New : the technical raincoat , the beige and khaki velvet pants , and the Toki winter sweatshirt are now available!
I'm going to tell you a secret: I'm a big fan of velvet. Pants, jackets and even t-shirts: I consume it in all its forms.
So, when Benoît told me that we were going to explore this avenue within the BonneGueule brand, he couldn't have pleased me more.
Few men's fabrics allow you to bring so much variety to your wardrobe, playing with textures and contrasts. Worked as pants, they have nothing to envy of the eternal jeans and chinos, and are just as easy to wear. Look instead...
Beige version...
...And khaki!
This weaving has the particularity of having been, during its long history, sometimes the height of elegance, sometimes the incarnation of the working classes. A richness that contributes to its versatility. Today, far from the image of that good old French teacher in his blazer with elbow patches, velvet has been completely modernized.
Come on, I'll take you to the land of sweetness.
Velvet, fabric of kings and workers
Expertise from Persia
The origin of velvet is quite uncertain. It is agreed that the version most similar to the current one appeared in the Orient, probably in ancient Iran.
500 year old Persian velvet fabric. According to certain studies, they mastered its manufacture as early as the 11th century. (Credits: World 4)
In the 14th century, Italy prospered. Following their various expeditions, its navigators discovered velvet weaving in Persia and decided to import this know-how into their country. The great cities of the time - Genoa, Florence, Milan and especially the powerful Venice
Since the 15th century, our transalpine friends have had a monopoly on velvet production in Europe. This is still only woven from silk threads .
The prerogative of crowned heads
Given the price of silk, the slowness of weaving and the complexity of the technique, velvet became THE fabric synonymous with luxury since the Renaissance.
Quality, solid-colored velvet - often red - is very difficult to obtain. It is the fabric associated with royalty and nobility, as well as high religious dignitaries .
Velvet has also been subject to “sumptuary laws” since the 14th century. These edicts aim to limit the escalation of the people, no one being able to decently overshadow the monarch. The wearing of velvet is only authorized for certain strata of the population: royalty, nobility, aristocracy.
In France, it was only possible to produce it from the 16th century, when Francis I made Lyon the capital of silk. These same laws will also make it possible to limit exports from one country to another, notably Italy/France flows. Economic protectionism, in short.
Velvet is still used at the end of the 18th century / beginning of the 19th century for ceremonial clothing, here during Napoleon's coronation. (Painting: The Coronation of Napoleon, Jacques-Louis David, 1807)
The turning point of the Industrial Revolution
With the Industrial Revolution, the history of velvet took a new turn. Production is mechanized and velvet is produced on a larger scale, in different forms. Manufacturing processes improved and the use of fabrics such as wool or cotton became widespread.
From then on, corduroy became popular very quickly , becoming the clothing of gentlemen farmers . The army cuts uniforms there and it is even used to create sports clothing.
At the same time, farmers began to use it, as did workers in large urban areas: its complex weaving made it a robust and durable material . It was also at this time that he acquired his paradoxical image of the clothing of the penniless man.
American farm worker, late 19th century. Velvet pants, very robust, are a valuable asset for working in the fields. Sorry for the quality of the photo! (Credits: The Gentleman's Page)
Velvet today
For several decades, velvet has come and gone in the spotlight. Very fashionable in the 50s and 60s, it became rarer in the 70s, before returning at the end of the millennium. More discreet in the 2000s, we see it flourishing again today.
Luxury has nothing to do with it. Prada, Ferragamo and Zegna have made it a recurring element in their collections, always with great elegance , thus helping to restore its nobility.
Saharan from the last Prada fashion show. (Credits: WWD)
It is now available in more or less fine weaves, more intense colors... Latest examples at Pitti Uomo, where the material is also very present.
Large ribs and thick weave for this blue coat. (Credits: Pinterest)
Lighter version on these white pants. (Credits: Pinterest)
We even find him in a double-breasted blazer, which has none of the old brown velvet of our memories.
Our interpretation of velvet pants
Developing corduroy pants is a challenge, we didn't want to do it randomly. On this subject, Benoît also confided to me:
It’s a reflection that took time. This room needed to be dusted off and modernized to move away from the clichés!
On the program, we had to find:
- a soft and stretchy material for comfort, far from the popular velvets,
- a 5-pocket shape and a fitted cut , for a contemporary look,
- rich and versatile colors , easy to integrate into your looks,
- and fine, closely spaced ribs , which I tell you about just below!
A “milleraies” velvet enhanced by Velcorex
How do you get velvet?
Velvet is the result of a fairly complex weave. It is made with a warp and two wefts: one for the base of the fabric (in white), the second to form "the hairs" of the velvet (in black):
In the case of corduroy, the excess threads are shaved off, thus creating these characteristic streaks:
The more threads there are, the finer and closer the ribs (hence the term “milleraies”). This way, the fabric maintains its hold while remaining flexible.
“Milleraies” refers to the numerous fine and closely spaced striations of the velvet.
“Why choose a milleraies fabric rather than good chunky ribs?”, you will ask me. I asked myself the same question, to which Benoît answered:
The whole point of this piece is to ensure that it is timeless. I find that large streaks do not rejuvenate this material enough. I prefer thinner lines, for a more contemporary look.
A comfortable fabric with deep shades
Our corduroy is made from 98% cotton and 2% elastane for freedom of movement . With a weight of 235g/m2, you can wear it from fall to spring
Comfortable, I tell you.
For finishing, we trusted Velcorex , a French velvet specialist since 1828, based in Alsace, in the foothills of the Vosges .
The velvet is woven in beige before being roll-dyed, offering a deeper and more durable finish than with a piece-dye.
In this regard, we wanted not one, but two colors:
- a luminous beige , easily bringing clarity to winter looks.
We have always encouraged wearing light shades in fall/winter. Beige goes with almost everything, and will blend particularly well with more formal outfits.
- a nuanced khaki , more “raw”, which brings character to an outfit.
Just as versatile, khaki refers to a more “raw”, more daring imagination. Perfect for enhancing the character of a look.
Obviously, the pants have been washed the first time in the factory: the material will not move.
Respect for the environment and traceability
All Velcorex products are Oeko-Tex® certified for a textile without health risks, and France Terre Textile® for traceability.
The company is also involved in numerous water consumption reduction and waste management projects.
A cut that will highlight you
In terms of cut, you won't be disoriented.
Quite fitted, it follows your silhouette, without ever restricting you.
Legs highlighted without being molded.
For a more modern look, we chose a 5-pocket shape, like jeans.
The return of Benoît
It's my turn to tell you a secret: the khaki model is the very first velvet pants I've worn in my life.
I fell in love with the way the "thousand rays" take on the light...
In terms of comfort, I have nothing to complain about. For those who have our chinos, the feeling is very similar and, like me, I bet they will quickly become one of your most comfortable pants.
The fabric stretches, so don't hesitate to take it adjusted when trying it on .
The high-end details we love to find
The pants are assembled in Morocco, in the same workshop as for our chinos and drill pants . It is a structure on a human scale, which continues to maintain its know-how with clients in the luxury sector.
We have not neglected the finishes: flat metal button and rivets in “gun barrel” color; 100% cotton lining; belt mounted in chain stitch... In short, everything is there!
On the maintenance side?
As for ironing, this must be done on the reverse side , at 150° maximum.
How to wear velvet pants?
Velvet pants have come a long way since the days when they dressed the literature teachers of every high school in France (and Navarre).
There is nothing very complicated about wearing this type of piece, especially when the velvet is worked in milleraies: the fabric will be textured enough to create pretty contrasts, while remaining subtle. When putting together your looks, think of them as chinos.
We look at some inspirations together.
The velvet pants/chunky knit combo works almost every time, playing on the relief of each piece. This is all the more the case when the knit is worked with patterns, like here in cables. Bright, beige lends itself well to outfits with dressy influences, while remaining neutral enough to "calm down" a strong piece - checkered mackintosh. ( Mackintosh Camoshita sweater at Beige Habilleur , Hudson boots at British Shoes
Based on the previous look, François swaps his checkered mac for a navy raincoat and opts for the khaki version of the pants. Its association with boots gives off an “adventurer” side, accentuated by the chunky sailor knit. Moreover, the mixture of shades is harmonious, RAS on that side. ( Hartford sweater, BonneGueule raincoat to be discovered on Friday, boots bought in a thrift store)
Don’t hesitate to exploit the “working class” origins of velvet pants to create looks with a more marked workwear dimension. Play with “raw” materials, like here with jeans or the Japanese cotton shirt. This is also an opportunity to add accessories: gloves, scarf or hat, they will keep you warm and stylish... ( Edwin denim jacket, BonneGueule shirt in Kuwamura fabric , Galeries Lafayette gloves, Hudson boots from British Shoes
In this look, the shirt brings a touch of clarity to an otherwise dull look. Whether it's a shirt or a little sweater, bring light to your winter looks.
A bit like velvet pants, the sleeveless down jacket has taken on a major facelift: it's a piece that "sheaths" the bust and creates a pretty silhouette. The softness of the velvet echoes that of the flannel of the down jacket, thus creating a “binding” in the outfit. Besides, there is nothing complicated! (Top secret down jacket, Hartford sweater, boots bought at a thrift store)
Corduroy pants easily enhance a seemingly simple outfit, thanks to the relief of the ribbing. If you can, also choose a textured sweatshirt: your look will only be enhanced. As always, small white sneakers effectively finish the ensemble. (BonneGueule sweatshirt in TOKI material to be discovered on Thursday, COS sneakers)
How to get BonneGueule brand velvet pants?
The technical raincoat , the beige and khaki velvet pants , and the Toki winter sweatshirt are now available!
