each order. I can't wait to see what the next ones will be like.