In this article, we will follow the adventures of Roger, who spanned the centuries from the birth of Department Stores to today .
Yes, Roger is immortal and he has many things to tell us.
"Delighted !"
And where it interests us is that our dear Roger has witnessed a whole bunch of interesting changes in the way of selling clothes: large distributors appeared then disappeared, even though they had everything to last decades.
Because as Darwin said:
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent. He is the one who knows how to best adapt to change.
Having a great project is good, but it is not enough to be visionary or a pioneer for it to work in the long term. We must continually be alert, adapting to changes in society and new consumer habits.
Why am I telling you this? Because it is a problem that does not escape the fashion and luxury sector, quite the contrary.
And Roger was a privileged witness to this.
For example, Printemps has had to adapt to the structural changes that have taken place since its birth in 1865.
Remember, Printemps celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2015.
How did he do it? And what are the current challenges of a department store like Printemps? Roger helps us understand...
The frenzy of department stores and the end of specialized stores
1865: a revolution in retailing
First, Roger was frustrated: he, who likes to dress, was able to see that the first upheavals were primarily reserved... for women.
It's total frenzy, they're all jostling in this vast and completely new place! Roger's wife, Madeleine, returns very enthusiastic from her first experience at Printemps.
“But why does she enjoy spending her money?” Roger thinks absently, facing his wife.
Why such excitement?
Until then, Roger and Madeleine only get their supplies from small local shops.
Here is an archive photo of the current Rue Vieille du Temple, photographed by Charles Marville in 1858. We can see the small shops and in particular a hairdressing salon on the left.
When they go through the door of a butcher's shop, it's to buy a piece of beef; from a poultry merchant, to buy a chicken; from a haberdashery, to buy buttons to sew on the blouse that Madeleine is making herself.
In short, when they enter a business, there is a purpose. Each store is specialized and you don't leave without something. The exchange is cold, cordial or sometimes warm, depending on the mood of the trader.
And above all, the price is decided “at the customer’s discretion” . Roger is starting to get tired of never knowing if he's being cheated or not.
So obviously, the opening of the department store on the corner of the street which offers a whole bunch of different items, from haberdashery to beauty, including food, is intriguing! This is the first time that a store is not specialized!
In addition, another major revolution: prices become fixed and displayed on labels, the large volumes offered allow prices lower than the competition and entry is without obligation to purchase !
Finally we can go to the store “just to see”! Finally we can walk peacefully without having the pressure to buy something!
Roger's wife, like a good bourgeois Parisian
Department stores or "novelty stores" then represent a real meeting place - almost a party - for a woman who hardly goes out.
The women wander, chat, walk... We are in a real living space which allows social exchange.
This is the first successful step for department stores, which are managing to overcome their own condition of a place solely reserved for transactions.
When Madeleine tells her husband about her journey through the different departments, all organized like small worlds with a specific universe and products, when she talks about the beauty of the place... her eyes still shine.
But Roger, all that escapes him a little.
He understands, he imagines, but he prefers 1,000 times to go to his tailor, Mr. Artaud, whom he appreciates and in whom he trusts completely. That day, he came to try on a shirt ordered 4 weeks previously. Thoughtful, Roger confides to his tailor:
It's madness in these department stores Monsieur Artaud. You should see this, they are all crazy.
A few years before, in 1852, it was Le Bon Marché which gave birth to the concept of a department store . The first to truly embody this commercial revolution, by offering various goods in a single, large location.
Le Bon Marché was the first department store to be born in Paris under the leadership of entrepreneur Aristide Boucicaut.
1878: from sales to experience
These department stores, with their neat appearance, create something new in the relationship with the consumer. They no longer just seek to sell products directly but to make customers dream by giving them a unique experience.
Aristide Boucicaut, founder of Le Bon Marché, declared that he wanted to sell “desire itself”. And it works ! Madeleine likes to walk between the shelves to observe, compare products, admire, indulge... She is gradually abandoning specialized stores, if only to no longer have to haggle prices with the little ones. tradespeople.
From the architecture of the building to the interior design, everything is designed to attract customers. This is the very beginning of marketing and advertising. We can also see the origin of our current consumer society.
Paul Sédille is the man behind the architecture of the building. The photo shows the store in the 1880s after its renovation, following a first fire.
Roger, who is starting to get a little jealous, wants to go see what is happening across the street, because he has heard some good news for him.
He joined Printemps, which had just installed its first department for men in 1878. Before, nothing existed for men.
He wanders through this vast, stunning place until he comes across this section of men's clothing. A master tailor is putting together a suit jacket, another is taking the measurements of a little man on a stool and others are chatting.
Frankly, he's not quite convinced yet. Why abandon his local tailor for the same service, with people he doesn't know? Perhaps even less competent, in fact.
Until about the First World War, things remained this way. Department stores will continue to attract many women like Madeleine, while the conquest of men will take place more timidly ... and a little later.
But like we said, Roger is immortal. He knows deep down that, in several generations, he will also be entitled to an offer adapted to his desires.
1930: from tailor-made to tailoring
The First World War gave rise to the first uniforms with standardized sizes. This still little-used technique is given the name “confection”.
At the same time, Roger becomes a modern man, concerned about his elegance . It gradually detached itself from the austerity that characterized men's clothing until then.
Here is the portrait of a notable dating from 1870. Notice how the outfit doesn't really leave room for fantasy. The cuts are wide and black predominates.
And Roger is delighted because he was heard by Printemps!
In the 1930s, Printemps had an entire building dedicated to men in order to facilitate their purchases and save them time
Men's clothing ready to buy! A revolution for Roger!
This new concept called "Brummell clothing" is a new innovation from Spring which even precedes the official beginnings of ready-to-wear , which only really appeared in the 1950s.
A great innovation in men's clothing. The cut, the details, the materials... everything is more fashionable.
But what does that mean, concretely?
We are talking about a suit available immediately, in different established sizes. The cut is elegant, fashionable, and the price attractive, thanks to the mass production carried out in the production workshops located north of Paris.
So Roger, seduced? He still has some reservations:
Let's just say that I still wonder how this suit will fit me, since they are not my measurements...
Don't worry Roger, that's the principle. The measurements correspond to average standards to reach as many people as possible.
Roger finds that it doesn't fit as well as tailor-made but frankly, "it's fine". The cut remains very correct and above all, he does not have to wait 4 weeks!
Until then, Madeleine reproduced herself (or had her seamstress reproduce) Haute-Couture models detailed in fashion magazines. The men called for moderation. It is therefore a real change taking place in the way we consume clothing.
Department stores reached their maturity phase in the 1950s/1970s , managing to demonstrate innovation while adapting to the major developments of the time: the industrialization of the textile industry (notably thanks to the appearance of the sewing machine at the end of the last century).
In 1951, Printemps consisted of four buildings, two escalators, twenty-two elevators, a terrace, a hairdressing salon, a tea room, a theater and travel office, a photo studio and a library. In short, you can spend the whole day there.
Department stores specialize in luxury
Like the Grands Magasins du Louvre, La Belle Jardinière or La Samaritaine, not all of them will survive the century. Particularly those who have strayed too far from the strategy of expansion and innovation that has made them successful until now.
As you might expect, this will not be the case for Spring. Major works were carried out in 1968: Brummell became the most modern and largest men's store in Europe with 6,400m2.
That gives Roger space, and choice too!
1970: the arrival of shopping centers
The 1970s marked the advent of mass consumption. Roger and Madeleine, who are rather a wealthy couple, are not going to buy equipment in department stores. The same goes for everyday products.
For that, now there is even more practical and cheaper: supermarkets.
Le Printemps with Prisunic, Galeries Lafayette with Monoprix… these are the department stores that introduced the concept of single-price sales to France
In short, we will have to find how to continue to attract Roger and Madeleine, while "Casinos" and "Leclercs" are pushing the leisure shopping experience even further than department stores with ever more restaurants, product diversification, children's parks and even cinemas!
These “super centers” will very quickly be able to sell you EVERYTHING!
To adapt, we will have to differentiate ourselves. Isn't adapting to change what Darwin advocated?
The department stores will then begin a fundamental reflection: their customers came above all to dream, so how can we continue in this direction?
By becoming a showcase of luxury, of course!
Le Bon Marché first, followed by Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, will specialize in this sector. This means pushing the in-store experience ever further, coupled with the exclusivity that characterizes luxury.
Concretely ? Everyone is working on renovations or expansions. We are redoubling our efforts and resources for the scenography, from the interior furniture to the exterior facades, including the famous windows.
In 2001, an entire floor was dedicated to "Printemps du Luxe", the brand's new department. There you can find fine jewelry and all the luxury/designer brands still present today.
Everything must be big, sumptuous, sparkling... We want to continue to inspire dreams through a luxury image. Even in the hairdressing salon, which still exists!
All this will give department stores the prestige and cultural dimension that contribute to their reputation today. Particularly internationally.
So no Roger, he doesn't go to Printemps regularly anymore but he has become very familiar with the idea of going there to find a nice shirt or a nice pair of shoes.
The brand no longer wants to differentiate its two stores: Brummell was renamed "Le Printemps de l'Homme" in 1999 (even if the own brand for men still bears this name).
2000: the loss of momentum of department stores in the face of the transformation of luxury
Yes, but here it is: new era, new challenges.
The new luxury: direct distribution, transparency and proximity to the customer
Even luxury, which we often imagine as timeless, conservative, immutable, transforms and adapts. Yes Yes !
The 2000s were marked by the desire of new players to make luxury more accessible . What was once reserved for a privileged few is now within the reach of many.
Declining quality, distribution in thousands of points of sale around the world, sales, clearance sales... historic luxury brands inspire less and less new generations of consumers in Western countries.
We must therefore restore consumer confidence.
The Web also has something to do with it : these new consumers (you), more educated about the product than previous generations thanks to blogs and forums, trained from an early age to no longer trust advertisements and celebrity marketing, are looking for something else.
Roger is nice, but he is no longer found in luxury chains and department stores. He becomes more and more nostalgic for the closeness he had with his tailor at the beginning of the last century and his explanations of the products.
And then, there are too many choices, too many brands, too many products that do not meet a real need...
In short, he feels lost...
On the other hand, new actors have understood what Roger's thing is now.
The last 10 years have seen the emergence of a new generation of brands. Born from the digital world, transparent, even militant, close to their consumers, and often distributed directly (= without intermediaries), they have been able to adapt certain codes of luxury to today's world.
The best known in the USA are Rapha, Everlane, Lululemon, Bonobos, Warby Parker, and Glossier. In France, My Little Paris, FrenchTrotters, then Tediber, Gemmyo, Seagale and BonneGueule are their equivalents. Roger and Madeleine love it.
For Roger, it is becoming more and more difficult to buy a product twice as expensive in a department store, when he could find an equivalent from one of these brands.
For example, since Roger is very old, he needs glasses.
And he heard about Warby Parker. More than a high-end eyewear brand, the brand is a reference in terms of “stores of the future”: the objective is to offer a unique experience.
More than a store, we enter a living space , with books everywhere in large libraries, a lounge area... and even a Photo Booth!
Roger finds out about the products and talks with the seller. He finds good quality products, in-depth advice, a certain vision of the world, all in a relaxed atmosphere.
Like department stores in their early days, Roger is not forced to buy. In a world saturated with new brands, new products, with notifications in every direction, above all we want him to feel good there, to enjoy staying there and to form a real bond. with the brand and its community.
These brands know that producing dreams and a great experience are no longer enough: we must now create a real relationship, based on substance, with concreteness and values.
These are the new challenges for luxury brands today .
Meanwhile in department stores...
10 years seems like a long time said like that.
Except that 10 years is a very short time in terms of consumer trends, especially for big players. By the time such a trend is detected and reacted, it is already well established.
And a consumer trend is something very profound. Nothing to do with a fashion trend where you just have to renew the offer.
To address a consumer trend, everything must be re-imagined , from the recruitment policy of companies to their offer, including their service, their spaces, the training of their salespeople...
In short, a big project...
You will have understood, all these changes resulting from digital and developed by small economic players have arrived so quickly that the traditional players are necessarily a little behind.
They must now succeed in catching up with the moving train...
2017: the revival of the Spring of Man and why BonneGueule is participating in it
On paper, the unique experience was born with department stores. The relationship of trust too, thanks to fixed prices and explanations of the product. Practicality too, with the tidy shelves where you can quickly find what you are looking for.
This is what department stores want to find today, particularly Printemps, with a pharaonic project which has just been implemented: the new Printemps de l'Homme.
Renew and improve the in-store experience
For this, Printemps moved to the place of Printemps Beauté Maison , in the historic building on Boulevard Haussmann.
FYI, the Men's ground floor (currently still occupied by Beauty) will open in a few months, while the move is finalized.
Le Printemps' particular ambition is: more explanations on the products, better trained salespeople, more space, a more modern website... so many points that must be taken into account.
Kаrеn Vеrnеt, the director of the Homme du Printemps market sums it up well (in Le Figaro):
The more men know where they are going, the more they feel like they are scrounging up precious minutes during shopping moments that are not their favorite pastime. And the longer they stay! They have a different relationship from women to clothes and stores. They like comfort, quality, safe values. They need to feel confident and at ease before they can be drawn into new worlds, more cutting-edge fashions or emerging brands.
Everything has been redesigned around that. Le Printemps de l'Homme now extends over 5 floors - soon to be six, for a total of 11,000m2 -, with alterations or concierge services, information, but also where to have a drink, have fun, visit what remains a historic place...
...or discover a new architectural concept.
As Paolo De Cesare, CEO of Printemps, also said in the Fashion Network:
We are not a shopping center. We want to give new reasons to come to Printemps, other than just buying.
But where Spring really renews itself in my opinion, it is in the selection of brands, more specialized and in accordance with this new vision that they have...
A selection of good brands for men
The offer is really extensive. We now find a large number of international designers but also brands that we really like at BonneGueule , namely:
- Uniforms For The Dedicated,
- Momotaro,
- Etc.
These brands as well as BonneGueule are all gathered on the 3rd floor, the creative energy floor.
There are also ephemeral installations , so that store visitors always find new things to eat: multi-brand spaces which are regularly renewed within the store, ephemeral collaborations with designers, or even the concept store created by The Good Life which offers books, art objects, design and then of course, a selection of clothing.
A BonneGueule pop-up store present for 6 months
It is with this spirit of renewal that Printemps contacted us last year.
They explained to us the observation they made about the man's old store and their concrete redesign project. And they asked us to participate.
The interest for them is to partner with a digital player to bring people into the store , by offering us a space of our own. And in passing, to associate their image with that of a growing digital player.
Here is an overview of our corner.
The problem is that we have always been convinced that BonneGueule should not have a wholesale distribution strategy: that is to say, not offering our clothes anywhere other than our own e-shop and in our own shops. And we are still convinced of it!
Because wholesale is a strategy with certain risks for a digital brand like BonneGueule. If it becomes very large, it can create dependence on distributors. We also have to be careful to train each person on our products to stay strong on the brand experience and advice (that's why Paul is in charge of the corner). And obviously, the margins are not the same, and this is an important point because it determines the destiny of a brand.
But then why did we join forces with Printemps?
To begin with, we really felt on the same wavelength with Kаrеn Vеrnеt and Even Thou (the two people in charge of the market and men's purchases respectively). This is of course very far from being sufficient for such a project, but it still remains absolutely necessary in the way we operate.
Moreover, Printemps really played the game by offering us a space that was both visible and under financial conditions that were favorable to us, despite our reduced margins .
We even had the right to put our plants!
But more concretely, this 6-month experience in a Parisian corner, and some Printemps in the region, will allow us three things:
- Reach a new audience . Most of the "Rogers" in France know us well, but not everyone is like Roger. Many men are not interested in men's fashion sites. So it’s up to us to take a step towards them. This corner is a bit like a scout ship for us. Test the waters with a new audience, different from that present on the Web.
-
Testing new cities in France . The other mini corners are already in Lille and Marseille
. They will allow those who do not live in Paris or Lyon to try our clothes. This may help us determine where to set up a new BonneGueule store with the minimum of risk.
- Give us a real international guarantee . We still have a lot of projects in France but the influence of Spring will allow us to reach more Swiss, Belgians and Germans passing through, which are the 3 countries in which we want to make the site known.
Very important point, the corner will be held by Paul . But not just any one. Paul Marty is a new friend who we welcome into the BonneGueule adventure. Some of you have already met him in the Marais boutique, during his training months.
He is above all a BonneGueule reader, a clothing enthusiast and you can, as usual, ask him all your questions about sizes, cuts, quality, and anything that makes you happy or is of service to you!
Don’t hesitate to ask him any questions that come to mind!
Finally, I want to be very clear on this because there are always those who worry when we do something new
Our objective is therefore not to place our clothes in all multi-brand stores in Europe, especially not!
But if we can occasionally make new people aware of quality clothing, without creating economic dependence and without affecting BonneGueule's margin structure, then we must do it : it is right in our mission to help men to feel good in their clothes.
Now, don't hesitate to ask us any questions you have. We will be happy to answer them and it will undoubtedly be an opportunity to further enrich these explanations :).
