It's true: we haven't always spoken well of the down jacket at BonneGueule.
Brilliant, with its seams that make you look like a Michelin man, it's not a garment that has always had great popularity.
Along with the Hawaiian shirt , cropped pants or Birkenstocks, it is part of this family of clothing with which we associate (associated) a rather negative image.
However, things are changing . In addition to being everywhere on the streets for many years, it has established itself in the highest spheres of style, particularly driven by the surge in streetwear in recent years.
Consequence: major designers and other high-end brands are coming to put their stamp on this garment and we are seeing more and more beautiful down jackets , more creative, well worked.
Tom Ford down jacket
So the time has come for us to talk about the down jacket. Let's start by defining it, and then we'll see how to wear it. Preferably well.
Short lesson in the anatomy of the down jacket
What is a down jacket?
The down jacket is a quilted garment whose mission is to keep you warm. This padding can be down or synthetic.
To summarize, down is more insulating but will lose its properties if it gets wet. Concerning synthetic insulation, it is generally less insulating but holds up better against bad weather. In addition, today there are high quality technical synthetic insulators such as Primaloft, Polartec or Climashield.
To know which one to choose, Michel explains everything here:
Visually, it is characterized by visible seams (often horizontal but which can also be vertical or oblique) which allow good distribution of the padding in the different areas of the garment. These seams also give the characteristic look of the down jacket.
CP Company down jacket with horizontal and vertical seams
The different types of down jackets
The down jacket exists in several forms. Here are four ways to differentiate them:
1. Short or long down jacket
The down jacket normally stops at hip level. This is the standard length.
The long down jacket, with more coverage, stops at knee level. This garment, more visually imposing, is less common and seems more difficult to wear.
2. Down jacket with or without sleeves
When we talk about a down jacket, we tend to think of a garment with sleeves. This is the most common form.
But for some time now, the sleeveless down jacket has found its place in our locker rooms . It is particularly used as an intermediate layer, between a sweater and a coat for example.
It is also a garment that we sometimes see on people wearing the suit in winter, between the shirt and the jacket.
Down jacket with Aspesi sleeves, Lavendham sleeveless down jacket
The sleeveless down jacket is a garment that we have been working on for several seasons at BonneGueule:
3. Thin or thick down jacket
The down jacket is a garment that can have very variable thicknesses.
It can be lightly padded, quite thin, for a more discreet look, and with a more moderate degree of warmth. A thin down jacket can in certain cases be worn as an intermediate layer , under a coat for example.
On the contrary, it can be thicker and bulkier, for a visually more massive look and increased warmth.
Woolrich thin down jacket and thick down jacket
4. Down jacket in synthetic or natural fabric
Finally, let's talk about the question of fabric.
The majority of down jackets are made of synthetic fabric, for a rather casual, sportswear or even techwear style. The shine also varies: a matte fabric is a little more sober visually, more versatile from a style point of view.
However, for some time now, woolen down jackets have been available for a more elegant style. It is in particular through this that the down jacket can enter a more casual chic universe.
The North Face synthetic fabric down jacket, Woolrich wool down jacket
Down jacket and parka, what are the differences?
You can probably visualize the differences between these two garments. But if we were to formalize it, here is what it would look like:
- The down jacket has visible seams on the outside, the parka does not.
- The down jacket often has a rather fine and slightly shiny fabric. The parka features a thicker, matte-looking fabric
- The down jacket does not always have a hood. The parka has one, almost always
- The down jacket is shorter and hits the hips while the parka is longer and hits the thighs
6 looks to wear a down jacket brilliantly
It's time to get down to business. Here is a selection of commented silhouettes in very different styles, showing that the down jacket can fit into a wide range of stylistic universes.
Look 1: casual
Here is an outfit that I find very nice.
I appreciate the harmonious and soft color palette . You have an ecru/beige/sand base which is available on the cap, turtleneck, chinos and running shoes. These pieces differ well because the color and materials are a little different each time.
The sleeveless down jacket contrasts a little more compared to the rest with its green color, but not too much either because its intensity is medium: it is a fairly soft green, not very strong, which fits well with the neutral colors of the rest of the look.
Something to note here is the choice of a thick turtleneck underneath the down jacket which is also quite thick. This brings coherence to the whole.
Look 2: chic
An interesting outfit found at Fursac that shows how to integrate a down jacket into a more chic ensemble.
So we have a fairly elegant base with a thin, dark turtleneck, cream pants (presumably wool) and black derbies.
The idea is not to put a very street-style down jacket on top, the style of which would be too far from the rest. Here, it is better to choose a more elegant and sober down jacket.
This is due to its matte fabric, its moderate thickness and its fairly neutral color, beige/camel, which could find its place on a blazer or a raincoat. The color of this down jacket complements that of the pants.
Look 3: streetwear
Aime Leon Dore x Woolrich
A streetwear look that is both simple and yet stands out.
It's simple because the gray hoodie, navy chinos and black Converse base is completely classic.
It's worked out thanks to the addition of this multi-colored parka from a collaboration.
The creative brand Aime Leon Dore puts its visual touch, its flair on a product well mastered by a historic brand, Woolrich .
I find the result successful : the colors are well chosen, warm without being too bright. I really like the raspberry shade, more subtle than a primary red . Likewise, the position of the inserts is well thought out and the small touches of black bring sobriety to the whole.
The down jacket is thick, visually imposing, and it has its place here because the look is decidedly streetwear.
Look 4: workwear
Wear a down jacket in a workwear look? I say yes. But not a down jacket that is too thin or shiny. Better a slightly more imposing model, with pep like the Christy from Rocky Mountain Featherbed (same model as in look 1 by the way) with an olive green fabric, a shoulder yoke that is a bit reminiscent of a western shirt and a shearling collar.
Of course, in workwear, with olive, what do we wear? Blue with a faded denim jacket and brown with good old Red Wings , of course! And a little touch of sand with these pants which, you might say, are jeans, a bit in the spirit of our Rome model .
We have our traditional workwear cocktail (slightly thick raw materials, green/blue/brown combo), our down jacket (sleeveless): we're good!
Look 5: techwear
Allterrain Downhill Lookbook
I found this little techwear look from the beautiful Japanese brand Descente Allterrain which should please Benoît.
To characterize this set, I would say sober . The outfit is entirely black, the pants have no pockets or contrasting details, the upper of the sneakers has no seams and even the down jacket is very clean with only 2 slanted zipped pockets at chest level. Minimalist techwear.
It's a very marked outfit, which won't suit everyone but which I find has its charm and above all a coherence taken to the extreme.
Look 6: creative
Aime Leon Dore x Woolrich Lookbook
Finally, a more advanced look with another down jacket from the collab between Aime Leon Dore and Woolrich.
The outfit this time is much more fashionable with this quilting everywhere : the down jacket, the jacket underneath, the pants... even the bucket hat is entitled to it.
It's clearly not an outfit that everyone on the street would wear, but I still find it inspiring.
Note the idea of providing a contrast in quilting on different pieces : the horizontal seams of the down jacket vs the vertical (and arcuate) seams of the pants.
One thing that's easy to take from this look is the color combination : beige/sand, green, brown with a hint of ecru: it works every time.
I think brown boat shoes in smooth leather with a commando sole look great here. I have a pair that I really like: it's a change from what we usually see, it has character with the cleated sole and it's easy to wear, especially if you choose them in a shade of brown. A good alternative to sneakers and classic city shoes, in short.
And on the women’s side? - Nawal's point of view
Here, the stylistic dimension of the garment prevails over its technical advantages . Yes, the down jacket is a piece that keeps you warm and protects you from bad weather. But it is also considered a real fashion statement : for women, we find short, mid-length or (very) long, more or less voluminous , with or without sleeves and above all, in all colors possible and unimaginable - without forgetting those with patterns!
© Imperial Festival
An oversized down jacket from the Fête Impériale brand
It is therefore not uncommon to see it worn as an alternative to another type of jacket, in a chic spirit . Example below with the Italian blogger Chiara Ferragni who wears hers as she could have done with a blazer - her burgundy down jacket also takes up certain codes, such as the collar, the pocket at chest level, the buttoning... A belt bag in the form of a clutch gives structure to the silhouette , completed by a shirt, black jeans and combat boots.
The down jacket is also used to bring contrast to very feminine silhouettes , by wearing it in opposition to pieces specific to the women's wardrobe, such as dresses, skirts or even heels. Example below with a short cream down jacket, mixed with a checked skirt and mustard yellow seventies boots.
Here, it comes in a pastel shade which brings softness, and almost “calms down” the bulky appearance of the down jacket . On the feet, chunky sneakers add structure and respond to the sportswear spirit of the jacket, and break up the more chic dimension of the dress.
Finally, I end with a different proposal, and one of interesting proportions .
The down jacket is long, but rather thin and padded. It creates continuity with a dark, straight dress, and is accessorized with a scarf tied around the neck, for a touch of elegance and retro.
Our first down jacket comes out on September 30
September 30 at 6 p.m., more precisely.
Benoît reveals all his secrets to you by email on Tuesday September 27 . He will talk to you in particular about the very special flannel that we have selected for you.
To be part of the adventure and access our collection from this Thursday, September 29, register here .
We'll see you on the other side. ;-)