Selection: the editorial staff’s 6 favorite costumes

Suit - Scott Fraser Collection - David

I have a confession to make: I don't currently own a costume.

I have nice sports jackets and nice dress pants but they don't make a set.

In my research, the problem often comes from the pants which I find do not receive enough attention: they are often flat front , with belt loops, fitted, low waist.

This type of pants does not suit me and does not suit me. I prefer pants that are a little more sartorial, classic .

You can find suits with looser, more detailed pants from brands like Thomas Farthing or Hansen Garments for example.

For this selection, I chose this Scott Fraser Collection suit.

Recently discovered on Instagram, the English brand defines its style as “ retrospective modernist ”.

Well, on this particular costume, the spirit is much more retro than modern.

Pants high on the waist , very straight , with two clips, clamping tabs and integrated strap buttons definitely goes in this direction. An ode to the Hollywood Pants of the 1940s and 1950s. It speaks to me.

The jacket, also classic in style, nevertheless seems to be constructed a little more lightly than before.

This inspiration is an opportunity for me to return to more classic tailoring.

Classic but not austere, far from it: look at this material. A wool and silk blend in a discreet gray enhanced with a luminous white speckling .

English material, English tailoring, possibility of choosing jacket and pants in different sizes, option to add a vest... the promise is great.

There's just one thing that catches my eye: the 3-piece suit, £760, costs less than the 2-piece, £860. Probably a mistake, but one that might encourage one to have fun.

A woolen ensemble - A King of Guise - Jordan

A jacket, a jacket, an overshirt, a Get an idea .

Here are the pants with a loose cut and sliding belt.

This is not a costume. And, no offense to Magritte, it's not a pipe either. But that's really not the point.

It is not a costume in the sense that we usually give it, namely an ensemble dedicated to a formal context. However, it is a suit in the strict sense of a complete jacket and pants made from a single material.

So is it one or not?

I would say to you: is that really the question? Do we really need to put labels on everything? Is life really worth living if you don't live it like a dream?

I don't have the answer, please excuse me. I'm already having a hard time deciding what I'm going to eat tonight.

All I know is that in a context where casual is increasingly gaining ground, the suit is changing.

The lines are moving! And what we believed to be true yesterday is no longer true today. Costume moves from the sphere of social obligation to that of pleasure. I mean that in the future, those who wear the costume, formal or not, will do so for pleasure above all because the relaxation of the rules in this area will have abolished its blind and systematic wearing in despotic contexts. It promises disparate class photos, I think it's good news for freedom of expression in clothing.

This could give silhouettes in this style:

I anticipate the future and therefore present to you the new costume. The costume of tomorrow. The one we will wear with a smile. And no, it's not a costume. Finally Yes. Well, whatever you want.

This one comes from A Kind of Guise , a German brand that I secretly admire. Sometimes when sleep doesn't come, I go to examine the brand's current collection. Still the same feeling. The products feel good. We feel the creativity dawning in every detail without ever going beyond the fact that these are first and foremost clothes to wear in real life.

I'm waiting for the sales and when I go to the site to cut myself a slice of happiness from the AKOG cake, I see that there are only crumbs left. So frustration. As a result, arms fall. So I leave upset but always come back the next season.

But back on topic.

The set is made in Germany from Italian wool. In addition, the material has a discreet houndstooth pattern which dresses its wearer and stands out without disguising.

The double zip is also a detail that I appreciate. Useful when you sit down without wanting to open your jacket.

These two products are not even presented as a costume on the e-shop. And it's a wise decision. Who in their right mind would want to buy both to make a costume? However, my eye spotted the similarity of the two fabrics and my sick mind formed the plan of uniting them on the same body. Mine preferably! But I'm not jealous, you can use yours to project yourself.

I would wear the simplest thing in the world : a t-shirt or a turtleneck in winter and moccasins or simple sneakers. The color part is still to be determined.

Last thing on leaving: yes the cut of the samurai pants looks crazy. And please believe that I rarely use the adjective “crazy”. It's even the first time and, hopefully, the last.

Notice to amateurs.

Double-breasted suit - Husbands - Benoît

Navy striped tennis suit - Suitsupply - Nicolò

Just once, I'm going to cheat a little with the rules of this selection.

Because you see, I never buy ready-to-wear suits.

Far from me the idea of ​​showing a form of snobbery, in reality, it is a very pragmatic calculation : those who have already been able to read one of my costume tests know that I have a body shape which requires enough alterations so that in the end, it is often in my interest to go directly to half-measures.

But then, how can I inspire myself first? How do I know what I want if I only buy costumes that “don’t exist yet” when I buy them?

Well I'm inspired by ready-to-wear. And for once, you will hardly find a choice of fabric as varied, extensive and original as at Suitsupply.

I browse their shop, and little by little, I see what I want most in terms of stylish fabric...

And if I have never hidden my love for slightly more daring suit fabrics , this year, I realize that I am going to return to things that are a little more classic! A beautiful tennis stripe on a navy blue background, a classic structured shoulder, or even natural. Single-breasted, classic notch lapel...

Simple and effective, a model from Suitsupply . The character will come from the other pieces, rather than the costume itself.

This will be the costume that I would use as a sober “base”, and to which I would give its character via accessories, the shirt or even other twists. Typically, I can see myself wearing a turtleneck under such a suit this fall and pairing it with my Common Projects in beige suede nubuck.

I would probably wear it a bit like that. Maybe without a pocket square, and with a turtleneck that isn't tone-on-tone. Or with a shirt, but worn with a slightly “strong” tie.

Tartan patterned suit - Thomas Farthing - Michel

Even if it means spending 10 minutes putting on a suit in the morning, you might as well do things thoroughly.

Here is a set that will not leave anyone indifferent. For good or bad, its tartan pattern will have the merit of surprising and I like that.

It's the costume we wear to show that we're not shy, but above all for fun, of course.

To work at La Défense, it's lost. But to proudly display his pleasure in getting ready, he will be there.

I also suggest it to you because I find that its thick wool twill has bite and that its colors are well chosen. A daring but very well executed mix of green and purple. Who would have thought they could live in harmony?

Also, it’s a three-piece that’s easily mismatched. If you know your way around, with this jacket alone, these pants or this vest, I think you can do wonders.