Summer is already (well) here, it has never been so hot . Your skin is suffocating and your legs just want to breathe. You are lively, you want to put your legs in the air.
There comes a dilemma. Shorts or Bermuda shorts? Where do they come from ? What makes them different? What brings them together? How to wear them? And above all, which of the two absolutely deserves its place in your wardrobe?
We will try (with humility) to answer this flood of questions.
HISTORY OF CLOTHING
1. SHORTS, HISTORICALLY SPORTY
The life of shorts is not a long, quiet river. It's historical, man has always wanted to have practical pants, allowing fluidity of movement . From the Middle Ages, ancient breeches (loose pants attached to the ankles with a small rope) began to be shortened to allow peasants to work more comfortably. It was therefore a “popular” garment, worn by peasants or convicts.
A drawing from the Old Testament dating from the 13th century
In the 19th century, (very) short pants spread among the different social classes, but remained exclusively used for sport , always keeping this practical side in mind. It is still very frowned upon to show your legs, so athletes wear shorts with large wool socks . Comfortable, but not very attractive.
Starting line of an event at the 1896 Olympic Games. Credits: Larousse
It was at the first Olympic Games, in 1896 , that the fate of shorts changed. Almost all (male) athletes wear shorts, attracted by this short, loose, comfortable garment. At the beginning of the 20th century, tennis players, golfers, baseball players, most regular athletes had sports shorts in their wardrobe.
It was not until 1936 that shorts experienced real emancipation .
During the period of “happy days”, in the summer of 1936, all French people were able to go on paid leave. Mass tourism is booming, with many families flocking to the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts. The shorts didn't require that much, since they are all the rage with men.
Shorts, reserved for boys. Credits: National Library of Australia
Sport therefore loses its monopoly on shorts, in favor of the beach, walks and lazing around. Finally.
Historically used for physical activities, shorts have evolved since the days of braies. The piece has undergone numerous developments , gradually conquering the market in the early 1960s. Some luxury brands have even looked into its case . In the meantime, morals became more flexible, and women finally had the right to wear something other than dresses.
Taryn Manning, in a very 80s style. It's the ultimate achievement of shorts, which have never been so short. Credits: Donato Sardella/WireImage/Getty
After this incredible story, one might think that the shorts are the only masters on board. But no.
2. BERMUDA, PROTECT AND SERVE WITHOUT SWEATING
Bermuda shorts appeared during 1
One of the historic tailors on Front Street, Hamilton (photo taken in the early 20th century). Credit: The Bermudian
The owner of a tea room in Hamilton (the capital of the archipelago), a certain Nathaniel Coxon , was tired of hearing his employees complain about the heat: under a blazing sun, and by bringing hot tea, the Waiters had to come and go wearing a blue blazer and khaki pants. One day, it's too much, he decides to collect all the pants and cut them off above the knee. Problem fixed.
One summer day in 1816, Admiral Mason Berridge came to take tea at Coxon's drawing room. He is impressed by the ingenuity of the employees' uniform, which combines comfort, ventilation and elegance. As the British soldiers complained (too!) about their uniform, the admiral decided to equip the draftees with similarly cut pants.
British soldiers at the beginning of the 20th century. Credits: British Army
At the beginning of the 20th century, Bermuda shorts became fashionable among Bermudian bankers, who proudly wore this garment at the office as well as at a chic dinner. Often on the move, these bankers helped popularize Bermuda shorts outside the island's borders. Its international reception is mixed, with some English coastal towns even banning it, under penalty of fines.
Initially dark, the Bermuda pants brighten up, to recall the light shades of the archipelago (turquoise blue, sand pink, parrot green, etc.)
The typical outfit of Bermudians in their Sunday best. Credits: Bermuda Online
It lost what little formality remained at the end of World War II, when dress codes relaxed . Indeed, before this period, it was frowned upon for a woman to show the beginning of her thighs. Dark times.
Since then, young (and not so young) vacationers and beachgoers from all over the world have quickly swapped the swimsuit pulled up to the navel for more elegant, informal, relaxed Bermuda shorts. Perfect for a vacation in Salonika.
But history is boring! The real question is , how to differentiate one from the other?
The main difference between the two is in the length of the garment.
The shorts start from the belt and go to mid-thigh , or even the first third of the thigh . Designed to facilitate range of movement during a sports session, its short length guarantees freedom and comfort.
Bermuda shorts, longer than shorts, go above the knee . It can (rarely) cover it, but not further, otherwise it would turn into capri pants. Less associated with sport than its opponent, Bermuda shorts are more urban.
You now know how to differentiate shorts from Bermuda shorts. It's already that !
AND IN WHAT MATERIAL?
You will see for yourself that there is something for everyone. The offer is insane, both for shorts and Bermuda shorts.
Rather natural material? There is everything from wool Bermuda shorts to hemp shorts, including denim and fleece. Some brands have even gone further, like Maison Cashmere or Saint-Laurent . If the material exists, there are surely shorts made with it.
Like Benoît, are you passionate about technical subjects ? Are your sheets made of photovoltaic polyethylene? Do you wear techwear like a glove? There's something for you too.
The choice of material is decisive for the look or outfit you are preparing. While knowing that there is an outfit for any context.
We have already studied the case of shorts and Bermuda shorts in the past, don't hesitate to take a look.
4 WAYS TO WEAR SHORTS OR BERMUDA (BY DAVID)
There are 1001 ways to wear shorts. Here is a selection of 4 interesting silhouettes and some keys to understanding these outfits.
1. WE START GENTLY
To add some pep to an outfit consisting of a fairly simple pair of Bermuda shorts (beige or plain blue for example), try a colorful and/or patterned top.
Here, the ecru Bermuda shorts are complemented by a printed shirt.
The classic light sneakers are swapped for a pair of olive green espadrilles, probably in suede leather. They add a little color to this ensemble.
2. WITH A POINT OF ELEGANCE
Bermuda shorts are casual clothing. But it is possible to make it a little dressier, for example by giving it a high waist, a straight cut, darts at the front and a cuffed bottom for example, like on dressier pants.
So, we can consider wearing it with a tucked-in shirt. Here, it's in checks and because it's summer, we wear it open over a tank top and with the sleeves rolled up.
On his feet, this gentleman chooses sandals. These are made of smooth leather and quite closed, so a little more elegant than classic Birkenstock-type sandals.
3. ONE DAY PREPPY, ALWAYS PREPPY
Here is an outfit whose Ivy League inspiration is obvious.
If the camel-colored Bermuda shorts are relatively simple, the clothes associated with them give all the flavor to this silhouette.
We therefore find:
- An Oxford shirt with a buttoned collar, an emblematic piece of Ivy style
- A tartan patterned jacket (it’s even a patchwork of different tartans)
- Horsebit moccasins, that is to say with a small metal bar on the front
- And visible colored socks which are recalled by the cap
Here, we can note that the shoes and the shirt are in neutral colors, which allows the jacket to fully express itself.
The colors also work well around Bermuda shorts: camel + green, camel + black or even camel + white are three color combinations that work.
If you want to try the shorts + blazer combo in a simpler way than here, here is what I would recommend:
- A casual shirt (oxford, cotton/linen, chambray) or striped t-shirt
- A light and supple blazer
- Loafers without visible socks or simple canvas sneakers
4. TRY THE SHORTS
Want to try shorts?
In this case, my advice will be to embrace your sporting side.
Here with a Converse high top + white socks combo. And a baseball cap too. At the top, the t-shirt is a natural choice.
AND THE CROPPED PANTS IN ALL THIS?
“For me, there is no style issue on cropped pants” - Jordan, fatalist.
You are starting to know us at BonneGueule. We are not going to choose for you, it is you who build your style, who make your choices. We won't judge.
If your style is “strong”, cropped pants why not. The piece being hybrid , it appealed as much to Simon Porte Jacquemus as to the creators of the Gémo brand. The cropped pants can therefore be worn in a fancy evening, or during a trek in the Ardennes. A garment that is often vague and misunderstood.
Lois Hazel revisiting cropped pants at Melbourne Fashion Week (2018) Credits: Naomi Rahim/WireImage/Getty
It was Sonnja de Lennart , a Prussian designer, who invented the cropped pants in the 1950s. For her, the cropped pants highlighted a woman's calf. Immediate success: he dressed Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina (1954) or Brigitte Bardot in And God... Created Woman (1956).
Audrey Hepburn on the set of Sabrina, with her iconic capri pants (Source: WikiCommons)
It conquered the United States a few years later, notably thanks to The Dick Van Dyke Show , where actress Mary Tyler Moore asked to wear capri pants rather than a classic dress: “I think I was the first woman in a television series not to wear a floral dress and heels to vacuum the living room.”
Mary Tyler Moore, in capri pants. (1971) Credits: Hulton Archive/Getty
It is particularly popular with feminists because it reveals part of the leg, which was still divisive at the time. Symbolically, the woman swapped her long dresses and skirts for clothing that hugged the shape of the leg.
If it has disappeared a little in the meantime, notably in favor of shorts, it is starting to gradually reappear. With its atypical length, it today represents a real challenge , both in design and when it has to be worn.
And given that the subject is quasi-political , we asked Jordan to be the mediator:
“For me, there is no style issue on capri pants. I understand the practical usefulness of having the ankles exposed but not wanting to go all the way to shorts but that poses a silhouette problem. It cuts off the silhouette in a place where it makes no sense . The outfit appears unbalanced: either you think you're seeing a hobbit or a giant. And the question I've been asking myself for so many years: is there a real benefit to wearing cropped pants rather than light pants? Do we really feel the difference? I’m skeptical.”
It's always good to keep in mind that trends are unpredictable. Who knows, we are not immune to a boom in capri pants within 5 years. A great challenge for adventurous creators.
WHAT FOR WOMEN? - WHAT NAWAL SAYS
In terms of women's fashion, I have the feeling that there is a lot more freedom when it comes to choosing the length of your bottom . Mini-shorts, Bermuda shorts, cropped pants, 7/8 pants... In fact, it's like with skirts: the main thing is to find the right balance between style, lifestyle and flattering cut .
In a summer context, denim shorts are a good ally: they can be mixed with a white t-shirt or a dressier blouse , with sneakers or sandals... In terms of cut, we choose them high waisted and slightly flared at the thighs: it is more elegant and comfortable, especially for sitting. In winter, we tend to turn to black leather shorts, combined with tights .
Bermuda shorts have been popular again in recent seasons. But be careful, we're talking about chic Bermuda shorts here: those that are high waisted and flared at the thighs (we'll come back to that), in a plain fabric or with a very classic pattern (low-contrast gingham or fine vertical stripes, for example) , why not with pliers... Thanks to its more conventional length, it can even be worn to the office with dress shoes.
Linen Bermuda shorts (Source: Benetton)
What about cropped pants? It is currently making a resounding comeback, and is even being accused of “hype”. But because style will always take precedence over trends, it is better to focus on classic and timeless . We therefore avoid models that are too tight, which are frankly not elegant and cut into the silhouette. We say no to those inspired by the 2000s (with flashy colors and pockets galore), which will not survive the season. Once again, we want high waist , fullness, fluidity, and rather plain.
Finally, the women's wardrobe also has an alternative to the clothes mentioned above, called “culottes” - this is personally what I prefer to wear . It is a very fitted piece at the waist and immediately flares out, giving a skirt effect - except that, surprise, the two legs are connected by fabric, like shorts, Bermuda shorts or capri pants ( both photos). from the post below are even more telling! It's elegant, practical, comfortable, and it comes in several lengths. Bingo.
MATCH RESULT
This fight was Dantesque.
On the field, the shorts spared no effort to show that they were the most comfortable, the most sporty, the most technical, the most airy. Worn by Jesse Owens, Marie-Josée Perec or Kylian Mbappé, it is their most faithful ally, it is also thanks to it that these three athletes (and so many others!) have become legends of sport.
Bunny Austin in a match, in 1938. Credits: Keystone/Getty
Bermuda shorts, more pragmatic, have resisted the attacks of their greatest enemy, as they have for almost 200 years. Reliable, elegant , rather informal, he thinks he has everything going for him. No doubt about its British origin (ok, Bermudian, but it's the same). A straighter cut, less loose, with more length, Bermuda shorts must be chosen and worn carefully.
Michael Kors, who also revisited Bermuda shorts at New York Fashion Week in 2018. Credits: Catwalking/Getty Images
You may have already understood, shorts are full of virtues, but their “too sporty” side costs them points. This is how Bermuda shorts narrowly beat shorts for this match: Bermuda shorts is the ultimate must-have for the summer man. Originating from a little corner of paradise, he knew how to adapt, improve and leave his comfort to conquer the whole world.
It appealed as much to the bourgeois elite as to the working classes, with its sobriety and aesthetics. No matter the material, the color, it has this side: “I'm enjoying the sun, so I don't have time for you”. This is perhaps the main advantage of Bermuda shorts.
So ok, doing push-ups in Bermuda shorts is a concept. But not as much as matching shirt and shorts.
HOW TO DIFFERENTIATE THEM?
Before we start the match, let's learn (or relearn) the differences between the two pieces. Some brands do not necessarily use the appropriate term, leaving the customer in doubt, questions without substance or answer, a desert of ignorance.