File: Nanamica, from Japanese craftsmanship to urban techwear

A regular reader of BonneGueule and now a contributor as No. 10, I had a surprising thought a few weeks ago: we haven't had the opportunity to discuss Japanese fashion in detail since 2013.

Far from being limited to selvedge textiles, the latter is characterized by a complex sensibility that blends aesthetic concepts, Western influences and centuries-old know-how. Methodically presenting the inner workings of the Japanese clothing world quickly seemed excessive to me: from the street to the most prestigious fashion shows, it brings together many constantly evolving trends.

Wishing to remain playful while avoiding excessive vulgarization, I suggest you accompany me in the discovery of three major contemporary Japanese labels: Visvim, Orslow and Nanamica .

During our journey, we will explore together the universe of the rising sun: its philosophy, its inspirations, but also its many specificities which make its strength today.

Before we begin, let me ask you a question: in winter, do you, like me, have trouble reconciling comfort and elegance?

A wool coat or chunky knit may be excellent companions when temperatures drop, but they are less effective than technical pieces like down jackets .

The problem is that these pieces designed to withstand the cold often have a clumsy and motley look, transforming their wearer into Bibendum. And some mornings, when the thermometer is at its lowest, many of us adopt the "onion strategy".

This logic of accumulating layers has been the norm for centuries, but recently, science has shaken up the rules . After 1945, the golden age of consumption saw many military innovations applied to civilian use: the nylon of American parachutes was made into jackets, NASA moon boots helped tame Everest, etc. Now, new materials far exceed the performance of natural fabrics .

At a time when, hand in hand, the chemical and textile industries are working miracles , men's fashion had to take on this new challenge: to combine style and comfort, without compromise, in any situation. With Nanamica, it's done .

Nanamica, thirty years of innovation

A recent brand? It’s a long story!

Nanamica was not officially launched until 2003, but its origins can be traced back to the early 1990s.

As a young engineer at the sports equipment manufacturer Goldwin , Eiichiro Homma was passionate about the technical innovations of the Gore-Tex company, whose Japanese representatives he met on a daily basis.

Noted for his professionalism and meticulous attention to detail, Homma quickly made a name for himself in the Japanese sportswear design world and met many outdoor clothing manufacturers. He was appointed head of Goldwin's marine division, responsible for designing perfectly waterproof products.

Working closely with The North Face laboratories and close to factories specializing in the development of innovative fabrics, the future creator of Nanamica acquired significant experience in the composition of pieces resistant to the most extreme conditions.

Alongside his professional activity, Homma closely monitors the evolution of men's fashion in Japan.

Japanese designers, astonished by the perfection of Christian Dior's "New Look" in the early 1950s, remained trapped in an inferiority complex with respect to Western designers for a long time. But in the early 1980s, designers like Hanae Mori and Hiroko Koshino enjoyed great success. Their collections, which combined European influences and local traditions, were applauded in Paris and New York.

Now, claiming one's Japanese identity is no longer a taboo but a source of pride : a new generation of Asian creators is about to assert themselves on a global scale.

Motivated by this true national triumph, he matured his personal project: to create an independent brand, combining his experience as a textile technician with traditional Japanese know-how . In the early 2000s, this idea found a name: Nanamica, literally The House of the Seven Seas , in reference to the old name given by sailors to the oceans.

Multiple and original influences

The brand's outdoor philosophy is obviously drawn from Homma's many contacts with Olmes Carretti .

A pioneer of artistic work on pieces for sports use, he is responsible for many innovations in the world of fashion: a new approach to the functionality of clothing, a fusion between aesthetics and technicality and the use of garish colours, previously reserved for professional clothing.

Added to this is the admiration of the founder of Nanamica for the second generation of Japanese designers: the legendary Yohji Yamamoto , but also Rei Kawakubo or his disciple Junya Watanabe within the label Comme des Garçons .

In his office, Homma finally gathers military and sports archives dating back to the beginning of the 20th century: American uniforms, hunting outfits or first climbing equipment. Each functional detail is meticulously analyzed.

The premise is simple: while the technical characteristics of sportswear make them extremely practical pieces for everyday use, they are aesthetically limited and cannot be used with more classic pieces.

Furthermore, in the early 2000s, traditional fashion seemed unable to effectively integrate new features into pieces intended for urban use. Discussing this problem in an interview with Canadian boutique HAVEN in 2014, Eiichiro Homma said:

Many designers use sportswear, military or workwear as a key source of inspiration for their menswear pieces. Unfortunately, the vast majority of them simply transpose details from these influences into their collections without questioning their real usefulness or the reason for their existence. At Nanamica, we want to know why these details matter in order to give them real meaning.

How does Nanamica reconcile technical capabilities and tradition?

A particular attachment to local aesthetic codes

Homma chose to collaborate with the designer Takashi Imaki: in 2003, he offered a collection combining the latest textile technologies with a deliberately refined stylistic universe.

Japanese buyers recognize themselves in the high-end details of Nanamica products, which respect the codes of wabi-sabi . This philosophical concept derived from Shinto praises imperfect beauty, born from the work of time . It can be defined in opposition to Western aesthetics based on symmetry and the quest for eternity.

Technology at the service of classic pieces

While they were very successful on the national market, the Nanamica collections diversified from 2004 to include increasingly daring creations.

Let’s discover together two of the brand’s flagship pieces: the CoolMax t-shirt and the Cordura bag.

These two tops are made with an identical CoolMax architecture. Composed of a blend of technical polyester, this material is based on a fiber that is four times more breathable than classic cotton.

On the left, this top is intended for purely sporty use: garish blue color, contrasting armpits, patch sleeves... Impossible to integrate it into your wardrobe!

On the right, this Nanamica T-shirt is a relevant piece as a first layer in winter, under a shirt or a big knit for example. Its technical composition allows you to better manage sudden changes in temperature or efforts, for example if you take the bike to get to class (late, like me).

Little anecdote: while stripes have been shunned by Western fashion for several years, they are often used by Japanese designers, particularly in the workwear movement.

The brand also attaches particular importance to the design of bags and luggage in Cordura. This fiber, developed by the chemical company Dupont De Nemours, is primarily intended for the civil and military industries.

Widely used in the design of uniforms, it comes in different categories ranging from simple nylon canvas to high-end wool blend. With an abrasion resistance up to 20 times higher than classic cotton , Cordura guarantees Nanamica bags exceptional durability accompanied by a very interesting patina.

Nanamica's international rise: a consecration

New audiences attracted

Things have only recently started to get serious for the brand. With the opening of sales to the European and North American markets, Nanamica has considerably expanded its audience and established itself as a must-have in the Japanese men's wardrobe.

Presented for the first time in Europe at Pitti Uomo in 2010, the label has enjoyed a strong craze marked by its distribution in the most prestigious Western boutiques: End in Newcastle, The Norse Store in Copenhagen and Très Bien in Malmö.

The mastery of technical fabrics and the purity of lines impresses a European market in full transformation: labels like Norse Projects or Maharishi are only just reaching maturity.

Given the success of the “Seven Seas” brand, Eiichiro Homma chose to limit the number of points of sale in order to maintain impeccable quality. For the designer, maintaining a privileged relationship with his customers is an absolute priority: “a face-to-face exchange, eye to eye.”

A brand that continues to evolve

Nanamica is growing, it is also maturing. The guidelines are becoming clearer and particular attention is paid to internal finishes , guaranteeing optimal comfort of use: for example, it is one of the first labels to systematically dedicate an internal pocket to smartphones, in addition to the wallet pocket.

This stylistic evolution can be illustrated by comparing the different editions of the “Cruiser Jacket” over the collections. A cult piece of the brand, this winter jacket becomes more sober from year to year.

In about ten years, Nanamica has become one of the main representatives of Japanese fashion in Europe. The collections evolve each year towards products with ever more advanced technical capabilities .

Strengthening cooperation with local Japanese industries, Eiichiro Homma wants to further highlight their immense professionalism in production.

The Nanamica Style: Easy Pieces with Character

We have just discussed the history of the brand together: its influences, its development, its technical particularities... Now, I offer you an overview of its aesthetic universe.

We will be looking at the main lines of six outfits entirely composed by Eiichiro Homma. Taken from Nanamica's lookbooks, their primary function is to convey the spirit, the vision of clothing defended by the label.

However, they are full of details that can be used on a daily basis and very interesting ideas for developing your style.

The effectiveness of simplicity & the play of volumes

The outfit on the left is a great illustration of the qualities of a beautiful wool coat in a winter outfit. Here, the raised tailored collar really energizes the whole thing. This pea coat also brings a maritime touch that gives a stylistic direction to the look. When you put together your outfit of the day, it is easier to select a key piece , then build a set around it using basics.

Using a pair of matching gloves and ankle boots is not insignificant: they establish a subtle contrast with the rest of the outfit , give it a slight sophistication and structure the proportions. Behind these clean cuts lies the use of very specific materials: a Windstopper pea coat ensuring increased comfort in bad weather, or a CoolMax shirt regulating heat.

On the right, it's a lesson in mastery, both in cuts and colors. The lagoon green is softened by natural tones. The three-layer layering would seem very massive if it were associated with a semi-slim beast: the carrot cut balances the volumes.

The width of the cuts brings real comfort to the outfit . This is a variable too rarely exploited by European brands, and it's a shame. The "Soutien Jacket" in Gore-Tex provides protection against the rain and can be adapted to many circumstances: we imagine it worn over a suit during mid-season rains.

Mixing Styles & Understanding the Potential of White Pants

The first set navigates between two universes. We can see several Western sartorial details there but different elements bring a "workwear" touch . The absence of shoulder padding creates a natural line, reinforced by the rolled-up sleeves, revealing a blue oxford shirt that ensures the link between elegance and nonchalance. The sobriety of the colors reinforces the versatility of the outfit: this is its strength.

Now, let's take a look at summer looks. Essentially lighter, these incorporate Western codes with a very Japanese originality. Fortunately, wearing white pants is not reserved for Italians!

Here, it fits in casually with a nice pair of Paraboot . The bronze-coloured Gore-Tex raincoat, combined with an ecru sweater, subtly breaks the monotony of white. The ribbing of the sweater is truly an essential element of this outfit: it discreetly highlights the proportions at the waist, where a belt would bring a more significant demarcation.

Generous cuts - typical of Japanese designers - are welcome: white trousers chosen too slim limit the immense potential of this piece. The comfort of the volumes could also have allowed the addition of an intermediate layer: a denim jacket or a thrift store M65, for example.

Integrate patterns without overdoing it & dare to use yellow

This assembly demonstrates an excellent mastery of the gingham pattern, which is sometimes tricky to match. Built around a relatively daring jacket, the outfit plays on blue and white tones to create a visual harmony, avoiding too much . An interesting little detail: notice the two chest pockets, which structure the jacket by emphasizing the shoulder line.

The cuts, more classic than for the previous examples, are judiciously adjusted to the mannequin: with a dominant pattern, make sure you have pieces perfectly adapted to your morphology . The socks, important, recall the colors and highlight the shoes. The hems could nevertheless have been made lower.

The color yellow is too often underestimated in the male wardrobe. In winter, it is easy to build an outfit by playing on volumes and numerous textures but in summer, the options are quickly limited. A very simple alternative is to integrate bright tones to enhance your look : yellow is in my opinion the easiest to match. It goes very well with blue, gray or khaki.

In this outfit, yellow is used in a dominant way, creating a very strong visual effect. In the choice of pieces, I remain relatively reserved: associating "preppy" influences with certain sportswear elements like this pair of running shoes is a very perilous exercise! More simply, yellow can be used in small touches in everyday outfits ; through a pocket square or a pair of sneakers for example.

The final word

Discovering Nanamica, we have already come a long way together.

From 80s Haute Couture to ultra-resistant fabrics, the first stage of our Japanese journey ends here. We can already identify some keys to interpreting the Japanese stylistic universe: a special relationship with the Western world, attachment to local know-how, the importance of comfort...

Our next stop will take us into the world of Visvim and its founder Hiroki Nakamura: there we will encounter a very different aesthetic, marked by adventure and multicultural influences.

See you soon for the next episode!