I tested the 004 parka from Bastong (the South Korean Barbour)

Don't act innocent. I know exactly what you are saying and I agree with you.

“Bastong” would make a perfect name for a sport of open sandal wrestling.

This is how I see things: 3 fights of 3 minutes each, 1 minute of rest between each. To win, you must succeed in removing your opponent's flip-flops. By force or trickery. Around the two fighters, an audience in a circle throws flip-flops at them to destabilize them.

If I collect enough reactions, I will launch the French Bastong Federation.

But that is not at all the point of this article. Be serious. We're talking about fashion here, pull yourself together.

This involves testing a long waxed cotton parka from the South Korean brand (and rarely worn for sports) Bastong.

I received this parka at the beginning of March 2020 and was not able to test it before September 2020, due to the health crisis.

The promise behind this piece is protection against bad weather . So this test aims to answer these questions:

• What are the technical and aesthetic specificities of this parka?
• Is the promise kept?
• Do we advise you to buy it?

In short, are you getting what you pay for?

Bastong , if it's not a combat sport, what is it?

Bastong is the South Korean Barbour.

I say that because Bastong's initial niche is outerwear . And its aesthetic is quite similar to the classic Barbour one: I'm thinking in particular of the short waxed cotton jackets.

However, this is reductive.

Bastong's inspiration doesn't stop there. In fact, the collection also includes fatigue pants , OCBD shirts, cricket sweaters, pea coats and henleys.

Basically: Ivy, preppy, workwear, heritage, military.

You might think that the brand is going in all directions, but that’s not the case. Because there is one thing that links all these pieces together: their ease of access. They are wearable on a daily basis by ordinary people.

Oh sometimes you'll find a shirt with mouse embroidery but the vast majority remains accessible, portable, basic ones you could say.

Be careful, not basic in the sense of essential. Basic in the broader sense of the term. Let me explain.

Are hazel or olive corduroy pants a basic? Yes and no. No because it is not essential. But yes because if you are looking for corduroy pants, the two colors offered are a good base.

Yes, when you already have the essential basics but you are looking for something new, but not too flashy so as not to distort your style, you turn to other less basic basics. If anyone has understood something, please let me know.

Two other things strike me: the cuts are classic but fitted, the materials are natural.

So, Bastong's vocation is to offer modern clothing for everyday life, basic but not boring .

That's what Bastong is, still not as cool as the combat sport I was talking about, but it's not bad. Now let's move on to this parka.

The 004 parka

It costs 597,000 won or 447 euros . I specify that it was given to me for the purpose of carrying out this test.

Here is the autopsy of the piece:

• Exterior in 100% British Millerain waxed cotton
• 100% cotton lining
• YKK zippers
• Kane-M buttons stamped Bastong
• Made in South Korea

And I don't see anywhere the notion of waterproofing, water repellency or wind protection. It is therefore a tacit promise, which the brand does not claim.

Now let's move on to some worn photos of the room.

1. The parka on the shoulders of a human being

The human being in question is 1m80 and 73kg. He wears it in an L. This is his usual size for this type of piece.

The measurements of the parka in this size are as follows:

• 53 cm in width
• 64 cm half chest
• 77 cm sleeves
• 96 cm total length

I purposely stay straight as a rod to allow you to appreciate the cut.

And also, I don't smile. This is to maintain my reputation as a misanthrope among the neighbors who watch me take a photo of myself in the common courtyard. Very important. That way, when they run out of butter, it's not me they'll go to see.

Front, open parka

The photos surprised me.

The volume of the parka doesn't stand out too much here. This is because I am static. Because the parka does not fit the width of the silhouette.

The volume is appreciated in profile.

In profile, open parka

It's interesting to compare feeling and reality.

When you move, you really have the impression of a large volume moving around you. It's nice, by the way. Same for the length.

Here you can see that it reaches my knees. Even slightly above. However, I really have the impression, when wearing it, that it goes down further.

Almost mid-shin.

From the back, open parka

Important detail: the clearly visible drawstring in the back. It is used for bending of course. But also has a visual utility because it allows you to roughly locate your height. And thus energize the silhouette.

Otherwise you would have a large tartan block with no beginning, end or middle. And you could do 8 meters as much as 15cm. We wouldn't understand.

There, thanks to the cord, the silhouette is cut into three fairly equal parts : from the feet to the bottom of the parka, from the bottom of the parka to the cord, from the cord to the top of the head.

Dynamism. Elegance. Easy to read your silhouette. You make hearts capsize. You get your bank loan.

Another thing: we notice that there is no slit at the bottom of the parka. It's a bit reminiscent of ponchos.

For those who are wondering, it is not bothersome when you move because the front zipper stops where it should as you see in the photo below.

Front ready for bad weather, closed parka

From the front, the pockets perform the same visual function as the drawstring. They are used to store things, yes, but they also allow you to divide the silhouette into three and make it more readable.

The fact that the pockets are arranged at an angle is reminiscent of military parkas. This design detail, in addition to giving personality to the parka, makes using it pleasant.

Plus, they're pretty big. It doesn't spoil anything.

I add that it is easy to put your hands in your pockets and take them out. And their good position on the garment means you don't have to look when you place your hands there.

This kind of detail matters. It's the line that exists between a good piece of clothing and a piece of clothing that makes you smile when you put it on in the morning.

That's it for the cut.

Let's move on to the manufacturing details.

2. We put the parka under the microscope

The material: between technicality and sensuality

This is where the resemblance to Barbour is obvious. Since the material used by Bastong is waxed cotton. Material that made Barbour's heyday.

I don't know if Barbour sources from British Millerain.

What I do know, however, is that Barbour was born in 1894, British Millerain in 1880 and, get this, she designed her first waterproof fabric in waxed cotton in 1894.

Coincidence?

I DO NOT BELIEVE.

But I don't really know what to do with this information.

Let's talk a little technical. The material is waterproof.

Well, let's say very water-repellent. I don't know if the term waterproof is a bit too much here. In any case, it is more than sufficient for our climates in France.

When it rains, I don't think and I know I will be dry. The parka does not have taped seams but that is not a problem. We rarely walk for hours in the rain. And if this is your daily life, then don't take this jacket and turn to technical brands like Arc'Teryx and company .

That's not all.

This material is windproof. It's true that we feel protected with her. The squalls do not cause great shivers down our spines.

Moreover, it shares these two characteristics (windproof and waterproof or extremely water-repellent) with Ventile®, a fabric also created in England.

So we can ask ourselves: is waxed cotton better or worse than Ventile®?

Let's move away from the technical dimension and towards a more emotional dimension.

What I like above all about this subject is its perspective of evolution.

It's a bit like the counterpart of raw denim. Look at this jacket and admire its patina:

Ma Bastong will follow the same path. Besides, she has already started to change.

When I got her in March, she was dark. The very melted tartan could not be seen well. Now that I've worn it in the rain, the green stands out more. We can also see the difference between the photo on the hanger and the photos worn.

Well, it's not so much the patina as the fact that the wax is fading. It's normal.

Waxed cotton is easy to maintain.

As it is used, it loses its waterproofness and therefore, it must be rewaxed. A bit like a mechanical watch that needs to be wound regularly.

It's a constraint. But a constraint full of charm. Take the time to do it like you shine your shoes. Time stops. You do something with your ten fingers. Once it's done you feel like you've accomplished something.

Waxing is good for the ego.

I don't yet know the frequency of maintenance but, blindly, I would say that once a year is enough. If you live in a moderately rainy area and don't spend your time outside. But if your use is more intense, this will vary.

On this subject Julien, from Borali , wrote a very enlightening article on how to wax a jacket . It's very well done and makes me want to try it.

And here, I put you a tutorial video from Barbour for the same objective.

Let's not be afraid of words: waxed cotton is sensual. A particular touch, a little sticky, a little typical smell and if you taste it it must have a little aroma all the same!

No, I say that because the wax is made from linseed oil , it is edible. Otherwise, why lick your parka, I ask you! And then also because of the label inside the jacket.

Well the label breaks the madness right away: don't lick this parka . It might actually be more prudent. In any case, it's an interesting label, as we rarely see it and it's pleasant.

She smells very little in this parka. Afterwards, anyone buying waxed cotton must get used to it. And that’s part of the fun, I think!

When I get into the back of a taxi at the end of the evening with friends and the smell of my Barbour wafts out, I exult. I agree, there is no reason to keep the little pleasures of life to yourself.

We also see a handwritten note at the bottom of the label, it is a detail worthy of interest even for a foreigner. It indicates care and time. It also indicates respect for the consumer.

It's true !

It is the link that exists between the designer, those who made the piece, the person who sold it and the final consumer. This writing is people before business, the heart before reason.

And that’s precisely what interests me.

Okay, but what else does this parka have in her stomach?

The buttons: small negative point for me

They click-click as they should. That's not the problem.

Here is a comparative photograph of the buttons before 2018 on the left and after on the right.

We see that before, they were in relief and now not anymore. For what ?

With raised buttons, there is the risk of damaging the coat through friction, especially the sleeves. I think it was this abrasive side that made the buttons change.

The tagline also changed, from "Rain & Sunshine" to "Symbol of Quality". This is a trade-off specific to the brand that I will not comment on here. I can simply say that I preferred the old buttons because it had a more artisanal and sensual side .

Yes, we’re coming back!

Seeing them, I can almost feel the relief under the pads of my fingers. Not you ?

This is a negative point, in my opinion. Although it is a reasonable choice from a brand that wants its products to last as long as possible.

Second negative point for me: the branding of the buttons. I would have preferred something sober, at least flashy. Already the zips are golden , the buttons didn't need to be seen as much, nor did they need to display the brand name.

On a whim, I'll sand these buttons all down! It will only be more beautiful.

The inside of the parka: it’s beautiful

The inside of the jacket is elegant. I particularly like this herringbone cotton twill which is there to recall the military side of the piece. It's the same fabric (HBT) that was used for certain pieces like the GIs' fatigue pants.

Once again, this still shows all the care that went into making the piece .

Not much to add here, other than perhaps noting the presence of the two interior pockets. They are practical.

Also note: the braid to protect the drawstring at the waist. I find it all quite clean.

And this right down to the small pieces of black leather which are used to block the cords.

The hood: everything you can expect from it

It fits the head correctly , protecting it without hindering its movements.

You can insulate yourself from the wind even more if you wish by using the drawstrings. There's nothing like it for looking stupid, but sometimes you have to sacrifice style for a little comfort.

No, I'm kidding, no sacrifices with this parka. We are always on top.

Loose cords:

The tight cords:

How are you !

We keep our dignity.

The parka, after about a month of use

It is pleasant to wear. Better ! I'm still excited to wear it.

Firstly because its cut allows you to play with layers of clothing, depending on the temperature. So it's perfect for the mid-season.

Waxed cotton is not breathable as we have seen, but Bastong has equipped its parka with ventilation holes. Which means you don't feel like you're in an oven.

Winter will get the better of her and I will leave her in the closet. Unless I find a vintage liner (or not) in the style of those intended for the M-51 fishtail parka. Maybe this can be enough when the cold is not too aggressive.

It must be said that the parka is really windproof . Which means that, even if it is not thick, it insulates from the cold. That's why I like to wear it when I'm on my bike.

The neck is protected. And if necessary, we put on a scarf. And the body does not suffer from the wind.

On the other hand, the latter passes through the sleeves , which have no ribbing. We must therefore rely on the layer below to prevent it from infiltrating, mischievous as it is.

And he actually loves playing with the parka. As it is long, it sometimes happens that when walking, a section of the parka is pressed against our legs. Or that it flies away nicely. It can be disturbing when walking against the wind.

For me, it's part of the fun of having a slightly long parka and even the pleasure of wearing it.

Style

This is not a style article, it's a test. But I can't resist the urge to offer you some ideas.

You see it in thisPanache on the freighter at 6:43:

The tartan is blended enough not to be too aggressive. So, it's easy to wear this parka. You have to pretend it's a navy blue coat with discreet green highlights.

Match your clothes with this blue and, if you wish, make subtle reminders of this green. For example :

This is an easy outfit for a rainy fall day. To improve this outfit, just smile unlike me.

Otherwise, we can also play with the geometric aspect of the tartan:

Generally speaking, I advise you to wear straight-cut and rather loose pants with this parka (20cm leg opening or approximately). It will be more harmonious in my opinion.

Although we can also play it Mod's with a close-fitting anthracite gray suit and Chelsea boots.

Verdict

The promise of protection against the elements is induced by the shape of the parka and its technical specifications. But no mention on the sales page goes in this direction .

What I can say about it: for 447 euros, the Bastong parka is worth its price.

The manufacturing details are numerous and the finishes are neat. It's a solid piece, made to last.

Its material, although not as breathable as Ventile®, is not unpleasant to wear thanks to the convenient small ventilation holes. Waxed cotton from British Millerain offers good protection against the rain. The only downside is that you have to rewax the material from time to time.

What I like about this parka:

• Its length
• The fact that it is windproof
• This melted tartan which reveals itself with friction and rain
• Its magnitude
• The double-zip

Of course, if you order it on the brand's website, you have to take into account the shipping costs and a possible amount due to customs (around €30). This degrades its quality/price ratio. However, products of this type are otherwise quite rare.

If you ever find yourself in Seoul, Bastong is a must. I am convinced that their customer service is impeccable. In any case, I know that their products are made with a keen eye for detail and a passion for sustainable clothing.

In conclusion, if you meet me in the streets of Paris between now and midwinter, you may see me with it.