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Dress well when you are strong or stout
Too narrow, too wide, too short, too long... When you're curvy, dressing well every day can be really difficult. Even though she fights it tooth and nail, fashion conveys extremely standardized images, especially when it comes to corpulent men.
As a result, individuals falling outside the imposed norm suffer and it is difficult for them to find clothes that fit them. Above all, they may have difficulty concretely visualizing the style that suits them and that will enhance them.
Advertising too often only gives a single morphotype of the male body.
The ideal guide for strong or corpulent men
In this article, we will focus on strong physiques and those who are overweight . We have already mentioned the question of muscular physiques , but it is much more difficult to dress when the apparent volumes of the body are not necessarily muscular mass.
While it is necessarily easier to be elegant when you have a well-proportioned and shaped body, be sure of one thing: you can be strong while still being stylish and elegant .
First of all, it is important to get rid of certain reflexes, beliefs and other bad habits! We will then see which styles, cuts and materials benefit strong physiques .
Note from Benoît
I regularly receive questions like: "I'm about to go on a diet, is it worth investing in my wardrobe? "
In this case, I advise investing a little in elegant clothing (I said elegant, not sportswear ) at the entry level . And I find it a good motivator to see that you are now floating in old clothes, it proves that your weight loss is effective; )
As for the more intimate question of weight loss, when someone asks me my opinion, I answer that it is a good thing to interest you in it. Certainly, it is easy for me to talk about it even though I have always had a body shape that meets ready-to-wear standards, but I think very personally (here, it is Benoit who is speaking and not BonneGueule ) that the Life is too short to live feeling bad about your body or your clothes.
For many readers, men's fashion is the first step in a long journey toward self-improvement. If, for you, it can be a motivating factor to lose weight and have a silhouette more in line with ready-to-wear standards, you must go for it!
Moreover, I will take advantage of this interlude to (re) give you the address of Benjamin's excellent blog: Naturacoach . It is the BonneGueule equivalent of food, with a documented, rational, reasoned and moderate point of view (it does not establish the paleo diet or the low carb diet as absolute truth) , while retaining the pleasure of eating ( don't miss his fascinating analysis of Kellogg's . He had also written an article in our columns on the 4 pillars of good nutrition .
Personally, it has helped me a lot to get rid of certain bad eating habits without depriving myself, something that I thought was impossible for a big eater like me.
I'll let Romain pick up the thread of the article!
Style elements that risk harming a strong physique
1. A top that’s too big
Often, we can see stout or slightly overweight people opting for loose pieces or simply purchased too large. The sensation of "floating" specific to a wide garment is then reassuring, because the fabric is not next to the skin and does not "stick" to the shapes. But make no mistake: loose clothing is no illusion, and can even accentuate certain curves .
The top is too loose: a good alternative to sport, a bad idea elsewhere.
Note from Benoît
T-shirts that are too big on overweight people are really THE clothing to avoid because it makes them even thicker. Really, be uncompromising about this.
Rest assured: we will see below how clothing in the right size can enhance your appearance!
2. A top too small
Obviously, t-shirts or shirts stuffed with elastane, pants and other items designed to be worn close to the body should be banned , purely and simply.
If the top too big is unflattering, the top too small is downright unfortunate.
3. Fluid materials
To speak only of itself, silk is a very pleasant material to wear, so light that you sometimes don't even feel it anymore. But worked in satin, twill or jacquard, it remains an extremely fluid material and generally captures a lot of light.
Silk is a fluid material that tends to accentuate shapes, even on a slender physique.
This type of combo risks drawing attention to your curves with an often cruel play of shadows... On the other hand, mixed silk (cotton, linen, etc.) is entirely possible if the material offers a more matte and a more rigid hold than pure silk.
4. Materials that are too thick
Velvet and tweed have the particularity of being thick, the rustic but luxurious aspect of the latter being favored for the winter season. But they have the unfortunate tendency to widen the silhouette and make it heavier, these materials are not easy to work with for fitted pieces.
Luckily for you, we can't say that they are very "trendy" and will leave you with many other alternatives!
On the other hand, a large knit will emphasize your stature because the natural elasticity of the wool will adjust to your bust without molding you. A funnel neck will even have the advantage of lengthening your silhouette and, therefore, visually slimming you down.
Velvet and tweed should be avoided, but a good knit will do the trick!
5. Imposing patterns
The print should be taken with a pinch of salt. Avoid as much as possible excessively massive patterns which could visually accentuate the volumes of the bust . The same goes for horizontal stripes, unless you are sure to only wear them under a jacket or blazer.
In addition to being too small, this shirt has unflattering designs.
6. Pants that are too tight or too wide
In the same way as a top that is too wide or too tight, pants with poorly controlled volume can lead you to "disaster", especially if you are stronger in the bust than in the legs .
Too slim or too small, it will accentuate a most inelegant contrast between the thinness of the ankles and the more massive appearance of the thighs and bust.
Too loose, it will considerably weigh down your figure and could even give you a clumsy look.
Note from Benoît
This is a point that is underestimated, pants that are too wide are also a real nuisance for a strong physique, it completely cramps the whole look. We will have to find a better balance!
“I’m a little fat, so how do I dress?”
1. Blazers and suits: key elements of a beautiful build
First step to a (very) elegant silhouette when you are curvy : find the blazer/suit capable of flattering you. Indeed, a blazer can, better than any other piece, outline a beautiful bust, highlight the shoulders and create a nice curve.
And if a semblance of silk is not to be completely excluded, a matte texture will be welcome, which is good because most suits and blazers are made this way.
Below, the three-button jacket works surprisingly well on Matt LeBlanc. Inspiration ?
(Photo by Monica Schipper/FilmMagic)
But then, which cut should you choose for these essential pieces? Well here again, as with shirts, avoid wide widths and prefer fitted cuts. From a strictly aesthetic point of view, consider an essential element: the fitted cut allows you to exaggerate the volume of the shoulders to the detriment of the volume of the bust...
More simply, it creates a “V” shape. Conversely, the straight cut will balance the volume of the stomach in relation to that of the shoulders, neutralizing, favoring an "H" or even "O" shape...
However, make sure you can close the button(s).
Finally, in terms of "styles", the three pieces and double-breasted suits are interesting to go even further in the harmony of the silhouette, especially in the event of an overweight stomach. The tuxedo, of course, works just as well.
(Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)
If the idea is not to offer you a corset in which to enclose a few bulges, nevertheless consider the 3 pieces and the crossover as strict pieces and can sometimes be - very - slightly uncomfortable (sitting position in particular). But the effect is really conclusive!
(Photo by Jeffrey Mayer/WireImage)
To eliminate a little excess weight, the vest is a ready-made solution.
Note from Benoît
This is the key point for dressing when you are overweight. Sleek styling with just a little bit of casualness is the best way to go when you have this kind of body shape. At Pitti , I saw a lot of slightly older men with bellies, but with crazy class in double-breasted jackets and knitted ties. Use and abuse gray or navy blue blazers with micro-patterns, knitted ties, pocket squares and other beautiful shoes! On the other hand, I'm still looking for a nice look for strong body types in streetwear...
If you are in Paris and you want affordable half-measures in a suit and chinos, go to Gilles Masson. Being very strong himself, he is quite used to dressing this type of body type (read the comments of the article if you are hesitant).
In ready-to-wear, colleagues from Réseau Entreprendre Paris have set up a network of stores with large sizes : Size Factory . Go for simple dressy pieces (shirts, chinos, blazers).
The other main style that can be suitable is the workwear style with its straight cuts, but it is immediately less flamboyant than a more dressy style. This style is full of brands that fit well with somewhat strong physiques: Filson, Dickies, Carhartt, etc.
It’s up to you to chart your path!
2. Nothing better than a fitted shirt or sweater if you are curvy
The shirt and the sweater are structuring pieces, in the sense that they harmonize the male bust with lines and curves. Clean shoulders, a rigid collar and controlled bending are your best allies for homogenizing your body shape and creating a pretty build . Above all, don't be afraid of fitted cuts, on the contrary: well cut, they will enhance your shoulders and slim you down.
Check that the shoulders, armholes, sleeves and fitting are clean, without unnecessary amplitude.
The ideal for shirts is tailor-made
Finally, when it comes to the materials for the sweater, don't worry too much. Virgin wool, merino, cashmere: as long as the appearance is not too fluffy, treat yourself!
3. Pants to refine a strong silhouette
A few styles of pants monopolize advertising posters and fashion editorials, but don't panic: today it is very easy for a man to find varied cuts adapted to his body shape . As far as we're concerned, it's going to be simple: straight and semi-fitted cuts are good for you!
In strong men, the thighs are often larger than the calves, so we will make sure to have pants that follow the curve of the thigh and go down harmoniously to the ankle . The semi-fitted cut is also indicated because, by coming very slightly closer to the calf, it creates a slightly more elegant leg than a straight cut.
Jeans, chinos or dressy flannel pants: same battle.
Also think, if you have not already done so, of the good tailor listed in your address book: he will be able to take you pants that are too wide, around the calves for example, and adapt the piece to your body shape . A reflex that can really make shopping easier for you!
4. Maintain control of proportions when constructing a very casual outfit
Obviously, it is entirely possible to move away from the suit or the eternal jeans/shirt duo and towards more casual outfits. The same rules of fitted cut and controlled volume apply with, in addition, vigilance with regard to massive prints, colors that are too garish or materials that are too thick as mentioned above.
(Photo by Karwai Tang/WireImage)
Think about the long coat which will lengthen your silhouette. Likewise, do not hesitate to combine elegance, style and relaxation : more than your silhouette, it is self-confidence which will serve your look.
(Photo by Jim Dyson/Redferns)
Don’t hesitate to accessorize either! A long necklace will add verticality.
Your weight, whatever it is, should not make you think that you cannot be elegant. If you feel good about yourself, clothing will only be an accessory to attract attention thanks to effective and personal outfits!
