We wear jackets and blazers very often - every day for some -, whether to work or going out.
However, it is not the most comfortable clothing, especially in hot weather.
The good alternative is the unstructured jacket , a brilliant invention from our Italian neighbors. We also had the opportunity to publish an article on the subject last summer.
In addition to its characteristic lightness, we wanted to provide additional comfort , thanks to a naturally stretchy material .
And for the occasion, we are teaming up with Louis Purple, a brand with a rich history and know-how.
Swallow your last bite of linguini and put on your monks, we're leaving for Italy!
The unstructured and light BonneGueule x Louis Purple jacket, in cotton jersey, which gives it incredible natural stretch .
Why an unstructured jacket?
What is an unstructured jacket?
An unstructured jacket, or slack jacket
In the case of our collaboration with Louis Purple, we took their lightest jacket construction, with no padding !
The jacket adapts to all body shapes.
You see here that the shoulder of the jacket is very natural, it follows the curve of Florian's shoulder.
Often made of cotton or linen
The choice of material and its assembly mean that you are completely free to move with an unstructured jacket. You will finally have an airy drape on a jacket.
Here we are on 100% cotton, with a little trick to make it very comfortable but I will come back to this point.
An inspiration taken from Neapolitan jackets
We are more and more seduced by Italian style, in particular by the famous sprezzatura of which the unstructured jacket is an iconic piece.
Historically, Naples is a bastion of Italian sartorial culture. Luca and Long had also devoted a report to local crafts .
It's a light jacket , which has style while conveying a certain nonchalance
In short, it’s the ultimate “elegant-but-also-casual” blazer that we wanted to offer you! We are dressed but not stuffy, elegant but natural .
Why Louis Purple?
It's a brand that has existed for several years, and we have often received requests about it.
I will simply remind you of a few facts, Luca having already been very thorough in his test of the Louis Purple suits .
The brand has a boutique in Paris, at 37 avenue des Ternes in the 17th century.
Louis Purple belongs to a large group, manufacturing for several brands across the globe. For the record, the entire group produces an incredible 1,000,000 costumes per year. The brand draws two major advantages from this position:
- It has its own production tools . This is a rare thing in ready-to-wear, allowing it to offer accessible prices that are attractive in terms of quality.
- Louis Purple has great know-how in sleeved pieces - originally, Louis Purple was only a half-measures brand - which it continues to perfect thanks to the group.
Initially, half measures were Louis Purple's core business.
It has now chosen to diversify into PAP, its excellent quality/price/creation ratio offering it a fairly unique position on the market. It would be a bit like the French SuitSupply :)
It is a brand unfortunately absent on the Internet . Our collaboration therefore marks the first time their products will be available online.
A unique 100% cotton material (and very comfortable)
Convinced of the importance of materials
After last year's wool mesh blazer , Benoît and Alex wanted to explore new avenues, materials never before worked. While knowing that a light fabric was needed to match the very function of the jacket...
Louis Purple found a superb cotton jersey from Maggia, a specialist in knitting suit weight jersey . Real expertise is necessary, jersey is usually a knitting stitch used for t-shirts or sweatshirts!
The benefit of cotton jersey? It's like a t-shirt, it has a super comfortable natural stretch . Likewise, the knitting of jersey makes it airy and breathable, just like a t-shirt!
Attached to my freedom of movement, I almost never wear a classic wool blazer - and even then, I say "almost" for the sake of form -. However, here, it's day and night as we have this "extensible" side. I did the splits in the technical pants , I do the bridge in this jacket. Even better than Jane Fonda's aerobics videos.
You will be as surprised as me by this unexpected ease 😉
A sought-after texture
Herringbone jersey...
Usually, herringbones are found on twill weaves (characterized by diagonal lines). So it was a challenge to work them on a jersey base!
Ultimately, the pattern takes the light very well and remains completely suitable for casual influences. To use Benoît’s words:
At the time, only jackets worn in the countryside had a visible pattern. In a sense, the unstructured herringbone jacket is the brogue of the jacket. Except that here, given the size of the herringbones, we have a much more modern look than with the herringbones of a classic tweed.
... carried by two colors
A chevron is even more interesting when it is based on two distinct colors, thus highlighting its construction. We finally decided on the combination of navy blue and a very bright light gray , which gives off a mottled effect from afar.
You know Benoît's penchant for subtle patterns, our jacket is no exception to the rule:
The material reveals itself when you approach closely and takes on a more neutral appearance when you move a few steps away, it's an aspect that I particularly like!
It is by using two distinct colors that the chevrons are most highlighted.
A special covering
As you know, we are partial to semi-canvass. In this type of construction, the jacket has a heat-sealed base and tailoring canvas is used on the upper part. This gives it structure, a beautiful fall and above all a magnificent rolling (with the famous drop!).
Take a good look at the presentation video, Rudy from Louis Purple shows it in pictures :)
The tailoring canvas is added to the cartridge, a sort of skeleton of the jacket.
The white part corresponds to the cartridge, a bit like the skeleton of the jacket. On a canvas jacket, the cartridge and the horsehair canvas are assembled using a machine called a “strobel”.
We had to take a different approach on this collab for a very simple reason: it is impossible to assemble an unstructured semi-canvass jacket .
The piece would have far too much structure, depriving it of its characteristic drape and lightness (in fact, the tailoring canvas added to the cartridge would not achieve the expected fluidity).
A jacket with Neapolitan influences falls in a very natural, particularly supple way. It follows you when you move thanks to the elasticity of the jersey.
So I summarize the construction: very light iron-on (we're not cheating, it's visible inside the jacket, behind the facing) + cartridge = absolute comfort!
The thermo used is among the lightest in the world . The best iron-on seals can be maintained very well today and do not warp after several trips to the dry cleaners.
You will never feel stiff or crushed at the back. And you will see, your lapels will form a very beautiful roll!
A fitted cut that highlights the bust
Determining the cut of an unstructured jacket is a delicate exercise: you need a sufficiently “loose” line to fit the relaxed spirit of the piece, while providing curves to emphasize the elegance of the silhouette. Louis Purple shows us all his know-how here...
The jacket falls well in the back and the waist remains emphasized.
As you can see, the jacket has two panels: it is much more comfortable, in keeping with the influences of the piece. This also prevents the back of the jacket from "opening" for those with wider than average hips.
The armhole is deliberately high for more comfort as well.
Note from Luca: The jacket follows your movements thanks to the jersey, you are truly free to move in it. Putting your hands in your pockets is therefore possible, without any risk of deformation.
Sartorial finishes
No liner, no burr
With Louis Purple, we chose not to use any lining. It is a more expensive finish since it requires a clean and neat construction ; the lining often acts as a cover-up.
No lining on the jacket, so the construction of the jacket must be impeccable.
Still inside the jacket, we opted for a wide facing . It is a more advanced finish but also more expensive, since it requires the use of additional material. The armpits are reinforced by inserts called "salt shakers" , practical in case of unexpected sweating.
The famous salt shakers and the wider facing than usual, with the grain of the jersey clearly visible!
Horn buttons
All buttons used are made of horn .
You will find the kissing buttons on the sleeves
The “kissing buttons”, 100% horn.
Strong pockets
Small detail that will delight purists: the interior pockets are cut directly into the material (in the facing to be exact) and reinforced with half-moons to prevent tears.
The half-moons reinforce the highly stressed areas of the garment, delaying their wear.
In total, the jacket has five pockets : one exterior and one interior, on each side of the piece, plus the chest pocket for the pouch.
How to maintain an unstructured jacket?
Just like any other jacket!
Drop it off once a season at the dry cleaners, that will be more than enough.
Hang it on a hanger, taking care to unbutton it first.
How to choose your size ?
Nothing could be simpler, just take your usual size!
If you already own a BonneGueule blazer, you should obviously go for the same size , our sizing being identical to that of Louis Purple.
Our system is in numbers:
- The XS corresponds to 44,
- The S corresponds to 46,
- The M corresponds to 48,
- The L corresponds to 50,
- XL corresponds to 52,
- The XXL corresponds to 54.
How to wear an unstructured jacket?
Florian is inspired by the Italian DNA of the unstructured jacket : monk, high-cuffed flannel pants, cutaway collar... Wearing blue for the shirt and gray for the pants is an easy option to integrate the jacket; we take the colors again. In the midst of such soft tones, a tie in a bright shade is highlighted and brightens up the look. It stays in similar shades for the rest of her accessories, maintaining the coherence of her outfit. (Hast shirt - BonneGueule boutique exclusive, Sozzi Calze tie, MAISON F clutch, BonneGueule pants , Léon Flam bag, Septième Largeur shoes)
A herringbone jacket will highlight textured or knitted ties.
More simply, Luca pairs his jacket with a chambray shirt and beige chinos. Its outfit is harmonious, there is no particular difficulty. The casual dimension of the look is supported by the chambray and desert boots, and by the fluid line of the jacket. ( BonneGueule chambray shirt , Louis Purple chinos, Comme un Chaéléon belt, Bobbies desert boots)
He finally adds a wine clutch, a color that always goes with both gray and blue: remember the tip! (Hast pouch)
We find Florian in a more elegant look . The unstructured jacket lends itself well to chinos, both sharing this “casual elegance” side. The chevrons give an interesting mottled effect, giving relief to the whole. ( BonneGueule shirt , Gant Rugger clutch, BonneGueule flannel chinos, Septième Width derby)
A rich mix of contrasts!
Even Benoît gives in to the sirens of sprezzatura, look at the way his tie is tied: the two sides are slightly offset and stuck out to accentuate nonchalance, the same goes for his pocket square worn in “winged tips”. In addition, an unstructured jacket obviously goes well with jeans , the result being all the more interesting if it is already well faded. Enough to give Benoît a look full of determination. ( BonneGueule Kurabo jeans , Office Artist shirt, Cadot tie and pocket square)
A great classic of Italian style, it is no surprise that the jacket matches the white pants / navy sweatshirt combo. Like Luca, you can wear a t-shirt underneath to match the pants. Navy blue sneakers are a safe bet with this type of look, to be worn with invisible socks. On the way to the Marina (Muji T-shirt, Zapa sweatshirt, DeFursac pants, Garçonne & Chérubin sneakers)
Blue and gray being the pivotal colors of our wardrobe, the jacket will easily fit into your looks. Otherwise and given its origins, it is a piece that highlights and is highlighted by accessories. Ties, pocket squares, scarves, whatever you want! (Cinable collar pin)
How to get the BonneGueule x Louis Purple unstructured jacket?
The official launch is scheduled for this Sunday, April 10 at 2 p.m. (and the day before for members of the BonneGueule Program).
As usual, newsletter subscribers will receive the product page link shortly beforehand.
In any case, if you are in Paris, you can already come and try them this Saturday, April 9, in our Marais store .
For Lyonnais, you will be able to get it from Saturday also, in our pop-up store at 43, rue Auguste Comte in Lyon.
And for the others, register without further delay:
