Here we go again for a second round of the team's gems.
On the agenda today: workwear , a touch of tailoring, and sneakers full of history.
SuitSupply Linen Hunting Jacket
Why this brand?
I own quite a few things from the brand, I like what they do, and I had managed not to mention them in my first nuggets. But this time, we're going to talk about SuitSupply .
Like many, I discovered the brand thanks to the affordable and very varied suits offered. Loving the sartorial style, I remember spending hours (literally) dissecting the suit offering: width of the lapels, button placement, shoulder padding, the site has beautiful photos and often good inspirations in terms of look.
And also, the brand's clothes fit my body shape perfectly: when I buy a jacket or a shirt from them, I know it will fit me perfectly.
So, if I had to designate a brand that represents my vision of clothing in terms of the formal wardrobe, it would be SuitSupply. In addition to having a very good command of the classic wardrobe, they are also very good at everything related to soft tailoring, .
This is a very good choice for anyone looking for pieces that are rather tailored, well made, and reasonably priced . Quite simply.
Why this piece?
Perfect cross between workwear and tailoring ,
This hunting jacket (Norfolk jacket type, as Nicolò whispers in my ear) has large patch pockets on the front, a notched lapel, and has a removable belt, very interesting stylistically, and which is rarely seen on men.
Its advantage? Its versatility. It can be worn both in a dressy way, like a blazer, or in a more casual way with a T-shirt and olive chinos, or workwear, with a chambray shirt, big raw jeans and boots.
The look proposed by the brand for this piece - without the belt here - is interesting: color reminders on rather dressy pieces with the light brown vest and the camel Jodhpurs, gray chinos and neutral white officer collar shirt for the more casual chic side. Clever.
German Army Trainers
Why this brand?
Those who have been following us for a long time may remember: BonneGueule talked about it... in 2011 (that was a while ago!)
They are made of white leather, a gray suede leather insert and a rubber-colored sole.
Produced by Adidas in the 80s and 90s for training soldiers in the German army, the GATs as they are affectionately called have stood the test of time.
We can also feel that at Adidas, the inspiration for the GAT comes partly from the Samba, launched in 1949, or the Gazelle, released in 1968.
A little family resemblance...
As an aside, Adidas even released a limited edition of GAT in its main collection in 2018.
This model from the 2018 Adidas collection can be recognized by the brand name on the sole, at the heel, a detail that the original GAT does not have. Having seen them, the quality, especially of the leather, is also less good than on the models of yesteryear. But the style remains.
Although these sneakers are no longer produced today, you can find new ones or ones in very good condition in thrift stores or on the Internet , as I mention a little further down.
The model is so iconic that many brands have been inspired by it, and still are inspired by it today:
A custom paint job by Maison Martin Margiela , Svensson, National Standard ... even our first pair of high-top sneakers, in collaboration with National Standard (them again), draws on the DNA and heritage of the original German Army Trainers.
Why this piece?
A little less pared-down than all-white sneakers, but not fancy or divisive enough to be difficult to wear, GATs go with everything . There's a reason the model inspires so much.
And because a picture is worth a thousand words, the brand De Bonne Facture put them everywhere in the shooting of their fall/winter 2018 collection:
Inspirations and GAT: here they are! No problem I tell you.
My first pair was purchased in 2011, and I am currently on my second. Acquired in 2014, they have been around for a while and are still holding up well. Although the sole is glued and not sewn, the leather is of quite satisfactory quality, as evidenced by their good condition after all these years of service. (military) .
My pair worn on the right with raw jeans. A pair in very good condition on the left. You can see that they are aging rather well, and yet I have not spared them.
You will find them in Paris in thrift stores, at Episode , Brut Clothing for example.
A photo taken by myself (we can see it because it's blurry) in the Episode thrift store in Paris. They currently have no stock, this photo was taken in 2018.
On the web, you will find them mainly on:
- ebay.fr by simply searching for "German Army Trainers" in the search bar
- ebay.de when searching for "Bundeswehr Sportschuhe"
That's all well and good, but how much does it cost?
Between €25 (at Episode in particular) up to around fifty euros, especially when ordering online and adding shipping costs.
The prices vary a bit but it's not expensive at all! It's a good deal, and it's also one of the reasons that pushed me to put them in my nuggets.
That's all well and good, but what size should you choose?
You will find them in sizes like 270, 275, 280. What does that mean?
The German Army Trainers use the Mondopoint sizing system. Basically, you measure the length of your foot, put it in millimeters, and that gives you the size to choose.
In fact, I advise you to follow this equivalence table:
Take your usual size in sneakers (Adidas, Nike and others) and see what it gives in Mondopoint.
My example: I take 43.5 in sneakers from Nike or Adidas, my GATs are 280. I also go to 275 but it's tight in width because my feet are a bit wide.
Black Flag Coach Jacket
Why this brand?
Offering a wardrobe combining casual, chic, workwear and even a bit of streetwear (with caps in particular), we really like Drapeau Noir in the team because the brand makes beautiful things, well made, with beautiful materials, and at the right price.
And yet, I have not always been attracted to their products, especially because there was a time when Drapeau Noir mainly offered -beautiful- shirts and -beautiful- pants, but whose cut did not suit me. Today , the range has diversified, and I finally found the right shoe for me, particularly in workwear-inspired jackets.
This is how the jacket looks on me, with just a shirt underneath. Layering is totally possible then.
Why this piece?
Drawing its roots from 1990s sportswear, this traditionally nylon jacket was worn by American coaches, particularly football coaches. Practical thanks to its snap buttons and sometimes water-repellent, it also has a small drawstring at the bottom, which can be tightened as desired to protect against the wind.
And of course, the coach jacket has also found its place in the streetwear wardrobe: it is worn here by the members of the group NWA. We all say hello to Dr. Dre 🙂
Reworked this season by Drapeau Noir, this model has been refined (no logo or inscriptions), and a workwear tab has been added with this clever olive green and press studs from Prym with an aged effect. Water repellency has also been maintained thanks to the use of an Italian technical fabric 59% cotton and 41% nylon.
From a style point of view, this coach jacket is somewhere between sportswear, casual and workwear, so it will go just as well with jeans, boots and a textured henley as with a casual shirt, chinos and sneakers.
Also note that this coach jacket also exists in navy , less workwear and more casual/streetwear this time.
And as for other brands that offer them, I've seen them at Nike , Adidas , New Balance , Quartersnacks (more streetwear), Dickies (a bit more workwear) and Samsøe & Samsøe or Balibaris for something close to Black Flag
In short, a very good ally for the mid-season that is coming.
And finally, here is my look of the day, with two of the gems from this selection.
Schnayderman's shirt and Uniqlo jeans.
