You may have already passed by the Louis Purple boutique, 37 avenue des Ternes , wondering about the low prices that the brand offers.
When I discovered the brand, I myself was very surprised to see very well cut pieces in such beautiful materials.
I have always been very sensitive to well-defined sartorial universes, like SuitSupply which sells a lot thanks to its relaxed image and its very inspirational looks. I like to see that in a boutique, elegance is within everyone's reach , both in the price and in the approach. This is exactly what you find at Louis Purple.
The history of the Louis Purple brand: how can prices be so low?
Louis Purple is not just a simple clothing brand, it belongs to a large French group, which has been producing suits for brands around the world for 20 years.
Today, the group works with more than 200 clients in 32 different countries and produces an astronomical number of one million costumes per year .
As you will have understood, the group adapts to the demands of its customers by offering as many details as possible, with very strong industrialization power.
Louis Purple is the end of the chain of a vertically integrated company: it benefits from this manufacturing flexibility and applies it judiciously in its offer. It is therefore difficult to compete with this unbeatable quality/price ratio (I will talk about it below), especially during sales periods.
Where are Louis Purple products made?
For more than 20 years, the group has developed in Romania as well as in Ukraine, where it has only increased its know-how by pushing the details ever further. It is possible to find finishes or hand openings that you normally only find at large tailors.
The half-measure offer at Louis Purple
More and more of you want to try tailoring, and I don't mind! I am the first to say that it is difficult to find in France a brand offering half-measures that are not too expensive with a soul , a real one.
The choice of fabrics, cuts, shoulders, lapels and other details at French tailors are sometimes too limited, especially when the price is affordable. I even wondered why buy a half-measure suit when I could easily choose a perfect ready-to-wear one and give it a few alterations.
In half measures, it is fundamental that the customer feels that their costume is unique, which completely suits them.
As a reminder : in half measures, we adapt an already existing pattern to the client's morphology, unlike the large measure which constructs a pattern exclusive to the client. If you want to know more, Valéry details it very well in his Blandin & Delloye test .
The half-measures offer at Louis Purple is simple:
- For a two-piece semi-canvassed suit, count between 499 and 699 euros depending on the fabrics available in store,
- The three-piece suit starts at 659 euros,
- For traditional (or "complete") covering , simply add 150 euros.
As with all tailors, the greatest price variations depend on the fabric selected.
Fabrics offered in store
Louis Purple works with the world's largest spinning mills ; nothing, or almost nothing, limits you in your choice. To name a few: Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda, Dormeuil, Cerruti and many others.
You are free to choose your fabric from the 800 available at the workshop. Julien and Mathias will direct you to the most suitable fabric depending on the assembly you choose. On order, you will have the choice among more than 1,500 fabrics.
Allow on average three weeks from the first fitting to delivery of the suit for fabric available in the workshop , four for fabric directly ordered by the brand from the spinner.
It is even possible to bring your own fabric coupon, you just have to pay for it.
How to behave when taking measurements?
Even if Mathias and Julien from the Louis Purple store will advise you very well, there are a few rules to respect and not forget when taking your measurements.
During the first meeting , talk to your contact in store. Know that he is there to help you and make you as happy as possible, so confide in yourself, plan ahead, take it as a project. Talk to him about the suits you already have in your wardrobe, their fabrics, their buttons, their cuts... Anything that can make the advisor's work easier.
After selecting the fabric, here is the long-awaited moment of taking measurements, which will allow a suit to be adapted to your body shape. The most important tip here: relax .
In this photo, the famous Neapolitan tailor Luca Rubinacci and the blogger Fabio Attanasio.
A man's first instinct when he puts on a jacket is to stand as stiff as a rod. Unless this is the way you stand on a daily basis, the measurement should be done in the most natural posture possible, otherwise you risk ending up with folds in your back and chest once at the office.
When pinning the jacket, keep talking to the person taking your measurements, even the slightest feeling can help them satisfy you best.
When pinning the pants, place them at the waist yourself . You are the one who will wear it all day long, it would be a shame to end up with a waist that is too low or too high.
Remember that pants that sit well on your waist should be slightly higher in the back and lower in the front.
During the second appointment , you try on the costume for the first time. You can finally get an idea of the final result. Once again, report any discomfort. A retoucher, based in Paris, will take care of the final adjustments.
At the last meeting, you are supposed to collect your costume. Put on the costume one last time, this is where you validate the adjustments you have requested. If the suit is still stiff and it folds a little on the chest for example, know that this is normal (especially on semi-canvassed/canvassed), you need to wear it three to four times before it adapts to your body.
Let yourself be guided, these appointments are not the subject of an exact science. It is above all a human exchange!
Louis Purple half-measure three-piece suit test
I thought long and hard about my costume. My wardrobe contains three double-breasted suits, three single suits, vests and blazers, but I didn't have a three-piece suit.
I like this retro side of the three-piece suit : it is both easy to wear, very elegant, above all very socially comfortable (the vest clearly helps the silhouette) and brings a lot of confidence .
The choice of fabric
It all starts with inspiration! I recently watched The Wolf of Wall Street and clearly had an obsession with Matthew McConaughey and Leonardo Di Caprio's chalk stripes in the film. The famous banker costume .
The chalk stripe
I turned to Reda wool, Super 110's of 300 g , soft to the touch.
I was afraid of having a flannel that was too heavy, that I would not be able to wear during the sunny days that were coming. To my greatest surprise, the wool remains breathable and light.
The choice of fitting the jacket
Even if the pattern I chose is very English, I wanted to have a certain ease on the shoulders, for my jacket to have the most natural fit possible and, above all, to maintain a certain lightness. So I opted for semi-canvass, which for me is the perfect compromise between comfort and good fit.
The choice of shoulder
My biggest worry when I go to the tailor. It happened to me, in a half-measure store, to leave with Power Ranger shoulders, stuffed with padding
It is true that for some people, heavy padding can be life-saving and give you build. For me, I have a straight shoulder line, so I like to have a supple and natural shoulder.
At Louis Purple, you have the choice between a structured shoulder and a natural one (with Neapolitan inspirations). I'll let you guess which one is mine 😉
We can see some characteristic gathers which recall those of the Neapolitan shoulder .
Judge the freedom of movement a little.
The choice of backhands
We can see the famous tone-on-tone AMF stitching.
After the shoulder, it is the most important choice. This is what we see first .
It all depends on what you like. Personally, I hate the micro-setbacks that still invade major brands, our eyes are too used to them. You only have to go to England or Italy to realize that a good width of lapel only scares the French.
Here's what you're so used to seeing in stores.
To accompany you towards the exit of this famous "Slimane era
I'm really happy with these setbacks. I usually choose wide notch lapels but sports lapels are much more versatile. The roll is also well done, it gives volume and build.
The choice of vest
With Florian, we are used to wearing mismatched and straight cardigans. They make it easy to enhance an outfit and stand out (rare men wear a vest).
So right? crossed? Backhanded? Everything still depends on your desires and your tastes, but know that a vest should be chosen close to the body , nothing is more unpleasant than a vest floating under a jacket.
You often have a tightening tab at the back of the vest to adjust it as best as possible.
I opted for a double-breasted model with a shawl collar. On this type of fabric, you can afford a plunging neckline without risking overdoing it, the shirt and tie are well highlighted .
We never close the last button! Gutteridge tie.
Little sprezzatura tip: the vest is a good way to make the tie pop. With well-held tails between the shirt and the vest, shape your tie as you wish.
Gutteridge shirt, Boggi tie.
Avoid wearing a vest with a plunging neckline without a tie, it remains a dangerous exercise.
The choice of details and supplies
For the rest, let yourself be guided and trust your instinct. For my part, I chose:
- A ticket pocket, still very English detail.
- Marbled brown horn buttons, quite discreet.
- Reinforcement half-moons, which you will find on each pocket corner.
- High slits, for great comfort. Especially if you have a butt, high slits will allow more ease , especially when you put your hands in your pockets.
- As for the buttonholes, they are open, of course.
I have not photographed the inside of the jacket but please note that it is possible to choose a full lining, a semi-lining (no lining in the back), or an unlined jacket.
The more viscose, the easier it is to put on the jacket. Again, it's just a matter of taste and comfort.
Details of the Louis Purple pants
The pants are just as important as the jacket. Lots of details are offered to you at Louis Purple , feel free like a bird.
I didn't choose pleats so that I could also wear the pants in more casual outfits (with a sweater and white sneakers for example), but it's an option offered by the brand.
Scarosso shoes, in need of love and polish.
And the customization doesn't stop there, take a look:
- A clamping tab, functional and aesthetic . I find this is the type of detail that easily dresses up pants.
- A gusset pocket which, like the tightening tab, dresses up pants. It has the same purpose as the ticket pocket of a pair of jeans, that is to say storing a few coins (unless you are a fan of the pocket watch).
- Finally, I chose 5 cm lapels (which are not too high, for once).
The fit of the pants is perfect, no need for a belt to support them. In terms of cut, it's exactly what I was looking for: comfort while maintaining a beautiful fuselage.
My opinion on the Louis Purple semi-canvass suit
I'm really happy with this costume. Once again, I am impressed by the flexibility of the offer between the choice of fabrics, the finishes... I have worn it six times since delivery. The interlining has relaxed , the fit is less rigid than during the first fitting.
With the fabric and the vest, my costume cost 699 euros. Difficult to find better quality/price ratio on the market.
Testing the Louis Purple ready-to-wear offering
The unstructured wool jacket Alfredo Rodina
I didn't know the Alfredo Rodina spinning mill, I just know that it is based not far from the province of Biella
I was immediately attracted by the luminous side of the material. Indeed, in winter, it is rare to see such sunny wools in ready-to-wear fashion.
The heat-sealed construction allows for a fluid drape ; it is impossible to make an unstructured jacket with interlining. It is in this particular case that a good iron-on is appropriate.
I felt very comfortable from the first few wears, the lightness of the construction makes it feel like I'm not wearing anything.
As far as details and finishes are concerned, no surprises. As a half measure, you have:
- A light and flexible shoulder , you feel great freedom of movement. However, even if you lack build, the shoulder holds up well.
Also note that the tiles are well aligned.
- A generous setback, but not too much. 7.5 cm is, for me, the width that will reconcile everyone. Tone-on-tone stitching is also present to reinforce the sports jacket side.
- A beautiful barchetta, with the patterns still aligned.
- Patch pockets, to accentuate relaxation.
- And open buttonholes.
The buttons are plastic. They are quite beautiful but unfortunately are seen everywhere today.
- As for the interior, as with all lightweight models, there is no lining other than just a piece at the shoulders to keep the jacket in place as little as possible. So you can see everything that's going on inside: not placing a lining means perfect finishes. Here, everything is clean and tidy.
- Even if the jacket is not lined, you are entitled to a few pockets, including a pen pocket.
- Finally, a salt shaker is there to prevent the wool from being damaged by perspiration.
Which is properly dressed, too.
My opinion on the Louis Purple unstructured jacket
This jacket is comfortable from the first wear, which is really what I remember most about this test. At 349 euros, you are treating yourself to an effective product, which adapts to many body types.
Please note that many jackets and suits are available in store, with different constructions, ranging from heat-sealed to traditional canvas. For the latter, prices do not exceed 699 euros for ready-to-wear.
She is also easy to marry. Whether with chinos, jeans or even more formal pants, it's difficult to make stylistic mistakes.
Louis Purple beige chinos in cotton and elastane
I like semi-slim cuts
When it comes to feel, cotton has a fluffy quality that is pleasant when worn.
The most interesting thing about this piece remains the finishes and features , surprising for this price range:
- The contracted English, and a trim and clean interior. I salute the attention to detail with the little paisley pattern.
With a YKK zip.
- The comfort “V” at the back of the chinos, accompanied by its stopping point.
You can have a portion of prosciutto e funghi pizza.
- The ticket pocket.
- Customizable pocket bags, another nice detail that only the wearer can know.
My opinion on the Louis Purple chinos
For 89 euros, you have all the useful finishes on a chino so that it doesn't fall apart in your hands after a year.
I remember its comfort and versatility. Wear with tassel loafers (like here) as well as sneakers.
Tassel loafers Crockett and Jones.
Chambray shirt with cutaway collar
Personally, it's a type of collar that I love. I've seen a lot of it at Pitti and it's true that in France, cut from chambray, you simply don't find it.
It's really an imposing collar and as a result, you don't risk having a collar gap.
Regarding the material, chambray comes from Türkiye. It is pleasant to the touch and naturally supple, but ultimately remains quite basic considering the price of the shirt.
I opted for a slim fit cut (long enough to be worn inside the pants). Note that darts are present and will allow you to release a few centimeters at the bust level.
We're off for the final inspection of the item! For details and finishes, we find:
- Buttons sewn crosswise,
Plastic but at this price, you can't expect better.
- Reinforcement swallows,
- And gathers on the wrist.
My opinion on the cutaway collar chambray shirt
Certainly, Turkish chambray does not have the cachet that an Italian chambray could have but quite frankly, for 69 euros, you have a beautiful shirt, well cut, with an imposing collar.
My opinion on Louis Purple
Used to SuitSupply and home deliveries, I was really happy to finally find a brand with Italian influences in Paris. I think very clearly that this is the best quality/price/style ratio for tailoring in France.
For Parisians, don't hesitate to take a look at the store, there's no shortage of choice. The outfit I tested will only give you a small idea, there really is something for everyone.
Apart from the large choice of suits and jackets, you will find shoes made in Naples (which often arrive white and are carefully patinated by Julien in store), fine knits to slip under jackets, down jackets (with or without sleeves) casual, and a selection of shirts that will turn heads.
If you can't go to the store, an e-shop seems to be in the pipeline, so be patient!
And for a little confidence, given that I really loved the Italian influences of the brand, and its Q/P ratio, a joint project between BonneGueule and Louis Purple is in progress but I won't tell you any more, you will be informed in the coming weeks 😉
