Boiled wool, zoom on this little-known material

How do you make boiled wool?

First step: the yarn is selected and the wool is knitted by machine .

" We start with a knitted stitch, not a chain and classic pattern . We use a knitting machine, which will give less armor than the warp and weft ", explains Stefania, responsible for the French market for MTT, the Manifattura Tessile Toscana, an Italian company specializing in the production of boiled wool.

“ Knitting machines are not the same, depending on the fineness of the yarn and the final result that we want to obtain ”, so there are several types of boiled wool !

The knitted wool comes out of the machine in the form of tubes. The knitting should therefore not be too thick, in order to obtain a soft stitch . Only virgin wool is used. As a reminder, virgin wool is the wool from the very first shearing of an animal . The knitting is done by machine. There are several knitting techniques, which make it possible to make the fabric more or less stretchy : we obviously find jersey, but also double knitting, or “V” knitting. The initial knitting must be quite tight for optimal results .

The next step, it's felting : this is what will give this felted appearance to the wool.

The sections of knitted wool are immersed in water, in order to tighten the stitch of the knitting and to felt the knitted wool fiber : " The wool passes through the water, this is what will drape, and "open" the knitted wool, to give this appearance ,” explains the MTT manager.

“ Depending on the type of boiled wool expected, felting can last 2 minutes, 10 minutes, 15 minutes, this will have a big impact on the final appearance of the wool .” The longer the wool "felts", the tighter the knit will look with a felted appearance .

During the process, the mesh shrinks and stores air bubbles which will become integrated into the fiber. This process makes the wool lighter, softer, more elastic and stronger . Before the finishing stage, the felted wool has “ a sponge-like appearance, a little dry ”.

Last step: the finishing touches . In order to be considered boiled wool, the wool must undergo some processing . First finish on the list: staining, carried out before the final finishes.

Then, there are several choices: if you want a very elastic fabric, the wool is pressed using a machine. If you are looking for a firmer and more robust fabric, wool undergoes decatization . According to Stefania, "this is where the boiled wool finally meets its final appearance." Little anecdote, this is the second choice we made for our own supply of boiled wool .

After these transformations, the wool no longer has the same appearance at all .

At the origins of transformation

Before this little demonstration, don't hesitate to review your chemistry lessons and dive back into the theory !

Wool fiber, regardless of its animal origin, is made of keratin . All like our hair . Instead, see the proximity between the two:

When wool is mixed with hot water and beaten (mixed vigorously), its fibers soften and then bond together .

This agglomeration is favored by the wavy shape of the fibers , and by their scaly surface (the scales cling to each other).

Thus, the knitted wool tightens thanks to humidity . We obtain a solid, plain, elastic fabric. Aesthetically speaking, fulling gives texture to the material, which takes on grain and thickness .

In addition, during felting, the wool will store air which will “ slip between the fibers ”: this is what will give this insulating aspect to the boiled wool .

You know us, at BonneGueule, we love these materials. See instead:

Good to know, the Milo navy and green overshirts will be restocked at the beginning of October. And we also have a new color planned. Ideal for staying warm.

The benefits of boiled wool

After the felting process, boiled wool is a transformed product, with many benefits . Small exhaustive list of the characteristics of this noble material .

• To the touch, the material has small roughness . Julien, the head of the BonneGueule product division, tells us that "the Italians talk about “ three-dimensionality ", it is a raised fabric, with its very sought-after texture and roughness . It is difficult to find these characteristics on the chain and classic plot ”.

• It is a durable material , which does not fray or degrade. “ It’s durable, it’s a material that is both strong and flexible, which is perfectly suited for upper layers ,” explains Emilie, quality control manager for BonneGueule clothing.
  Thanks to this robustness, boiled wool is easily cut, which opens up the field of possibilities. For example, we can make raw edge cuts , which is more difficult to do for other textiles.
  According to MTT, boiled wool is a good asset for designers and small brands: " A designer can make a coat in boiled wool without having to make a lining, and it does not require too much sewing. It is a difficult material to master, but creators can do a lot of things ."

• On the other hand, according to Stefania, boiled wool has its particularities: “ Unlike warp and weft fabrics which have a weave, boiled wool is an item that moves. Depending on the parameters of where you are, the wool will change .” Indeed, boiled wool can change size : in a humid place, the knitted fabric can absorb 50% of its weight in humidity , and reduce in size.
  To be able to work with boiled wool, you need a little experience , and above all a dry place . “ If we design clothes in boiled wool, we need a suitable factory, otherwise it’s a problem ,” announces Stefania.
  Émilie confirms: " it's a material that relaxes. When you work with boiled wool, you have to let it rest dry after cutting, because you can have unpleasant surprises ."
  To conclude, “ you need some experience to work with boiled wool ” warns Stefania.

• Boiled wool keeps you warm . For Julien, " the advantage is that you have both elasticity , which allows the garment to gain comfort and at the same time, you have this insulating and swelling side. Few materials have these properties . On the other hand, it's not the most breathable material ."
  Stefania confirms: “ boiled wool is both warmer and more comfortable than polyamide or polyester .”
• Finally, boiled wool does not crease or get dirty . Indeed, wool has a low static electricity which repels dirt . Practical !

And what about women’s fashion? - Nawal's point of view

In my opinion, boiled wool is one of the essential materials in women's wardrobes for the fall-winter season. I will not return to its advantages and disadvantages, these technical points having already been addressed by Yann in the rest of the article. So I'm going to focus more on the style . By its appearance, boiled wool immediately adds a touch of high-end and elegance to a look. It also allows you to play with the textures of an outfit to give it relief , without the thickness and volume of traditional wool .

It is also a good element to adopt to soften a look that we consider too raw. For example, it can mix wonderfully with leather pants or a skirt - pieces with a strong statement that can be difficult to wear .

Boiled wool is found on a large number of women's coats , to which it gives a beautiful hold, while remaining comfortable and protecting from the cold . It is also available on skirts, especially those with a straight cut, to which it gives structure .

We also find boiled wool on one of my favorite accessories for the fall-winter season… the beret ! Once again, it helps maintain the shape so typical of this headgear. Its texture also brings an authentic, almost rustic touch to the beret.

You now know a little more about the issue. The time of abundance being over, boiled wool is undoubtedly one of the materials that will keep us warm this winter. We bet ?