There are some very nice knitwear brands out there and in my opinion SNS Herning is one of them.
I discovered it in the pages of BonneGueule, which is why I wanted to share my opinion with the community.
Disclaimer: Guerric is a reader of BonneGueule and founder of the young brand GoudronBlanc. A few weeks ago, he sent us an email telling us that he wanted to write this article "for fun and the desire to contribute, and because SNS really caught my eye". The floor is his!
SNS Herning is a brand that originated many special knitting stitches, producing robust and timeless pieces thanks to traditional know-how. Today, like many specialist brands, it must succeed in creating something new without denying tradition.
Before telling you everything about one of their flagship pieces, the Stark cardigan, let me introduce you to the brand in detail.
SNS Herning: traditional know-how and original knitting stitches
Originally: good marine workwear
The brand comes to us straight from Herning, Denmark. It was officially created in 1931 by Søren Nielsen Skyt, who lent it his initials.
Mr. Søren Nielsen Skyt, founder of the brand in 1931.
In the 1920s, Skyt made his living selling sailor's clothing. It was then that he discovered a knitting technique that allowed them to keep you warmer (quite essential when you know how cold the North Sea is). All these pieces are made from wool, a robust, thermoregulating and insulating material.
Clearly, it's not warm at sea.
Using a method called in English the “bubble knit pattern” , Skyt creates the Fisherman. A sweater that aims to protect and warm Danish sailors in bad weather.
What is special about this knitting stitch? It has the advantage of increasing the insulation of the mesh because it is denser than classic knits. It also increases the robustness of the piece (perfect for resisting the wear and tear of working at sea).
The Fisherman was an immediate success. For over 100 years, it has remained SNS Herning's flagship knitwear. The brand is renowned for its models that stand out thanks to its special knitting techniques, which are completely unique to it .
The Fisherman, the knitting stitch at the origin of the brand. We can clearly recognize the "bubble" pattern.
A family affair
Today, the brand is still a family business. They still knit the majority of their clothes in Herning!
Four people are in charge of production in Denmark, it is truly a company on a human scale. The collections are often produced in limited quantities to ensure both exclusivity, diversity of models and limit the risk of possible unsold stocks.
SNS continues to use old machines : some date back to the 1950s and one of them was already in use in the 1930s. Although the maintenance of this equipment is not always easy or cheap, the team emphasizes that it is one of the key elements of the quality of their sweaters.
One of the machines used by SNS Herning to knit its pieces.
There is also an emotional attachment to the equipment Skyt used in its early days.
For a few years now, his son Holger H. Skyt has taken over and is taking care of these machines. With over 50 years of experience in wool knitting, Holger is one of the pillars of the company. He ensures continuity between the origins of the brand and its current inspirations.
Holger H. Skyt, who took over the reins of SNS Herning.
In many family businesses, the second generation often has a "businessman profile". They focus more on the strategic side of the business. This is not the case here. Holger has a very practical approach to things and is not afraid to repair a machine himself with a screwdriver.
Collections that follow the legacy of Søren Nielsen Skyt
As you can see, the success of SNS Herning was built on the Fisherman bubble pattern .
Since then, the brand has continued to produce sober pieces to focus on the creation of particular knitting stitches , which must be dense, strong and beautiful. It thus remains faithful to its origins by always drawing inspiration from the marine world.
More recently, SNS developed the Stark point (which I will introduce to you soon) and the Real (created in 2016).
Real is one of SNS Herning's knitting stitches. Based on a ribbed pattern, it gives relief to the garment.
Most of the new pieces feature one of the famous knitting stitches. This is important because the brand was first and foremost created for the functional side of the garment, which is what we find today in the quality of its products. This is what makes the collections so charming.
SNS Herning is one of those names that focuses on one thing, but does it really well. For my part, I am less of a fan of the new products that are expanding the catalog (hats, scarves, t-shirts mainly).
As a brand creator, I can attest that this highlights a typical challenge for those who have managed to create timeless pieces. There is a strong tension between staying in the comfort zone and perfecting these pieces, or seeking to innovate at the risk of making some mistakes.
As I said, it's the classic SNS pieces that really catch my attention . I chose to talk to you about the Stark cardigan, which illustrates the right balance between the search for novelty and the desire to preserve the brand's tradition.
I tested the Stark virgin wool cardigan
The Stark stitch is one of the knitting stitches that have made SNS Herning successful. It can be found on scarves, hats, cardigans or sweaters depending on the collection.
Stark appeared in the brand's collections in 1971. It is a very textured stitch, knitted in cadence, which gives the garment a very stretchy character. Depending on the edition, some Stark models are knitted with merino wool inside the collar because it is softer than virgin wool .
The constant is that the majority of the cardigan is made from virgin wool. This comes from the first shearing of the sheep. The “virgin wool” standard requires that no more than 7% of external fibres can be added. Here, the Stark from SNS respects the balance exactly: 93% virgin wool and 7% extra-fine merino wool (at the collar).
This type of wool has very good robustness over time. There is very little risk that it will pill like a finer wool would. One of the other advantages of virgin wool is the visual rendering, which gives a raw appearance to the cardigan.
The famous Stark knit. Also note the metal buttons that will develop a patina over time, like on jeans.
If you are looking for a good cardigan to keep you warm in winter, the Stark is perfect for that. I found the material really thick but the model remains comfortable thanks to the stretchy side of the knitting stitch.
To give you an example, the Stark cardigan in size M weighs 1.2 kg . This is the weight of quality on your shoulders. By observing the cardigan carefully, I noticed the regularity of the knitting. There is no fraying.
How to wear the Stark cardigan?
Effective, even with a simple t-shirt
In mid-season, it is possible to wear the Stark alone with a t-shirt. It's my favorite duo, especially in autumn.
Avoid wearing two colours that are too close in a t-shirt and cardigan. Tone on tone is still possible but it's a shame to have a monochrome outfit when you can create much more interesting contrasts.
In the outfit below, I chose to go with two colors: navy blue and white. It's a simple and effective combination. Since the piece is textured, there's no need to overdo it, your outfit won't be boring.
Even when it's rather chilly, the Stark is enough on its own. Here, I'm wearing the cardigan with Carhartt chinos, Superga sneakers and a GoudronBlanc t-shirt.
V-neck or round neck with the Stark cardigan? I know that Benoît and Luca prefer the latter, but personally, I tend to favor the V-neck. It depends more on your taste than on an objective indication.
In any case, pay attention to the depth of your t-shirt, especially if you opt for a V-neck. This is often where it's debated. Basically: avoid your t-shirt completely revealing your collarbones.
Also, keep in mind that the Stark wool is virgin, so slightly rough. Short sleeves are still possible - that's what I do when I wear my cardigan with a simple tee shirt - but although the SNS virgin wool is not very scratchy, many people don't find it comfortable.
If you have sensitive skin in particular, I recommend opting for a long-sleeved t-shirt.
As a reminder, the softness of wool is not a sign of quality . So if it itches, it's normal. Benoît explains it very well:
Indeed, if I tell you that a virgin wool cardigan can itch, you will intuitively look for the softest pieces in stores. However, as I explained, this softness is often very artificial in entry-level and mid-range knits (especially among advertiser brands). Remember, these knits are only soft thanks to numerous softeners, which will also leave a soapy sensation on your fingers if you pinch the garment.
But on the other hand, I'm not saying that itchy wool is necessarily a sign of quality...
The only thing you can do is to be particularly attentive to how it feels when you touch it… For example, a very soft wool can be obtained thanks to many chemical treatments of the material, but it will never reach the level of softness of an extra-fine merino wool.
On this cardigan specifically, the virgin wool seemed too rough to me at first. Be aware that as with all wools, it really softens with wear and wash .
The Stark has a slimmer silhouette than the classic chunky knit cardigans. Thanks to Oskar Zieba for posing for the photo 🙂
The high collar is typical of SNS Herning . In my opinion, this is a strong piece, so I advise you to wear it with basic and sober clothes.
The advantage of the Stark is that it is much warmer than most mid-season jackets, which makes it a perfect companion when it's cold.
For harsh winters, it is perfect under a coat. My last trip with this cardigan was to Estonia (count -10°C in winter). With it on my shoulders, I had no worries.
In terms of cut, the Stark is fitted. It's a change from chunky knit cardigans which are often bulky but you have to like the style.
In a more formal version, with a shirt
As I pointed out, it goes very well over a t-shirt but it is also easy to match with a shirt. The opportunity for you to play on colors and materials.
A great example of a Stark cardigan worn with a casual chambray shirt.
The Stark cardigan/casual shirt combo is as easy as pie. It's an easy combination but far from bland or boring. For my part, I have a preference for oxford shirts.
How to play with colors?
The brand mainly offers models in sober colors (navy blue, black, gray, etc.) but it regularly includes in its collections a few pieces in less classic shades. Red and burgundy are among them this season.
These models are more original and ultimately easier to wear than one might think at first glance. I can easily imagine a big red cardigan worn over a cream t-shirt and raw jeans, with brown boots for example.
But if you prefer to stay in a comfort zone, it is more reasonable to play on the materials. Go for simple and timeless colors, but rely on the richness and texture of the Stark knit.
The Stark's straight collar sets it apart from most other cardigan cuts.
Last little thing: the collar tends to stand up really straight . It's a little detail that I appreciate because you don't often see this type of model. But it is also possible to break it a little if you prefer it to fall back.
My opinion on the play
The Stark really made me feel like I invested in a nice sturdy piece . I've only had mine for a few months but it feels like it'll last me for years.
And my intuition seems confirmed with this opinion that I found on the BonneGueule forum:
Quality-wise, SNS is indestructible. I have one on my back that is 3 years old and has been worn for more than 150 times (roughly). I can put it back on the rack in a shop next to the new ones, you can't see the difference, apart from the buttons that have developed a patina (0 pilling, 0 deformation including the ribbing, 0 loose threads, 0 fading).
Stark knitting is excellent for adding character to a simple outfit. Note that here the almost tone on tone is not shocking.
So what do I think of Stark in the end?
The negative first: the very fitted/slim side of the cut.
Clearly, the Stark cardigan does not easily suit all silhouettes. Some people find it too tight, I really advise you to try it on to see. It is a special piece that cannot be bought only by seeing beautiful photos.
Now the positive: at 270 euros, I think it's a very nice gift that I gave myself. The price is very good considering the quality.
As Euxane points out in the guide to men's sweaters and cardigans :
It’s hard to find chunky knitwear made from 100% natural material for less than €300…
It is important to keep in mind that the Stark is a chunky knit cardigan made of virgin wool, which means at least 1.2 kg of material per piece. This amount of wool used comes at a price, but it is also explained by the quality of the work and the tools used.
In three words: for me it is a quality piece that will last for years, a real long-term investment.
