It all starts with Randy Breitenbach - founder of the brand and Californian entrepreneur - who owns a heli-ski resort in British Columbia
If you don't know what heliskiing is, let's explain it in a few words: you are helicoptered to the top of a mountain, on a slope with no already marked trails, in order to make the most of powder snow as pure and dense as possible.
Heliskiing, the sport at the origin of Coldsmoke.
It is a sliding activity that can be considered “luxury”
The latter, generally from the region where they operate, are both skiers at an international competitive level and everyday explorers. They are regularly confronted with climatic conditions which require rigorous preparation.
One of the most important steps is certainly that of equipment : you can't heli-ski with city down jackets, stretch jeans and a funny hat in the shape of dreadlocks.
This is the kind of environment that Coldsmoke's first products are created for. We might as well tell you that they have an interest in protecting the wearer from wind and humidity, and not fearing snags.
The guides who work for Randy need technical, reliable, robust equipment that is adaptable to all the climatic conditions they may encounter.
It is this need that pushes him to create his own line of technical clothing in small, exclusive productions, intended for his guides and his staff. Wishing to equip them with the best, he ensures that his pieces are made from the most innovative technical materials .
The "Tantalus Guide Jacket" from Coldsmoke, the "Rolls Royce" of winter and mountain clothing, worthy heir to the jackets designed for Powder Mountain guides.
An urban and stylish techwear brand
In 2012, Randy spotted an opportunity in his project. Since he has launched a production of high performance clothing, at the forefront of what is available on the market, why not expand it by bringing his product to the general public?
As he takes a break in the middle of a descent from his station, he hears one of his guides say:
When the snow is perfect, the sun is shining high in the sky and there is just the right amount of wind, the powder becomes like " cold smoke " .
At that moment, the name of the brand seemed obvious to him.
The name of the brand comes from this state that powder can take when the right climatic conditions are met, where it almost resembles "cold smoke".
But Coldsmoke, newly christened, is not going to stick to powder and mountains.
Clothing Made in California
Combining technicality and aesthetics
In a desire to reflect the diversity of the Californian panorama - where wind, snow, mountains, desert, sun, sea and rain coexist - Randy hires Liam McAuliffe as artistic director. He joined him the year following the creation of the brand, to make a radical change in the direction it was taking.
The idea? Continue to make products based on ripstop, windproof and waterproof membranes, advanced thermal insulation, waterproof zips... but by adapting them to a look and everyday uses . And always “made in USA”.
Today, the brand's objective is to offer a practical and technical, but also urban, wardrobe that you can count on wherever you are. Wearable pieces come rain or shine, wind or snow (literally), without ever looking like you're in paramilitary costume or gearing up for a hiking session.
To put it simply, Coldsmoke wishes to reconcile the high technicality of clothing with the aesthetics of a beautiful, stylish and well-thought-out basic .
Behind its appearance of a completely classic, sober and well-cut "fishtail" parka, this piece actually hides a Schoeller waterproof membrane at the cutting edge of textile technology, whose pores retract or open depending on the ambient temperature .
Performance materials
Many of you are already familiar with so-called “no middlemen” brands, whose cost structure often allows them to offer quality products that are more affordable than the rest of the market.
Coldsmoke is on a fairly similar model. By selling its production through its own distribution network
This is all the more true when we know that the brand only really works with the best materials and technologies , often chosen from Schoeller , eVent , or even Polartech .
And the best part of all this is that it still manages to offer 100% “Made in California” confectionery.
The cost of California manufacturing is certainly high but, for Coldsmoke, it is well worth the quality obtained. Without forgetting the ethical and environmental respect that results from it.
Why rely on Californian manufacturing?
When we asked Liam why Coldsmoke persisted in producing everything in California despite the very high cost of labor, he gave us a well-rounded argument...
Of course, this starts above all from a desire to support local production, which is also an approach that reaches an increasingly large audience. But apart from this patriotic aspect, the brand also finds many practical advantages.
A matter of know-how...
First of all, this labor force is certainly expensive, but above all it is very qualified . Historically, California is one of the birthplaces of board sports (whether winter, water or city). It is therefore natural to find specific know-how for making clothing for these sports.
Versatility in a techwear brand means being able to make clothes that are also wearable when it's hotter... Like in summer, in Southern California, while sliding down asphalt slopes. (By the way, when you're on a skateboard, ripstop really comes into its own.)
An ethical approach
As lovers of nature and the great outdoors, the team leading the Coldsmoke boat wishes to collaborate with a manufacturer whose ecological and human requirements they can ensure. And what better way to do that than a small workshop 20 minutes from their offices?
This proximity also offers a certain “agility” in production. Since the brand produces small quantities and also relies on crowdfunding
Parts tested in real conditions
They don't joke about the reliability of their parts.
Liam assured me that the brand's staff, who love the culture of open spaces and board sports, made it a point of honor to test the pieces in real conditions .
They organize "small expeditions", which range from climbing weekends in California to excursions in Iceland, including a week of wild camping and skiing in the snowy regions of Japan.
Liam, the brand's creative director, putting his Coldsmoke shorts to the test himself during a warm-weather climbing session.
By reading these lines, you can imagine that between the history of the brand, its always well-executed designs and its ethical approach, we had to collaborate with them!
Why a bomber?
It's a piece that I appreciate more and more: it's casual, without being too sportswear.
And I like the "extreme versatility" of this piece: you can see it worn with very streetwear looks (very fitted jeans, ripped at the knees, and very trendy sneakers) or in much more classic looks, like a shirt in an oxford, raw jeans and a pair of ankle boots. Few pieces can make such a big difference between styles .
But most of the time, the bombers we find are made of fairly basic nylon, which doesn't have much to say. The cut is also not very flattering, the fault of a primary interpretation of the origins of this jacket.
So there was a lot to do!
A piece that is both casual and timeless, with the possibility of adding a technical dimension... It was really the garment to explore with Coldsmoke!
A Japanese ripstop material, breathable and water-repellent
Another approach to nylon
This bomber jacket is made from a very beautiful Japanese nylon , with a very discreet ripstop pattern, which provides a nice relief when you look closely.
As a reminder, ripstop is a grid-shaped pattern, more or less large and thick, which has its origins in military clothing. It was supposed to prevent tears, rip stop in English.
The fabric has a ripstop pattern, which is characterized by its small grid.
As a result, the Japanese supplier approached this nylon like cotton. It doesn't have at all the shine that you usually find on a bomber jacket, giving this synthetic appearance. That's what I liked about this subject.
“Japanese” colors
The bomber comes in two colors, khaki and ultramarine blue.
I'm a very big fan of khaki/olive colors when it's the Japanese who do them . There is always a subtlety that I have difficulty finding elsewhere; the others make too dark greens for my taste. Here, we find this slightly vintage shade that goes so well with all colors.
I find that the Japanese interpret khaki like no one else, always with this "vintage" side.
As for the ultramarine blue, it could have appeared "flat" but here too, the micro ripstop gives it all its charm . Note that it is quite dark: it is a color that will delight those who like to work with dark color palettes. In fact, it will go very well with black jeans!
Thanks to its shade, the blue bomber will go with both raw and black jeans.
But the interest of this material is not only its Japanese manufacturing, it is also the membrane which composes it. It's called the eVent...
eVent mounted on Japanese nylon
Basically, comes the need to protect yourself from the rain.
So we invented raincoats, but they had a big problem: they were absolutely not breathable. While they keep rain from getting on the wearer, they also keep sweat from getting out. Hello, the sauna effect.
This is where waterproof AND breathable membranes come in...
Anatomy of a membrane
It all starts with the first layer ; here, our Japanese ripstop nylon. It's the outer fabric that you see, period.
Below, you have this famous membrane. Here too, the principle is quite simple: the pores are large enough to evacuate sweat but too small to let a drop of rain enter. Just like on human skin. Gore-Tex, eVent, but also Neoshell and Pertex work on this principle. This is the second layer .
Then finally comes the third layer . It protects the membrane from friction of all kinds, but also from sebum, sunscreen... It looks like a fishnet, with mesh so fine and so small that it doesn't look like a fishnet! Perfectly stuck to the membrane, it is impossible to grab it.
This is why we talk about 2-layer waterproof jackets
There you have it, a 3 base coat.
The eVent is considered the great rival of Gore-Tex. Both materials are waterproof, but eVent claims its membrane is more breathable ...
eVent versus Gore-Tex: the membrane match
Focus on Gore-Tex
Among the elements likely to "contaminate" the Gore-Tex membrane, we include grease, sunscreen, insecticides... And if the membrane is contaminated, it is not complicated: it leaks and no longer provides protection. impermeability .
To protect the membrane, Gore-Tex then applies a thin layer of polyurethane (the “PU” that we can read everywhere).
The multiple layers of Gore-Tex in action!
Do you see the paradox? We apply a material that is ultimately not very breathable (PU) to the membrane that is supposed to be breathable! All within the material, not outside.
So what happens to the sweat? Gore-Tex found a solution by making PU hydrophilic. It will attract your perspiration to reject it as quickly as possible towards the breathable membrane, which itself will reject it to the outside. This is why the breathability of a jacket is measured by its evaporation capacity (to put it simply).
The problem is that PU provides an additional physical barrier between your sweating skin and the outside air. And for the evacuation process to be activated, you must start to sweat a minimum, otherwise the moisture in your body remains between your skin and the PU.
This is the fundamental difference between Gore Tex and eVent: eVent has no PU . The membrane is protected without having to resort to it, you fall directly onto the very breathable membrane.
We can clearly see the difference here, where images 1 and 2 consist of a Gore-Tex fabric while image 3 shows a more ventilated eVent membrane.
A well-kept secret...
If you've been following along, you must be wondering how the eVent membrane is protected from "contaminants" without PU.
The answer will disappoint you... or intrigue you!
In fact, it's a trade secret .
A textile engineer talked about an oleophobic coating
To put it simply, this is eVent.
For this reason, the eVent is said to “ventilate” sweat directly . He has also acquired the reputation of the most breathable material on the market.
There is still a lot to say about the advantages and disadvantages of each, the tests used or even the water-repellent treatment, but I think we would be a little off topic.
Yes, measuring breathability is a very serious subject, with a very precise protocol.
For the most curious, there is a plethora of comparative videos. This one is particularly funny...
Is the bomber waterproof?
I know that some brands play a lot on the ambivalence of certain terms like "waterproof".
Here, I will be very clear: the material of this bomber jacket is completely waterproof but, given that the seams are not heat-sealed
On the other hand, in the case of a light shower, it will do the job perfectly! I therefore prefer to say that it is water-repellent and “water resistant”.
A water-repellent and windproof material that will protect you from light rain.
Once again, the goal was not to make a completely waterproof piece, but to have a material that was beautiful, breathable and windproof. If it's waterproof as a bonus, so much the better, that's the bonus!
If you really want to wear this piece in case of heavy rain and you are looking for a way to protect your head, several possibilities are available to you:
- the SealSkinz brand, specialized in totally waterproof accessories. They make caps
, - Salomon offers a waterproof cap,
- for the more techwear, Nike ACG releases one from time to time, you just have to not miss the launch,
- and obviously... Coldsmoke also has an eVent cap!
The urban jungle test
Having worn this bomber a lot, I would like to share my feelings with you.
Initially, I was concerned that the lining would reduce the breathability of the outer material, but since it remains very thin, air circulates well .
I went to a trade show yesterday. I wore the khaki version, just a shirt underneath, and our cotton/linen jeans to see how they fade. When I left the house to go to the metro, I was afraid of being cold, but no problem in the end.
There was an incident on line 9, the train quickly found itself crowded. There, I was really able to appreciate the breathability of the piece...
Everyone was packed together, it was obviously hot, but I was surprised how livable it was. Much more than if I wore another jacket in fact. I sign and persist: it is a more breathable material than Gore-Tex Pro, which I was able to test extensively with my J1A-GT Acronym jacket. But in Gore-Tex Pro’s defense, it also meets different needs.
Move, your bomber jacket is breathing.
When I got out, I took a few drops of water but given the waterproofness of the material, I was very dry . But I suspected that.
I finally arrived at the living room. Usually, it's the kind of place where I always end up carrying my jacket in my hand because I'm too hot, which I hate. Do you see this overwhelming heat that we find in these immense and crowded places? Well, I was able to wear a bomber jacket all day: the breathability keeps its promises.
It is a piece that will suit those who have to manage the heat on a daily basis, on public transport or during the day. Or those who often feel like they're suffocating in their clothes, even when they think they've chosen the right outfit.
On the finishing side
The ribbing on the cuffs and collar also comes from California. It was knitted specifically for the piece and dyed by hand, in order to have the most accurate color possible.
Hand-dyed ribbing, made in California...
...For the fairest color possible.
The exterior pockets are closed with a personalized snap button . Take a close look! You will also find a small interior zipped pocket to keep your personal belongings safe.
As for the back, there is a set of cutouts in a nod to the Harrington jacket.
The cutout at the back is reminiscent of Harrington jackets.
The lining is also in a very fine nylon ripstop, from Japan , with a Swiss camouflage reinterpreted in Coldsmoke style. We can see small fir trees there which reflect their love of the mountains.
Liam also told us that it was a nod to their passion for pop art.
A true collaboration
I would like to thank Coldsmoke because, of all the brands we have collaborated with, it is one of the ones that has given us the most freedom to modify details and the fit. Usually, brands don't like us to touch their patronage (to "alter" it) but with Liam, it's very simple: he took all our requests into account. We changed a lot of things as the prototypes progressed...
- The cut is much more fitted on our collaboration . Not that it was too big before, but let's say that we felt the American origin and the sportswear heritage of the brand. We found a certain scale which was no longer necessary for urban use. Yes, so it’s an exclusive cut for us!
A comfortable and modern cut, exclusively developed for us. And if Coldsmoke ever wanted to reuse it for future pieces, we would be very proud to have left a mark on them.
- The initial zip pull was a little too “logoed” for us. So, they replaced it with a pretty grosgrain in their colors.
- We added ventilation eyelets to the armpits , and we wanted the zip of the interior pocket to be more discreet.
- We have completely revised the size of the pocket flaps, always with the idea of refining the silhouette.
For us, Coldsmoke added ventilation eyelets to the armpits. We also reworked the shape of the pocket.
Really, a big thank you to them . This is the collaboration for which we had the most prototypes; I assure you that few brands would have accepted so many modifications.
What about maintenance?
Machine wash it at 30°, then hang it to dry. No tumble dryer, no dry cleaning!
How to choose your size ?
Sizing is standard: just take your usual size!
How to wear this bomber?
Here, François opts for the khaki version of the bomber jacket and a taupe gray t-shirt. Automatically, the colors refer to the military origins of the piece. A color palette can play on the final “accent” of a look, just like shoes! (Maison Cornichon T-shirt, BonneGueule cotton linen Kurabo jeans, boots bought in a thrift store)
The bomber jacket has become a key piece of streetwear, there is no chance of going wrong by combining it with a tee and chinos. White sneakers reinforce this urban side. We could just as well have imagined a more daring pair given the sobriety of the outfit, it's up to you! (Maison Cornichon T-shirt, BonneGueule navy chinos, Common Projects sneakers)
Closed bomber jacket, that works too!
The bomber jacket/casual shirt combination works almost every time. The two passes are also positioned very well in relation to each other. With a nylon piece, don't hesitate to add texture to create relief, like here with the speckled shirt or the particular fabric of the jeans. (BonneGueule speckled shirt, BonneGueule cotton/linen Kurabo jeans, boots purchased at a thrift store)
A big thank you to François, a long-time reader, for joining us on this shoot!
How to get the BonneGueule x Coldsmoke bombers?
The official launch takes place this Sunday, September 24 at 2:00 p.m.
You can also find bombers in our stores in Paris
