Cover source: Crockett&Jones
For this summer, I am offering you a series of eight articles where I will discuss:
- On the one hand, four pieces that many men
worn instinctively, without asking too many questions but whose stylistic interest is not as strong as one might think. - On the other hand, four pieces that few men wear but which have a lot of style and which are not that difficult to appropriate.
In any case, my goal will be to help you go a little further in terms of style.
See the other episodes:
As you probably know, the brogue is a formal and perfectly tailored shoe
But then, why bring it up in this series of articles?
What bothers me a little is the idea that some people may have about it, especially newbies.
A beautiful object. But what could we possibly blame you for? Carmine
The way it is sometimes perceived, chosen, worn 🤔👞
In the messages I read, the brogue is seen as a magical instrument that has the ability to instantly make a man elegant.
Moreover, it is not elegance that is most often in question, but class :
I find that the term class echoes a slightly more superficial vision of style, which focuses on symbolism more than on the clothing itself.
On the contrary, I find that the notion of elegance refers to something more personal: someone who is elegant is someone who has their own tastes , who constructs their outfits as a harmonious whole and who does not cares little (or little) about what each item of clothing represents in itself.
The problem is when the brogue is seen for what it represents more than for what it is.
To continue this idea of wanting classy shoes, men often choose brogues with a fairly tapered shape.
And we can understand the reasons for this choice: this is how we find it and see it most often.
From a style point of view, shoes with an elongated shape
The other big style question posed by the brogue is:
“Can I wear my brogues with casual pants?”
I answered this question in a dedicated article which you will find here .
To summarize, although there are exceptions, the answer is rather no: jeans or chinos do not go with classic, dark, smooth leather brogues .
You have really casual pants on one side and really formal shoes on the other: the formality gap between the two is too big.
The temptation is there but the result unfortunately does not always live up to our expectations. Jules&Jenn
The alternatives 💡
We will now look at the rather dressy (but not too much) alternatives to the brogue allowing you to bring richness, depth and personality to your looks.
1. Derby, all types
I think more men should wear derbies.
As men's wardrobe tends to become more and more relaxed, this shoe, more casual than the brogue, has its place in a wardrobe in my opinion.
It is also rather reassuring in its shape, not so far from that of the brogue.
As a reminder, the difference between a brogue (oxford in English) and a derby.
There are all kinds of them. The more visually loaded the shoe is
I advise you to look in particular:
Dark-colored derby, smooth leather, straight toe
In my opinion, it is the good alternative to the classic brogue.
It is formal enough to be worn with a suit while being a little less formal than the brogue.
Two derbies similar in spirit but very different in style. On the left (Carmina), it's much dressier than on the right (Velasca).
The so-called “half-chase” derby
It is characterized by a plateau seam at the front.
Its appearance is more divisive, its style a little more rural.
The sleek shape allows this Septième Width pair to remain on a certain level of formality.
The brogue derby
We stay in a country style with the brogue which is characterized by a flowered toe and perforations surrounding the shoe more or less strongly.
The more perforations there are, the more relaxed the shoe.
There are different types of brogues which have been detailed here .
In the BonneGueule collection , this is a so-called “full brogue” derby.
The buckled shoe
Yes, the buckle shoe is a type of derby.
Here, I'm thinking more of the double buckle shoe, which was once out of date and which has seen a new lease of life, notably thanks to Pitti Uomo where we see a lot of shoes of this type, sometimes in more daring colors.
The double buckle shoe has therefore (re)become pleasing to our eyes and can be worn in a formal manner, rather in a dark color:
And it can also fit into more casual looks, especially in lighter colors:
Norse Projects jeans, double Cheaney buckles
Its little sister, the single buckle shoe, has not experienced this renewed interest and has retained a somewhat austere image.
2. The moccasin
While more men should wear derbies because they are a reassuring and stylistically interesting option, the moccasin is an ideal choice for the daring man.
The two main types of moccasins are:
The penny loafer
This is the most classic moccasin, with a platform at the front and an attached piece of leather.
It's a much more versatile shoe than you might think.
Chosen dark as below, it goes with rather formal outfits (a suit) and also more casual ones (with jeans or chinos).
The tassel loafer
“pompom” or “tassel” moccasins, in French.
It's more preppy in style. The point is stronger: the pompoms tend to catch the eye, to catch the eye.
The moccasin is therefore the shoe of those who want to go further than the pejorative connotations that surround it.
Whoever feels that a moccasin can be relevant to complete a classic outfit:
The one who also sees his stylistic potential in much more casual looks:
Indulge. Who knows what could happen?
3. The chukka boot
I wasn't really planning to talk about boots here.
Although Balmoral , Chelsea or Jodhpur can be worn with a suit, they are still quite different shoes
But after reflection, I can clearly see a type of boot that has its place here: the chukka, because it is only mid-cut and is therefore close to a low shoe in its aesthetic.
Chukka boot in grained leather Crockett&Jones
We don't think of it spontaneously and I don't think many of you who read us have any.
However, it is a shoe that fits in with the other proposals by positioning itself as rather formal but not too formal.
Daniel Craig wears Crockett&Jones chukkas with his Tom Ford suits in his role as James Bond. I'm thinking in particular of the train scene in Skyfall . I find the association successful.
The chukka is more formal thanks to its more slender shape and its leather or even rubber sole. The desert is more relaxed with its rounder shape and crepe sole. We told you the history of desert boots in a dedicated guide .
The final word
To remember :
- Be careful not to confuse the notions of class and elegance.
- Do not wear elongated shoes with tight-fitting pants.
- There are many alternatives to the brogue, more or less formal, more or less strong in terms of style.
To find out all our recommendations for dress shoe brands, click here .
I am of course at your disposal in the comments if you are looking for leather shoes and you have hesitations about which model to choose.
