Test: the truth about Louboutin shoes

I can see your eyes widen from here: “What? Louboutin on BonneGueule? ". For many, Louboutin shoes effectively come down to two possibilities:

• Pumps with dizzying curves for women,

• Eccentric sneakers for men.

Benoit's disclaimer: I won't hide the fact that I was perplexed when Rafik came to me with the firm intention of doing an article on Louboutin, because it's obviously the kind of brand that we never deal with at BonneGueule. The fault is very high prices which border on the entry level of Berlutti, Corthay or Aubercy... but which are aimed at very different clienteles. Too expensive, too flashy, too publicized, it's a brand where it's easy to point out its faults.

Except that I never found content/articles that deciphered the product, and only the product. No one seems to have thought about the intrinsic quality of Louboutin shoes for men. They are nowhere analyzed and observed. I told Rafik:

" Rafik, I have no affinity with the brand, but you have piqued my curiosity. Everyone talks about it, but ultimately, no one dissects the product. I want to understand its offer, its shoes and their assembly. Show me what's under the hood!

But I also noticed something else... He wanted to go further than a simple product "test".

Rafik quickly showed a special bond with this brand, which went well beyond the “value for money” prism. And that intrigued me, so I wanted him to develop his thoughts on this brand, as much criticized as it is adored, which divides crowds, even among women ( testimony taken at random ).

A big thank you to Louboutin who completely played the game, lending us new pairs , and giving us total freedom of tone. For a caliber brand, this is rare enough to be highlighted.

So I give the floor to Rafik, and you will see that he gave of himself 😉

For my part, I discovered the brand at the start of adolescence thanks to the series Sex & The City ( K-2000 wasn't really my thing ), where I was particularly struck by the creativity found in each pair worn by the heroine. Today there is a complete range for men, and we are seeing more and more people wearing red soles.

Louboutin is also one of its brands whose reputation has been built largely through a few clients benefiting from strong exposure, de facto benefiting the brand ( Jennifer Lopez, if you read us ). This is truly a textbook case in terms of marketing based on celebrity wear (I’ll come back to this below).

Its hype side, the multiplicity of styles offered (sometimes widely criticized) and its high prices can make the offer difficult to decipher. The Louboutin universe can sometimes seem opaque, made up of so many elements that we no longer know where to start.

However, the arguments of the detractors are numerous. According to them, the models worn by celebrities of all kinds tarnish the "luxury" side of the brand, which would give in to the vulgar with large reinforcements of 16 cm heels. Its red sole would only be a sign of belonging, an external token of wealth. Probably the other side of the coin for having such a high-profile image. 

Besides that, I knew of Christian Louboutin his exceptional work on certain productions. An example: in 2002, Yves Saint Laurent retired and organized the largest Haute-Couture fashion show in the history of his House. He will call on Christian Louboutin to create the shoes that will complement his dresses.

So many elements that make understanding the Louboutin universe even more difficult! I then set out to decipher it: where does the man behind the brand come from? What does Louboutin offer? Is the offer limited to overexposed bling sneakers? Is the shoemaking worth the price? And besides, how can we explain this price?

You will also see that Louboutin wearers have a very particular relationship with their shoes, quite different from what we usually see. I went to meet them to understand what appealed to them so much. Is it just a matter of quality or style? Or is there a more psychological explanation for this attachment?

I carried out my investigation, we left for the truth test.

Story of Christian Louboutin, the man behind red gold

Its first weapons: women's shoes

It all started when a Christian Louboutin, still a teenager, visited the National Museum of African and Oceanian Arts, where a sign told tourists to be careful not to scratch the floor with their stiletto heels. This one really intrigued him – “how can you deprive a woman of heels?” » – so much so that from that moment on, he started designing shoes.

He then joined a vocational high school specializing in couture, but he quickly dropped out: Louboutin frequented the decadent nights of Paris in the 80's, which prevented him from being diligent. In 1982 came an internship with Charles Jourdan , one of the fathers of today's pumps, followed by several freelance missions for different Houses.

A decisive meeting

The designer's pivotal meeting was that of Roger Vivier in 1988, one of the greatest shoe designers of our time. The latter took Louboutin under his wing, teaching him his knowledge, notably the sense of form.

Not yet having the ambition to create his own brand, Louboutin then crossed the Atlantic to become… a landscaper. “Nothing to do with fashion,” you will tell me, except that he draws from it a particular vision of color that he will later reuse in his work.

It was in 1991 that the Louboutin adventure took a new turn, when he created his eponymous company and opened his first boutique in Paris.

At the origin of the trademark, Christian Louboutin has just received one of his first models. He finds that the black sole has the effect of a sledgehammer, which he breaks by grabbing his assistant's red Chanel nail polish. It's 1992.

Note from Benoit: the most curious among you will know that Louboutin red is Pantone color 18-1663 TPX... And some private collections of Louboutin fans are impressive!

Louboutin and men's shoes

The House's first men's shoes were created at the request of singer Mika, who wanted shoes for his tour. Finding the exercise amusing, Louboutin decided to create a first line in 2012. On this subject, he said:

I like details, I have always liked objects. So I see men's shoes as something where there has to be detail. And it's funny, because it also comes from the fact that I saw the men, who accompanied their wives, buying shoes... And they looked, they were attentive to the details.

The man is therefore still a recent page for Louboutin, but the offer proposed is no less broad for all that.

No matter the type of shoes, from sneakers to moccasins, you will find both sober models and other stronger ones, including the emblematic "spikes" that he will use extensively for shoes. male models... and who will trigger the first criticisms.

Note from Benoit: let's be clear, consider these shoes as evening shoes, in the same way as women's pumps. It is aimed at a clientele who needs to stand out in the evening, faced with a riot of glitter and celebrities. This nuance is important.

Same observation on the sneaker side. However, we note a real plurality of materials and a certain effort on colors. That said, they unleash passions. Although many US celebrities wear them (note from Benoit: David Guetta poses with Louboutin sneakers for the image of his legendary album Nothing But The Beat) , they are often pilloried for their bling-bling side.

Note Benoit: to place yourself a little in this price range, know that you have Lanvin, Balenciaga or, if you like shiny things, Buscemi.

Furthermore, the Classic Line was created within the range. This only brings together models without eccentricity, with a simple and timeless design.

Note from Benoit: we are looking at prices between €875 and €1,200. At this price, the competition is 1) very qualitative and 2) very tough. Louboutin should explain at greater length what the specificities of its models are.

Finally, like many luxury brands, the brand has developed a range of leather goods. I can't tell you more, not having tested it, except that it oscillates between formal and casual, from €900 to €1,700.

Note: I would like to point out that the photos used above are overviews of each category and do not represent all of them.

Louboutin men's shoes review

In order to carry out this test, the brand lent me two pairs. The first remains classic, while the second has a more marked design: I wanted to be able to examine both aspects of the brand

Before going into more detail, you should know that each model is manufactured in a Neapolitan workshop.

Test of Louboutin men's shoes – City Bro model (€875)

The first thing that appealed to me about this pair of Richelieus was their shape, which is reminiscent of those of our friends across the Channel.

Note from Benoit: and here is the astonishing paradox of a pair of men's Louboutin shoes. While for women, he creates sexy, feminine, daring pairs, how come we have such a banal and consensual shape for men? Who would have thought it was Louboutin when seeing the photo? Don't tell me it's because it's a classic pair that must be sober!

Because at these prices, we find classic shoes with a real signature shape (Corthay, Aubercy, to name a few). Even Saint Laurent, which is not a shoemaker, but which is very fashionable, offers classic footwear that is much more stylish. The only possible explanation is that he wanted to reinterpret the shapes of shoes from English brands like Grenson or Joseph Cheaney. But here too, on the part of Louboutin, why remain so wise in creation? Honestly, it's the kind of shape you see everywhere (in jargon, we call it a "bean shape" because of its very round side).

As you know, the first element to inspect on a pair of shoes is obviously the leather used . This is a beautiful calfskin, “Havana” color.

Note from Benoit: I agree that the color is very pretty and unusual.

On the other hand, the leather is hollow in one place, at the rear side of the right shoe. Of course, this can happen, but at such a price range, quality control at the factory must be absolutely uncompromising.

We continue with the inspection of the seams , starting with the sole. The stitch is thick and very regular, in this regard we are on Goodyear stitching .

As you can see, a white strip with a soft texture has been added between the two parts of the sole: it cushions your step and significantly increases the feeling of comfort.

Note from Benoit: I have seen better, even if the pair is generally well made.

On the rest of the seams, we find the same regularity. We also note the presence of a stopping point between the two sections of the laces.

Inside, you will find a clean insole , sewn in thread and surrounded by a border reminiscent of the brand's emblematic color. I like these little details that only the wearer can know, and which reinforce the coherence of the pair.

Note from Benoit: a “cute” pair, but the price really perplexes me. If I had been shown the pair without the red sole, I would say that it would have been sold between €300 and €400, with a maximum of €500.

For a pair that approaches €900 here, I can't understand the pair from a product point of view, and I have the impression that the price is an integral part of the shoe's positioning ("given the price , they must be high-end" vs "given the product, they must be high-end"). It's difficult to talk about good value for money, when you see what you can get from other brands . For €100 more, you have a personalized pair of Aubercy!

What to wear them with?

The Havana color of the City Bro fits easily into many looks, no particular difficulty at this level.

Once again, it was the British side of the shape of the shoes that appealed to me above all. Wanting to continue on this line, I opted for a macintosh (uncrossed waterproof jacket, with a shirt collar, with only the first button visible as a general rule).

I particularly like the look of Havana coupled with the burgundy of the chinos, and wear a white shirt to tone it all down.

The pair remains versatile after all, it would be just as interesting with raw jeans and a worked t-shirt, for example. Not being as fine as a classic Richelieu, it lends itself easily to casual looks .

Test of Louboutin men's ankle boots - Orion model (€1,245)

As I told you, I chose to go with a more daring model for the second pair, since they are studded Chelsea boots.

Once again, we start by looking at the skin used, always calfskin. Where some black leathers tend to look too opaque, this one is brushed and therefore takes the light well . Furthermore, the shape has hold, and the buttresses are very rigid.

Now let's look at the central element of the pair, the ornaments around the sole. They are divided into three elements, each of them affixed by hand and requiring significant work:

• A metallic “snake mesh” edging surrounds the entire welt of the shoe,

• Small nails which complete the border,

• Large studs all around the sole.

On the body of the boot, each row of stitching is double and regular. The close points give a certain refinement to the pair. Normally, at this price, Chelsea boots are made from a single piece of leather (we call them "one-cut"). This is not the case here, but it is an increasingly rare finish (I have only seen it at JM Weston and Aubercy).

There is also a sockliner, equipped with a pad for greater comfort.

Finally, last little detail on the sole that I really appreciate: the shape of the heel, very curved inwards. On the other hand, the ornaments are very close to the edge of the heel, which can prematurely wear them.

Note from Benoit: for me, this is THE problem with this shoe. The pimples are very low on the heel, and as soon as it wears a little (and it happens quickly), it is the pimples that will wear out. In my opinion, these are clearly not shoes for everyday life, but indeed evening shoes, for those who are taken by taxi and who do not walk much in the evening, or on floors without risks, because it is impossible to do kilometers on tarmac without wearing out the heel pins.

Aside: How to build a look in black?

I stuck to the very rock dimension of the ankle boots to build my look. Great style classic: the white shirt and the black perfecto, which I complete with black chinos.

I would like to linger a little on this assemblage rich in black pieces. Very clearly, the Orion is not a versatile model (and is not intended to be). Generally speaking, when an item presents a design fundamentally anchored in a style, it will be difficult to transpose it into another universe.

If rock style had an official flag, it would probably be on a black background; the choice of this color to define my outfit is logical. However, I make sure to respect a few basic rules, all the more true on black:

• Vary textures/materials: of all the black pieces, none has the same appearance. My perfecto is weathered by wear; the fabric of my chinos a little rough; the leather of the ankle boots is enhanced by the studding.

• Play with cuts/volumes: to avoid looking like a uniform stick of charcoal, I break the verticality of my outfit. The first time with the perfecto that falls right on the hips, and the second with the hem of my chinos, preventing my leg and the boot from merging. The white shirt contributes to this break-up effect and brightens the whole look.

A little dogmatic at times, I tend to say that black always loves black, often gray, and sometimes white. Don't get me wrong, the harmony of white and black is not the general truth that we frequently hear: here, the whole thing also works because it refers to a strong cultural imagination.

Note: If you want to go further on this subject, I invite you to (re)read our article on how to wear black.

Some maintenance tips

I can only advise you to protect your soles , both to increase their grip and their lifespan. Leather soles are not very durable, and Louboutins are no exception to the rule.

The Minuit minus 7 shoe repair shop, based in Paris but offering a remote service, is a partner of the brand. It has skates in the same red (€35), or you can resole your shoes with the designer red leather sole (approx. €200).

The use of shoe trees is essential , as are the classic rules of leather care .

My opinion on Louboutin men's shoes

What is the value for money for men's Louboutin shoes?

I am happy with both pairs in terms of design . We find a coherence which is distilled through small details which are not necessarily obvious, but which are revealed as the wearer puts them on. I like the shape of the pairs tested, inspired by the English style. If they are well executed, they are not new, as Benoît emphasizes.

The production is satisfactory . The colors of the skins used are deep, the assembly durable, the finishes well done. The shoes are also very comfortable. I didn't feel any pain, let's emphasize that. On the other hand, we retain the picots on the sole of the Orion: no doubt as to the meticulousness of their installation (and of the entire ornament, more generally), but they remain too close to the sole.

But with these shoes, the truth is elsewhere...

The sole, an integral part of the shoe, is quite uniquely beautiful. This shade has an incandescent, passionate side. It is the red of Hollywood femme fatales, of anger, of ardor... It is a penetrating color, which adds character to the shoe. If only we didn't damage it so quickly while walking! All leather soles erode quickly, but it's even more noticeable when the red coating wears off. And at the moment, it's quite frustrating.

A beautiful shape and good construction, certainly, but that would ignore the price. To put it bluntly, yes, they are too expensive in terms of quality/price ratio. Approaching a thousand euros for a pair, it must be impeccable in every way, both inside and out. Quality control leaving the factory must be uncompromising, the pair must not present any defects.

Would I advise you to go to Louboutin for a “neutral” pair, without specificity in the design, that you would wear every day? Unless you are seduced by the imagination around the brand, probably not.

But when you go to Louboutin and are ready to pay so much, do you come only for the intrinsic quality and the beautiful finishes? And if these are not fully in line with the price, why do so many customers repeat the offense? Is logic so down-to-earth?

I deliberately take this very clear-cut model as an example. One of the reasons for purchasing a pair of Louboutins - or a designer piece more generally - is the existence of a touch, a style that one would not find elsewhere. We can absolutely not like this type of design, which is not intended to achieve unanimity! We are here in an artistic approach, which seeks neither consensus nor to fit into a given style.

The shoe comes from the artist's own research. He had the idea of ​​using crystals of irregular sizes, placing them on slippers, playing with shine and matte; as if to combine rebellion and elegance, gentleness and violence.

Or maybe he didn't mean that at all! And that is the beauty of the work of creators, producing and evoking different things in different people, nourishing different universes, nourishing our imagination or our thinking. This is what can motivate us to get one of their pieces, because through their design and their aura, they speak to our personal sensibilities and contribute to a unique experience.

Note from Benoit: here we are on a totally (and literally) provocative shoe model, with a very aggressive design, which calls out, and which is almost there to frighten. Even though it's obviously not my genre, I still recognize some rather unique, polarizing and widely identifiable work of creativity. The effect of the irregular crystals gives an almost animal appearance to these shoes.

How to explain the price of Louboutin shoes?

If we dissect the price, it is not based solely on manufacturing and comfort . As with all brands of the genre, part obviously corresponds to the name itself and plays on the psychological level , implying flawless tailoring. We will not remake the system, this is something we must be aware of when we move towards “mainstream” luxury.

In addition, the price is also explained by the designer's research work and the stylistic choices he chooses. This is very clear on sneakers for example; whether we like it or not, they have a very particular design, specific to the brand. In this case, the aesthetic aspect takes precedence over the utilitarian aspect, the approach is less rational.

But is that enough to explain the price? I went to interview several Louboutin owners around me, and it came out very clearly that the last fraction of the price corresponds to the part of the dream that we offer ourselves, and the feeling that we have when wearing them. . You will understand...

Louboutinizers , when do they wear their Louboutins?

To understand Loubies mania further, I spoke to those first concerned. I know five Louboutin owners, three women and two men:

• Yasmine and her Daffodile , her Miss Clichy and her Feticha in smooth black leather - first pair bought 3 years ago,

• Julie and her black Fetisha - received 3 years ago for her 18th birthday,

• Besma and her Pigalles - her own gift for her 25th birthday,

• Jimmy and his Rollerboy spikes slippers - bought 1 year ago,

• Sylvain and his Louis spikes sneakers - bought 1 year ago.

They all plan to buy more and call their pairs by their name. I questioned them on several points.

• The interview: Everyone cherishes their little shoes. On the men's side, shoe trees and shoe polish are essential (for the non-studded parts of the sneakers). These are their "favorite pairs", they know all the rules of care. The women are less careful, but have good will: the three systematically put them in their dustbag , one also stuffs them with more paper. Of their entire wardrobe, it's the Louboutins that receive the most attention.

• The aging of the pair: The result is unanimous, the sole is fragile and the red is already starting to fade after 5 to 6 wears, a result that my experience confirms . “Always be careful where you wear them,” I was told, or even “the parquet floor of an apartment in the evening is ideal.” Some even go so far as to only put them on once they arrive at their destination. Otherwise, they hold up well, even if everyone says they only wear them occasionally.

The five friends who give me a hand by answering my questions are ultimately very lucid, none of them consider their Louboutins as everyday shoes. And when we ask them when they wear them, the word that always comes up is obviously “in the evening”.

You stand out a little from the others, they give you a “fashion” side. It becomes the main piece of your look, and you are comfortable in your pumps because you know that they will definitely have an effect. - Jimmy, 23 years old, salesman.

Second place on the podium: romantic dates, for both boys and girls. They want to appear neat, to prove that they have made an effort; they play on the erotic potential of the stiletto heel and feel seductive.

Last place: the office. In this regard, one of the most telling testimonies is that of my friend Besma, who holds a position of responsibility in a large bank.

I wear them if I go out with friends or with my boyfriend, but especially at the office. When you have to defend a project in front of an assembly, you can't help but be stressed. Before entering the room, I put on my Pigalle (emblematic pump model, editor's note) and, I don't know, it's as if I had a red Superman cape. They give me self-confidence, it's strange but they give me assurance. - Besma, 27 years old, project manager.

I may be exaggerating a little, but these testimonies almost reflect a bond that is created between a person and their Louboutins. She knows its lack of robustness, will not be able to wear it often, but makes her purchase knowingly: what she is looking for is the style and emotion that the pair will give her.

Note from Benoit: and casually, whatever I think of Louboutin for men, it is clear that very few fashion brands manage to create as much desire among customers, who are completely lucid and aware of the very present weaknesses of this type of shoes.

Louboutin, power shoes?

In my opinion, Louboutins can be fully described as power shoes . I would even say that it is the first criterion when we buy Louboutin: the emotion that they arouse in us.

Note from Benoit: Arnaud, from the Very Good Lord blog, will also use the expression "power shoes" in his article on his pair of Louboutin "Fes" model moccasins .

For fans, wearing Louboutin means feeling well dressed, attractive and confident. And it’s already well-established culturally, the brand has managed to create a very rich universe!

On the women's side, Christian Louboutin has been very strong in assimilating his shoes to sensuality, the power of seduction and heightened femininity . Thanks to multiple appearances in TV series or Hollywood productions (I can't help but think of the image of Carrie Bradshaw as I write these lines), exhibitions around the world, the almost dreamlike dimension of certain designs, collaborations with the captivating Dita von Teese ... and the machine is launched.

To go even further, one of the designer's great feats is to have given shoes their sexual aspect again. She has once again become this object of fantasy, the accessory that sublimates a woman. It plays a lot with this fetishistic connotation which, inevitably, still refers to seduction and the feeling of desirability in those who wear them. He also put together an exhibition with David Lynch on this subject, FETISH . Note from Benoit: be careful, this site is not safe at work, but the shoes are completely crazy (and incidentally, impossible to use for walking).

This very strong image has extended to men who, if they do not feel sexier in Louboutin, will feel aesthetes. They are those who are sensitive to this extreme femininity and this refinement, and share this spirit by wearing Louboutins themselves. This is where we will find the takers of their Classic Line.

Celebrity wear too is inseparable from the brand : from the opening of the first store, it was a visit from Caroline from Monaco who helped boost sales. There is not a single red carpet without an actress or singer wearing Louboutins, and more and more people are spotted with red soles on their feet, both men and women. Not to mention the numerous titles where we hear the artists chanting “Louboutin”.

This assimilation to show business, as well as to the erotic universe of the brand, means that we project these characteristics onto ourselves more or less unconsciously (success, confidence, seduction, etc.), hence the concept of “power”. In spirit, we don't wear simple shoes, we wear Louboutins.

The symbolism of the color red finally has a lot to do with it. In addition to the notion of desire, which we have widely discussed, it is a strong color, which translates courage and power . When I think back to my friend Besma's testimony, I tell myself that the effect would probably not be the same if the sole were blue or even gold: red becomes a source of power located right under our feet.

As for me, did I feel a certain power while testing them? In a sense, yes. I didn't feel more beautiful or more important, but they reminded me of that period when I discovered fashion with wide eyes. Let's say they played on the nostalgic chord.