Nigel Cabourn, Rewoolution, ABCL: May 2020 – CDL#61

1. ❤️ Favorite of the moment: Nigel Cabourn

Lookbook Spring/Summer 2017. Heddels

Nigel Cabourn is a brand that I sometimes come across on high-end multi-brand eshops, as well as on the Marrkt platform, which I presented to you here .

I recently took a closer look at it, the collections, the DNA, the style and I admit I was amazed.

What I like most is this vision of workwear style with beautiful, very raw materials, very precisely chosen colors, beautiful volumes.

An example :

This Nigel Cabourn patchwork hunting jacket inspired blazer is pretty incredible.

The work is sharp, almost obsessive on the details , with numerous references to the clothes of yesteryear.

For example, you will regularly find a central rear tightening tab on the brand's pants. , a detail that I have seen very little in contemporary pants.

This tab was present on the original Levi's jeans and, associated with the wearing of suspenders, served to keep your pants in place at a time (from 1872 to 1922) when belt loops did not yet exist. :

Stylistic, practical detail that pays homage to the very first jeans.

You will find four ranges at Nigel Cabourn:

• Authentic , which is the classic range, made in England
• Mainline is a small capsule using specifically Japanese materials and tailoring
• Lybro , a little less expensive thanks to Chinese manufacturing. Lybro is a heritage workwear brand created in 1927 and taken over by Nigel Cabourn.
• Army Gym , a more sportswear range

A rather short sweatshirt with a boxy cut and wide ribbed edges.

Prices are high at Nigel Cabourn (count €200 for a shirt or €200 to €400 for pants for example), a consequence of the sophisticated style research, the high-end materials used and the predominantly English tailoring.

You will nevertheless find the brand's products discounted at various resellers without too much worry.

And in all cases, in my opinion, it's a brand to follow , if only for the sake of style, to get a bit of an eyeful.

2.💡 Highlighting: Rewoolution

I've been spending a lot of time on Yoox lately, looking for new pieces for my spring/summer wardrobe.

I admit I like getting lost in these thousands of sometimes strange clothes, and managing to find good deals or make discoveries, as is the case with Rewoolution .

So I was looking for merino t-shirts on Yoox, then I came across this brand.

Intrigued, I inquired and discovered that it is a brand belonging to Reda with a complete range of clothing only in Reda Active fabrics: t-shirt, leggings, shirt, liner, jackets... there's everything.

The essential merino t-shirt available in a wide range of colors, material weights and sleeve lengths.

The brand's purpose is generally quite sporty , but if you dig a little deeper, you can find designer pieces that can fit well into city outfits:

Here, the style statement is interesting. A green shirt with a vertical zipped pocket. 100% Reda Active merino, of course.

You will also find some pieces with a more advanced design:

I wouldn't know how to wear this jacket, but I find its design well studied and its proportions harmonious. Always 100% merino wool.

The brand's entire collection is made in Italy.

Thus, the mid-range prices are consistent given the place of manufacture and the quality and traceability of the materials used: count on a little less than €100 for a t-shirt or leggings, for example.

The more exterior pieces (jackets, jackets) logically cost more but have real added value: padded jackets equipped with a waterproof membrane and a 100% merino wool exterior, it's a very niche product and it's not in short supply. really not the streets.

In any case, if you are looking for high-performance clothing, with ultra-thin merino fibers: this should satisfy you.

3. 📰 Brand news: ABCL Laboratorio

We regularly mention the ABCL Garments brand in our columns: the collections are always very beautiful, carefully made in Japan or Italy, with beautiful Italian or Japanese materials.

The prices are accordingly: count for example 150 and 200€ for a shirt.

What you probably don't know is that Mattia recently launched a parallel range to ABCL Garments called ABCL Laboratorio.

The promise is simple: beautiful shirts at an affordable price. €69.99 to be precise.

At this price you have a small selection of white shirts in poplin, oxford or Giro Inglese.

Find the history of the Giro Inglese here .

What I find interesting about the approach is that in addition to the fabrics and the price, there are four variations:

• Two cuts: one regular and one slim
• And two collar constructions: classic and soft constructed . While the so-called classic collar will be a little more structured, rigid, for a more formal look, the so-called soft constructed collar will be more flexible, soft, with an iron-on and a lighter interlining, for a more relaxed, nonchalant look.

For information, the confection is Chinese.

I couldn't find a lookbook or photos showing the product being worn. You can nevertheless count on a precise size guide, allowing you to get a very good idea of ​​the differences between the two cuts.

In any case, I'm curious to see the continuation of this project, with perhaps other colors of shirts or even other pieces?