Summer is already (well) here, it has never been so hot . Your skin is suffocating and your legs are just asking to breathe. You are lively, you want to put your legs in the air.
A dilemma arises. Shorts or Bermuda shorts? Where do they come from? What differentiates them? What brings them together? How to wear them? And above all, which of the two absolutely deserves its place in your wardrobe?
We will attempt (with humility) to answer this flood of questions.
HISTORY OF CLOTHING
1. SHORTS, HISTORICALLY SPORTY
The life of shorts is not a long quiet river. It is historical, man has always wanted to have practical pants, allowing fluidity of movement . From the Middle Ages, the ancient breeches (loose pants attached to the ankles by a small rope) began to be shortened to allow peasants to work more comfortably. It was therefore a "popular" garment, worn by peasants or convicts.
A drawing from the Old Testament dating from the 13th century
In the 19th century, (very) short pants spread among the different social classes, but remained exclusively used for sports , always keeping in mind this practical side. It was still very badly perceived to show one's legs, so athletes wore shorts with large woolen high socks . Comfortable, but not very attractive.
Starting line of an event at the 1896 Olympic Games. Credits: Larousse
It was at the first Olympic Games, in 1896 , that the fate of shorts would change. Almost all (male) athletes wore shorts, seduced by this short, loose, comfortable garment. At the beginning of the 20th century, tennis players, golfers, baseball players, most regular athletes had a pair of sports shorts in their wardrobe.
It was not until 1936 that shorts experienced real emancipation .
During the period of the “happy days”, in the summer of 1936, all French people were able to go on paid vacation. Mass tourism exploded, many families rushed to the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts. Shorts did not ask for so much, since they were all the rage among men.
Shorts, reserved for little boys. Credits: National Library of Australia
Sport is therefore losing its monopoly on shorts, in favor of the beach, walks and relaxation. Finally.
Historically used for physical activities, shorts have evolved a lot since the days of braies. The item has undergone many changes , gradually conquering the market in the early 60s. Some luxury brands have even looked into it . In the meantime, morals have relaxed, and women have finally had the right to wear something other than dresses.
Taryn Manning, in a very 80s style. It's the ultimate culmination of shorts, which have never been shorter. Credits: Donato Sardella/WireImage/Getty
After this incredible story, one might think that the shorts are the only master on board. But no.
2. BERMUDA SHORTS, PROTECT AND SERVE WITHOUT SWEAT
Bermuda shorts appeared in the 19th century… in Bermuda . Logical.
One of the historic tailors on Front Street in Hamilton (photo taken in the early 20th century). Credit: The Bermudian
The owner of a tea room in Hamilton (the capital of the archipelago), a certain Nathaniel Coxon , was tired of hearing his employees complain about the heat: under a blazing sun, and while bringing scalding tea, the waiters had to come and go wearing a blue blazer and khaki pants. One day, it was too much, he decided to gather all the pants and cut them above the knee. Problem solved.
One summer day in 1816, Admiral Mason Berridge came to Coxon's drawing room for tea. He was impressed by the ingenuity of the draftees' uniform, which combined comfort, ventilation and elegance. With the British soldiers (also!) complaining about their uniforms, the admiral decided to equip the draftees with similarly cut trousers.
British soldiers in the early 20th century. Credits: British Army
At the beginning of the 20th century, Bermuda shorts became fashionable among Bermudian bankers, who proudly wore them in the office as well as at a fancy dinner. Often on the move, these bankers helped popularize Bermuda shorts outside the island's borders. Their international reception was mixed, with some English coastal towns even banning them, under penalty of fines.
Initially dark, the Bermuda pants are brightened up to recall the light shades of the archipelago (turquoise blue, sand pink, parrot green, etc.)
Typical Bermudian attire on Sunday. Credits: Bermuda Online
It lost its remaining formality at the end of World War II, when dress codes relaxed . Indeed, before this period, it was frowned upon for a woman to show the beginning of her thighs. Dark times.
Since then, young (and not so young) holidaymakers and beachgoers from all over the world have quickly swapped the swimsuit pulled up to the navel for more elegant, informal, relaxed Bermuda shorts. Perfect for a holiday in Salonika.
But history is boring! The real question is , how to differentiate one from the other?
The main difference between the two is the length of the garment.
The shorts start from the waistband and go to mid-thigh , or even the first third of the thigh . Designed to facilitate the range of movement during a sports session, its short length guarantees freedom and comfort.
Bermuda shorts, longer than shorts, go above the knee . They can (rarely) cover it, but no further, otherwise they would turn into capri pants. Less associated with sport than their opponent, Bermuda shorts are more urban.
Now you know how to tell the difference between shorts and Bermuda shorts. That's something!
AND IN WHAT SUBJECT?
You will see for yourself that there is something for everyone. The offer is incredible, both for shorts and Bermuda shorts.
Rather natural material? There is everything, from wool Bermuda shorts to hemp shorts, denim or fleece. Some brands have even gone further, like Maison Cashmere or Saint-Laurent . If the material exists, there are surely shorts made with it.
Like Benoît, are you passionate about technical materials ? Are your sheets made of photovoltaic polyethylene? Do you wear techwear like a glove? There is something for you too.
The choice of material is decisive for the look or outfit you are preparing. While knowing that there is an outfit for every context.
We have already studied the case of shorts and Bermuda shorts in the past, do not hesitate to take a look.
4 WAYS TO WEAR SHORTS OR BERMUDA SHORTS (BY DAVID)
There are 1001 ways to wear shorts. Here is a selection of 4 interesting silhouettes and some keys to understanding these outfits.
1. START SOFTLY
To add some pep to an outfit consisting of fairly simple Bermuda shorts (plain beige or blue, for example), try a colorful and/or patterned top.
Here, the ecru Bermuda shorts are complemented by a printed shirt.
The classic light sneakers are swapped for a pair of olive green espadrilles, probably made of suede leather. They add a bit of color to this ensemble.
2. WITH A TOUCH OF ELEGANCE
Bermuda shorts are a casual garment. But it is possible to make them a little more dressy, for example by giving them a high waist, a straight cut, pleats on the front and a cuffed bottom for example, like on more dressy pants.
So, we can consider wearing it with a tucked-in shirt. Here, it's checked and because it's summer, we wear it open over a tank top and the sleeves rolled up.
On his feet, this gentleman chooses sandals. These are made of smooth leather and quite closed, therefore a little more elegant than classic Birkenstock-type sandals.
3. ONCE PREPPY, ALWAYS PREPPY
Here's an outfit with obvious Ivy League inspiration.
If the camel-colored Bermuda shorts are relatively simple, the clothes that go with them give all their flavor to this silhouette.
We therefore find:
- A button-down oxford shirt, an iconic piece of Ivy style
- A tartan jacket (it's even a patchwork of different tartans)
- Moccasins with a bit, that is to say with a small metal bar on the front
- And visible colored socks which are recalled by the cap
Here, we can note that the shoes and the shirt are in neutral colors, which allows the jacket to express itself fully.
Colors also work well around Bermuda shorts: camel + green, camel + black or even camel + white are three color combinations that work.
If you want to try the shorts + blazer combo in a simpler way than here, here is what I would recommend:
- A casual shirt (oxford, cotton/linen, chambray) or a striped t-shirt
- A light and supple blazer
- Loafers without visible socks or sober canvas sneakers
4. TRY SHORTS
Want to try shorts?
In this case, my advice would be to embrace your sporty side.
Here with a combo of Converse high tops + white socks. And a baseball cap too. On top, the t-shirt is a natural choice.
AND WHAT ABOUT SHORTS?
“For me, there is no style issue on capri pants” - Jordan, fatalist.
You're starting to know us at BonneGueule. We're not going to choose for you, you're the one who builds your style, who makes your choices. We won't judge.
If your style is “strong”, why not capri pants. The piece being hybrid , it has seduced Simon Porte Jacquemus as much as the creators of the Gémo brand. The capri pants are therefore worn at a fancy evening, or during a trek in the Ardennes. A garment that is often vague and misunderstood.
Lois Hazel revisiting the capri pants at Melbourne Fashion Week (2018) Credits: Naomi Rahim/WireImage/Getty
It was Sonnja de Lennart , a Prussian designer, who invented the capri pants in the 50s. For her, the capri pants highlighted the woman's calf. An immediate success: it dressed Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina (1954) or Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Woman (1956).
Audrey Hepburn on the set of Sabrina, with her iconic capri pants (Source: WikiCommons)
It conquered the United States a few years later, notably thanks to The Dick Van Dyke Show , where actress Mary Tyler Moore asked to wear capri pants rather than a classic dress: “I think I was the first woman in a television series not to wear a flowery dress and heels to vacuum the living room.”
Mary Tyler Moore, in capri pants. (1971) Credits: Hulton Archive/Getty
It is particularly popular with feminists because it reveals part of the leg, which was still divisive at the time. Symbolically, women traded their long dresses and skirts for a garment that hugged the shape of the leg.
Although it has disappeared somewhat in the meantime, particularly in favor of shorts, it is gradually starting to reappear. Due to its atypical length, it now represents a real challenge , both in design and when it has to be worn.
And since the subject is quasi-political , we asked Jordan to be the mediator:
“For me, there is no style issue with capri pants. I understand the practical utility of having your ankles exposed but not wanting to go all the way to shorts, but it poses a silhouette problem. It cuts the silhouette in a place where it makes no sense . The outfit comes out as unbalanced: either you think you're seeing a hobbit or a giant. And the question I've been asking myself for so many years: is there a real benefit to wearing capri pants rather than light pants? Do you really feel the difference? I'm skeptical.”
It is always good to keep in mind that trends are unpredictable. Who knows, we are not immune to a boom in capri pants within 5 years. A great challenge for adventurous designers.
AND FOR WOMEN? - WHAT NAWAL SAYS
In terms of women's fashion, I feel like there's a lot more freedom when it comes to choosing the length of your bottoms . Mini-shorts, Bermuda shorts, capri pants, 7/8 pants... In fact, it's like with skirts: the key is to find the right balance between style, lifestyle and flattering cut .
In a summer context, denim shorts are a good ally: they can be mixed with a white t-shirt or a more dressy blouse , with sneakers or sandals... In terms of cut, we choose them high-waisted and slightly flared at the thighs: it is more elegant and comfortable, especially for sitting. In winter, we turn instead to black leather shorts, associated with tights .
Bermuda shorts have been popular again for a few seasons now. But be careful, we're talking about chic Bermuda shorts: those that are high-waisted and flared at the thighs (we'll come back to that), in a plain fabric or with a very classic pattern (low-contrast gingham or fine vertical stripes, for example) , why not with pleats... Thanks to their more conventional length, they can even be worn to the office with city shoes.
Linen Bermuda shorts (Source: Benetton)
What about capri pants? They are currently making a huge comeback, and are even being called “hype”. But because style will always prevail over trends, it is better to focus on classic and timeless styles . So avoid models that are too tight, which are frankly not elegant and cut off the silhouette. We say no to those inspired by the 2000s (with flashy colors and pockets galore), which will not last the season. Once again, we want high waist , amplitude, fluidity, and rather plain.
Finally, the women's wardrobe also has an alternative to the above-mentioned clothes, called "the culottes skirt" - it's personally what I prefer to wear . It's a piece that is very fitted at the waist and immediately flares out, giving a skirt effect - except that, surprise, the two legs are connected by fabric, like shorts, Bermuda shorts or capri pants would be ( the two photos in the post below are even more telling! ). It's elegant, practical, comfortable, and it comes in several lengths. Bingo.
MATCH RESULT
This fight was epic.
On the field, the shorts have spared no effort to show that they are the most comfortable, the most athletic, the most technical, the most airy. Worn by Jesse Owens, Marie-Josée Perec or Kylian Mbappé, they are their most faithful ally, and it is also thanks to them that these three athletes (and so many others!) have become sports legends.
Bunny Austin in a match, 1938. Credit: Keystone/Getty
The more pragmatic Bermuda shorts have resisted the assaults of their best enemy, as they have for almost 200 years. Reliable, elegant , rather informal, they think they have it all. No doubt about their British origins (ok, Bermudian, but it's the same). A straighter cut, less loose, with more length, Bermuda shorts must be chosen and worn carefully.
Michael Kors, who also revisited Bermuda shorts at New York Fashion Week in 2018. Credits: Catwalking/Getty Images
You may have already understood, shorts are full of virtues, but their "too sporty" side costs them points. This is how Bermuda shorts narrowly win over shorts for this match: Bermuda shorts are the ultimate must-have for the summer man. Originating from a little corner of paradise, they have been able to adapt, improve and get out of their comfort zone to conquer the whole world.
It has seduced both the bourgeois elite and the working classes, with its sobriety and aesthetics. No matter the material or the color, it has this side: "I'm enjoying the sun, so I don't have time for you". This is perhaps the main asset of Bermuda shorts.
So okay, doing push-ups in Bermuda shorts is a concept. But not as much as matching a shirt and shorts.
HOW TO DIFFERENTIATE THEM?
Before we start the match, let's learn (or relearn) the differences between the two pieces. Some brands do not necessarily use the right term, leaving the customer in doubt, with a questioning without any bottom or answer, a desert of ignorance.