In this meeting within the Readers' Mail, I talk to you about brands. And each time, three brands in particular:
- Favorite : a brand that I really like at the moment, whose collections I look at with envious eyes.
- Spotlight : a brand that has not been mentioned or barely mentioned on BonneGueule. A discovery in short.
- Brand news : discuss recent news about a brand regularly mentioned in our columns, which you probably know.
Previous episodes can be found here:
- Mr.P, Löf&Tung, De Bonne Bille: April 2020
- Nigel Cabourn, Rewoolution, ABCL: May 2020
- Hansen Garments, Archibald, Heschung: June 2020
- Peregrine, Casatlantic, Suitsupply: October 2020
- Anglo-Italian, Tonton et Fils, Paris Yorker: November 2020
1. ❤️ Current favorite: Scott Fraser Collection
I realize that apart from our selection of favorite costumes , we have not spoken in more detail about the brand in our columns.
Scott Fraser Simpson is an English designer who created his brand, Scott Fraser Collection (abbreviated SFC) in 2013.
He takes somewhat forgotten pieces from the last century and brings them up to date.
His creations are divisive, but there is no denying that the style proposition is unique .
The iconic piece of this wardrobe is, in my opinion, the loose, high-waisted, pleated trousers, taken from the 1940s and 1950s:
These are the kind of pieces I want to wear right now. : where some will see a large mass of fabric that blurs the legs and makes the torso disappear, I see rather a majestic and harmonious volume, which highlights.
For example, pants that sit above the hips can hide love handles. Another example: if you have bowed legs or good thighs, volume at the bottom balances your silhouette.
Here's an example of a pair of Scott Fraser pants integrated into a simple, versatile outfit:
Some pants, like the Classic Wide-Leg Trousers, are made to order, so you can choose the fabric from dozens of available ones.
The second very identifiable and atypical product at SFC is knitwear: we find all sorts of cardigans with shirt collars . The inspiration this time comes from Italian polo shirts from the 1950s .
It's a type of clothing that intrigues me rather. It speaks to me a little less but my curiosity is piqued. Maybe I'll let myself be tempted one day, who knows?
Finally, I would like to mention a more sober item of clothing: the donkey coat , a wool jacket , taken from an English work jacket .
The shape is simple and original at the same time since it is uncommon. It will appeal to most people:
I couldn't talk about all the pieces, but you'll also find Cuban collar shirts with great patterns and colors, or a cropped sweatshirt, designed to be worn with high-waisted pants.
In addition to the stylistic touch, there is also a real quality approach at SFC, with the use of beautiful natural materials and garments made in Italy or England.
While he may not please everyone, Scott Fraser has his own brand and his own personal account .
2.💡 Spotlight: Crownhill Shoes
Given the many comments on shoes that I answer each week, I think this brand will interest you.
I discovered Crownhill by going to the Poszetka website recently, who distributes them.
What I saw on their eshop I really liked:
Crownhill Shoes offers affordable shoes (under €200), made in Spain, with leathers from renowned tanneries.
Regarding the price, the site is a little capricious: if you see €250 during your visit, you have to change the delivery country at the top of the page.
Once placed in France, you get the price below €200 that I mentioned: €185 for the most accessible range.
First of all, I find the offer to be inspired : it's classic but not boring, especially thanks to the use of slightly lighter or brighter colors. There are quite a few burgundy models, for fans.
The shapes are also well worked: nothing too sharp or too massive. This is a good point in this price range.
For the construction, it's mostly GoodYear. You'll only find a few models in Blake stitching, in small sizes.
Also, Crownhill offers a wide choice of models, colors, shapes.
Which is a very good thing because when you are looking for good shoes under 200 or 250€, the list of brands is reduced and your choice too. So if you are looking for a very specific shape or color, you may not find it. Or maybe it is out of stock in your size.
Speaking of choice, we can also note that the brand offers three extra-wide models, suitable for stronger feet:
In addition to the classic offer under 200€, you will find a premium range around 300€ with better leathers and more careful manufacturing.
I find Crownhill's offering to be competitive in the entry-level shoe market.
We will forgive the French translation of the site, which is more than approximate. Do not hesitate to switch the site to English if you are fluent in the language of Shakespeare.
3. 📰 Brand news: Orban's
Let’s continue our momentum and talk about shoes again.
Orban's is a shoe brand that I have appreciated since its creation in 2015 by Marcos Fernandez and his partner Victor Bastié. For an affordable price, you have:
- Shoes with classic but controlled shapes
- European leathers (sometimes French) and Spanish tailoring . The models I saw were all of respectable quality.
- Most pairs are available with leather soles or rubber soles.
As mentioned in the previous part, the main criticism that can be made is that the collection is tight and very classic. It sometimes lacks a little variety, more original pairs.
This is why I look closely when the brand offers thematic capsules, whose style proposition is often stronger.
The last two caught my attention.
"Burgundy" collection
Jordan sometimes says that burgundy or wine red is a very versatile color for shoes . A nice alternative to brown. I can only agree with him.
However, the offer of burgundy shoes is not plentiful, especially when you go under 250€.
And that's where Orbans' capsule comes in: six pairs of burgundy shoes in smooth leather. €195 for the low ones. €225 for the high ones.
I find the shade of burgundy well chosen, pleasant to the eye and quite easy to wear because it is rather dark.
Norwegian stitched collection
Norwegian stitching is renowned for its strength and increased water resistance compared to Blake and GoodYear stitching.
But what is a Norwegian stitch?
Jordan explained this type of assembly in his article on sustainable shoes.
The Norwegian stitch is a cousin of the GoodYear assembly.
The similarity lies in the double stitching and the welt system.
The difference lies in the placement of the seam connecting the welt to the upper and the wall: it is horizontal and crosswise, meaning it will be visible on the outside of the shoe.
The welt will therefore have two visible seams.
The Norwegian construction is even more robust and waterproof than the GoodYear construction, but also gives the shoe a slightly more massive aesthetic.
Where this construction is found from 300/350€, Orban's offers twelve pairs of Norwegian-welted shoes at a more affordable price : 195€ for low shoes, 225€ for high shoes, and 245€ for fur-lined high shoes.
At this price it's quite a bargain.
Here are two pairs whose aesthetics I like: