Let's get one thing straight: You can still have a wonderful holiday season in your everyday outfit. Carve the turkey in a T-shirt, toast in AirMax, ring in the New Year in sweatpants, dance to "I Will Survive" in UGGs.
I don't judge.
Not too much.
Okay, a little! But nobody's perfect.
In this article, G. Bruce Boyer is my witness! You will not find sweater-jeans-sneakers outfits but sequins, spectacular or just a hint of the extraordinary.
Is that too much to ask?
No. You deserve it.
Next to a fireworks display, it's you who are being contemplated.
1. Go all out: the tuxedo
James Dean pretending to dream, in a statuesque pose.
This year, you've decided to dress up. On the agenda: tuxedo and evening gown.
A little preliminary warning: don't be the only one in a tuxedo at this party, it would be disruptive for everyone. As disruptive as realizing that your new dentist has rotten teeth.
Sorry for the image.
So each of the guests must agree to participate in this little game of etiquette.
You'll agree, I think, that a guy in a tuxedo at a village fete is shady, while another at a Black Tie event is exquisite.
Another thing: tuxedo and bling don't go well together. You should choose black or midnight blue for discretion .
The white jacket is also an option but it is risky and the result depends on the wearer's ability to make it look natural.
Like here, with Andreas Weinas:
It should be noted that the primary purpose of this evening dress was to create a blank canvas conducive to a more unique and lively expression of the way women put themselves on our arms .
The man was not supposed to show any coquetry or particular taste for the demonstration of clothing, while this was expected of the woman. It was she who was to be looked at.
So, don't overdo it. Not too much shine, satin, studs, flashy, not too much of too much and less of much. Keep it simple, do it like James Dean.
Ursula Andress and James Dean (by Darlene Hammond in 1955). Life in a tuxedo is immediately more beautiful.
And then also, go take a look at Google Images: safe guys like Peter O'Toole, Paul Newman, Cary Grant of course, or even Glenn O'Brien or Robert Rabensteiner. They know what they're doing.
If you choose this option (or even undergo it), you can't afford to mess it up.
Our advice:
- A complete black or midnight blue tuxedo with black lapels
- White shirt with musketeer cuffs and simple, discreet cufflinks
- A black or midnight blue bow tie, depending on the color of your tuxedo
- Black slippers or oxfords and matching knee-high socks
Another important detail: if you have a small budget, prefer to buy a vintage tuxedo in a beautiful material, rather than a new one at Zara. The quality is immediately noticeable.
The Wicket tuxedo is understated and elegant.
They can also be found at SuitSupply , Charles Tyrwhitt or Boggi Milano .
But here's the thing, unless you have an unlimited budget or want to treat yourself, and given that we rarely have the opportunity to wear this kind of piece in our lives, going vintage might be more interesting. You'll find something to quench your thirst for Black Tie on Savvy Row (a few dozen euros for the cheapest) and, with a little luck and patience, on Vulpilist.
Personally, I have a preference for the natural elegance of a shawl collar, which goes particularly well with the roundness of a bow tie.
If you have a vintage tuxedo, the rest should, in my opinion, be new, so as not to look too dated.
For the shirt, we recommend something along these lines:
Boggi Milano . Textured, just right. Hidden throat. Musketeer cuffs.
Howard's is still doing very well. The brand's cufflinks are also quite good. It's always interesting to add a touch of personality by checking out Wicket or Paul Smith.
Let's move on to shoes.
Let me tell you something: avoid patent leather shoes and prefer to glaze them yourself . It's more chic. Patent leather shoes will only be used for this occasion and will never come out of the closet . Whereas shoes glazed by yourself will quickly return to their normal appearance and you can wear them outside of this context.
You can also opt for black or navy blue velvet slippers depending on your outfit.
Oddly enough, the tuxedo can also be worn with lounge shoes, like these Baudoin & Lange slippers (too expensive for what they are, but I'm showing them because they're beautiful).
One-cut oxfords are a perfect fit, if not better, because the style is simple and elegant, making them perfect for such an occasion. You will find over fifty shoe brands that we recommend in this article .
2. Pull out the velvet jacket
Tom Ford can be counted on to do a lot with a little.
Except in its ribbed form, short pile velvet is rare.
Its appearance is too precious for an everyday wardrobe. It is to be reserved for big days or evenings. And, precisely, the passage to the new year is not every day.
So you can opt for this material without overdoing it: on the jacket, it's enough. A guy who would come in a whole suit of smooth and slightly shiny velvet would look like a big dusty cushion, a plump curtain, a carpet, an old comfortable but awkward armchair.
You don't want that.
Velvet is measured with care . This is why we recommend the combination of a velvet jacket and cold wool trousers.
Velvet jacket from Suitsupply .
A single button for ceremonial jackets is preferable because it lightens the silhouette. As well as pockets without flaps.
Important for your integrity: I advise against making any reminder with the color of the jacket!
The velvet jacket is the strong piece. It doesn't need anyone. It is synonymous with countdown, champagne flutes, cognac and cigars, chic chenille!
With her, choose a silk or cotton bow tie, but not velvet. It will be black, like your pants and shoes, or midnight blue if it goes well with the jacket.
Apart from the jacket, the outfit follows the same rules as those that apply to wearing a tuxedo.
They can be found at Suitsupply as seen above, Charles Tyrwhitt .
3. For once you can wear a bow tie...
The twist of the rather dark shirt, in denim or chambray, therefore casual, is welcome here.
This year you feel like wearing a bow tie. We applaud this willingness to take a risk.
As I often say in Panache, clothes are made for fun... so have fun!
Well, that being said, wearing a bow tie can be a bit of a hassle. Because you have to realize one thing: its essence is formal. As much as the tie. It is a piece of silk (often) that has been carefully wrapped around itself in such a way that it makes a pretty knot to decorate the neck.
You see?
It's still a bit of a flirtation! So, in my opinion, it would be inappropriate to think that you can wear it with a random shirt, jeans and sneakers.
So, first technique: use your good old navy blue suit, a sky blue shirt and the bow tie of your choice.
Finally, your choice... provided that it is to be tied or, if it is already tied, that it is untidy. Otherwise, it is a gimmick knot and all its charm flies away...
For example, the one in the photograph above was tied for the occasion. Wouldn't you consider wearing a tie with an elastic band? Well, the bow tie is the same fight.
The association with the photograph above is really happy, I think: why not follow it?
A dark blue shirt, but still lighter than the suit! It has to contrast with it. It has to be really dark, then.
© Berg & Berg
A shirt that has been catching my eye for too long. It's decided: I'm adding it to my sale hunting list.
© Drake's
The bow tie can be pre-tied, but it should be able to come undone like this one. Otherwise, it will look too perfect and it will be like you put a tie held by an elastic band around your neck.
They can also be found at Cinabre , Le Colonel Moutarde , L'Atelier à Nouer, Hast , Howard's , Le Loir en Papillon or Turnbull & Asser for example.
Wait, wait, wait, it's not enough to choose your color and a detachable to not make a mistake. You also have to pay attention to the proportions.
This is essential.
It has to fit your face, otherwise you risk looking like a clown with a bow tie that's too big. Nothing worse to ruin your outfit and make you look like a redneck.
The rule is simple: its length should be approximately equal to the distance between the outer edge of your two eyes.
Basically, if you put your bow tie tied over your eyes, like glasses, it shouldn't extend too far beyond your eyes in length. But it shouldn't cover too little of them either.
Oh yes, I forgot: I strongly advise you against wooden bow ties! Indeed, for opening beers, propping up a rickety table or lighting a fire, they are practical, but for elegance, we'll pass.
As for shoes, keep it simple: wear the ones you usually wear with your blue suit. Well-maintained brown Oxfords will do the trick.
For the cover, a navy blue one would be welcome.
4. The turtleneck: elegant and versatile
I don't know about you, but I spend my winter in a turtleneck.
It is magical in that it dresses you immediately, it does away with the need for a scarf and it instantly sets you apart.
So, if I wear it every day of the winter, nothing exceptional to wear one for the new year you will tell me. Yes but, worn with a blazer and dress pants, it has something chic and refined and ultimately not so common, don't you agree?
Let's avoid the big fisherman's knit, although in other circumstances it is beneficial, and focus on fine merino.
Our Livigno turtleneck sweater, 80% wool, 20% cashmere.
The turtleneck looks good under any piece with sleeves.
So, for this outfit, I can see an elegant blue double-breasted jacket or a more sporty straight jacket, with a houndstooth or Prince of Wales pattern or just with texture. If you know how to choose your jacket, in your size and respecting your body shape, then everything goes with a turtleneck.
As you feel.
One like this works just fine:
Our Toso jacket, which mixes 63% wool and 37% cotton.
You can add a white silk pouch to give a little sparkle to the whole thing!
To complete the whole thing, I think it is possible to wear a good pair of clean raw jeans and well-polished brown or black derbies .
On the right, our Alberto jeans , just as raw as they should be.
On the left, our Nomi jeans with brushed Japanese canvas where the brushed reverse brings softness and warmth.
Come on, make an effort, we'll avoid sneakers for once a year!
And now the derbies:
Our pair of Jack brogues , which add a touch of refinement.
5. For a refined New Year
Sensitive souls please refrain.
I would simply say that: in the same way that a beautiful poem remains beautiful over time even if its language is outdated, a beautiful outfit will always be beautiful. At any time and in front of anyone.
This is the definition of the term "classic". In a good sense. Yes, because there is a good sense of this term.
Daniel Day-Lewis in Paul Thomas Anderson's Phantom Thread. Masterful film. Oscar for best costumes. No wonder...
Take a good look at DDL.
It all comes down to the following facts:
- The knotted scarf is a little loose, it falls nonchalantly
- The buttons of the polo shirt are almost all open to allow the knot of the scarf not to fall too close to the neck.
- The polo collar is wild, untamed and emerges, rebellious, from the furrow formed by the jacket.
To continue, the whole thing is made a little wobbly but full of charm by this contrast between the shirt and the jacket which is reversed compared to what we are used to seeing.
If you want to imitate Daniel Day-Lewis, there is no need to go so far as to reverse the usual shirt/jacket contrast. It will still work well. However, if you want to go that far, here is what I propose:
Our Narita shirt in brushed cotton
Our Bergamo jacket in wool flannel
To finish the outfit, we still need to find shoes and the scarf.
And I think we can think of them together. That is to say, the colors of the scarf and the shoes complement each other. So I can see shades of brown that go just as well with gray as with blue. The whole challenge is also that the scarf integrates well with the blue of the denim, as a logical whole.
For the shape of the shoes, since we are playing the refinement card, we need a thin shoe that is not too loaded in terms of aesthetics: no sole that is too imposing or too much leather decoration.
Regarding the scarf, I think this one would be good:
Alternatives can be found at A Piece of Chic, New & Lingwood, William and Son, Anderson & Sheppard, Les Belles Heures, Fursac and in thrift stores too!
6. The Intimate New Year's Fantasy
What better way to end and start the year than with your favorite person on Earth: yourself.
Celebrating the New Year as a hermit can be a good thing, provided you take advantage of it to create an exceptional moment, alone in the world and happy to be so.
In short, if I had to spend New Year's alone, I would organize a very elaborate program just to avoid going to bed at 9 p.m. with tears in my eyes.
And, besides a nice bottle of champagne, a cigar, hilarious movies like Superbad and a gargantuan meal of oysters, Breton lobster, turkey and everything that goes with it, this is how I would dress. Probably.
© Derek Rose
Cotton flannel pajamas, just because they're comfortable and stylish.
On that note, I would probably throw that kind of thing away.
A silk dressing gown Good evening London. If someone rings the doorbell and asks me to mute the hairy rock'n roll coming out of my speakers, at least I won't be disheveled when it's time to tell them to go away.
For feet, I have something so ridiculous that it becomes awesome:
© Matthew Cookson
Matthew Cookson velvet slippers, too expensive for what they are (€375) but essential to feel like a pasha and get into the New Year spirit.
And then, when you're dancing alone at 2 a.m., no one is going to step on your toes.
And the highlight of the show:
© Julius Tart
Julius Tart pink tinted glasses. Completely useless at night indoors and equally useless during the day, except for driving but not even that because it is the yellow lenses and not the pink ones that improve night vision.
This is really just for showing off when you meet your own gaze in the mirror.
And then, it's to see life through rose-tinted glasses of course and scare your cat.
Oh yeah, a cat. It's pretty important, just for the look of disdain he gives you when he sees you swaying to the macarena. To each his own. He's into pooping in a litter box in full view of everyone, you're into decadent music.
Who will judge whom?
The final word...
As I said, dressing according to the context is imperative. You have to understand the environment you are about to enter and play by its rules.
If this is a constraint, it can also force you to be creative!
For this occasion and in general, the important thing is to please yourself in the choice of your clothes. But maybe, in this case, you can go a little harder by wearing an outfit that is a little out of your comfort zone.
Moments of stylistic license are rare enough, so seize them.