They say that “clothes do not make a monk”. Wanting to trust this old adage can seem contradictory when it is a half-measure suit that we are going to see; tailor who, a priori, should dress you.
However, this is what happened to me with the Blandin & Delloye brand. I admit that I left with little confidence, particularly because of its lookbook : ultra-thin lapels, a few unsightly creases... However, the accessible and technically relevant offer convinced me to give it a try.
The result was the opposite extreme of the lookbook : clean, sober and timeless.
Blandin & Delloye: history of the brand and reminders of half-measures
Cédric and Charles met at ISTEC, a business school in Paris. Cédric then trained in project management in a Master's degree at ESC Rouen; Charles studied innovation at the Sorbonne.
During a trip to Asia, they had several tailor-made suits made. The result is satisfactory, then they finance several trips by offering this service to their friends.
The idea was there. Cédric and Charles decide to get started for real, leaving nothing to chance. They spend several years training and building a network with real experts who have been in the clothing industry for several generations.
Previously based at the coworking space Le Gymnase , for a little over a year they have had a boutique in Réaumur, well representative of the idea we have of tailoring.
With Chesterfields, whiskey tasting in a cozy, wooded setting.
The steps are characteristic of half measures:
- First appointment: after explaining what you want, the tailor takes the measurements. You then try on basic patterns in your size. It is from them that Cédric and Charles make adjustments which will take your body shape into account.
- This is the whole point of half-measures, because your body shape is often more original than you think: shoulder lower than the other, posture not very straight, strange knee height and so on. Here, this step was particularly careful,
- Last classic step, we choose the fabrics and finishes. You have a nice range of possibilities (buttons, collars, pockets, etc.), but we will be able to call you to order if you try to make yourself the Joker costume to go to work in a bank.
- Second appointment: first fitting which allows for final adjustments,
- Third appointment: normally, your costume is ready, without any problems.
From the notion of tailor-made
You will have understood, the semi-traditional and the traditional are respectively semi-canvassed and fully canvassed. It is extremely rare, with half-measure suits, for the price of the fabrics to be distinct from that of the garment and to have such transparency.
It also allows you, if you have the opportunity, to go hunting for your own fabrics, and possibly make some savings on this item ( Dormeuil sometimes has private sales, for example).
Blandin and Delloye offer fabrics like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda, Marzotto and Dormeuil. The Elite range includes Holland & Sherry.
Tailor-made and half-measure
If it is marked “Custom made”, it is in reality half-measure. Charles has a very precise vision of the question and will give you an excellent reminder.
Small clarification to make, be careful not to confuse the terms "artisanal" and "traditional" . An artisanal assembly is done by hand, in the small tailor's workshop; as opposed to industrial assembly, carried out in a factory.
A traditional assembly designates a level of quality, especially in terms of covering. it can be done both in a factory and in a small workshop.
- The half-measure: it is above all a matter of working on an already existing basic pattern, we modify it to adapt it to the client's morphology. The costume is then assembled in the factory, and not in an artisanal manner.
- The small measure: taking measurements and working on the pattern are the same. On the other hand, the assembly is carried out in an artisanal manner.
- the big measure: we start from scratch to create a pattern entirely for you, the assembly is then artisanal.
If Blandin & Delloye use the term "made-to-measure" when their tailoring is in fact "half-measure", it is simply because most people still think that half-measure is only half-measure. ready-to-wear with alterations.
The possibilities of half measures
Shoulders : we offer you either British shoulders, with a more pronounced cigarette ; or Roman shoulders, natural but structured.
Also, some users of the En Grande Pompe forum were able to order a Neapolitan-style jacket made without lining - but without the famous spalla camicia - and have it at the same price as the heat-sealed one.
Some fabrics are quite original, like this mohair wool that Charles suggested to a user of the En Grande Pompes forum:
The choice is really vast , and the style is not limited to what you have seen in the brand's lookbook .
A very fashionable positioning with these ultra-thin lapels, fortunately it does not completely define the brand.
Blandin and Delloye costume test
I opted for a traditional assembly (i.e. fully canvassed ), with a range of intermediate fabric. It is still a nice summer Vitale Barberis Canonico in Super 120's .
By going to Blandin & Delloye, the goal was to avoid falling into the fashionable flaws of the costumes visible on their lookbook, in order to show that you can also obtain a classic and timeless result with great know-how.
So I went with a double-breasted suit (my first!), with a 6×2 closure. The width of the lapels was crucial, the ideal is generally to reach halfway to the shoulder. They are 9 cm here - exactly what you need - and they are sharp, since notch lapels on a double-breasted suit do not exist.
The rest follows a very British, almost austere line ; a Roman shoulder , flap pockets and a ticket pocket . It is above the other pocket located at the waist, and contains change and tickets. It is a pocket very characteristic of the British style. A classic hem to the pants. The only originality: the double-breasted jacket is a little shorter and more fitted than normal.
Disclaimer : A double-breasted suit is not worn like a two-button suit , here are some basic recommendations:
- do not button the two buttons of the 6×2 closure. This is not prohibited - this is what Prince Charles does - but such wearing is clearly less permissive to maintain a good fit
- hands in pockets on a very fitted suit, which causes everything to ride up and often leads to a collar gap
Photo credits: David Benguigui
The general fit
We are on a good business suit cut: neither too fitted nor too wide. I deliberately asked for the jacket to be a little shorter than usual for a double-breasted suit, without falling into bad taste:
A rather slender silhouette, but not too fitted either (we're looking at a business-oriented striped double-breasted suit, not The Kooples)
Unlike a two-button suit, you never open the jacket of a double-breasted suit while sitting down. This type of construction is made to always stay perfectly in place.
Even seated, very few creases, a jacket that fits well and zero gaps.
The details that matter
Sleeve opening and length, back and shoulder: these are fit details that can make or break the overall look of a suit. Blandin&Delloye did not miss it.
The opening of the sleeves is clean: shirt and suit were made in half-measure at Blandin&Delloye. Everything is done to have the sacrosanct centimeter of sleeve sticking out without too much hassle.
A very clean shoulder head, with very few creases: my shoulders fill it out really well.
An impeccable back.
The fabric
The Vitale Barberis Canonico summer fabric takes the light well, in the shade as well as in full sun and can still be worn at the beginning of November:
Beautiful fluidity in movement.
A very good result in full sun.
Very few creases and a very satisfactory fit by only closing the top button.
Blandin & Delloye being a semi-measured tailor with a very accessible register, I put together an outfit that remains in this positioning. I opted for oxford shoes from Velasca and a Blandin&Delloye tie. The shirt also comes from Blandin & Delloye, which offers some pretty nice ones in addition to the suit offering.
The thickness of the stripes is different enough that they can be combined without becoming an optical illusion. The herringbone tie allows you to add a little worked texture.
To stay in a sober register, we stuck to a shades of blue, without inserting pockets, which can be more delicate to carry in a strictly business register where they are more reserved for senior positions.
Dissection of the half-measure costume Blandin and Delloye: #stitchporn
Obviously, we are not just going to be satisfied with a good cut: the quality of the tailoring must follow. So I dissected the costume as it should be, to show you its seams in very close-up .
Photo credits: myself.
The finishes of the jacket
Clean Milanese lapels, not a thread sticks out.
The buttonhole is functional. I think it is possible to use the famous kissing buttons, but I opted for a more British style.
Slanted chest pocket.
The inside of the jacket
There are ticket pockets, flap pockets and smartphone pockets, all with half-moon seams to reinforce the assembly.
I'm a little austere on the outside, but uncontrollable on the pocket piping #wild
Another flap pocket with half-moon stitching, plus the fabric I chose.
We also find the essential salt shaker, to protect the fabric from perspiration and friction.
The finishes of the pants
The pants also have many quality finishes: double button placket, pin buckle, underseat, buttoned piped pockets with half-moon stitching, pockets with bar tacks, V-shaped (or "English") and Breakpoint.
The barb that holds the belt in place.
Inside: double-breasted and clean bottom, with the V comfort reinforced by a bartack.
At the back, the buttoned pockets are reinforced with half-moon stitching.
Side pockets, with a stop point at the top and bottom.
My opinion on the Blandin & Delloye brand
I had difficulty understanding what could differentiate Blandin & Delloye from other Parisian tailors.
Their credo is above all value for money , this is something that you can only realize after having received and worn your costume, or even after having dissected the finishes of another costume already made.
For me, the contract has been largely fulfilled. I invite you to stop by JamaisVulgaire to test the shirt :)
