After setting the scene and presenting the history, style and little adventures of the Versace company, it is high time to get to the heart of the matter. What makes Versace such a unique house? But above all, since we are talking about luxury and virtuosity, what is this based on? I suggest you discover it now.
How did Gianni Versace build his House on exceptional craftsmanship?
A die-hard approach to luxury and Haute-Couture
The Versace have an extremely demanding concept of luxury. For Gianni, as for Donatella today, a fashion show must be a demonstration of force, a moment where people are amazed.
But be careful, there is no question of being satisfied with golden details and massive prints: to get noticed, the family of designers only relies on virtuoso and exceptional constructions.
It's NEVER finished, and you have to work on the garment until the last second, even when it's worn by the model. Given the measurements, we will admit that there are worse conditions...
Here, glamor and sensuality are worn with pride and confidence, whether you are a man or a woman. Lovers of fine craftsmanship marvel at this ability to sculpt the body into asymmetries of unfathomable complexity, witnessing prodigious work in its subtlety and meticulousness.
Luigi Massi, at the head of the Maison's workshop, has been coveted for years by all the major couture brands. Trained by Gianni himself , he has the reputation of simply being able to do everything! And each Haute-Couture collection seems to prove it.
Luigi Massi is this great guy. Forgive the quality, this is a person who doesn't really let his photo be taken...
Don't blame me: sometimes we'll talk about women's pieces in this section. It is indeed for these ladies that the workshops of the Milanese House were the most extraordinary. From a technical and “fashion culture” point of view, I think it’s really interesting to dwell on it. And I have given you at the very end of the article a lot of references to find recent collections, to see or rewatch.
The men's suit: an art perfectly mastered by Versace
Two photos taken in 1989.
Versace very early on combined women's lines with men's lines. He was one of those precursors who favored extremely massive suit cuts, with oversized straight shoulders .
The house has long been renowned for its tailoring expertise, wonderfully embodying the excesses of Italian fashion. Extremely vibrant colors, gold metal details and massive prints honor this opulent print! The workshop has many master tailors , who created some of the most emblematic pieces of the 80s.
1989 and 1995.
However, as we have seen, the Medusa company has also evolved towards other more "neutral" pieces, but whose production is still as exceptional; like these two black suits.
The first combines a tuxedo style and a tailcoat , the second plays on an oversized collar that is really very Italian. Incidentally, I find that the ultra-colorful baroque prints of the first model enhance the black, and vice versa...
The last piece, more recent, embodies the spirit of this new decade. The suit is made from cashmere cloth, with a 2-button double-breasted cut and flap pockets. He is especially adorned with an embossed leather vest (never seen elsewhere).
An impeccable achievement: technicality is at the service of innovation in leather work, all forming a remarkable outfit without superfluous. It's not easy for everyone !
A revolutionary invention: the Oroton metal mesh
Gianni Versace has always had a particular attraction to crystal, gold and metal. For all that shines in short, true to the style of Calabria. However, although he produced a men's collection including knitwear in 1982, this type of material proved to be far too rigid and hardly compatible with his sculptural conception of women's fashion.
He will therefore, with a German craftsman, work to develop a material combining the suppleness of silk and the unique texture of metal, in order to design the very sensual pieces for which he has the secret. This is how the “metal mesh” called Oroton was born in 1982.
The technique consists of assembling small metal discs together without connecting them, by attaching them at 4 points to a metal mesh. The fluidity of the material gives this very special feeling that the body is adorned with a liquid metal.
In addition to having created an absolutely unique material , Versace will go even further by working it like any other fabric , ignoring the difficulties of assembly and demonstrating a sense of exceptional craftsmanship.
The first piece and the second date from 97, the third from the mid-80s... All, 100% metal: surreal.
Little explanation of what you see. It begins with a highly sculptural dress, adored by the press around the world: it is the first time that Gianni Versace has gone this far in cutting the Oroton .
The second model - another textbook case - presents the embroidered "metal mesh" (!!!) to form these Byzantine crosses .
Finally, the last dress plays on colors to draw a slightly psychedelic geometric pattern but, once again, the technicality of such work is exemplary: it was still necessary to print, so to speak, the pattern. ..
The campaign with Prince dates from summer 96, and the other look comes from the Fall - Winter 2010 collection. Note on the left the neckline running on the blazer from top to bottom.
The Italian designer will often use crystals, perfect for designing extremely colorful harlequin or baroque patterns, as we saw above. The Versace style is not really what we call an example of sobriety or modesty, as you will have understood.
However, when we see the work behind it, we are clearly light years away from easy bling bling. There will be some variations for men of Oroton, very anecdotally because it is not a really... masculine material!
And by the way, look at the cuts... The perfectly executed dress/pants fusion, and the sculptural openwork bust are impressive.
For winter 2014-2015, the Haute-Couture collection of the Atelier Versace line (different from the ready-to-wear collections) gave birth to a new material, derived from Oroton.
This time, it is no longer a question of metal, but of crystal : developed with Swarowski, it is an ultra-fluid material, onto which very fine shards of crystal are projected, called "dust" in the technical description that I was able to obtain. Thus, we once again find this alliance between the brilliance of the stone and the voluptuous lightness of the fabric .
Bias cut and asymmetrical constructions: the unique signature of Versace
Let's start with a model made from Japanese denim, very finely embroidered with gold stripes. Structure is provided by a “belt” of pearl and metallic (laminated) leather, with a drape of silk to draw out the asymmetry.
There are barely a few creases, despite numerous bias cuts, and a superb play of texture between the matte of the denim, the satin effect of the silk and the shine of the gold.
The second is inspired by the world of tailoring and corseting. The crystal-encrusted fasteners are unclipped to reveal a bustier comparable to embroidered lingerie...
We are completely in the sexy "femme fatale" spirit of Versace, and we must recognize that a woman dressed like this - although the probability that we come across one around a street corner remains tiny - must actually provoke some "emotions"! Note in passing the superbly executed tailored shoulders.
This third piece is a masterpiece. At the bottom, thousands of beads create geometric patterns while respecting the lightness of the fabric.
The bust is almost essentially composed of fine silver chains: sometimes braided then sewn to stiffen the whole, sometimes relaxed to evoke the movement of a drape. It deserves to end up in a museum, the work done is colossal.
Finally, the last creation is undoubtedly the most astonishing, running through the body with curves made of embroidered fishnets, pearls and silk caddy. Imagine the mastery it takes to design such pieces, openwork here and there, and using for some materials created just for a collection.
Please note: the back is just as elaborate: regulars know, you should ALWAYS look at the back of a Versace piece!
The models presented all come from the Haute-Couture line, but Versace also offers its talents for sculptural asymmetry in ready-to-wear! Small illustration before discussing leather work.
Mesh rib lined with leather, crystal mesh applied to silk caddy, silk chiffon embroidered at the top with silver chains, and coated silk structured with vinyl strips. Ready-to-wear, therefore...
An ultra-sharp sense for making skins
A campaign for the summer of 1982.
Very early on (from his beginnings), Gianni Versace showed an interest in leather . He has always sought to work this material like a fabric, and therefore to circumvent the difficulties linked to the thickness of the skin.
With good suppliers and an extremely talented workshop, the Italian designer ended up succeeding in his bet, making daring jackets and other very fluid leather combinations, even playing on draping effects as if they were a cloth.
See this blue jacket whose generous volumes, although controlled, make the leather react like a fabric; an impression comparable to that one gets when observing the combinations in the second photo.
Take a good look at the suit of the man on the far left, in the image on the right: you will notice that the leather is pleated at the belt like an elastic material, which did not exist at the time.
Even in the "new era" Versace, leather retains a place of choice , especially in men's collections. For this model, we finely topstitched it so as to evoke a car grille: I had this piece in my hands, impressed by the precision of the embroidery and assembly work, particularly at the armholes.
Despite the expected rigidity, I was extremely surprised by the comfort and ease provided by this exceptional piece.
Now let's look at this perfecto. We have a very smooth texture - while the model is moving - and a very fine grain. The extremely clear curve of the shoulders, although padded, is astonishing.
Below, the red leather pants take up the know-how developed in the early days of the brand, to achieve a lightness and finesse once again similar to that of a fabric. Effect that you can see up close on the pleated pants right next to it. Yes yes, it's leather...
Here is now the most challenging dress from the ready-to-wear collection presented in February 2010. It has been mended countless times all'ultimo secondo , and little hands had a hard time adjusting it to the mannequin (changed at the last moment) for a close-fitting effect...
The reason ? Those shiny inserts you see are pieces of laminated leather, effectively reminiscent of metal. Tangled between striated fabric and metal rings, they create a superb geometric pattern.
Finally, last convincing example with a very structured jacket. The shoulders are made of angular lambskin panels assembled with punches.
On the sides and back of the jacket, we find dozens of thin strips of skin stretched between small metal chains whose shine you can guess... Not to mention the officer collar and the two superimposed closures.
And finally, these pieces are far from being importable. Bold and impressive, yes, they are noticeable, but in the best possible way.
The result in the store: very well made products, with luxurious details and finishes... but often fragile
The button of a military coat purchased 3 years ago, very finely chiseled to outline the medusa decorated with a Greca frieze.
To finish, a brief review of a few articles from the brand, just to move from theory to practice! It is also about showing what makes the luxury of the brand mentioned in this article, and its very keen eye for detail.
In fact, Versace has always manufactured its entire first line in Italy, which allows it to remain close to a highly qualified workforce, accustomed to the worst technical eccentricities.
The staff in the store have always been really pleasant... it must be said that, unlike other brands that are kings of turnover , Versace has many very loyal sales advisors, some of whom have been there for more than 20 years.
Not all that super masculine, we agree!
Versace lambskin "biker" jacket - Spring/Summer 2010
I really fell for a sober but sophisticated cut, marked by beautiful details: numerous pockets, officer collar, shoulder yokes... The execution is absolutely impeccable : extremely regular seams, YKK zip and puncture-proof Fiocchi snaps, dipped leather always extremely soft and pleasant...
After 5 years, this excellent quality skin (like all the skins in this line) has a wonderful patina: see in the first photo the nuances of color, reflections and texture in the sun, marking the experience of this beautiful skin.
All the pockets - zipped or flap, interior or exterior - are lined with a strip of leather or braided, but with the same skin as that used to make the jacket: looking for your card in your pocket is extremely pleasant...
To finish on this piece, note the chiseled pressure of the Greca frieze, of subtle and refined finesse. The collar buckle also represents the Greek key, the House's flagship motif, but in a very discreet way too. Who said Versace is all about bling?
I saw, for the women's collection, even more advanced work that the sellers call "jewelry closures", sometimes gold and encrusted with crystals.
The only downside : the fragility of the skin, linked to its color. The theme of the Spring/Summer 2010 collection included a palette of colors taken from the desert, hence this rather unique sand shade.
Diving is the noblest finish of leather, enhancing the texture and quality of the skin. In practice , this forces me to be extremely vigilant whenever I wear this piece. A drop of water, a not-freshly-washed hand or contact with a plant can quickly leave a mark. Fortunately , the patina of the leather makes it lose its homogeneity and blurs potential stains.
Versace red cotton jersey "sport" polo shirt - Spring/Summer 2011
I like wearing polo shirts, it's nothing new, and I really appreciated the slightly silky material of this model. It is worn close to the body and creates a pretty build. The color is particularly suitable for summer, and the concrete gray bands on the collar and sleeves give it a slightly sporty look.
The Medusa has the advantage of not really being a logo and few people associate it with Versace, unless they know the brand well.
First of all, the collar has an absolutely perfect fit thanks to its well-made ribbing, it shows. The buttons are 100% palladium metal , engraved with Versace but this is not visible: this is the only time that I have had the opportunity to come across buttons in this material, which ennobles the product in my opinion.
Finally, the Medusa on the chest is "shaded" to give it a slightly blurred look. No print here, or even a pre-sewn then glued logo. Here we have very fine work, carried out in two stages :
- First, the weave of the jersey is worked, not only with red thread, but with anthracite gray thread. This is what allows this very fine shadow effect,
- Then the Medusa is embroidered on top. Here again, a high technicality that I have not seen elsewhere on a "simple" polo shirt...
Downside : the material is pleasant to wear, very thin... but very fragile. Even when washing by hand, I can tell that the jersey tends to shrink, and the slightest tear will not be forgiven.
Continental format wallet in Versace eel leather - Classic model without season purchased in summer 2012
Like many of you, I have the practical little wallet that you slip into your back pocket, the one that gets you through difficult and improbable moments! I wouldn't part with it for anything in the world, but I also wanted, some time ago, to have another more noble and refined wallet, suitable for a more elegant wardrobe (especially suits).
I didn't expect to find this at Versace but, as you see, we are on an extremely sober and refined model thanks to the use of eel leather, enhanced with a fine line of engraved metal.
Inside , we find very soft and supple lambskin, perfect for adapting to cards, with a very pleasant touch. It also patina, bends and even scratches sometimes, which gives it character. Note the very solid and regular seams.
The coin pocket closes by pulling on a thin folded leather tab, sewn and waxed on the edge. If you look closely "under" the closure, you will be able to see a strip of leather sewn to "stiffen" the zip to make it easier to open.
Finally, seen up close, eel leather reveals its unique texture, always slightly pleated in its center . And always very fine, almost invisible stitching, evidence of careful and rigorous work.
Downside : eel leather, due to its fineness, is subject to scratches and marks. So I had to find a soft fabric cover, to use when stored with other objects in a shoulder bag or briefcase.
And that's the gangsta chain that Benoît thought about buying. True story, seen with my eyes!
This time, I think we've done the trick. I really hope you enjoyed this article! It was long, but as I said in the intro, the House of Versace is much richer, noble and respectful than one might think. Especially in France. And if I was able to even slightly change your perception of the brand, then mission accomplished 😉
For those who want to see a little more, I'll provide you with some links to videos or collection shoots that I mentioned, and which are "worth" seeing:
Man
Fall-Winter 2010-11 (to see, work with leather and black): in image / in video
Fall-Winter 2011-12 (modern tailoring): in pictures / in video
Spring - Summer 2015 (embroidery work): in image / video
Fall - Winter 2015-16 (cashmere galore): in pictures / in video
Women
Fall-Winter 2012-13 PAP (knitted dresses):in video
Fall-Winter 2013-14 PAP (working with vinyl, usually an unmanageable material): in video
Fall Winter 2014-2015 HC (exceptional female tailoring): on video
Spring-Summer 2015 HC (sculptural asymmetries): in video
Questions, comments in comments, don't hesitate! Cheers
