In this meeting with Le Courrier des readers, I talk to you about brands. And each time, from three brands more precisely:
- Favorite : a brand that I really like at the moment, whose collections I look at with envious eyes.
- Spotlight : a brand that has been barely mentioned on BonneGueule. A discovery in short.
- Brand news : discuss recent news from a brand regularly cited in our columns, which you probably know.
Previous episodes can be found here:
1. ❤️ Current favorite: Scott Fraser Collection
I realize that apart from our selection of favorite suits , we have not spoken in more detail about the brand in our columns.
Scott Fraser Simpson is an English designer who created his brand, Scott Fraser Collection (abbreviated SFC) in 2013.
He takes somewhat forgotten pieces from the past century and brings them up to date.
His creations are divisive, but we cannot deny that the style proposal is unique .
The iconic piece of this wardrobe is, in my opinion, the loose, high-waisted, pleated pants, taken from the 1940s and 1950s:
These are the kind of pieces I want to wear right now
For example, pants that sit above the hips help hide love handles. Another example: if we have bowed legs or good thighs, volume at the bottom balances our silhouette.
Here is an example of Scott Fraser pants integrated into a sober and versatile outfit:
Some pants like the Classic Wide-Leg Trousers are made to order: you can choose the fabric from dozens available.
The second very identifiable and atypical product at SFC is knitwear: we find all kinds of cardigans with shirt collars . The inspiration this time comes from Italian polo shirts from the 1950s .
It’s a type of clothing that rather intrigues me. It speaks to me a little less but my curiosity is tickled. Maybe I'll be tempted one day, who knows?
To finish, I would like to mention a more sober garment: the donkey coat , a wool jacket , taken from an English work jacket .
The shape is simple and original at the same time since it is unusual. It will please as many people as possible:
Available here
I couldn't talk about all the pieces, but you will also find Cuban collar shirts with strong patterns and colors or even a cropped sweatshirt, designed to be worn with high-waisted pants.
In addition to the stylistic touch, there is also a real quality approach at SFC, with the use of beautiful natural materials and tailoring made in Italy or England.
Failing to please everyone, Scott Fraser has his brand as well as his personal account .
2.💡 Spotlight: Crownhill Shoes
Given the many comments on shoes that I respond to every week, I think this brand will interest you.
I discovered Crownhill by going to the Poszetka website recently, which distributes them.
I really liked what I saw on their eshop:
Crownhill Shoes offers affordable shoes (under €200), made in Spain, with leathers from renowned tanneries
Concerning the price, the site is a little capricious: if you see €250 during your visit, you have to change the delivery country at the top of the page.
Once put on France, you obtain the price below 200€ that I mentioned: 185€ for the most accessible range.
Price before changing country of delivery
Price once you indicate that you are in France
First of all, I find that the offer is inspired : it's classic but not boring, in particular thanks to the use of slightly lighter or brighter colors. There are in particular quite a few burgundy models, for amateurs.
The shapes are also well worked: nothing too sharp or too massive. This is a good point in this price range.
For construction, it's mostly GoodYear. You will only find a few models in Blake stitching, in small sizes.
Also, Crownhill offers a wide choice of models, colors and shapes.
Which is a very good thing because when you are looking for good shoes under 200 or 250€, the list of brands is reduced and so is your choice. So if you're looking for a very specific shape or color, you may not find it. Or out of stock in your size.
Hard toe derby in tan suede leather. You can't find an equivalent elsewhere at this price.
Speaking of choice, we can also note that the brand offers three extra-wide models, suitable for stronger feet:
Here you can see the extra space on the sides of the shoe.
In addition to the classic offer under €200, you will find a premium range around €300 with better leathers and more careful tailoring.
I find that Crownhill's offering is competitive in the entry-level shoe market.
We will forgive the French translation of the site, which is more than approximate. Do not hesitate to switch the site to English if you master the language of Shakespeare.
3. 📰 Brand news: Orban's
Let’s continue on and talk about shoes again.
Orban's is a shoe brand that I have appreciated since its creation in 2015 by Marcos Fernandez and his partner Victor Bastié. For an affordable price, you have:
- Shoes with classic but controlled shapes
- European leathers (sometimes French) and Spanish tailoring . The models that I saw were all of honorable quality
- Most pairs are available with a leather sole or a rubber sole.
As mentioned in the previous part, the main criticism that can be made is that the collection is tight and very classic. It sometimes lacks a little variety, more original pairs.
This is why I look closely when the brand offers thematic capsules, whose style proposition is often stronger.
The last two caught my attention.
“burgundy” collection
Jordan sometimes says that burgundy or wine is a very versatile color for shoes . A nice alternative to brown. I can only agree with him.
However, the range of burgundy shoes is not overwhelming, especially when you go under €250.
And this is where the Orbans capsule is positioned: six pairs of burgundy shoes in smooth leather. 195€ for bass. 225€ for the high ones.
The whole offer in one image
I find the shade of burgundy well chosen, pleasing to the eye and quite easy to wear as it is rather dark.
Norwegian stitched collection
Norwegian stitched is renowned for its robustness and increased water resistance, compared to Blake and GoodYear stitched.
But what is a Norwegian sewn?
Jordan explained this type of assembly in his article on sustainable shoes.
Norwegian stitching is a cousin of GoodYear stitching.
The similarity is in the double stitching and the welt system.
The difference lies in the placement of the seam linking the welt to the upper and the wall: it is horizontal and through, that is to say it will be seen on the outside of the shoe.
The welt will therefore have two visible seams.
The Norwegian assembly is even more robust and waterproof than the GoodYear assembly, but also gives a slightly more massive aesthetic to the shoe.
Where we find this construction more from 300/350€, Orban's offers twelve pairs of Norwegian-stitched shoes at a more accessible price : 195€ for low shoes, 225€ for high-top shoes, and 245€ for high-line fur-lined shoes.
At this price it's quite an excellent deal.
Here are two pairs whose aesthetic I like:
Brown grained leather derby with commando sole: elegant and slightly rustic
Black hunting toe boots , with its characteristic platform seam
