Two years after the end of the influential series “Sex & the City”, costume designer Patricia Field returns to the world of fashion in the film “The Devil Wears Prada”: Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway and Emily Blunt tell us tell the story behind the scenes of an editorial inspired by American Vogue. Fashion hell, myth or reality? Decryption in the company of three fashion journalists.
(Cover photo credit: Meryl Streep in “The Devil Wears Prada” - photo IMAGO / Everett Collection)
The pitch: Runway, this merciless universe
The action takes place in New York. Young Andrea “Andy” Sachs, to everyone’s surprise, obtains the position of assistant to the editor-in-chief of the powerful fashion magazine Runway. Andy is inexperienced, prefers to dream of being a journalist and has little interest in fashion trends. She shares her office with Emily Charlton, a fashion buff who bends over backwards to meet the excessive demands of their boss Miranda Priestly. She is a woman of influence, formidable and feared. Fashion has no secrets for her and for good reason: she is the one who makes it. The job is tough, and if Andy is regularly mocked for her style, she will quickly get used to this new world where fashion and clothing are kings...
“The Devil Wears Prada” is a film by David Frankel released in 2006. It is adapted from the best-selling book of the same name, published in 2003 by Lauren Weisberger. In the cast: Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway, Emily Blunt, Stanley Tucci and even Simon Baker. The costumes are by Patricia Field, already noticed on the now cult series “Sex and the City” .
In the series of films devoted to the world of fashion , we can certainly prefer the cinematographic touch of Robert Altman – “Ready to Wear” in 1994. But in the genre, “The Devil Wears Prada” has his own arguments, and the art of cinema costume at work here is certainly no stranger to it.
Costumes and style Patricia Field
The “The Devil Wears Prada” costume designer became legendary in the late 90s with her work on the series “Sex and the City.” How can we evoke the world of fashion and its editorials, if not through the words of those who experience it from the inside?
To decipher “The Devil Wears Prada”, I went to meet fashion editors: Clément Laré from Stylist magazine and Nina Boutléroff, a freelance journalist who regularly writes for Elle magazine . To complete the team: my colleague Nawal Bonnefoy, at the origin of most of our content dedicated to women's fashion (but not only). They tell you, each in their own way, what makes “The Devil Wears Prada” interesting.
Clément Laré: “Stylist Patricia Field is an icon for many people . What I remember from his work is that his influence goes well beyond cinema. She is very, very respected in the fashion world, much more with “Sex and the City” than with “The Devil Wears Prada”. It must be said that with “Sex and the City”, Patricia Field really created and influenced trends alongside Sarah Jessica Parker. Every piece seen on the characters was a hit, so much so that brands were fighting to appear on the show.
However, the costumes from “The Devil Wears Prada” are also iconic. We saw it again very recently when Anne Hathaway arrived at the Michael Kors fashion show in New York with bangs and a look (leather jacket and skirt, turtleneck sweater) that resembled those of Andy Sachs. The whole Internet went crazy over this outfit because we suddenly felt like we were seeing the character from “The Devil Wears Prada” again. This is one proof among others that the looks that Patricia Field created for the character and for the film in general are anchored in people's imagination . They left their mark on everyone who saw and loved the film. »
Nina Boutléroff: “I really like Patricia Field's work, especially what she did on the series “Sex and the City”. It’s completely pioneering. It is also a work that takes place over time. We remember both ultra modern outfits and characters . This also applies to the characters in the film “The Devil Wears Prada”.
What is interesting to see, for example, is that the outfits of the heroine played by Anne Hathaway at the beginning of the film are much less strong than those of her colleague Emily . It's normal in the sense that it goes with Anne Hathaway's character: he's supposed to be nerdy, shy, introverted. There is also something a little cliché about it because at first she wears outfits that are a bit beige, ordinary, without personality. His style would subsequently become more fashionable and sharper. »
THEN: Anne Hathaway's debut in "The Devil Wears Prada," 2006. (IMAGO / Everett Collection)
AFTER: Anne Hathaway's new look in "The Devil Wears Prada", 2006. (IMAGO / Everett Collection)
Nawal Bonnefoy: “The outfits from “The Devil Wears Prada” could, 17 years later, be completely worn today. Not so much because fashion from the 2000s is making a comeback but rather because there is a search for style in the film's costumes that is both cutting-edge and timeless .
I think, for example, of Meryl Streep's character, who wears bags and coats that fit exactly with the time when the film was released but at the same time have impeccable cuts that are, even today, very elegant. . The character of Emily, who is Miranda Priestly's number one assistant in the film, has a slightly more gothic/rock style while once again being very sharp: mini-dresses, leather, a total black look. This all goes very well with his character. But the most important thing is of course the character of Anne Hathaway, and in particular her makeover phase where she finds herself wearing Chanel and other luxury brands.
I think about this fabulous scene, when she walks in the streets of New York: she has an outfit in each new shot and they are really fantastic looks. There is the perfect balance between fashion trends and true timelessness . These are looks that haven't aged a bit. This is all the more remarkable since upon rewatching, many films from the 2000s do not add much from a stylistic point of view: they are sort of time capsules marked by the fashion of the 2000s, but which do not allow us to project ourselves into today's fashion. »
Luxury brands, image and inclusiveness
The “Devil Wears Prada” brand universe is strongly anchored in luxury and great designers. If the film is not free from some stubborn clichés on the subject, what do we think of the image of women conveyed by these brands? Would the evolution of society, particularly in terms of inclusiveness, tend to change the situation?
On the other hand, I don't think there is a physique or personality typical of these brands. There are brands for which this is the case. I think for example of Saint Laurent or Celine by Hedi Slimane, where the women remain very (too) thin. The style of these brands requires that the models are always slender. These are brands that are still very resistant to more inclusiveness on the catwalks.
The brands found in “The Devil Wears Prada” are more in tune with the times. They certainly paraded skinny models in the 2000s, like everyone else . But things are finally changing, even if still too slowly among European brands. Conversely, castings in New York are very inclusive. In Europe, mainly in Milan and especially in Paris, it's long, it takes time but things are finally starting to change and brands like Chanel, Prada or Dolce & Gabbana are taking over.
On the other hand, it is true that these are brands with a recognizable style and silhouette . We know the Chanel silhouette: it’s the tweed suit. The same goes for the others: very cerebral minimalism at Prada or even very sexy Italian at Dolce & Gabbana. »
Nina Boutléroff: “The effort to represent brands goes well beyond the work of fashion editors. It is also the responsibility of fashion houses. The Chanel woman, the Dior woman: these are somewhat old school images and speeches, which have set the pace for fashion for years . Today, things are changing: we need to be more inclusive, make clothes for everyone, not just for a certain type of woman or a certain typology of woman , what's more in a form of elitism and therefore rejection of some of the other women. But I also think that this phenomenon concerns all walks of life and all professions. »
The fashion world of yesterday and today
Beneath its airs of a polite romantic comedy, there is something relatively fierce in “The Devil Wears Prada”: the film indeed depicts a world that is sometimes cruel and often obsessive with regard to style and detail . Has it helped to forge an image of the fashion world among the general public? And has the situation changed in fashion and editorials since the success of the film?
Clément Laré: “The film really impressed the public on what they imagine the world of fashion to be. For people from the outside, who don't work in this industry, we sometimes have the impression that all fashion editorials resemble those of “The Devil Wears Prada”. Fortunately, this is not the case . Was this the case? Certainly. Is it still? In some places, sure. But it should be noted that the world of journalism and the press has changed and new generations have arrived. They have a different relationship with the world of work, they perhaps let less things slip by.
Today, no one would accept, for example, being at the mercy of a tyrannical boss like the one in “The Devil Wears Prada” . On the other hand, it is likely that the image of fashion editorial is “The Devil Wears Prada” for the general public. The film really helped shape this vision. I can reassure those who are worried: for a large majority of us, we do not have a tyrannical editor-in-chief who forces us to fetch the latest volume of Harry Potter or twelve coffees a day. »
Nina Boutléroff: “We need to differentiate between fashion and fashion editorials . If the film can seem so cliché, it's because it's an American film and the scenario must be up to par. The film is very inspired by the editorial staff of American Vogue. I never worked at Vogue myself but I think that the atmosphere, the bickering or the way the boss treats her employees exists or existed. However, this is neither specific to fashion editorials nor to fashion houses .
In the film, we discover a feminine environment, with something a little old-fashioned against which we try to fight a little more today with small layers of sorority: it is this cliché which consists of saying that women cannot get along well . That, unfortunately, is true. It exists. But I also have the impression that it is fading a little at this level with the younger generations, particularly in terms of competition. After all, it's true, it's not just a cliché: fashion remains an environment where egos are enormous .
The older generation was accustomed to a lot of pomp, means, glitter, etc. Even just take the plane to attend the fashion shows in New York, Milan, etc. Today, the question of carbon footprint looms over our heads. So yes, it's an environment where the egos that experienced the golden age of fashion are very oversized.
For example, it's very trendy in this environment to complain, to say that the buffet is disgusting even though you're at the Ritz or to travel 500 meters by taxi. But this remains a minority. For toxic relationships at work, it's the same thing. It's something that tends to disappear.
For my part, I have the impression that consciences are waking up a little, whether they are environmentalists or feminists . I hope it will continue in this direction. There is certainly a lot of truth in “The Devil Wears Prada” but there is also a lot of scriptwriting : the film romanticizes real life and this universe belongs a little to the world before, at least I do. hope. »
Nawal Bonnefoy: “For my part, I wouldn’t say that the film allowed us to discover how ruthless the world of fashion can be. Firstly because the film is based on a best seller released a few years before, which is even more telling. The author actually personally worked as an assistant to Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue.
So she was already describing this universe and it was never a secret that fashion could be a complicated world. In the end, I'm not sure that the general public really formed an image of fashion with the film. People know very well that it remains fiction and that it is quite romanticized .
There is also a whole part of the film which shows that many people work in the shadows in this environment, and also that there is a form of art behind the clothing profession . It's not all negative. As for fashion editorials, I'm also not sure if the situation has changed with the success of the film. What I think, however, is that life is much more nuanced than what we see on screen . »
The key moment: the makeover stage
One of the most stunning things to see in “The Devil Wears Prada” is of course the makeover of its main heroine. What does it say about our relationship to fashion and clothing? And do you really have to be stylish when you work in a fashion editorial department ? If the character of Emily Blunt has a rather definitive idea on the question of style and her profession, the subject divides our guests.
Runway is a fashion magazine. Being interested in fashion is therefore crucial!
Clément Laré: “Anne Hathaway's change of look is one of the key moments of the film. The makeover exercise is present in many films from this period, from the end of the 90s until around 2010. For fans of the genre, the main heroine's makeover is even a very important moment. In the movie, Anne Hathaway's outfits are amazing. But what's quite funny is that with the trends that fluctuate, the initial outfit, with plaid skirt and blue sweater, could very well be found today on an Instagram influencer .
Personally, I have the chance to evolve in web fashion journalism. There are no usual constraints. I don't have to wear costumes, for example. I have never been criticized for the way I dress. It's a pretty free world. Clothing is truly a way of expressing yourself . I also think that those days when we necessarily expected a fashion journalist to look stylish with the latest brands are completely over.
Firstly because today more than ever, we are all very precarious. So we don't all dress in Chanel. And above all we know that fashion is a means of expression for people. Everyone is free to dress as they wish. Afterwards of course, when we are interested in fashion, we also like to experiment with it . But there is no, as in "The Devil Wears Prada", a spirit of the type "You can't come here like that, you have to look stylish with the latest Chanel boots" . Fortunately, this is no longer very relevant. »
Nawal Bonnefoy: “At the beginning of the film, Anne Hathaway is dressed very classically. Her first look is portrayed as the worst look in the world . In reality, she has a very simple blue sweater, a shirt whose collar sticks out and a skirt that is certainly a little "memerizing", not very elegant and a little long in checks, but it's not awful either.
With the transformation, her character becomes a real fashion beast, a fashionista . The first look of her "after style", with Chanel leather thigh-high boots that go so high that you can barely see the tip of her thigh, is simply incredible. This is the work of Runway magazine stylist Nigel, played by Stanley Tucci. It's a look a bit like Kate Moss: elegant, folk, chic , with large golden sautoir necklaces, large high boots, chef's hats like Gavroche caps revisited by great couturiers.
Today I work full time in a fashion editorial department, at BonneGueule. It definitely inspires me. Especially since I only work with boys. I actually tend to look at more “masculine” pieces than what I might normally wear. I got into flat moccasins, for example.
When you work with people who love fashion, it also invites you to get ready in the morning where before, when I worked in a news channel editorial department, I had a more practical mind. I paid less attention to it, I didn't see any harm, for example, in coming in jeans, a t-shirt and Converse . I wouldn't do the same thing today: I would make more of an effort to get dressed in the morning. In the end, no matter what job we do, clothing is unconsciously part of our lives . It's not about completely transforming yourself to be consistent with your environment. But I think our style evolves quite naturally with what we do on a daily basis. »
Nina Boutléroff: “For my part, I honestly want to answer yes: the fact of working in fashion influences the way I dress . .We are obliged to adapt our outfits to the circumstances. But I imagine it's a bit the same for everyone. If I have meetings with a fashion house, an interview with a designer or even a fashion show, I will of course adapt my outfit accordingly.
An editor-in-chief once told me: being a fashion journalist is, for many, a question of image . There is indeed work to represent the magazine, especially when you are a famous and reputable magazine . It is part of the fashion editor's duties to be well dressed.
However, being well dressed is also subjective . I think you should above all respect your style, not transform yourself into someone else . On the other hand, in the mouth of my editor-in-chief, being well dressed meant “having a neat outfit”. Which doesn't necessarily mean wearing heels or being overdressed.
Also, depending on the show you are attending, you will not dress in the same way depending on whether it is a Chanel or Marine Serre show. I'm sure fashion editors subconsciously adapt their outfits based on the house they're visiting . It's a bit like everyday life. Some people with a stronger personality or style will not deviate from their usual style. Others will adapt their outfits depending on the mood. It's like going to a rock concert or an opera: you dress accordingly, to feel in tune with the atmosphere. At least that's what I do on my side. »
Why watch the film again today?
If you are still hesitant to watch “The Devil Wears Prada” again, Clément, Nina and Nawal give you the broad outline of their arguments for starting to watch the film. Unsurprisingly, Meryl Streep's performance tips the scales enormously. But fortunately the film does not come down to an acting number.
Clément Laré: “Despite the fact that the film is a little harsh on the world of work, it made many people dream, and some even became fashion journalists. “The Devil Wears Prada” remains a fashion and pop culture reference . It's a cult film, very funny at times and sometimes a little cruel too. But that’s also what makes you laugh.
It’s a very good feel good film, the kind you watch on Sunday evenings . It is very well played and produced and I think it is still relevant in the sense that it deals with subjects which are still relevant beyond the world of fashion: the relationship and investment at work, the work/life balance.
In short: how far are you willing to go for a career? These are current and fairly universal questions. And then, there is of course Meryl Streep in the cast, in one of her best roles . For that alone, and also for the iconic costumes, it's worth watching the film again. »
Nina Boutléroff: “It’s a very good romantic and initiatory comedy . We observe the evolution of the main character but also the relationships between colleagues. The film particularly promotes self-affirmation . This is something quite inspiring in my opinion. This type of message is always good to take, even if it's done in a slightly clichéd way.
I would also recommend it for the looks and the work of the stylist , even if it is a little exaggerated, especially at a time when we are experiencing a big revival of the 2000s. I am thinking in particular of certain Balenciaga looks from the era, with the famous it bag of the 2000s. It has also been reissued and this trend is making a comeback.
If Patricia Field went a little far on certain looks, this is precisely what makes the style developed in the film interesting: the dresses, the big belts, the fashion of the late 90's and early 2000s. is a fairly timeless film, particularly through the story of this young woman who asserts herself . It’s a lesson that can be applied to all moments of life. The film is finally relevant from a fashion perspective. You can see what has changed, what still exists, etc. »
Nawal Bonnefoy: “The film can definitely be watched by someone who doesn't particularly like fashion: it's above all a comedy, with romanticism. The action takes place in the world of fashion but it can speak to everyone : it's the story of a young woman who begins her career in an environment that is quite foreign to her, even downright hostile.
It is also one of the films that propelled Anne Hathaway and Emily Blunt to superstardom , especially Emily Blunt who was virtually unknown at the time. This is the debut of these two actresses and they perform very well. And then there's Meryl Streep, in the role of the big bad, and that's worth all the arguments in the world. Even if you don't like fashion, the film can give a little glimpse of what it can be . Finally, it should be noted that the soundtrack is pretty cool, with a lot of Madonna and pop songs in it. »
