There are some really great knitwear brands out there and, in my opinion, SNS Herning is one of them.
I discovered it in the pages of BonneGueule, which is why I wanted to share my opinion with the community.
Disclaimer: Guerric is a reader of BonneGueule and founder of the young brand GoudronBlanc. A few weeks ago, he sent us an email telling us that he wanted to write this article "for fun and the desire to contribute, and because SNS really caught my eye". The floor is his!
SNS Herning is a brand behind many special knitting stitches, which produces robust and timeless pieces thanks to traditional know-how. Today, like many specialized brands, it must succeed in creating something new without denying tradition.
Before telling you everything about one of their flagship pieces, the Stark cardigan, let me introduce the brand to you in detail.
SNS Herning: traditional know-how and original knitting stitches
Originally: good marine workwear
The brand comes straight from Herning, Denmark. It was officially created in 1931 by Søren Nielsen Skyt, who gave it his initials.
Mr. Søren Nielsen Skyt, founder of the brand in 1931.
In the 1920s, Skyt made his living selling marine clothing. It was then that he discovered a knitting technique that allowed them to stay warmer (quite essential when you know the freshness of the North Sea). All these pieces are made from wool, a robust, temperature-regulating and insulating material.
Clearly, it's not hot at sea.
Using a method called the “bubble knit pattern”
What’s special about this knitting stitch? It has the advantage of increasing the insulation of the knit because it is denser than classic knits. Likewise, it increases the robustness of the part (perfect for resisting the wear and tear of working at sea).
The success of the Fisherman was immediate. For over 100 years, it has remained SNS Herning's flagship knitwear. The brand is renowned for its models that stand out thanks to its particular knitting techniques, which are completely unique to it .
The Fisherman, the knitting stitch at the origin of the brand. We clearly recognize the “bubble” pattern.
A family matter
Today, the brand is still a family business. She still knits the majority of her clothes in Herning!
Four people are in charge of production in Denmark, it is truly a human-sized company. Collections are often produced in limited quantities to ensure exclusivity, diversity of models and limit risk-taking regarding possible unsold stocks.
SNS continues to use old machines : some date back to the 1950s and one of them was already in use in the 1930s. Although the maintenance of this equipment is not always easy or cheap, the team emphasizes that this is one of the key elements of the quality of their sweaters.
One of the machines used by SNS Herning to knit its pieces.
There is also an emotional attachment to the equipment that Skyt used in its early days.
For several years now, his son Holger H. Skyt has taken over and takes care of these machines. With over 50 years of experience in wool knitting, Holger is one of the pillars of the company. It ensures continuity between the origin of the brand and its current inspirations.
Holger H. Skyt, who took over the reins of SNS Herning.
In many family businesses, the second generation often has a “businessman profile”. She focuses more on the strategy aspect of the business. That is not the case here. Holger has a very practical approach to things and is not afraid to repair a machine himself with a screwdriver.
Collections that follow the legacy of Søren Nielsen Skyt
As you can see, the success of SNS Herning was built on the Fisherman bubble pattern .
Since then, the brand has continued to produce sober pieces to focus on the creation of particular knitting stitches , which must be dense, strong and beautiful at the same time. It thus remains faithful to its origins while always drawing inspiration from the marine world.
More recently, SNS developed the Stark point (which I will introduce to you soon) and the Real (created in 2016).
Real is one of the knitting stitches from SNS Herning. Based on a ribbed pattern, it gives relief to the garment.
Most of the new pieces feature one of the famous knitting stitches. This is important because the brand was above all created for the functional side of clothing, which is found today in the quality of its products. This is what makes the collections so charming.
SNS Herning is one of those names that focuses on one thing, but does it really well. For my part, I'm less of a fan of the new products that expand the catalog (mainly hats, scarves, t-shirts).
As the creator of a brand, I testify that this highlights a typical challenge for those who have been able to create timeless pieces. There is a strong tension between staying in the comfort zone and perfecting these pieces, or seeking to innovate at the risk of making a few failures.
I told you, it's more the classic SNS pieces that hold my interest . I chose to talk to you about the Stark cardigan which illustrates the good balance between the search for novelty and the desire to preserve the tradition of the brand.
I tested the Stark virgin wool cardigan
The Stark stitch is one of the knitting stitches that have made SNS Herning so successful. We find it on scarves, hats, cardigans or sweaters depending on the collection.
Stark appeared in the brand's collections in 1971. It is a very textured stitch, knitted rhythmically, which gives the garment a very stretchy character. Depending on the edition, some Stark models are knitted with merino wool inside the collar because it is softer than virgin wool .
The consistency is that the majority of the cardigan is made from virgin wool. This comes from the first shearing of the sheep. The “virgin wool” standard requires that no more than 7% of external fibers can be added. Here, the Stark from SNS respects exactly the balance: 93% virgin wool and 7% extra-fine merino wool (at the collar).
This type of wool has very good robustness over time. There is very little risk of it pilling like a finer wool would. One of the other benefits of virgin wool is the visual effect, which gives a raw appearance to the cardigan.
The famous Stark knit. Also note the metal buttons which will patina over time, like on jeans.
If you are looking for a good cardigan to keep you warm in winter, the Stark is perfect for that. I found the material really thick but the model remains comfortable thanks to the stretchy side of the knitting stitch.
To give you an example, the Stark cardigan in size M weighs 1.2 kg . It's the weight of quality on your shoulders. By looking closely at the cardigan, I noticed the regularity of the knitting. No fraying can be seen.
How to wear the Stark cardigan?
Effective, even with a simple t-shirt
In mid-season, it is possible to wear the Stark alone with a t-shirt. This is my favorite duo, especially in autumn.
Avoid wearing two colors that are too close in a t-shirt and cardigan. Tone on tone is still possible but it's a shame to have a monochrome outfit when you can create much more interesting contrasts.
In the outfit below, I chose to go with two colors: navy blue and white. It’s a simple and effective combination. Since the piece is textured, there's no real need to go overboard and your outfit won't be boring.
Even when it's rather cool, the Stark is sufficient on its own. Here, I'm wearing the cardigan with Carhartt chinos, Superga sneakers and a GoudronBlanc t-shirt.
V-neck or round neck with the Stark cardigan? I know that Benoît and Luca prefer the second but personally, I tend to favor the V-neck. It depends more on your tastes than on an objective indication.
In any case, pay attention to the depth of your t-shirt, especially if you opt for the V-neck. This is often where the debate arises. Basically: avoid letting your t-shirt completely reveal your collarbones.
Also, keep in mind that Stark wool is virgin, therefore slightly rough. Short sleeves are still feasible - that's what I do when I wear my cardigan with a simple t-shirt - but although the SNS virgin wool is not very itchy, many people don't find it comfortable.
If you have sensitive skin in particular, I advise you to opt for a long-sleeved t-shirt.
As a reminder, the softness of wool is not a sign of quality . So if it's itchy, it's normal. Benoît explains it very well:
Indeed, if I tell you that a virgin wool cardigan can be itchy, you will intuitively look for the softest pieces in the store. However, as I explained, this softness is often very artificial in entry-level and mid-range knits (especially among advertising brands). Remember, these knits are only soft because of numerous softeners, which will also leave a soapy feeling on your fingers if you pinch the garment.
But on the other hand, I'm not saying that itchy wool is necessarily a guarantee of quality...
The only thing you can do is be particularly attentive to how you feel when you touch it... For example, very soft wool can be obtained through numerous chemical treatments of the material, but it will never reach the level of softness of extra-fine merino wool.
On this cardigan specifically, the virgin wool seemed too rough to me at first. Please note that as with all woolens, it really softens with wear and washes .
The Stark silhouette is more refined than that of classic chunky knit cardigans. Thanks to Oskar Zieba for posing for the photo 🙂
The stand-up collar is typical of SNS Herning . In my opinion, this is a strong piece, so I advise you to wear it with basic, sober clothes.
The advantage of the Stark is that it is much warmer than most mid-season jackets, which makes it a perfect companion when it's cold.
For harsh winters, it is perfect under a coat. My last trip with this cardigan was to Estonia (count -10°C in winter). With him on my shoulders, I had no worries.
In terms of cut, the Stark is fitted. This is a change from chunky knit cardigans which are often bulky but you have to love the style.
In a more dressy version, with a shirt
As I pointed out, it goes very well over a t-shirt but it is also easy to match with a shirt. The opportunity for you to play with colors and materials.
A great example of a Stark cardigan worn with a casual chambray shirt.
The Stark cardigan/casual shirt combo is as simple as pie. It's an easy combination but far from bland or boring. For my part, I have a preference for Oxford shirts.
How to play with colors?
The brand mainly offers models in sober colors (navy blue, black, gray, etc.) but it regularly includes a few pieces in less classic shades in its collections. Red and burgundy are part of it this season.
These models are more original and ultimately easier to wear than one might think at first glance. I can very well imagine a big red cardigan worn over a cream t-shirt and raw jeans, with brown boots for example.
But if you prefer to stay in a comfort zone, it is more reasonable to play with the materials. Go with simple, timeless colors, but rely on the richness and texture of Stark knitting.
The Stark's stand-up collar sets it apart from most other cardigan cuts.
Last little thing: the collar tends to stand up really straight . It's a little detail that I appreciate because you don't often see this type of model. But it is also possible to break it a little if you prefer it to fall.
My opinion on the piece
The Stark really made me feel like I had invested in a nice, sturdy piece . I've only had mine for a few months but I have a feeling it will last me for years.
And my intuition seems confirmed with this opinion that I found on the BonneGueule forum:
Quality-wise, SNS is indestructible. There, I have one on my back which is 3 years old and more than 150 ports (by a ladle). I can put it back on the rack in a store next to the new ones, you can't see the difference, apart from the buttons which have patina (0 pilling, 0 deformation including the ribbed edges, 0 stray threads, 0 faded).
The Stark knit is great for adding character to a simple outfit. Note that here the almost tone on tone is not shocking.
So the Stark, what do I think about it in the end?
The negative first: the very fitted/slim side of the cut.
Clearly, the Stark cardigan does not easily fit all silhouettes. Some people find it too fitted, I really advise you to try it on to see. It is a special piece that cannot be bought just by looking at beautiful photos.
The positive now: at 270 euros, I think it's a very nice gift that I gave myself. The price is very good considering the quality.
As Euxane points out in the guide to sweaters and cardigans for men :
Difficult to find large knits in 100% natural material for less than €300…
You should keep in mind that the Stark is a chunky knit virgin wool cardigan, which means at least 1.2 kg of material per piece. This quantity of wool used has a price but it can also be explained by the quality of the work and the tools used.
In three words: for me it is a quality piece that will last for years, a real long-term investment.
