The overshirt, autopsy of a success

The history of the overshirt

The origin of the overshirt remains unclear. However, there are a few theories that would explain its arrival in our locker rooms.

For some, the overshirt would have appeared for the first time in the 1930s. The American Navy used it to dress the first CPO (Chief Petty Officer). It was a thick shirt with pockets on the chest. We know this date because bargain hunters of the time had managed to get some in military surplus.

Others say it is an adaptation of the BDU (Battle Dress Uniform) shirts used by the US Army as combat uniforms since the 1980s.

Last theory, the overshirt could also come from the overshirts created during the Korean War . Originally designed to combat the Korean winter, it was meant to replace the aging uniforms of World War II.

Moreover, in one of these articles, David showed you one of these historic overshirts that he had found on Brut Clothing.

Over the years, the overshirt has become part of the daily lives of some civilians. In 1990, the lumberjack shirt appeared. Thicker, it was generally worn over a t-shirt.

How can we explain the success of the overshirt?

To understand the success of the overshirt, we must delve into the clothing context of recent years.

The men's wardrobe is changing and transforming. Previously, men dressed in formal outfits. Today, the codes have changed. Our collection manager at BonneGueule remembers: “ Before, the navy blue jacket was a staple of our collections, I worked a lot on it, with several models in the collections. Now the jacket is tending to disappear.”

For Julien, this casualization came at the time when “we started to mismatch our suits, with chinos and denim.” He continues by recalling that “it was the search for everyday comfort that put the overshirt in the spotlight.”

The versatility of the piece brings a multitude of possibilities to consumers. For our collection manager “the shirt is a perfect in-between between a work jacket that is sometimes too stiff and thick and a shirt that is too light”. No matter the weather and the season, the overshirt can be a solution.

How to recognize an overshirt?

Identifying an overshirt is more difficult than it seems. Indeed, some characteristics of the overshirt have evolved.

Julien, head of collection at BonneGueule, explains the complexity of this identification: "There are a multitude of overshirt models on the market, from light overshirts to thick overshirts. The range of possibilities is enormous. The boundaries between families are extremely thin."

There are still several criteria that allow you to identify an overshirt, a work jacket or a shirt. Overview.

1. Pockets

As explained in the historical section, the origin of the overshirt is military and therefore utilitarian . It is therefore quite natural that the overshirt still retains the characteristics of its former use today.

There are several types of pockets that can be used for an overshirt. If you want to know more, Nicolò has written a compendium of the 15 pockets that transform a shirt into an overshirt.

However, a work jacket also has pockets. The confusion is such that even among our advisors: " it is not uncommon to hear talk of a jacket for our Milo overshirt (thick boiled wool)" confides Julien.

2. The cut

The overshirt is an “overcoat”, which means that one or more layers are needed underneath the overshirt, such as a t-shirt or a shirt for example. For this, it will necessarily have a straight cut, in order to maintain optimal comfort.

In terms of length, it is difficult to differentiate an overshirt from a work jacket , we are practically on the same standards. Depending on the models, there are some differences. For example, a denim jacket stops at the waist, with a more “boxy” effect. The overshirt, on the other hand, pushes the cursor a little, stopping at the top of the thighs.

3. The collar

In terms of collars, there is something for everyone. From the structured work jacket collar to casual shirt collars, the overshirt is inspired by all styles. Note that the thicker the overshirt, the more it borrows certain codes from a jacket . Conversely, the lighter the overshirt, the more it will use elements of a shirt.

The benefits of an overshirt

• Versatility: It's hard to find a piece as versatile as the overshirt. It can go with everything, all the time and in a very simple way. It allows us to play with shapes, especially by having the possibility of closing it (to refine its look) or leaving it open to keep volume and have fun with layering. The different possibilities of materials (wool, boiled wool, cotton, linen...) are also a major asset when you want to vary the styles.
• Comfort: If there is one piece that is comfortable, it is the overshirt. As easy to put on as to take off, it allows us to regulate the temperature at all times. Nothing more effective!

The advantages of the overshirt are undeniable , but in terms of style, how do you pair this piece? David, stylist at BonneGueule, gives you his advice.

“There are so many overshirts, and so many ways to wear them. Here are five looks analyzed to help you make this garment your own.

For even more inspiration, check out Panache's episode on the overshirt.

Look 1: casual chic power

We start with a look that is accessible to all. A beige velvet overshirt with a white t-shirt, navy chinos and white Converse .

The outfit plays on a tried and tested contrast of colors : beige, blue and white. Also note that the volumes are consistent : the overshirt is slightly loose and the pants too.

This look, resolutely casual, has I find a little something elegant, perhaps with the dark blue pants which are a bit reminiscent of suit pants in the idea.

Look 1 bis: military version

Do you like simple outfits but find the one above a little too prim? In this case, you can go for a more military/workwear aesthetic. The beige overshirt becomes olive green with patches.

Plain navy chinos become faded jeans. Knee holes are optional.

The Converse are replaced by German Army Trainers , sneakers from the German army of the 80s/90s.

The composition is similar to the first look, quite simple, but the result is ultimately very different.

Look 2: we don't leave anyone behind

An outfit with character.

The major piece here is of course this orange-toned plaid overshirt . Note that both sides of the garment have a different color and pattern. There is still a third pattern, on the pockets and the collar, which is also worn raised for the look.

The overshirt is worn over a cream sweater: it is a good replacement for the white t-shirt when the temperatures drop.

Below, a non-basic jean . This one is “worker” type with a rectangular yoke around the knee (we can imagine that this additional yoke is used to reinforce this area for manual workers, often on their knees). This element brings visual richness and differentiation compared to other jeans.

It is also worth noting that these jeans are also worn with a high cuff. This is a gimmick found amongworkwear style enthusiasts.

On the feet, no Red Wing type workboots as one might imagine but Alden cordovan loafers . These shoes bring a slightly chic side to the outfit.

Ultimately, a very successful look where each item of clothing has its own twist.

Look 3: A weekend in the great outdoors

This is a look that I really like.

The first thing that stands out is this thick flannel overshirt with a red and black tartan pattern. It is paired with velvet pants that I see as green, brown half-hunt boots in grained leather and a slightly thick turtleneck.

The reason this look works so well is because it's cohesive from head to toe .

First, in terms of colors: ecru, red, black, green, brown. Then, in terms of materials: flannel, corduroy, grained leather, wool. Finally, in terms of the clothes themselves: thick overshirt, thick sweater, velvet pants, boots.

All this is coherent because it is very autumnal and rustic/countryside.

We can also mention some gimmicks used which give an extra touch of style and identity to this set:

• The collar of the overshirt raised (as in the previous look)
• The shirt collar that sticks out under the turtleneck
• The beige cap that works very well with the rest of the outfit: in monochrome with ecru and brown, in contrast with green, red and black
• Glasses with smoked glass

Hat !

Look 4: streetwear style and overshirt

A fairly relaxed outfit for fans of a more streetwear style.

The woolen overshirt has a pretty houndstooth pattern. It is paired with ecru trousers, a pair of beige Wallabees and a velvet cap, also beige.

Under the overshirt, no very light top, since the pants are already light . This Instagrammer instead chooses a rust-colored t-shirt, which adds contrast. This t-shirt is worn outside the pants, to stay in the relaxed spirit of the outfit.

For a more original combination, I would like to wear a hoodie under this overshirt. There seems to be enough room for it to pass through. Also choose in an intermediate color, slightly faded, like here.

Look 5: minimalist monochrome

This look has two main characteristics.

First of all, it can be considered minimalist . The clothes are fluid (especially the pants), loose (especially the overshirt), plain (not very textured, without patterns). This outfit would have its place in a Scandinavian brand lookbook like COS .

Then, it is a range of browns. From the lightest to the darkest, we find:

• The sweater, ecru
• The overshirt, taupe
• The pants, medium brown
• The bag, fawn/camel
• And the Birkenstocks, tawny

The only exception here: the dark gray beanie. This is something I see a lot: monochrome outfits on the torso and legs with more contrast at the ends (shoes, headgear).

Finally, you will notice that the background of the photo matches the colors of the outfit: there is beige and gray. This is probably intentional.

If you like shades of brown, click here and there to discover two other very successful ones."

The men's wardrobe continues to change in a world where all trends are accelerating. The overshirt has ultimately always existed. Only its shape and use are now new. To learn more about new materials, and in particular boiled wool, find an article that explains the advantages of this material for overshirts.