Editorial nuggets #08 – David

Here we go again for a second tour of the team's nuggets.

On the program today: workwear , a touch of tailoring, and sneakers full of history.

SuitSupply Linen Hunting Jacket

Why this brand?

I own quite a few things from the brand, I like what they do, and I managed not to mention them in my first nuggets. But this time, we're going to talk about SuitSupply .

Like many, I discovered the brand thanks to the accessible and very varied costumes offered. Loving the sartorial style, I remember spending hours (literally) dissecting the suit offering: lapel width, button placement, shoulder padding, the site has beautiful photos and often good look inspiration.

And also, the brand's clothes fit my body perfectly: when I buy a jacket or shirt from them, I know that it will fit me perfectly.

So, if I had to name a brand that represents my vision of clothing at the formal wardrobe level, it would be SuitSupply. In addition to mastering the classic wardrobe very well, they are also very good at everything related to soft tailoring, .

This is a very good choice for anyone looking for tailor-made, well-made pieces at a reasonable price . Quite simply.

Why this room?

Perfect cross between workwear and tailoring ,

This hunting jacket (Norfolk jacket type, as Nicolò slips into my ear) has large patch pockets at the front, a notch lapel, and has a removable belt, very interesting stylistically, and which we see very little in humans.

Its advantage? Its versatility. It can be worn dressed up, like a blazer, or more casually with a t-shirt and olive chinos, or workwear, with a chambray shirt, chunky raw jeans and boots.

The look proposed by the brand for this piece - without the belt here - is interesting: reminders of color on rather dressy pieces with the light brown vest and the neutral camel Jodhpur, gray chinos and white shirt with officer collar for the more casual chic side . Skillful.

German Army Trainers

Why this brand?

Those who have been following us for a very long time may remember: BonneGueule talked about it... in 2011 (that goes back!)

They are made of white leather, a gray suede leather insert and a rubber-colored sole.

Produced by Adidas in the 80s and 90s for the training of German army soldiers, the GATs as they are affectionately called have spanned the decades.

We also feel that at Adidas, the inspiration for the GAT comes partly from the Samba, launched in 1949, or the Gazelle, released in 1968.

A little family resemblance...

For the record, Adidas even released a limited edition of GAT in its main collection in 2018.

We recognize this model from the 2018 Adidas collection by the brand inscription on the sole, at the heel, a detail that the original GAT does not have. Having seen them, the quality, of the leather in particular, is also less good than on the models of yesteryear. But the style remains.

Although these sneakers are no longer produced today, you can find new ones or in very good condition in thrift stores or on the Internet , as I mention a little further down.

The model is so iconic that many brands have been inspired by it, and are still inspired by it today:

A version customized with paint by Maison Martin Margiela , Svensson, National Standard ... even our first pair of high-top sneakers, in collaboration with National Standard (them again), draws on the DNA and heritage of the German Army Trainers original.

Why this room?

A little less refined than all-white sneakers, but not fancy or divisive enough to be difficult to wear, GATs go with everything . It's not for nothing that the model inspires so much.

And because a picture is worth a thousand words, the brand De Bonne Facture put them everywhere in the shooting of their fall/winter 2018 collection:

Inspirations and GAT: there you have it! No problem I tell you.

My first pair was purchased in 2011, and I'm currently on my second. Acquired in 2014, they have had some experience and still hold up well. Although the sole is glued and not sewn, the leather is of completely satisfactory quality, as evidenced by their good condition after all these years of service. (military) .

My pair worn on the right with raw jeans. A pair in very good condition on the left. You can see that they are aging quite well, and yet I have not spared them.

That's all very good, but where can I find it?

You will find them in Paris in thrift stores, at Episode , Brut Clothing for example.

german army trainers thrift store vintage episode paris france

A photo taken by myself (we see it because it's blurry) in the Episode thrift store, in Paris. They are currently out of stock, this photo was taken in 2018.

On the web, you will find them mainly on:

  • ebay.fr by simply searching for "German Army Trainers" in the search bar
  • ebay.de when searching for "Bundeswehr Sportschuhe"

That's all very good, but how much does it cost?

Between €25 (at Episode in particular) up to around fifty euros, especially when ordering on the Internet and adding shipping costs.

Prices vary a little but it's not expensive at all! It's a good deal, and it's also one of the reasons that pushed me to put them in my nuggets.

That's all very well, but which size should you choose?

You will find them in sizes like 270, 275, 280. What does that mean?

German Army Trainers use the Mondopoint sizing system. Basically, you measure the length of your foot, you put it in millimeters, and that gives you the size to choose.

In fact, I advise you to follow this equivalence table:

Take your usual sneaker size (Adidas, Nike and company) and see what it looks like in Mondopoint.

My example: I take 43.5 sneakers from Nike or Adidas, my GATs are 280. I also go to 275 but it's tight in width because my foot is a little wide.

Coach jacket Black Flag

Why this brand?

Offering a wardrobe combining casual, chic, workwear and even a little streetwear (with caps in particular), we really like Drapeau Noir in the team because the brand makes beautiful things, well made, with beautiful materials, and at the right quality. price.

And yet, I haven't always been attracted to their products, especially because there was a time when Drapeau Noir mainly offered -nice- shirts and -nice- pants, but the cut didn't suit me. Today , the range has diversified, and I finally find the right fit, particularly in the workwear-inspired jackets.

This is how the jacket looks on me, with just a shirt underneath. Layering is therefore entirely possible.

Why this room?

Drawing its roots from 1990s sportswear, this traditionally nylon jacket sat on the shoulders of American coaches, particularly football coaches. Practical thanks to these snap buttons and sometimes water-repellent, it also has a small drawstring at the bottom, which you can tighten as you wish to protect yourself from the wind.

And of course, the coach jacket has also found its place in the streetwear wardrobe: it is worn here by the members of the group NWA. We all say hello to Dr. Dre 🙂

Reworked this season by Drapeau Noir, this model has been refined (no logo or inscriptions), and a workwear tab has been added with this clever olive green and snap buttons from Prym with an aged effect . Water repellency has also been maintained thanks to the use of an Italian technical fabric 59% cotton and 41% nylon.

From a style point of view, this coach jacket is placed between sportswear, casual and workwear, so that it will go just as well with jeans, boots and a textured henley as with a casual shirt, chinos and sneakers.

Also note that this coach jacket also exists in navy , less workwear and more casual/streetwear for that matter.

And in terms of other brands that offer them, I saw them at Nike , Adidas , New Balance , Quartersnacks (more streetwear), Dickies (a little more workwear) and Samsøe & Samsøe or Balibaris for something close to Black Flag

In short, a very good ally for the half-season that is setting in.

And finally, here is my look of the day, with two of the gems from this selection.

Schnayderman's shirt and Uniqlo jeans.

David Hao, maximum soft tailoring

I think clothing can be a beautiful means of personal development. I like unstructured jackets, straight pants and loafers.

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