New : the technical raincoat , the beige and khaki velvet pants , and the Toki winter sweatshirt are now available!
The story of this piece is special since, basically, I don't wear a raincoat at all.
I have simply never found a model that I really like, even though this garment meets a real need: protection from the rain, and particularly when wearing a suit, a blazer or a chunky knit.
This implies two things:
- a comfortable cut on the shoulders, even when wearing a blazer . Something sometimes complicated with a classic coat with well-defined shoulders...
- and a material that is sufficiently breathable - so as not to die of heat as soon as you get on public transport - but which must nevertheless protect you from the elements .
Finally, I needed a visual result that makes me want to wear the rain coat... It's very simple, I never part with my prototype now.
Let's see how we arrived at this result...
The material: c_change™ merino from Schoeller
We are using a laminated material, that is to say it is made up of two layers glued together by passing them through large cylinders:
- outside : merino wool mixed with 20% technical polyester (fine fibers, and generally extruded), chosen for its breathable qualities, and to ensure consistency with the c_change™ laminated membrane.
- inside : the c_change™ membrane, a new generation polymer which lets water vapor pass on a microscopic scale, but stops liquids.
Which ultimately gives a mixture of 71% merino wool, 18% polyester, 11% polyurethane .
A rare composition for a very natural result
The presence of wool intrigued me, because it is a rare material in technical fabrics.
It has two advantages here:
- offer the room all the properties of merino wool : thermal insulation, hydrophobic material, does not absorb odors, does not crease...
- and above all, give an ultra-natural rendering to the material!
A wool that hides its game well
Thanks to the texture of the wool, this raincoat has an elegant and timeless appearance . It also brings originality, since merino is rarely used for rain clothing.
And color is full of nuances. We have a nice antique design which gives relief to the piece.
The wool has been mottled to avoid making it too smooth. It also brings a welcome touch of relaxation.
Very clearly, it is visually impossible to know that it is a technical material !
No no no.
All you see is a beautiful woolen cloth.
“Isn’t the material too thick for a raincoat?”
No, don’t worry.
Although the appearance gives the impression that it is a classic woolen coat cloth, it is quite different.
In terms of thickness, we are much closer to the feeling of our softshell or any other raincoat than an average coat. You should store this piece alongside a trench coat or mac.
For your information, the material has a weight of 280g/m² and a fluid drape.
Finally, one last heart-warming detail: Schoeller certifies that the merino wool used comes from a farm that does not practice mulesing.
With a material weight of 280g/m², the raincoat remains a light piece to wear.
A removable and discreet hood
Macs and other trench coats have always been a strange paradox for me: why call these pieces rain gear... when they don't protect the head?
Rain gear is still supposed to protect your head!
I of course understand that a garment without a hood is more elegant (we lose the "sportswear" connotation), but still...
So, I wanted to bring together the best of both worlds.
So there is a hood, but it can easily be removed with a zip.
And when the raincoat is without a hood, the zip is completely invisible, hidden by the collar.
Once the hood is removed, and the collar is placed normally, you have a classic raincoat!
The zip is completely invisible, hidden by the collar.
To solve the thorny question "Should I hold my hood in my hand all day when I take it off?" , we placed a large interior pocket at the bottom of the raincoat. It allows you to store the folded hood.
Thus stored, the hood will be ready to use in all circumstances.
So this is what I wanted: a beautiful, elegant garment... with a strong practical dimension .
Without a hood, with hidden snap buttons, the silhouette is refined and timeless.
A cut adapted to tailoring pieces
The coat/blazer combo is elegant, no doubt about it. But you will agree: we have seen better comfort, especially if the woolen cloth is thick. Now, it was clear to me: we had to be able to easily wear a jacket under our raincoat.
Let's take a concrete example: me this morning.
Usually, I wear our camel coat in size 48 and wear a blazer underneath, but the ease takes a hit. Whereas here, with the 48 raincoat and the same blazer, it's very comfortable... It reminds me of the comfort of a Norwegian Rain for connoisseurs!
So I really thought about it so that you can wear a layer underneath
But that doesn't mean the cut is loose, far from it! Don't make the mistake of Nicolò who found it too straight on the hanger, only to realize that it still remained adjusted when he saw me wearing it. Let's just say that we haven't embarked on an endless bending race.
A fitted cut just right, suitable for wearing a blazer or a chunky knit.
In terms of length, it reaches mid-thigh: perfect for your casual outfits , with sneakers for example
Now that we've reviewed the exterior of this raincoat, let's see what's under the hood. Let's start with this famous "technical matter that doesn't seem like it" from Schoeller...
Schoeller's c_change membrane
A material inspired by nature
After the Sympatex™ membrane on our softshell and the eVent™ from our collaboration with ColdSmoke , here is a new addition: the c_change™ membrane from Schoeller.
Its operation is rather atypical...
Most other membranes rely on a principle of pores: large enough to let perspiration escape but small enough to prevent a drop of rain from entering.
But the c_change™ draws its inspiration from a... pine cone.
Just like it, depending on the temperature, the pores of c_change™ expand or retract .
The video is a little dated, but explains how it works well.
An active membrane that adapts to temperature and humidity
Schoeller specifies that the membrane reacts not only to temperature, but also to body humidity . How ? Industrial secret...
In fact, when the wearer's body heats up, the membrane opens so that heat and perspiration escape more easily.
And when the temperature drops, the pores shrink , preventing heat loss.
As a result, this gives a membrane that truly adapts to the climatic conditions and the activity of its wearer.
Schoeller's pictograms on the properties of c_change.
But as usual with manufacturers of technical materials, their descriptions give the impression of being faced with the eighth wonder textile of the world.
So I just had to form my own opinion! Really, what does that give?
My opinion on technical wool with c_change™ membrane
A material that “keeps its promises”
As usual, I begin my investigation by looking for opinions on this matter.
It is clearly not as popular as Gore-Tex™ due to its price, but the feedback is very enthusiastic :
The return of Road.cc (the BonneGueule of cycling) which is testing a Mission Workshop jacket in exchange :
[The c_change™] looks impressive and delivers what it promises. I would go even further and say that it is truly incredible. I'm the type of person who sweats a lot when I'm on my bike.
The return of "Feed the habit", an outdoor site, which tests a hiking jacket from the Westcomb brand :
Compared to competing materials (eVent, Polartec NeoShell, Gore-Tex Active), Schoeller c_change wool works like a sieve. Needless to say, she breathes incredibly well.
This week I had to shovel snow, and I had further proof of its breathability. No sweat condensation inside, except on the sealed seams.
In terms of rain resistance, all the tests I carried out in wet weather (intense rain, snow) proved very pleasant total waterproofing.
Rather reassuring... As an indication, here are some brands using Schoeller c_change™: Mission Workshop
So much for what is being said about c_change™. Now let's move on to my testing of the prototypes "in the field"!
The urban jungle test
A windproof room
We will start with a simple functionality to test: the ability to protect from the wind.
I had a nice glimpse of it last Sunday, leaving Montparnasse station. It was around 10°C and, as usual in this corner of Paris, it was very windy. I only wore a denim shirt under my raincoat...
Well, the combination of merino and membrane provided a perfect wind barrier. I didn't even need to wear a mesh underneath that day.
Thanks to the merino coupled with the c_change™ membrane, you will be effectively protected from the wind.
A raincoat that keeps you warm
I also wore the raincoat with a blazer, when it was 5°C. I was neither too hot nor too cold.
The “thermal versatility” of this piece surprises me a lot. I didn't think I could wear it in such low temperatures. Given its lightness, I think I'll be as comfortable there as in spring!
Let's now look at a much more complex property: the impermeability of c_change™...
As you know, the waterproofness of a piece does not only depend on the material, but also on how the seams are treated. We might as well announce the color right away: there are no waterproof seams on this raincoat, and I'll explain why.
Why are there no sealed seams?
A price not to be exceeded
This was one of the hardest decisions to make on this piece.
I was faced with a huge dilemma, I even thought about it at night.
And if there are no waterproof seams on this piece, it's because they are not absolutely essential, but it is mainly for price reasons.
Impossible to have a Schoeller material AND waterproof seams, on a piece this long, for less than €400.
Even with our "margins without intermediaries", this raincoat would cost around €600 if I had opted for heat-sealed seams.
And from a “normal” brand, I have seen equivalent products for around €800. This gives you an idea of the prices for technical clothing...
So I opted for an affordable piece, with great material, but which remains totally suitable for an urban downpour.
Not wanting to compromise on the material, I chose not to adopt waterproof seams. We will see below why they are not essential.
A piece that remains waterproof
The material is completely waterproof, but not the raincoat itself. I would describe it as "rain proof", "weather resistant" or even "rain resistant", rather than "waterproof"
In fact, this piece will protect you perfectly in urban use , i.e. a short hour's walk in a good downpour (and as much as you want in light rain).
To console myself, I reread the article by Noah's designer , pointing out the welded seams as an excessive "feature" on an urban jacket: we end up spending very little time in the rain. Objectively, he is not wrong.
But if there were no sealed seams, I had to discover the limitations of this piece. So I decided to test the waterproofness .
My test protocol: rain + shower
Test in Parisian rain
Every time it rained and I was at the office, I would run and get under it (yes, people looked at me funny sometimes).
But long showers are rare, and I have rarely found myself in the rain for more than 10 minutes.
To my great relief, no problems to report. You stay perfectly dry.
But it wasn't enough. Since the weather wouldn't help me, I resorted to extreme measures.
Test in the shower
We have a shower in our offices.
Enough to settle once and for all the question of waterproofing without waterproof seams...
Initial conditions :
- clothing worn underneath:
- Renhsen selvedge black jeans,
- our TOKI winter sweatshirt ,
- t-shirt whose brand I forgot,
- barefoot so as not to ruin my shoes
- Raincoat closed, hood on.
Phase 1 :
- coldest water possible,
- pressure at 2/3 of the tap,
- time spent in the shower: 5 minutes.
After these five minutes, I start to get bored. Nothing happens: no wet hair, no feeling of humidity. So I move on to phase 2.
Yes, like this turtle and its shell facing the water (a hard "shell"?), I wanted to know if I could (happily) reproduce the experience with our raincoat!
Phase 2:
- coldest water possible,
- pressure to FULL, valve turned to FULL,
- regular changes of positions, to vary the “attack points” of the water,
- time spent in the shower: 5 minutes.
I might as well tell you that there were waterspouts on my head! I don't believe there are such rainy conditions in nature, unless you decide to go trawling in the middle of a storm!
After another five minutes, I start going in circles. So I stop the test.
First observation: my head and my hair are dry. I touch my shoulders , my sweatshirt is completely dry too.
Second observation: I conscientiously inspect the raincoat. RAS at the hood, water barely managed to seep into the seams. At shoulder level, the water managed to seep in a little more, but the lining is not soaked. At most slightly damp.
So I can say it with confidence: you won't end up soaked with this raincoat, that's for sure.
My conclusion on the tightness of the room
In the city, to go from point A to point B in a downpour, you will frankly have no problem.
Objectively speaking, I think you would have to walk at least 20 minutes in the pouring rain to start being inconvenienced. And again... But in a "classic" downpour, no worries!
Geoffrey's mini-test
This morning, Geoffrey came to me to tell me that he had borrowed a prototype last weekend, and that he had done well in the rain with it.
He no longer remembers precisely the time he spent outside, " around 30 minutes in good rain " , and says he had no problem with the waterproofing.
Oh, and he also really liked the material!
You can't imagine how that reassured me...
As for the finishes?
I already told you about the hood and the pocket to store it. Anyway, here's what you need to know:
Two interior zipped pockets
There is no question of you losing your personal belongings. Each pocket is well secured.
Your belongings won't go to waste, we promise.
A double YKK zip at the front
On long pieces, I find the double slider essential. Especially when you're sitting or if, like me, you have wide hips compared to your height. In this case, I am very happy to be able to add ease by opening the bottom zip .
A double zip is more comfortable on a long piece: it makes closing easier and allows you to play on ease.
What about maintenance?
If necessary, iron at 110° maximum. As simple as that!
How to wear a heather blue raincoat?
As I told you, the raincoat was designed so that it could be worn with a blazer. Here, François focuses on eternal casual chic, completing his outfit with a white shirt and raw jeans (chinos would work just as well, in fact). If he chooses to keep the hood, we can imagine it removed to accentuate the dressy side of the outfit. (BonneGueule shirt coming soon, De Fursac blazer, BonneGueule jeans , Grenson brogues at British Shoes
The heather of the raincoat lends itself well to herringbone or tweed type effects, think about it when creating your looks.
Here, the velvet pants and the chunky knit complement each other, each piece echoing the relief of the other. The raincoat fits in naturally, highlighting the collar of the sweater in the process. The boots bring a more “adventurer” touch to the whole, which is reinforced by the khaki of the pants. Besides, there is no particular difficulty! ( Hartford sweater, BonneGueule velvet pants , Hudson boots at British Shoes
Chambray, velvet, merino, superyak: this look is interesting in its approach to materials, offering a rich mix. The combination of colors is harmonious: the cardigan and the pants create a monochrome, enhanced by the more intense blue of the shirt. The white sneakers finish the outfit on a casual and spontaneous note, even if we could have imagined a pair of boots. ( Maruwa BonneGueule chambray shirt , BonneGueule superyak cardigan , BonneGueule velvet pants , COS sneakers)
How to order our raincoat?
The technical raincoat , the beige and khaki velvet pants , and the Toki winter sweatshirt are now available!
