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How to dress well when you are strong or corpulent
Too narrow, too wide, too short, too long... When you're curvy, dressing well on a daily basis can be really difficult. Although it may deny it tooth and nail, fashion conveys extremely standardized images, especially when it comes to corpulent men.
As a result, individuals who fall outside the imposed norm suffer and it is difficult for them to find clothes that fit them. Above all, they may have difficulty concretely visualizing the style that suits them and that will enhance their value.
Advertising too often presents only one morphotype of the male body.
The ideal guide for strong or corpulent men
In this article, we will focus on strong physiques and those who are overweight . We have already discussed the issue of muscular physiques , but it is much more delicate to dress when the apparent volumes of the body are not necessarily muscle mass.
While it's certainly easier to look stylish when you have a well-proportioned and sculpted body, be sure of one thing: you can be strong while still being stylish and elegant .
First of all, it is important to get rid of certain reflexes, beliefs and other bad habits! We will then see which styles, cuts and materials are best for strong physiques .
Note from Benoît
I regularly get questions like: "I'm going on a diet, is it worth investing in my wardrobe? "
In this case, I recommend investing a little in elegant clothes (I said elegant, not sportswear ) at the entry level . And I find that it is a good motivator to see that you are now floating in old clothes, it proves that your weight loss is effective ; )
As for the more intimate question of weight loss, when I am asked for my opinion, I answer that it is a good thing to be interested in it. Of course, it is easy for me to talk about it while I have always had a body type in the ready-to-wear standards, but I think very personally (here, it is Benoit who is speaking and not BonneGueule ) that life is too short to be lived feeling bad about your body or your clothes.
For many readers, men's fashion is the first step on a long journey toward self-improvement. If, for you, it can be a motivating factor to lose weight and have a figure more in line with ready-to-wear standards, you should go for it!
By the way, I'm taking advantage of this parenthesis to (re) give you the address of Benjamin's excellent blog: Naturacoach . It's the BonneGueule equivalent of food, with a documented, rational, reasoned and moderate point of view (he doesn't establish the paleo diet or the low carb diet as absolute truth) , while retaining the pleasure of eating (don't miss his fascinating analysis of Kellogg's ) . He also wrote an article in our columns on the 4 pillars of a good diet .
Personally, it has helped me a lot to get rid of some bad eating habits without depriving myself, something I thought was impossible for a big eater like me.
I'll let Romain take over the thread of the article!
Style Elements That Risk Working Against a Strong Physique
1. A top that is too big
Often, we can see people who are corpulent or a little overweight opt for loose pieces or simply buy them too big. The "floating" feeling specific to a loose garment is then reassuring, because the fabric is not next to the skin and does not "stick" to the shapes. But make no mistake: a loose garment does not create illusions, and can even accentuate certain curves .
The overly loose top: a good alternative to sports, a false good idea elsewhere.
Note from Benoît
Oversized t-shirts on overweight people are definitely THE clothes to avoid because it makes them look even bigger. Really, be uncompromising about this.
Rest assured: we will see below how a garment in the right size can enhance your value!
2. A top that is too small
Obviously, T-shirts or shirts stuffed with elastane, pants and other items cut to be worn close to the body are to be banned , pure and simple.
If a top that's too big is unflattering, a top that's too small is downright unfortunate.
3. Fluid materials
To speak only of it, silk is a very pleasant material to wear, so light that sometimes you don't even feel it anymore. But worked in satin, twill or jacquard, it remains an extremely fluid material and generally captures a lot of light.
Silk is a fluid material that tends to accentuate shapes, even on a slender physique.
This type of combo risks drawing attention to your curves through an often cruel play of shadows... On the other hand, mixed silk (cotton, linen, etc.) is quite possible if the material offers a more matte appearance and a more rigid hold than pure silk.
4. Materials that are too thick
Velvet and tweed have the particularity of being thick, the rustic but luxurious aspect of the latter being preferred for the winter season. But they have the unfortunate tendency to widen the silhouette and weigh it down, these materials are not easy to work with for fitted pieces.
Luckily for you, they can't be said to be very "trendy" and will leave you with many other alternatives!
On the other hand, a chunky knit will highlight your stature because the natural elasticity of the wool will fit your bust without molding you. A funnel neck will even have the merit of lengthening your silhouette and, consequently, visually slimming you.
Velvet and tweed are to be avoided, but a good knit will do the trick!
5. The imposing patterns
Prints should be taken with a pinch of salt. Avoid patterns that are too massive as much as possible, which could accentuate the volume of the bust . The same goes for horizontal stripes, unless you are certain that you will only wear them under a jacket or blazer.
In addition to being too small, this shirt has unflattering patterns.
6. Pants that are too tight or too loose
In the same way that a top is too large or too tight, pants with poorly controlled volumes can lead to "disaster", especially if you are larger in the bust than in the legs .
Too slim or too small, it will accentuate a most inelegant contrast between the thinness of the ankles and the more massive appearance of the thighs and bust.
If it is too loose, it will weigh down your figure considerably and may even give you a clumsy appearance.
Note from Benoît
This is an underestimated point, pants that are too wide are also a real pain for a strong physique, it totally flattens the whole thing. We're going to have to find a better balance!
“I’m a little fat, so how do I dress?”
1. Blazers and suits: key elements of a beautiful build
First step to a (very) elegant silhouette when you are round : find the blazer/suit that can flatter you. Indeed, a blazer can, better than any other piece, draw a beautiful bust, highlight the shoulders and draw a nice curve.
And while a semblance of silk is not completely out of the question, a matte texture will be welcome, which is good because most suits and blazers are made this way.
Below, the three-button jacket works surprisingly well on Matt LeBlanc. Inspiration?
(Photo by Monica Schipper/FilmMagic)
But then, what cut should you choose for these essential pieces? Well, here again, as with shirts, avoid widths and prefer fitted cuts. From a strictly aesthetic point of view, consider an essential element: the fitted cut allows you to exaggerate the volume of the shoulders to the detriment of the volume of the bust...
More simply, it draws a "V" shaped build. Conversely, the straight cut will balance the volume of the stomach in relation to that of the shoulders, neutralizing, favoring an "H" or even "O" shaped build...
However, make sure you can close the button(s). and, if necessary, remember that a retoucher can easily slightly shift a stubborn pimple.
Finally, in terms of "styles", three-piece suits and double-breasted suits are interesting to go even further in the harmony of the silhouette, especially in case of excess weight at the belly. The tuxedo, obviously, works just as well.
(Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)
If the idea is not to offer you a corset in which to lock a few bulges, consider nevertheless the 3 pieces and the crossed as strict pieces and can be, sometimes - very - slightly uncomfortable (sitting position in particular). But the effect is really conclusive!
(Photo by Jeffrey Mayer/WireImage)
To erase a little extra weight, the vest is a perfect solution.
Note from Benoît
This is the key point for dressing when you are overweight. Elegant style with a little bit of casualness is the best way to go when you have this type of body shape. At Pitti , I saw a lot of slightly older men with a belly, but with a crazy class in a double-breasted jacket and a knitted tie. Use and abuse gray or navy blue blazers with micro-patterns, knitted ties, pocket squares and other beautiful shoes! On the other hand, I am still looking for a nice look for strong body shapes in streetwear...
If you are in Paris and want affordable half-measure in suits and chinos, head to Gilles Masson. Being quite strong himself, he is quite used to dressing this type of body shape (read the comments of the article if you are unsure).
In ready-to-wear, colleagues from Réseau Entreprendre Paris have set up a network of boutiques with large sizes : Size Factory . Go there for sober dressy pieces (shirts, chinos, blazers).
The other great style that can work is the workwear style with its straight cuts, but it is immediately less flamboyant than a more dressy style. This style is full of brands that work well on slightly strong physiques: Filson, Dickies, Carhartt, etc.
It's up to you to chart your own course!
2. Nothing better than a fitted shirt or sweater if you are curvy
The shirt and sweater are structuring pieces, in the sense that they harmonize the male bust with lines and curves. Clean shoulders, a rigid collar and controlled cinching are then your best allies to homogenize your morphology and draw a nice build . Do not be afraid of fitted cuts, on the contrary: well cut, they will enhance your shoulders and refine you.
Check that the shoulders, armholes, sleeves and fitting are clean, without unnecessary amplitude.
The ideal for shirts is custom-made ; but it is also possible to find a shirt to your taste in the supermarket. You have to try: it is a bit painful, but do not be discouraged, you will inevitably come across a brand whose pattern suits you.
Finally, when it comes to the materials for the sweater, don't worry too much. Virgin wool, merino, cashmere: as long as the appearance is not too fluffy, go for it!
3. Pants to refine a strong silhouette
A few styles of pants monopolize advertising posters and fashion editorials, but don't panic: it is now very easy for a man to find varied cuts adapted to his body shape . As far as we are concerned, it will be simple: straight and semi-fitted cuts want you well!
In strong men, the thighs are often larger than the calves, so we will make sure to have pants that follow the curve of the thigh and descend harmoniously to the ankle . The semi-fitted cut is also recommended because, by coming very slightly closer to the calf, it draws a leg a little more elegant than a straight cut.
Jeans, chinos or dressy flannel pants: same fight.
Also, if you haven't already, think about the right tailor in your address book: he will be able to take in trousers that are too wide, at the calves for example, and adapt the piece to your body shape . A reflex that can really make your shopping easier!
4. Maintain control of proportions when constructing a very casual outfit
Of course, it is entirely possible to move away from the suit or the eternal jeans/shirt duo to more casual outfits. The same rules of fitted cut and controlled volume apply , with, in addition, vigilance regarding massive prints, overly garish colors or overly thick materials that we mentioned above.
(Photo by Karwai Tang/WireImage)
Think about a long coat that will lengthen your silhouette. Likewise, don't hesitate to combine elegance, style and relaxation : more than your silhouette, it's self-confidence that will benefit your look.
(Photo by Jim Dyson/Redferns)
Don't hesitate to accessorize either! A long necklace will bring verticality.
Your weight, whatever it may be, should not make you think that you cannot be elegant. If you are comfortable in your own skin, clothing will only be an accessory to attract attention with effective and personal outfits!
More articles on morphology
- All the different body shapes (menu)
