Ruitertassen is a Belgian leather goods manufacturer whose credo is longevity and quality. It combines a vintage design with a multitude of details, with the aim of offering functional, robust and aesthetic bags. Let's take a closer look!
Choosing a leather bag for men, an investment to consider
Men's leather goods must be approached with as much caution as suits: a quality bag is an investment. Otherwise, use reveals many flaws in the making of the product or the quality of the material. We therefore quickly find ourselves with a wallet that cracks and ages poorly.
Make no mistake: price does not guarantee quality. As with textiles, certain brands do not deprive themselves of very comfortable margins. Be careful not to reach into your wallet too quickly, you have to know (if you allow me the expression) separate the wheat from the chaff.
So, certainly, the heritage of a brand can be a good indicator of the quality brought to the product, but not always. We know that older brands can be proud to work with a list of quality suppliers, acquired over time, on the basis of trust.
Apart from brands concerned about their image, the quality of their products and their customers, we also find the opposite trend. Brands that ride on their success and who, to maximize profits, do not hesitate to reduce the quality of the product by saving on materials or manufacturing.
Some savings are very small, a few euros on manufacturing or materials. After all, it's so small that the customer doesn't see anything for a few years. However, on thousands of products sold per year, the savings are colossal, and this is the entry into the vicious circle of chasing costs.
The same ploy can be repeated dozens of times, you will end up buying a product whose price has certainly increased (for that matter), but which no longer has the same quality/price ratio as before.
Roughly speaking, this is the game that many luxury brands played when the explosion of the Asian market occurred. A colossal demand which could only be met by employing additional suppliers and additional production workshops, where quality control is less demanding due to deadlines.
This is something that can also be found in brands that are more accessible to the public. Abused leathers used in making shoes or purses are commonplace (haha).
The evolution of the men's fashion market has interested many brands, who have rushed to capture this demand. The risk, for us, is to be drowned in the offer and to no longer find our way. The advantage is that quality brands are evolving and expanding their range to offer an even better range of leather goods.
To distinguish good leather from bad, trust your senses and Romain, who has written a leather guide in 3 parts.
The story of the leatherworker Ruitertassen
Belgian leather goods manufacturer almost a century old, Ruitertassen has seriously developed its products and sells its robust satchels internationally. According to their own motto, “If the schoolbag lasts a lifetime and can be passed down between generations, our mission is accomplished.”
Just like BonneGueule for clothing, they deplore the planned obsolescence of leather goods, and not without reason! How many cracks, folds, marks on leather purchased a few months earlier?
This is the bitter observation that many of you have undoubtedly already made by choosing to invest in one or other of these brands, with a storefront, not meeting the most stringent quality charters. simple.
Take-the-time-to-dear-dear . It's a luxury that you must allow yourself so that you no longer have to repeat the same random purchases, over and over again. Because a beautiful bag will last you a long time and will develop a patina, instead of deteriorating.
Ruitertassen makes customer satisfaction its priority. The brand even receives models that are 15 to 20 years old in restoration, because the owners do not want to change them... This is how we recognize good addresses, customer loyalty.
Test of the Ruitertassen Briefcase Esquire men's bag (€689)
The leathers used
The bags are developed with durability in mind, normal for a brand aiming for a lifetime guarantee.
The raw material used, leather, must be carefully selected. It will bring all its character to the room, and must respect the brand's high quality criteria.
The bag that I am going to present to you is part of the Business range, fundamentally different from the brand's range of satchels (their bestseller ).
I chose a different model to look for what could be reviewed and improved, not to mention that the binder is already largely ready.
“Briefcase Esquire” template by Ruitertassen
It is a full-grain cognac-colored leather. Full grain is the noblest part of the leather. Unlike brands that talk about "real leather" by using split leather... Yes, it's real leather, but far from the quality standards you can expect if the price of said bag is high.
Once taken, the leather is tanned to make it more supple and durable. There are more than twenty different tannages, all belonging to one of these categories: mineral tanning or vegetable tanning.
The most used method remains mineral chrome tanning, because it is faster (less than 24 hours, compared to one month for vegetable tanning), but also very versatile in terms of colors and flexibility of the leather.
Unfortunately, this method causes allergic reactions in many people when it is poorly managed, not to mention its rather heavy ecological footprint.
Vegetable tanning allows you to obtain more nuanced and deeper shades.
Vegetable tanning is carried out using tannins extracted from trees, roots, leaves or even fruits. Acacia, oak or chestnut to name but a few. It sometimes requires up to two years of bathing to be cooked.
Thanks to this process, the leather is respected, the environment and the owner of the leather too. This tanning gives natural coloring to the leather, and sets deeper and more nuanced shades. To the touch, the difference is obvious with mineral tanning, where we can perceive a slight glaze, a certain cold rigidity.
The exterior of the bag is cowhide leather, which is more resistant.
Conversely, vegetable tanning, respectful of the leather, has a pleasant, almost warm touch, different depending on the skin, thus making the product unique. The resulting natural patina will be your greatest reward.
The exterior of the bag is cowhide leather from the rear part of the animal, called the “bubble butt”. This leather is more durable, which is why it is used on the exterior of the bag. On the other hand, the internal lining is made of calfskin, a finer, more delicate but also more expensive leather.
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The lining of the bag is entirely in calfskin, a quality detail rare enough to be highlighted.
I insist on the fact that the lining is not made with the reverse side of the leather, coated or covered with nylon. Great attention is paid to every detail of the bag and to the quality of all the elements of its composition, automatically increasing the bill.
Details of the Esquire Briefcase leather bag
This is a subject to which men are particularly vigilant: what are the interior arrangements? How can you easily access your wallet? On his phone?
After the exterior, let's now analyze the design, and see if the bag is indeed suitable for "business" use. After all, what is a bag of ultimate quality worth if it is of no use? NOTHING.
The handle is quite short, it allows you to maintain control of the bag and its contents.
If you've ever used a tote bag , you know that it's more difficult to avoid unwanted bumping against the precious contents of the bag. Not good if you're carrying around a MacBook that's a bit sensitive to shock. At first, I was perplexed by this short handle, but I quickly realized how practical it was .
Note that a shoulder strap in the same leather as the bag is also provided, enough to free your hands to enjoy cycling trips.
A crisp, clean, no-frills interior.
The bag is equipped with the bare minimum, but we find our way there. A storage space for the transport or credit card, another larger one for the passport, a partition to hold the computer, and a few books neatly placed in the bag. Let's not forget the spaces provided for pens (it's a "business" bag).
A large front pocket allows you to store some additional items.
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Note the discreet presence of this handle, which secures the bag to the handle of a suitcase on wheels.
A beautiful contrast of colors that honors the quality of the leathers.
I noticed that the magnetic clip closing a compartment of the bag is located right in front of the head of the button closing the card compartment. We quickly notice the friction and wear on this button if no book is placed between the two elements. A necessary detail to raise.
My opinion on the Ruitertassen men's bag
A bag of a quality rarely found elsewhere, the construction is pretty and solid. I am particularly happy with the choice of leather colors which blend perfectly . Contrast is sought after, it makes all the difference.
The strap in the same leather as the bag is an asset, we see far too many models adorned with a sad strap, barely matching the color of the bag.
There are few complaints about the bag, the brand fulfills its specifications very well . It's the least you can do at €689, but the task is not easy with competition from other big brands, capable of aligning very competitive prices by reducing the effort put into the final product. Efforts that are barely visible to the average consumer, who are more seduced by the brand image.
The brand is in the process of overhauling its image and its means of sales/communication. To guide you, all the bags that we see on the Ruitertassen UK site are available on the Ruitertassen FR site, but a big difference in the photos would make them appear to be completely different products.
In this case, do not hesitate to contact the brand to obtain the references necessary for your order. Olivier and his team will help you find the model that could serve you well for the next fifteen years.
