Disclaimer - Laurent is one of our long-time readers (and friends). As he didn't have any alligator hunting planned last month, he spontaneously offered us this very nice article. And we thank him for it!
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Ah the shoes… According to some, it is essential to have at least two pairs: one brown, for a slightly smart outfit; and a black one, to go with formal occasions.
For others, it's more a great story of love, know-how and shoe polish. To satisfy the latter, they need: Richelieus, Oxfords with a bib, full brogues, balmorals, double buckles, brodequins, ankle boots with brown, cognac, burgundy buttons, in grained leather and, finally, in leather cordovan.
In cordovan?
With a pair like this, how can you not fall in love? 🙂
You have surely heard of this term, “cordovan”, which is often used to designate horse or foal leather. But make no mistake, because behind this name hides a whole history and know-how that I would like to show you in this article.
From Spain to the United States
Etymologically speaking, the term “cordovan” comes from “cordobán” which means “from Cordoba” (Córdoba in Spanish). At the end of the 16th century, cordovan was used to designate goat leather treated with vegetable tanning. This leather was used by Cordoba artisans to make wall decorations, chests and even ornate armor.
It was only from the 19th century that the word cordovan was used to designate horse leather. The Germans, who mastered the art of tanning cordovan, called it “Spiegelware”. This word literally means “mirror merchandise” (“Ware” meaning merchandise and “Spiegel” meaning mirror) and refers to the shiny appearance of leather when it is polished.
It was at this same time that German and Dutch tanners moved to the United States, where they perfected tanning to make cordovan more flexible and, therefore, suitable for making shoes.
A legendary cordovan tannery
Nowadays, when we talk about cordovan, the name of a tannery immediately comes to mind: Horween. This produces the majority of cordovan found on the market. The tannery perpetuates the tradition of tanning this leather, and its seal is considered a guarantee of quality. It was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween and is today run by Nick Horween.
When it started, Horween mainly produced cordovan leather used as razor sharpening leather. However, with the invention of the disposable razor, demand collapsed and the company had to diversify its offering.
The Horween cordovan tannery
(more photos here, with an excellent report in English on the tannery!).
Since then, Horween's clients include large houses such as Alden (its largest cordovan leather client since 1930), Crockett & Jones, Visvim and Allen Edmonds. Leather for shoes represents around 60% of their sales. The remaining 40% concerns the sale of sports equipment. Indeed, Horween is the official supplier of the NFL and the NBA, working with Wilson for the production of American footballs.
Leather for sharpening razors.
Worldwide, there are very few tanneries that produce cordovan. The Japanese have a certain reputation on this subject and the name Shinki-Hikaku often comes up. Cordovan tanneries also exist in Argentina and ANCA is one of the representatives.
The cordovan, or the skin of the buttocks (of the horse)
As said previously, the term “cordovan” is often used to designate horse leather. It is also used to designate a color that tends towards dark burgundy – blood red, characteristic of this leather. However, in the world of shoes, cordovan refers to what is called “genuine shell cordovan”.
Genuine shell cordovan is a leather extracted from a subcutaneous layer of the horse's rump. This can be compared to a kind of cartilage and has no pores.
From a horse hide, we obtain two small ovals of leather, measuring approximately 0.3m². Each oval allows you to build a shoe, or even one and a half at most...
We can clearly see the shape of the two ovals on these rump leathers.
We can thus deduce the following equation: 1 horse = 1 pair of cordovan shoes, which explains its rarity and, consequently, its very expensive price.
Cordovan is treated with vegetable tanning, during which the leather slowly soaks up oil, for a period varying from 6 to 9 months. By comparison, chrome tanning lasts between 24 and 48 hours. Moreover, thanks to its high oil content, cordovan has a strong waterproofing capacity.
Like suede calfskin, cordovan is worked on the flesh side, which makes it, in a way, more supple. This is especially felt at the level of the folds which look more like waves. Last but not least, this leather has the particularity of being extremely resistant and it is not incongruous to say that a pair of cordovan lasts a lifetime.
In summary, and comparing it to box calf (chrome-tanned calfskin, which would be the most similar), here are the characteristics of cordovan:
- Its durability and solidity
- Its natural shine
- Its folds (be careful, cordovan has a reputation for pleating a lot)
Houses offering cordovan leather
Due to its rarity and cost, few houses offer cordovan shoes. However, if you find yourself in Paname, you will have the opportunity to tour the shops and admire these famous shoes.
Alden
He is surely the most recognized bootmaker when it comes to Cordovan. Founded in 1884 in Massachusetts, Alden is one of the flagship brands in the United States, along with Allen Edmonds. Among its most renowned products, we find moccasins, but especially the famous 405 model.
Little anecdote: the 405 model is commonly called “Indy boots”, because they were worn by Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones. It was the actor himself who chose them, having worn them when he was still a carpenter on film sets.
A very beautiful model of cordovan ankle boot from Alden,
with the very characteristic color of this leather.
American-style shoes, Alden shoes are generally quite wide. If you are used to rather tapered shoes, move on.
You can find them at Manfield, FrenchTrotters as well as Anatomica in Paris, and at Endclothing and UpperShoes on the Internet. If you don't find what you're looking for, you can always try ordering from the official Alden e-shop. The price for cordovan ranges between €700 and €800 (yes, I warned you).
An ankle boot that you will find at Anatomica. By the way, the Aldens you will find there are models specially produced for the store. They are based on the “modified last” form which is wider than the usual range .
Carmine
Carmina enjoys a very good reputation in forums specializing in shoes, such as DePiedEnCap or EnGrandePompe , both in terms of the quality of the materials and the assembly. I wouldn't lie to you about the fact that I also really appreciate this house (it was after purchasing cordovan boots from them that I was motivated to write this article).
In terms of shape, Carmina shoes are more tapered than their colleague Alden and, therefore, more elegant. As for the origin of the cordovan, Carmina also sources from Horween.
Here are some gorgeous ankle boots that you can wear with both denim and suit pants (with a cuffed hem for those in the know). Note that the sole is made of dainite, a solid material and above all very practical in the rain.
And here is a very beautiful double loop model for amateurs.
To wear to the office, like on the weekend.
Carmina also offers cordovan models in very original colors in temporary collections. It's a sublime pair, but one that will have to be worn (not in the office, of course).
Finally, another pair of brogues, in a slightly less flashy tone. This ruby color is really superb, and will go very well with gray or blue pants .
If you are interested in shoes in general, I strongly encourage you to visit the boutique located on avenue de l'Opéra in Paris. You will be able to discover their vast range of cordovan, but also box calf, which are really worth the detour. Regarding the price for cordovan leather, it ranges from €525 for shoes to €600-640 for ankle boots.
Seventh Width
Septième Largeur is a house founded by Marco Fernandez, the creator of the Markowski brand that we recently presented to you (you can also sometimes find them there). Although their cordovan range is much less extensive than Alden or Carmina, it remains no less interesting.
Moreover, and unlike them, Septième Largeur sources its cordovan leather from Japan. Quite rare and worth noting, the bootmaker offers natural cordovan shoes for skating.
In terms of form, it is the happy medium between Alden and Carmina,
with a dark burgundy color, characteristic of cordovan.
As with a box-calf pair, you can request a personalized patina for your cordovan shoes .
Note that the gray-black patina lends itself very well to cordovan.
As for the price, it ranges between €495 for low shoes and €645 for high tops. As with Carmina, I encourage you to visit their store in Paris, where you will be warmly welcomed (and the owners have an encyclopedic knowledge of shoes).
Crockett & Jones
I would like to finish my selection on this prestigious English house, very appreciated by our colleagues, the Jo Brothers .
THE best seller from Crockett & Jones, the Chukka .
The Cordovan range is limited to a single pair of moccasins in France. However, she is much richer in the UK.
Simple, but effective, and above all solid derbies .
By far my favorite, cordovan full brogue ankle boots:
a very virile model for real man's leather.
So, should I buy a cordovan pair?
Yes, yes, yes and a thousand times yes! If you don't have the budget, sell all your possessions, mortgage your apartment, dump your wife and, if necessary, sell your organs.
Well, more seriously, it’s obviously a matter of the heart and the budget. But given the extreme lifespan of these products, it is a worthwhile investment.
In addition, a pair in cordovan will reveal its true beauty over time, when its patina has taken hold. To do this, however, you will need to be patient, because this leather has a reputation for not moving. And unless it's love at first sight, I would advise you to wait until you have acquired a few pairs of more classic and less expensive shoes, before tackling cordovan, which I remind you, is expensive.
If you decide to purchase a cordovan pair, here are some care tips. In terms of equipment, you will need:
- A horsehair brush ( example here )
- A special cordovan cream ( example here with Saphir, and Carmina also)
Here is cordovan's best friend: the brush.
Although water resistant, cordovan is a fairly capricious leather in the rain, with the slightest drop of water causing a blister. To remove them, simply scrub vigorously with the brush. After a little while, the stains will disappear. It is also with this same process that you will maintain your cordovan pair daily, because it will restore the leather to its natural shine. As for the cream, apply it from time to time, or after a heavy downpour.
A few final words: if you haven't yet done so, I strongly encourage you to read Romain's article on the different kinds of leather , as well as the different leather tanning processes.
