Let's make things clear from the outset: you can very well have a wonderful end-of-year celebration in an everyday outfit. Cut the turkey in a t-shirt, make a toast in AirMax, welcome the new year in jogging pants, dance to “I Will Survive” in UGG.
I do not judge.
Not too much.
Okay, a little bit! But no one is perfect.
In this article, G. Bruce Boyer witnesses it to me! You won't find sweater-jeans-sneaker outfits but glitter, spectacular or just a hint of extraordinary.
Is this too much to ask?
No. You deserve it.
Next to fireworks, it's you we're looking at.
1. Pull out all the stops: the tuxedo
James Dean pretending to dream, in a sculptural pose.
This year, you have decided to dress up in your Sunday best. On the program: tuxedo and evening dress.
Small preliminary warning: don't be the only one in a tuxedo at this party, it would be disturbing for everyone. As disturbing as realizing that your new dentist has rotten teeth.
Sorry for the image.
Each guest must therefore agree to participate in this little game of etiquette.
You will agree I think, that a guy in a tuxedo at a village fete is dodgy, while another in a Black Tie event is exquisite.
Another thing: tuxedo and bling don't go well together. We must choose
The white jacket is also an option but it is perilous and the result depends precisely on the wearer's ability to make it look natural.
Like here, with Andreas Weinas:
You should know that the primary purpose of this evening outfit was to compose a blank canvas conducive to the more singular and lively expression of putting women on our arms .
The man should not show coquetry or any particular taste for display of clothing, although this was expected of the woman. She was the one we should look at.
So, don't overdo it. Not too much shine, satin, studs, garish, not too much and less than much. Keep it simple, do like James Dean.
Ursula Andress and James Dean (by Darlene Hammond in 1955). Life in a tuxedo is immediately more beautiful.
And then also, take a look in Google Images: reliable guys like Peter O'Toole, Paul Newman, Cary Grant of course, or even Glenn O'Brien or Robert Rabensteiner. They know how to do it.
If you choose this option (or undergo it for that matter), you should not miss it.
Our advice:
- A complete black or midnight blue tuxedo with black lapels
- White shirt with French cuffs and simple, discreet cufflinks
- A black or midnight blue bow tie, depending on the color of your tuxedo
- Black slippers or brogues and matching knee-highs
Another important detail: if you have a small budget, prefer to buy a vintage tuxedo in a beautiful material, rather than a new one from Zara. The quality is noticed straight away.
The Wicket tuxedo is sober and elegant.
You can also find them at SuitSupply , Charles Tyrwhitt or Boggi Milano .
But that's it, unless you have an unlimited budget or treat yourself a lot, and given that you rarely have the opportunity to wear this kind of piece in your life, resorting to vintage is perhaps more interesting . You'll find something to quench your thirst for Black Tie on Savvy Row (a few dozen euros for the cheapest) and, with a little luck and patience, on Vulpilist.
Personally, I have a preference for the natural elegance of a shawl collar, matching particularly well with the roundness of a bow tie.
If you have a vintage tuxedo, the rest should, in my opinion, be new, so as not to look too dated.
For the shirt, we recommend something in this register:
Boggi Milano . Textured, as it should be. Hidden gorge. Musketeer cuffs.
Howard's still defends itself very well. The brand's cufflinks are quite good too. It's always interesting to add a bit of personality by looking at Wicket or Paul Smith.
Let's move on to shoes.
Let me tell you something: avoid polished shoes and prefer to make icing on your own . It's more chic. Patent shoes will only be used for this occasion and will never come out of the closet . Whereas shoes iced by you quickly return to their normal appearance and you can therefore wear them outside of this context.
You can also opt for black or navy blue velvet slippers depending on your outfit.
Strangely, the tuxedo can also be worn with lounge shoes, like these Baudoin & Lange slippers (too expensive for what they are, but I show them because they are beautiful).
One-cut brogues are perfectly indicated, if not better, because the model is simple and elegant, therefore perfect for such an occasion. You will find more than fifty brands of shoes that we recommend in this article .
2. Take out the velvet jacket
Tom Ford can be counted on to do a lot with a little.
Except in its ribbed form, short velvet is becoming rare.
Its appearance is too precious for an everyday wardrobe. It should be reserved for big days or evenings. And, precisely, the transition to the new year is not every day.
We can therefore opt for this material without overdoing it: on the jacket, it is sufficient. A guy who came in an entire suit of smooth, slightly shiny velvet would look like a big dusty cushion, a plump curtain, a rug, a comfortable but awkward old armchair.
You don't want that.
Velvet is measured carefully . This is why we recommend the combination of velvet jacket and cold wool pants.
Velvet jacket from Suitsupply .
A single button for formal jackets is preferable because it lightens the silhouette. As well as pockets without flaps.
Important for your integrity: I advise against making any reminders
The velvet jacket is the strong piece. She doesn't need anyone. It is synonymous with countdowns, flutes of champagne, cognac and cigars, and chic caterpillars!
With it, prefer a bow tie in silk or cotton but not in velvet. It will be black, like your pants and shoes, or dark blue if it goes well with the jacket.
Apart from the jacket, the outfit follows the same rules as those that apply to wearing a tuxedo.
You can find some at Suitsupply as seen above, Charles Tyrwhitt .
3. For once you can wear a bow tie...
The twist on the rather dark shirt, in denim or chambray and therefore casual, is welcome here.
This year you're feeling in the mood to wear a bow tie. We welcome this willingness to take risks.
As I often say in Panache, clothes are made for fun... so have fun!
Well, that being said, wearing a bow tie can be a bit of a hassle. Because we must realize one thing: its essence is formal. As much as the tie. It is a piece of silk (often) that we have taken care to wrap around itself in such a way that it makes a pretty knot to decorate the neck.
You see ?
It’s still a bit of vanity! So, in my opinion, it would be inappropriate to think that you can wear it with any shirt, jeans and sneakers.
So, first technique: use your good old navy blue suit, a sky blue shirt and the bow tie of your choice.
Well, your choice... provided that it is to be tied or, if it is already tied, that it is unknottable. Otherwise, it's a gadget knot and all its charm is gone...
For example, the one in the photograph above was tied for the occasion. Wouldn't it occur to you to wear a tie with an elastic band? Well, the bow tie is the same fight.
The association of the photograph above is really happy, I think: why not follow it?
A dark blue shirt but still lighter than the suit! She must contrast with him. It has to be very dark, then.
© Berg & Berg
A shirt that has been catching my eye for too long. It's decided: I'm adding it to my sale hunting list.
© Drake's
The bow tie can be pre-tied, but it must be able to come undone like this. Otherwise, it will look too perfect and it will be like you put a tie held by an elastic band around your neck.
You can also find them at Cinabre , Le Colonel Moutarde , L'Atelier à Nouer, Hast , Howard's , Le Loir en Papillon or Turnbull & Asser for example.
Wait, wait, wait, it's not enough to choose your color and a tie to avoid making a mistake. You still have to pay attention to the proportions.
It's essential.
It must fit your face, otherwise you risk looking disguised. Like a clown with an oversized bow tie. Nothing worse than destroying your outfit and making you look like a redneck.
The rule is simple: its length must be approximately equal to the distance which separates the outer end of your two eyes.
Basically, if you put your bow tie tied over your eyes, like glasses, it shouldn't protrude too much from your eyes in length. But it shouldn't cover too little either.
Oh yes, I forgot: I strongly advise against wooden bow ties! Indeed, for uncapping beers, propping up a wobbly table or lighting a fire, they are practical but, for elegance, we will iron.
When it comes to shoes, keep it simple: take the ones you usually wear with your blue suit. Well-kept brown brogues will do the trick perfectly.
For the pocket, a navy blue will be welcome.
4. The turtleneck: elegant and versatile
I don't know about you but I spend my winter in a turtleneck.
It is magical in that it dresses you immediately, it dispenses with a scarf and it instantly distinguishes.
So, if I wear it every day in winter, there's nothing exceptional about wearing one for the New Year, you might say. Yes but, worn with a blazer and dress pants, it has something chic and refined and ultimately not so common, don't you agree?
Let's avoid the large fisherman's knit, although in other circumstances it is beneficial, and concentrate on fine merino.
Our Livigno turtleneck sweater, 80% wool, 20% cashmere.
The turtleneck goes well under all sleeved pieces.
So, for this outfit, I can see an elegant blue double-breasted jacket or a more sporty straight jacket, with a houndstooth or prince of wales pattern or just with texture. If you know how to choose your jacket, in your size and respecting your body shape, then everything goes with a turtleneck.
As you feel.
One like this does the job very well:
Our Toso jacket, which mixes 63% wool and 37% cotton.
You can add a white silk pocket to give the whole thing a little sparkle!
To complete the whole thing, I think it is possible to put a
On the right, our Alberto jeans , as raw as they should be.
On the left, our Nomi jeans with a brushed Japanese canvas where the brushed reverse provides softness and warmth.
Come on, make an effort, we'll avoid sneakers for once a year!
And now the derbies:
Our pair of Jack brogues , which add a touch of refinement.
5. For a refined New Year
Sensitive souls refrain.
I would simply say that: in the same way that a beautiful poem remains beautiful over time even if its language is outdated, a beautiful outfit will always be beautiful. At any time and in front of anyone.
This is the definition of “classic”. In the correct meaning of the term. Yes, because there is a good meaning of this term.
Daniel Day-Lewis in the film Phantom Thread by Paul Thomas Anderson. Masterful film. Oscar for best costumes. You surprise me...
Observe carefully DDL.
It all comes down to the following facts:
- The tied scarf is a little loose, it falls nonchalantly
- The polo buttons are almost all open to allow the scarf knot not to fall too close to the neck
- The polo collar is wild, untamed and stands out rebelliously from the furrow formed by the jacket.
To continue, the whole thing is made a little wobbly but full of charm by this contrast between the shirt and the jacket which is reversed compared to what we are used to seeing.
If you want to imitate Daniel Day-Lewis, there is no need to go so far as to reverse the usual shirt/jacket contrast. It will still work fine. However, if we want to go that far, here is what I propose:
Our Narita shirt in brushed cotton
To finish the outfit, we still need to find shoes and the scarf.
And I think we can think of them together. That is to say that the colors of the scarf and the shoes correspond to each other. So I see shades of brown that go just as well with gray as with blue. The whole point is also that the scarf fits well with the blue of the denim, like a logical whole.
For the shape of the shoes, since we are playing the refinement card, you need a fine shoe that is not too heavy in terms of aesthetics: no sole that is too imposing or too much leather decoration.
Regarding the scarf, I think this one would be pretty good:
You can find alternatives at A Piece of Chic , New & Lingwood, William and Son, Anderson & Sheppard, Les Belles Heures, Fursac and in thrift stores too!
6. The intimate New Year's fantasy
What's better than ending and starting the year with your favorite person on Earth: yourself.
Celebrating the New Year as a hermit can be good, as long as you take advantage of it to create an exceptional moment, alone in the world and happy to be.
In short, if I had to spend the New Year alone, I would organize a very detailed schedule just to avoid going to bed at 9 p.m. with tears in my eyes.
And, besides a nice bottle of champagne, a cigar, hilarious films like Superbad and a gargantuan meal of oysters, Breton lobster, turkey and everything in between, this is how I would dress. Probably.
© Derek Rose
Cotton flannel pajamas, just because it's comfortable and stylish.
On that note, I would probably throw that sort of thing away.
A silk dressing gown from Bonsoir London. If someone rings the doorbell asking me to mute the hairy rock 'n roll coming out of my speakers, at least I won't be disheveled when it's time to send them to pasture.
For the feet, I have something so ridiculous that it becomes brilliant:
© Matthew Cookson
Matthew Cookson velvet slippers, too expensive for what they are (€375) but essential to feel like a pasha and get into the New Year spirit.
And then, when we dance alone at 2 a.m., no one is likely to step on our toes.
And the highlight of the show:
© Julius Tart
Julius Tart rose-tinted glasses. Completely useless at night indoors and just as useless during the day, except for driving but not even that because it is the yellow lenses and not the pink ones that improve night vision.
That's really just to show off when you catch your own gaze in the mirror.
And then, it’s to see life in rosy terms of course and to scare your cat.
Ah yes, a cat. It's quite important, just for the look of disdain he gives you when he sees you swaying on the macarena. Each his own. He's doing it in a litter in full view of everyone, you're playing decadent music.
Who will judge whom?
The final word...
Like I said, dressing for the context is imperative. You have to understand the environment you are about to set foot in and play according to its rules.
While this is a constraint, it can also force you to be creative!
For this occasion and in general, the important thing is to have fun choosing your clothes. But maybe, in this case, you can go a little harder by donning an outfit that's a little out of your comfort zone.
Moments of stylistic license are pretty rare, so seize them.
