I tested the 004 parka from Bastong (the South Korean Barbour)

Don't play innocent. I know exactly what you're thinking and I agree with you.

"Bastong" would make a perfect name for an open-toe wrestling sport.

This is how I see it: 3 fights of 3 minutes each, 1 minute of rest between each. To win, you have to succeed in removing your opponent's flip-flops. By force or trickery. Around the two fighters, a circle of spectators throws flip-flops at them to destabilize them.

If I get enough reactions, I'll launch the French Bastong Federation.

But that's not the point of this article at all. Let's be serious. We're talking about fashion here, get a grip.

This involves testing a long waxed cotton parka from the South Korean (and not very sporty) brand Bastong.

I received this parka at the beginning of March 2020 and was not able to test it until September 2020, due to the health crisis.

The promise behind this piece is protection against bad weather . So this test aims to answer these questions:

• What are the technical and aesthetic specificities of this parka?
• Is the promise kept?
• Do you recommend buying it?

All in all, are you getting value for your money?

Bastong , if it's not a combat sport, what is it?

Bastong is the South Korean Barbour.

I say this because Bastong's initial niche is outerwear . And its aesthetic is quite similar to the classic Barbour aesthetic: I'm thinking in particular of the short waxed cotton jackets.

However, this is reductive.

Bastong's inspiration doesn't stop there. In fact, the collection also features fatigue pants , OCBD shirts, cricket jumpers, pea coats and henleys.

Basically: Ivy, preppy, workwear, heritage, military.

You might think that the brand is going in all directions, but that's not the case. Because there is one thing that links all these pieces together: their ease of access. They are wearable on a daily basis by the average person.

Oh sometimes you'll find a shirt with mouse embroidery but the vast majority remains accessible, portable, basic one could say.

Mind you, not basic in the sense of essential. Basic in the broader sense of the term. Let me explain.

Are hazelnut or olive corduroy pants a basic? Yes and no. No because they are not essential. But yes because if you are looking for corduroy pants, both colors are a good base.

Yes, when you already have the essential basics but you are looking for something new, but not too flashy so as not to distort your style, you turn to other less basic basics. If anyone has understood something, let me know.

Two other things strike me: the cuts are classic but fitted, the materials are natural.

So, Bastong's vocation is to offer modern clothes for everyday life, basic but not boring .

That's Bastong, still not as cool as the combat sport I was talking about, but it's still pretty good. Now let's move on to this parka.

Parka 004

It costs 597,000 won or 447 euros . I should point out that it was given to me for the purpose of carrying out this test.

Here is the autopsy of the piece:

• Exterior in 100% British Millerain waxed cotton
• Lining in 100% cotton
• YKK zippers
• Kane-M buttons stamped Bastong
• Made in South Korea

And I don't see anywhere the notion of waterproofness, water repellency or protection against wind. It is therefore a tacit promise, which the brand does not claim.

Now, let's move on to some in-person photos of the piece.

1. The parka on the shoulders of a human being

The human being in question is 1m80 and 73kg. He wears it in L. This is his usual size for this type of piece.

The measurements of the parka in this size are as follows:

• 53 cm in width
• 64 cm half chest
• 77 cm sleeves
• 96 cm total length

I purposely stay straight as a stick so you can appreciate the cut.

And also, I don't smile. That's to keep my reputation as a misanthrope with the neighbors who watch me take pictures of myself in the common yard. Very important. That way, when they run out of butter, they won't go to me.

Front view, open parka

The photos surprised me.

The volume of the parka doesn't stand out too much here. This is because I am static. Because the parka doesn't fit into the width of the silhouette.

The volume is appreciated from the side.

In profile, open parka

It is interesting to compare feeling and reality.

When you move, you really have the impression of a large volume moving around you. It's pleasant, by the way. Same for the length.

Here you can see that it comes to my knees. Even slightly above. However, I really have the impression, when wearing it, that it goes down further.

Almost mid-shin.

From behind, open parka

A detail that has its importance: the drawstring clearly visible in the back. It serves to cinch of course. But also has a visual utility because it allows you to roughly locate your size. And thus energize the silhouette.

Otherwise you would have a big tartan block with no beginning, no end, no middle. And you could make 8 meters as much as 15cm. We wouldn't understand.

There, thanks to the cord, the silhouette is cut into three fairly equal parts : from the feet to the bottom of the parka, from the bottom of the parka to the cord, from the cord to the top of the skull.

Dynamism. Elegance. Easy to read your silhouette. You make hearts flutter. You get your bank loan.

Another thing: we notice that there is no slit at the bottom of the parka. It's a bit reminiscent of ponchos.

For those wondering, it's not a problem when moving around because the front zipper stops where it should as you can see in the photo below.

Front ready for bad weather, parka closed

From the front, the pockets serve the same visual function as the cord. They are used to store things, yes, but they also help to divide the silhouette into three and make it more readable.

The fact that the pockets are arranged at an angle is reminiscent of military parkas. This design detail, in addition to giving the parka personality, makes it pleasant to use.

Plus, they're pretty big. That doesn't hurt.

I add that it is easy to put your hands in the pockets, to take them out. And their good position on the garment means you don't have to look when you put your hands in them.

This kind of detail matters. It's the line between a good garment and a garment that makes you smile when you put it on in the morning.

That's it for the cut.

Let's move on to the details of the making.

2. We put the parka under the microscope

The material: between technicality and sensuality

This is where the resemblance with Barbour is obvious. Since the material used by Bastong is waxed cotton. The material that made Barbour's heyday.

I don't know if Barbour sources from British Millerain.

What I do know is that Barbour was founded in 1894, British Millerain in 1880 and, hold on to your hats, it designed its first waterproof fabric in waxed cotton in 1894.

Coincidence?

I DON'T BELIEVE.

But I don't really know what to do with this information.

Let's get a little technical. The material is waterproof.

Well, let's say very water-repellent. I don't know if the term waterproof is a bit too much here. In any case, it's more than enough for our climates in France.

When it rains, I don't think about it and I know I'll be dry. The parka doesn't have welded seams but that's not a problem. We rarely walk for hours in the rain. And if that's your daily life, then don't take this jacket and turn to technical brands like Arc'Teryx and company .

That's not all.

This material is windproof. It's true that we feel protected with it. The gusts of wind don't send shivers down our spines.

Moreover, it shares these two characteristics (windproof and waterproof or extremely water-repellent) with Ventile®, a fabric also created in England.

So we can ask ourselves: is waxed cotton better or worse than Ventile®?

Let's move away from the technical dimension and towards a more emotional dimension.

What I like most about this subject is its perspective of evolution.

It's a bit like the counterpart of raw denim. Look at this jacket and admire its patina:

My Bastong will follow the same path. Besides, she has already started to change.

When I got it in March, it was dark. The very faded tartan was not very visible. Now that I have worn it in the rain, the green stands out more. You can also see the difference between the photo on the hanger and the photos worn.

Well, that's not so much the patina as the fact that the wax is fading. That's normal.

Waxed cotton needs to be maintained.

As you use it, it loses its waterproofness and therefore needs to be rewaxed. A bit like a mechanical watch that needs to be wound up regularly.

It is a constraint. But a constraint full of charm. Take the time to do it like you polish your shoes. Time stops. You do something with your ten fingers. Once it is done you have the feeling of having accomplished something.

Waxing is good for the ego.

I don't know the frequency of maintenance yet, but blindly I would say once a year is enough. If you live in an area with moderate rainfall and don't spend much time outdoors. But if your use is more intense, it will vary.

On this subject Julien, from Borali , wrote a very enlightening article on how to wax a jacket . It is very well done and makes me want to try it.

And here, I put you a video tutorial from Barbour for the same objective.

Let's not mince our words: waxed cotton is sensual. A particular touch, a little sticky, a little typical smell and if you taste it, it must have a little aroma all the same!

No I say that because the wax is made from linseed oil , it is edible. Otherwise why lick your parka I ask you! And also because of the label that is inside the jacket.

Well, the label breaks the madness right away: don't lick this parka . It might be safer indeed. In any case, it's an interesting label, like we rarely see, and it's pleasant.

This parka doesn't smell very much, by the way. After all, anyone buying waxed cotton has to get used to it. And that's part of the fun, I think!

When I get in the back of a taxi at the end of the night with friends and the smell of my Barbour wafts out, I exult. I share, there's no reason to keep the little pleasures of life to yourself.

There is also a handwritten note at the bottom of the label, which is a detail that is interesting even for a foreigner. It indicates care and time. It also indicates respect for the consumer.

It's true !

It is the link that exists between the designer, those who made the piece, the one who sold it and the final consumer. This writing is the human before the business, the heart before the reason.

And that's precisely what interests me.

Well, what else does this parka have in store?

The buttons: a small negative point for me

They click-click as they should. That's not the problem.

Here is a comparative photograph of the buttons before 2018 on the left and after on the right.

We see that before, they were in relief and now not. Why?

With raised buttons, you run the risk of damaging the coat by friction, especially the sleeves. I think it's this abrasive side that made you change the buttons.

The tagline has also changed, going from "Rain & Sunshine" to "Symbol of Quality". This is a brand-specific decision that I won't comment on here. I can simply say that I preferred the old buttons because they had a more artisanal and sensual feel .

Yes, we're coming back!

Looking at them, I can almost feel the relief under the pads of my fingers. Can't you?

This is a negative point, in my opinion. Even if it is a reasonable choice from a brand that wants its products to last as long as possible.

Second negative point for me: the branding of the buttons. I would have preferred something sober, at least flashy. The zippers are already gold , the buttons didn't need to be as visible, nor did they need to display the brand name.

On a whim, I'll sand all of these buttons! It'll only be more beautiful.

The inside of the parka: it's beautiful

The inside of the jacket is elegant. I particularly like this herringbone cotton twill which is there to recall the military side of the piece. It is the same fabric (HBT) that was used for certain pieces like the fatigue pants of the GIs.

Once again, this shows all the care that is taken in the making of the piece .

Not much to add here, except perhaps to note the presence of the two interior pockets. They are practical.

Also note: the loop to protect the drawstring at the waist. I find it all quite neat.

And this goes right down to the little pieces of black leather that are used to block the cords.

The hood: everything you can expect from it

It fits the head properly , protecting it without hindering its movements.

You can insulate yourself from the wind even more if you want by using the drawstrings. Nothing like it to look like a d**k, but sometimes you have to sacrifice style for a little comfort.

No I'm kidding, no sacrifice with this parka. We're always on top.

Loose cords:

Tight cords:

How are you !

We keep our dignity.

The parka, after about a month of use

It's comfortable to wear. Better! I'm always excited to wear it.

Firstly because its cut allows you to play with layers of clothing, depending on the temperature. So it's perfect for the mid-season.

Waxed cotton is not breathable as we have seen, but Bastong has equipped its parka with ventilation holes. Which means that you don't feel like you're in an oven.

Winter will get the better of it and I will leave it in the closet. Unless I find a vintage (or not) liner in the style of those intended for M-51 fishtail parkas. Maybe that will be enough when the cold is not too aggressive.

I must say that the parka is really windproof . Which means that, even if it is not thick, it insulates from the cold. That's why I like to wear it when I'm cycling.

The neck is protected. And if necessary, we put on a scarf. And the body does not suffer from the wind.

On the other hand, the latter passes through the sleeves , devoid of ribbing. You must therefore rely on the layer underneath to prevent it from seeping in, mischievous as it is.

And he loves playing with the parka. Since it is long, sometimes when walking a piece of the parka gets stuck against our legs. Or it gently flies away. It can be annoying when you walk against the wind.

For me, it's part of the game to have a slightly long parka and even the pleasure of wearing it.

Style

This is not a style article, it is a test. But I can't resist the urge to offer you some ideas.

You see it in thisPanache on the cargo ship at 6:43:

The tartan is blended enough not to be too aggressive. So it's easy to wear this parka. You have to pretend it's a navy blue coat with discreet green highlights.

Match your clothes with this blue and, if you wish, make subtle reminders of this green. For example:

Here is an easy outfit for a rainy day in the fall. To improve this outfit, just smile unlike me.

Otherwise, we can also play with the geometric aspect of the tartan:

Generally speaking, I recommend wearing straight-cut, loose-fitting pants with this parka (20cm leg opening or so). It will look more harmonious in my opinion.

Although we can also play it Mod with a close-fitting charcoal gray suit and Chelsea boots.

Verdict

The promise of protection from the elements is implied by the shape of the parka and its technical specifications. But there is no mention of this on the sales page .

What I can say about it: for 447 euros, the Bastong parka is worth its price.

The manufacturing details are numerous and the finishes are neat. It is a solid piece, made to last.

Its material, if not as breathable as a Ventile®, is not unpleasant to wear thanks to the small ventilation holes. The waxed cotton from British Millerain offers good protection against the rain. The only downside is that the material has to be rewaxed from time to time.

What I like about this parka:

• Its length
• The fact that it is windproof
• This melted tartan which is revealed by friction and rain
• Its magnitude
• The double zip

Of course, if you order it on the brand's website, you have to take into account the shipping costs and a possible amount due to customs (around €30). This degrades its quality/price ratio. However, products of this type are quite rare elsewhere.

If you ever find yourself in Seoul, Bastong is a must-visit. I bet their customer service is impeccable. In any case, I know their products are made with a keen eye for detail and a passion for sustainable clothing.

In conclusion, if you come across me in the streets of Paris between now and the middle of winter, it is possible that you will see me with it.