The overshirt, autopsy of a success

The history of the overshirt

The origin of the overshirt remains unclear. However, there are a few theories that would explain his arrival in our locker room.

For some, the overshirt appeared for the first time in the 1930s. The American Navy used it to dress the first CPOs (Chief Petty Officers). It was a thick shirt with pockets on the chest. We know this date because bargain hunters of the time managed to obtain them from military surpluses.

For others, it would be an adaptation of the BDU (Battle Dress Uniform) shirts used by the American army since the 1980s as combat uniforms.

Last theory, the overshirt could also come from the overshirts created during the Korean War . Originally designed to combat the Korean winter, it was intended to replace the aging uniforms of World War II.

Moreover, in one of these articles, David showed you one of these historic overshirts that he had found on Brut Clothing.

Over the years, the overshirt has become a part of the daily lives of certain civilians. In 1990, the lumberjack shirt appeared. Thicker, it was generally worn over a t-shirt.

How to explain the success of the overshirt?

To understand the success of the overshirt, we must delve into the clothing context of recent years.

The men's wardrobe is changing and transforming. Previously, men dressed in formal attire. Today the codes have changed. Our collection manager at BonneGueule remembers: “ Before, the navy blue jacket was a staple in our collections, I worked a lot on it, with several models in the collections. Now the jacket tends to disappear.”

For Julien, this casualization arrived at the moment when “we started to mismatch our suits, with chinos and denim”. He continues by recalling “that it is the search for everyday comfort that has put the overshirt in the spotlight”.

The versatility of the piece brings a multitude of possibilities to consumers. For our collection manager “the shirt is a perfect in-between a work jacket that is sometimes too rigid and thick and a shirt that is too light”. No matter the weather or the season, an overshirt can be a solution.

How to recognize an overshirt?

Identifying an overshirt is harder than it seems. Indeed, certain characteristics of the overshirt have evolved.

Julien, collection manager at BonneGueule explains to us the complexity of this identification: "There are a multitude of overshirt models on the market, from light overshirts to thick overshirts. The range of possibilities is enormous. The boundaries between families are extremely fine."

There are still several criteria that allow you to identify an overshirt, a work jacket or a shirt. Overview.

1. Pockets

As explained in the historical section, the origin of the overshirt is military and therefore utilitarian . It is therefore quite natural that the overshirt still retains the characteristics of its former use today.

Several types of pockets can be used for an overshirt. If you want to know more, Nicolò has written a compendium of the 15 pockets that turn a shirt into an overshirt.

However, a work jacket also has pockets. The confusion is such that even among our advisors: “ it is not uncommon to hear about a jacket for our Milo overshirt (thick boiled wool)” confides Julien.

2. The cut

The overshirt is an “overcoat”, which means that one or more layers are required underneath the overshirt, such as a t-shirt or shirt for example. For this, it will have a necessarily straight cut, in order to maintain optimal comfort.

In terms of length, it's difficult to differentiate an overshirt from a work jacket , we are practically on the same standards. Depending on the model, there are some differences. For example, a denim jacket stops at the waist, with a more “boxy” effect. The overshirt, for its part, pushes the slider a little, stopping at the top of the thighs.

3. The collar

In terms of collar, there is something for everyone. From the collar of a structured work jacket to the collar of a casual shirt, the overshirt is inspired by all styles. Note, the thicker the overshirt, the more it borrows certain codes from a jacket . Conversely, the lighter the overshirt, the more it will use the elements of a shirt.

The advantages of an overshirt

• Versatility: it's difficult to find a piece as versatile as the overshirt. It can go with everything, all the time and in a very simple way. It allows us to play with shapes, in particular by having the possibility of closing it (to refine its look) or by leaving it open to maintain fullness and have fun with layering. The different material options (wool, boiled wool, cotton, linen, etc.) are also a great asset when you want to vary the styles.
• Comfort: if there is one comfortable piece, it's the overshirt. As easy to put on as to take off, it allows us to regulate the temperature at all times. Nothing more effective!

The advantages of the overshirt are undeniable , but in terms of style, how to combine this piece? David, stylist at BonneGueule, gives you his advice.

"There are so many overshirts, and so many ways to wear them. Here is a selection of five looks analyzed to help you make this garment your own.

For even more inspiration, check out the Panache episode on the overshirt.

Look 1: casual chic power

We start with a look accessible to everyone. A beige velvet overshirt with a white t-shirt, navy chinos and white Converse .

The outfit plays on a tried and tested color contrast : beige, blue and white. Also note that the volumes are consistent : the overshirt is slightly loose and so are the pants.

This look, resolutely casual, has a little something elegant to me, perhaps with the dark blue pants which are a bit reminiscent of suit pants in idea.

Look 1 bis: military version

Do you like simple outfits but find the one above a little too conservative? In this case, you can focus on a more military/workwear aesthetic. The beige overshirt becomes olive green with patches.

Plain navy chinos become faded jeans. Knee holes are optional.

Converse are replaced by German Army Trainers , German army sneakers from the 80s/90s.

The composition is similar to the first look, quite simple, but the result is ultimately very different.

Look 2: we leave no one behind

An outfit with character.

The major piece here is obviously this orange-toned checked overshirt . Note that the two sides of the garment have a different color and pattern. There is still a third pattern, on the pockets and the collar, which is also worn raised for the quickdraw.

The overshirt is worn over a cream sweater: it is a good replacement for the white t-shirt when the temperatures drop.

Below, not basic jeans . This one is “worker” style with a rectangular yoke around the knee (we can imagine that this additional yoke serves to reinforce this area for manual workers, often on their knees). This element brings visual richness and differentiation from other jeans.

We can also note that these jeans are also worn with a high cuff. It's a gimmick found amongworkwear style enthusiasts.

On the feet, no Red Wing type workboots as one might imagine, but Alden cordovan moccasins . These shoes bring a slightly chic side to the outfit.

Ultimately, a very successful look where each item of clothing has its own twist.

Look 3: a weekend in the great outdoors

This is a look that I really like.

We first notice this thick flannel overshirt with a red and black tartan pattern. It is combined with velvet pants that I see green, brown half-chest boots in grained leather and a slightly thick turtleneck.

The reason this look works so well is because it's cohesive from head to toe .

First in terms of colors: ecru, red, black, green, brown. Then, in terms of materials: flannel, corduroy, grained leather, wool. Finally, in terms of the clothes themselves: thick overshirt, thick sweater, velvet pants, boots.

All this is coherent because it is very autumnal and typical rustic/country.

We can also mention a few gimmicks used which give extra style and identity to this set:

• The collar of the overshirt raised (as in the previous look)
• The shirt collar that sticks out from under the turtleneck
• The beige cap that works very well with the rest of the outfit: in monochrome with ecru and brown, in contrast with green, red and black
• Smoked lens glasses

Hat !

Look 4: streetwear style and overshirt

A fairly relaxed outfit for fans of a slightly more streetwear style.

The woolen overshirt has a pretty houndstooth pattern. It is combined with ecru pants, a pair of beige Wallabees and a velvet cap, also beige.

Under the overshirt, no very light top, since the pants already are . This Instagrammer instead chooses a rust-colored t-shirt, which adds contrast. This t-shirt is worn outside the pants, to maintain the relaxed spirit of the outfit.

For a more original combination, I would see a hoodie under this overshirt. There looks to be enough room for him to pass through. Also choose in an intermediate color, slightly faded, like here.

Look 5: minimalist monochrome

This look has two main features.

First of all, it can be considered minimalist . The clothes are fluid (especially the pants), loose (especially the overshirt), plain (not very textured, without patterns). This outfit would have a perfect place in a Scandinavian brand lookbook such as COS .

Then, it's a shades of brown. From lightest to darkest, we find:

• The sweater, ecru
• The overshirt, taupe
• Trousers, medium brown
• The bag, fawn/camel
• And the Birkenstocks, tawny

The only exception here: the hat, dark gray. This is something I see often: monochrome outfits on the torso and legs with more contrast at the ends (shoes, headwear).

Finally, you will note that the background of the photo corresponds to the colors of the outfit: there are beige and gray. This is probably intentional.

If you like shades of brown, click here and there to discover two other very successful ones."

Men's wardrobe continues to change in a world where all trends are accelerating. The overshirt has always existed. Only its form and its use are now new. To find out more about new materials, and in particular boiled wool, find an article which explains the advantages of this material for overshirts.