Cover image: Thomas Farthing lookbook
As the cold slowly arrives, you set off in search of a good coat to spend the winter warm
Imagining that this will be your only coat, many questions arise: should it be short or long? With or without a hood ? Padded or not?
Here is a little guide to help you choose the coat that will suit you best based on your style.
Don’t hesitate to take a look at the other content already published on this subject:
Small point of glossary
The term "coat" doesn't encompass all winter outerwear as we might instinctively think.
Strictly speaking, the parka is not a coat for example but a raincoat
A jacket is not a coat either: a jacket is short
In the context of this article, it is therefore “ warm outerwear ” that we are going to talk about. Parka (thick) and jacket (wool) included.
The overcoat (mid-length or long, straight or double-breasted)
The ultimate dress coat, it is perfectly suited to a formal style, of course. This will be your first choice if you wear the suit to work or if you like tailoring in general.
Keep in mind that a double-breasted coat is dressier than a straight coat: the double-breasted buttoning provides an additional form of presence.
If you are unsure about the length: take it long (at knee level) if you are comfortable with the silhouette given by a long coat. Take it mid-length (mid-thigh) if you are not sure of your choice.
Also, I can only advise you to try coats of different lengths to see what you prefer.
The overcoat is also completely suitable in a casual chic style , where jeans, an Oxford or flannel shirt, and a wool sweater can be integrated.
If you want to wear an overcoat in a primarily casual way, don't hesitate to choose it a little softer, less structured, or perhaps with a slightly more assertive pattern.
The winter parka
Although there are lightweight parkas , we are going to talk about winter parkas here. You know, the one that's nice and thick and padded or warmly lined.
It will of course look great in casual and streetwear looks.
It will also fit with casual outfits: yes, it is possible to wear a dressy outfit with a parka.
The overall look of the outfit will be less elegant than with an overcoat, but this is not necessarily a problem.
Just make sure the parka has a sufficiently urban look.
It is also the perfect garment for people who are very cold, and in my opinion it is also much prettier aesthetically than an average down jacket.
The pea coat
It's a rather casual coat with a touch of elegance thanks to its wide lapels and double-breasted buttoning.
I find it a very reassuring coat : by avoiding the black color, you can't really go wrong with a peacoat, and it goes with everything.
Can you wear a peacoat with a suit?
I don't think it's an ideal combination, but it's still completely acceptable.
In this case, just make sure that the peacoat is longer than your jacket.
The short jacket
With a bomber or shirt collar, zipped or buttoned, the short wool jacket will go very well in a casual, workwear or streetwear style.
Too short and casual, it is not suitable with wearing a suit or blazer
Shearling or shearling
I receive a lot of questions about this garment which, probably, enjoys a special aura, in the same way as the unlined leather jacket .
As a reminder, the shearling is a type of leather jacket whose hair side is used on the reverse and the skin side on the right side.
I have two pieces of advice for you about buying and wearing shearling:
- Don't buy a "cheap" shearling . Nicolò wrote a comprehensive article on why you shouldn't buy a cheap leather jacket . All arguments are valid when choosing a shearling. A decent shearling costs at least €800/900, or even more like €1000. Below that, you have a good chance of having a fairly mediocre product (not very pretty, poorly cut, low quality corrected leather, synthetic lining, etc.). Spending €500 or €600 on a poor quality shearling really seems like a bad idea to me, both for your style and for your wallet.
- Shearling is a piece of clothing with character. Do it honor and wear it with beautiful materials or materials that have been around: distressed jeans with cargo, thick green cargo, a wool sweater with a large knit stitch or a good pair of boots, for example. example.
Here is an example of a well-executed outfit by Officine Générale :
And to delight the eyes, a shearling worn over a double-breasted suit by Shuhei Nishiguchi
Duffle Coat
The duffle coat is a long coat traditionally made of wool, with a hood and closing at the front with a fastening system made up of curved buttons called brandenburg.
It's a garment that doesn't seem to be popular in recent years and that I've rarely seen used by brands.
However, it is not without interest: practical with its hood, often thick, it is a kind of more urban version of the thick nylon or cotton/nylon parka.
Wear it in looks ranging from casual to workwear to more formal outfits , like here with the return of our friend Shuhei, an inexhaustible source of inspiration: