Disclaimer (by Geoffrey) - I have been interested in the history of Department Stores for a while. These are establishments more than a century old, which have brought about major developments in men's fashion (such as industrial measurement) or the way in which it is distributed (fixed prices on labels, mail order sales).
Today we find a varied offering (like its customers), after a big slump in the 2000s and head-on competition from high-quality multi-brand stores like Frenchtrotters in Paris (we'll talk about that again soon).
However, we have recently seen a revival among certain department stores. With a very specialized offering at Le Bon Marché, and above all many designer brands at Printemps de l'Homme ( Dockers , SNS Herning, Topman...).
We therefore proposed a partnership with Le Printemps, alongside our friends Modissimo and Matérialiste , to promote both the new brands and the renewal of their ship: Le Printemps (no, it won't talk about Qatar ). And this ephemeral partnership will be the subject of a future article.
In the meantime, we were able to meet Xavier Gaudemet who is, in a way, the historian of Printemps. This meeting allowed us to learn exciting things about the history of the store... all the more interesting when we see them in the light of today's trends (return to authenticity and healthy relationships and frank with customers).
Spring: a man's story!
Spring, the time of year when the sun begins to appear again, when the coat and scarf that kept you warm are getting ready to take a well-deserved rest.
In short, I'm not here to talk to you about rain or shine, but about its namesake: the department storeLe Printemps .
Geoffrey and I went to meet Xavier Gaudemet. He’s a bit like “Mr Spring”, he knows his story like the back of his hand. Created in 1865, this department store has changed through the ages: we might as well tell you that its history is rich in lessons.
We have learned a lot, both from the history of Printemps and from the evolution of the men's market since the 19th century. Rest assured, you will not have a surprise test, the idea is not to give you a boring history lesson with a succession of dates like we all had (or that you still have) 😉
“E probitate decus”: my honor is my probity
The motto of Printemps, imagined by its founder Jules Jaluzot, caught my attention. Is she throwing it away, or is she a little pompous? Basically, are words followed by deeds?
Jules Jaluzot, the founder of Printemps.
At that time, there was no marketing bullshit , no smoke and mirrors, or almost nothing: we were in the authentic realm. The promise made to the customer, we strive to keep: we are in the truth and in a long-term relationship of trust. But access to fashion and the ability to dress well is not given to everyone. Only the elite and the wealthy classes can afford it.
This is why Jules Jaluzot had original objectives for the time:
- making Printemps an essential place for fashion and the avant-garde . Casually, he had a nose because at the time Boulevard Hausmann was undergoing major changes (no Opéra Garnier, nor St Lazare station, just the secondary district, even a bit of wasteland).
- an experience of beauty : the customer had to have a unique relationship with the point of sale, which was not the case before.
- accessible luxury : prices 15 to 20% cheaper than in stores.
The honesty approach is also reflected in price tags on clothing . Yes, it seems strange but before they didn't exist. The garment was negotiable, and the price was therefore up to the customer.
I perhaps know what you are saying to yourself behind your screen: “ well you are very nice Florian but we are not on BonneGueule to read a presentation on Spring …”
I know, and you are right. The scene is set, take a seat in Mc Fly's Dolorean: let's take a trip back in time!
One for everyone!
Conquering human space !
I'm not telling you anything by telling you that women's fashion was already much more developed than men's fashion.
In Spring, the first scissors dedicated to men were made in 1878 with the appearance of the clothing department. At that time, the ready-to-wear that we all know today did not exist (I will come back to this). The practice is tailor-made and half-measured. But no great madness either: a model (complete costume) was offered for sale in 1890.
We are therefore only at the beginning of the human market, we are testing, we are groping. In short, we're taking it slowly. What seems unthinkable today, was completely true at the time: department stores like Printemps have no legitimacy on the men's clothing market . The square is occupied by boutiques and local businesses. It was the time when everyone went to see their local tailor. Things have changed a lot since then.
Note: In 1993, independents (small boutiques) still represented 50% of the European clothing market, whereas in 2006 their market share fell to 22% and continues to decrease in favor of specialized chains. A figure that sends shivers down your spine.
The tailors retain the wealthy clientele, with whom they have established a mutual relationship of trust thanks to their know-how and their privileged relationship (good merchants with customer awareness).
Credit: a tailor's workshop for men in the first half of the 19th century, colored lithograph (Museum Europäischer Kulturen, Berlin).
La Belle Jardinière, a novelty store specializing in clothing, is already well established. It attracts the lower middle class (this name probably means nothing to you and that's normal). It’s not easy for Spring to find a place for itself.
La Belle Jardinière in Paris on the right (currently the Conforama and the headquarters of Louis Vuitton) and La Samaritaine on the left (closed since 2005) are also part of the Department Stores.
La Belle Jardinière: the brand specializing in 19th century clothing is present throughout France (here in Nancy).
Nothing new until the First World War. Le Printemps gradually continues to expand its men's collection.
After the First World War, things accelerated. Men's fashion is becoming less austere and more sophisticated. The cut of the suits is also intended to be closer to the body.
Beyond style, lifestyles are changing. We are trying to save time. For example, men no longer want to spend too much time at a tailor where measurements are long and tedious. This is what the Printemps store looked like in the 1920s.
Following the fire of the New Store, the Provence Annex, which served as a warehouse, was transformed into a store and was gradually dedicated to people from 1922. By the way: not bad architecture for a warehouse.
In 1921, Printemps launched its brand for men with the suit, otherwise known as a “jacket suit” or “suit”. Today, we also talk about a 3-piece suit consisting of a vest and a suit (jacket + pants).
A fairly modern cut for the time, the result of careful tailoring. But the “Printemps” suit fails to impose itself. His main reason? Spring is too associated with women and does not resonate with men.
Extract from a catalog with titles full of common sense: “luxury is a question of money, elegance is a question of taste” (totally agree and all the more true today)
Who says consumer looking to save time, says adaptation of the offer to meet the needs and expectations of customers . In this logic, Printemps is separating itself from many suppliers and investing in its own manufacturing workshops.
The famous Spring workshops. FYI, Clichy is located near Paris.
A geographical location that saves time and responds to trends!
Handwork is very present, we are far from today's industrial production. The quality suffers.
Little by little, Printemps realizes that it can impose itself on the men's market.
This is how the Printemps men's brand: Brummell was launched in 1930. A name borrowed from the fashion designer at the court of George IV and one of the spiritual fathers of dandyism. His extreme refinement (it was said of him that he polished his boots with champagne) gave him the title of " arbiter elegantiarum (arbiter of elegance)" at the British court.
A choice of name quite relevant for the time as Brummell embodies the masculine elegance that the new Printemps brand wants to reflect.
An advertisement from the time representing the image of the brand:
“a dandy in the attitude of happy self-satisfaction”
Note that the famous poster artist of the time Leonetto Cappiello signed this poster. Even though it has been stylized since, the dandy is still the brand's logo today. And yes, the brand still exists and remains the only department store brand to have persisted despite its clear decline since the 90s. Afterwards you should know that it is really large in size and is aimed at an older clientele than the typical reader by BonneGueule.
From its first steps in the 1930s, success was quickly achieved.
The success was such that in 1937 accessories brands made in Printemps were created.
(the prices may seem ridiculous but the standard of living has nothing to do with today, inflation has been there).
An extract from a catalog of the time. It's raw and without net, the man knows what he's buying.
We can clearly see that certain codes and manufacturing techniques have stood the test of time thanks to old clothing houses (which we can sometimes talk about on BonneGueule). They have been able to preserve their know-how. These houses are generally unknown to the general public because they are often suppliers of high-end and luxury brands.
The cut is certainly more fitted today but know this: we no longer invent anything or almost nothing these days.
What is Brummell clothing?
Pierre Laguionie, who succeeded Jules Jaluzot (having left Printemps in 1905), was also a visionary. He knew how to catch the train in time: the transition from tailor-made to half-measure, even to the beginnings of ready-to-wear. Let me explain.
To save time, he implemented a faster and standardized manufacturing method. In each measurement, there were 5 arrangements and 5 possible lengths: more than 260 different sizes to adapt to all body types (I'll let you imagine the number of references).
Each model was immediately portable, which is what appealed to a good number of men. Unlike the tailor where the customer had to wait several weeks. This may seem totally normal to you, but at the time, it was much less so.
On the quality side, Brummell offered artisanally manufactured clothing whose production processes have been optimized, while working with very good quality fabrics. Cheaper than a tailor for roughly similar quality: it was good value for money.
The Thirty Glorious Years: Brummell's peak
The post-war era until the early 1970s was marked by strong economic growth and access to mass consumption. I will spare you the details that you already know thanks to your dear history teachers.
Sectors of activity are industrializing and so is men's fashion. In 1952, Printemps launched the “Brummell measure”, that is to say “made-to-measure at the price of ready-to-wear”. This is a bit of what is coming back into fashion with the proliferation of brands positioning themselves in this niche. Remember the tests of Saint-Sens , Emmanuel Berg or even Surmon31 .
At the time the delivery time for the costume was only 4 days. Proximity is good. Even today, we’re not doing as well!
The 2 services offered by Printemps via Brummell:
the “ready-to-wear” collection launched in the 1930s and the Brummell measure of the 1950s
The year 1952 was also marked by the creation of the Brummell brand (it is no longer just a simple brand). The Provence Store aka the Spring of Man today (you saw it at the top of the article) takes the name of Brummell Store. This era of mass consumption pushed Printemps to simplify its offering. In their early days, department stores offered all kinds of items (from food to fashion to household appliances).
The bet paid off, Brummell established itself as the essential men's fashion brand in other department stores.
1970 to 1990: the madness of marketing and communication
At that time, Le Printemps was the only department store, via the Brummell Store, to have a space entirely dedicated to men. The men's market is still underexploited: ten times fewer stores for men than women.
To stand out, brands including department stores will use marketing concepts to attract consumers. To better understand, the series Mad Men, which takes place in the 60s in New York, illustrates this era quite well in my opinion. These were the beginnings of mass advertising and the search for identity and a strong image within brands.
The Brummell store, which had become too small and dilapidated, was expanded and renovated in the 1960s.
The Brummell Store in the 1950s (before the work).
Its expansion project.
The famous works.
And that’s the job! Are you beginning to recognize the Spring of today's man?
For the record, the facade chosen was chosen for its timeless character which reflects the Brummell image. We still have 1380 marble slabs from Italy. Marble was in vogue at this time, it was coveted for its beauty and nobility. Again, today is a different matter.
You may be wondering why there is a daisy in B? Excellent question, let’s talk about it!
The Logo common to Printemps and Brummell. As I said, we are starting to take into account the need to impose a strong brand image (which continues today but in another way).
The stylized daisy is present in both the P and the B to accentuate the family bond. We understand that Printemps sees things big and wants to establish itself as a giant in the sector. Especially since a neighbor emerged in 1969: the Galfa Club (Galeries Lafayette Homme).
The interior of the Brummell Store in the 70s. It's colorful (pop colors) and the daisy is omnipresent!
You will have understood, we are in the middle of the disco years.
More seriously, Printemps communicated under the dual Printemps / Brummell brand: the first for women and the second for men.
Le Printemps continued its development in the 1970s by exporting to France, such as Toulouse for example: this was the creation of the Brummell chain. By the way, I forgot to specify it but Brummell was a multi-brand then, just like Printemps de l'Homme today.
Today: a very different situation
In the 90s, Brummell gradually bowed out. The announcement of decline can be felt, for example, in advertisements. Brummell is less and less highlighted and gives way to Spring.
Printemps is now associated with a mixed brand, and the Brummell brand no longer has any reason to exist. In 1999, the Brummell Store became the Printemps de l'Homme that you know today . But Brummell is kept as the men's brand of Printemps.
From a stylistic point of view, the brand is quite classic and competition is tough with high-end brands in the sector like De Fursac. Unlike the time when the brand marketed rather “fashionable” clothing, currently Brummell's clientele is mostly in their fifties.
Today, the Clichy workshops no longer exist (they were subsequently the headquarters of FNAC for a long time). Brummell has not escaped the wave of production relocation but the quality of the costumes remains correct.
You should know that currently, it is difficult to produce in France and have a competitive sale price. One of the reasons? Labor is simply more expensive than elsewhere for equivalent know-how even if recognized specialties are still preserved in France such as Millau glove making for example.
This is why production has largely internationalized across Europe (especially for the high-end). Countries that are generally less wealthy in which this relocation of production has gradually transmitted quality know-how. Thus, I am regularly surprised by the quality of production of Polish and Romanian workshops, whose know-how sometimes has nothing to envy of an Italian workshop.
The magnificent windows of Printemps Homme that Geoffrey really likes .
