Advice: What shoes to wear in winter and how to maintain them?

Is there still any need to remind you of the importance of a pair of shoes for a man?

They are the ones who set the tone for an outfit : a bad choice can quickly ruin your look, even if it was well thought out. This is especially true in winter.

For those who are still wondering, there are shoes that are suitable for cold and rain... And, conversely, other models that you should avoid when the mercury drops.

The "seasonality" of a pair has nothing to do with the trend: the style of shoes, depending on whether we are in a period of extreme cold or during sunny days, will often be different. We will not talk about fashion or trends, we will focus on more constant aspects.

Here we go!

Knowing how to adapt your choices to the season

While some models can be worn all year round, it is also good to have a few jokers to take out in case of cold, snow or rain.

The shoes to choose

In winter, the cold and humidity will clearly put your shoes and feet to the test, more than the rest of the year. It is therefore essential to choose sturdy models.

It's time to get out your best boots ! Let's take a look at the most practical ones this season: combat boots.

You can match thisNDC model with big knitted socks with quirky prints, knitted by your grandmother for Christmas. Lucky you!

Impossible to wear in summer, they reappear in mid-season and in winter. You will be able to treat yourself with this massive and rustic style , referring to an adventurer / backpacker imagination.

A beautiful pair of lace-up boots from the AMI brand. The leatherwork gives them a more precious side than other models, the "raw" side is less emphasized. High, they will dress your ankles and protect you from drafts.

With this in mind, remember that high-top shoes will be your best friends . The ankles are particularly exposed to drafts when you walk, even more so when you are sitting. If you are the type to have small coffees on a terrace in the sun - even in winter - high-top shoes will prove to be an unstoppable asset. It would be a shame to deprive yourself...

This type of sole will constitute a good first line of defense against possible water infiltration.

Finally, as with combat boots, dare to wear more imposing shoes, especially in terms of soles . Whether sneakers, ankle boots or brogues, thick layers of leather or, better, rubber, will always be welcome in winter.

It's also an opportunity to build a winter wardrobe with more workwear inspirations, a little "rustic". Far from your more summery outfits - linen shirt, short shorts and espadrilles - we put on thick raw jeans, a lumberjack shirt or a pretty knit, and a lined jacket or a wool coat.

So, in cold weather, combat boots or high sneakers will be perfect to dress up your outfits.

Mid-top or hi-top sneakers will do the trick, as long as they are made of leather and have good soles.

So if there are models to favor, there are clearly others to avoid. Let me enlighten you...

Pairs to leave in the closet

Some models are prohibited in winter, for reasons that are more practical than aesthetic.

However, I would like to draw your attention to a recurring question: that of canvas shoes. Every year, as the cold sets in, I come across many people who dare to wear jeans rolled up above the ankle with canvas or, worse, mesh fabric tennis shoes/running shoes. 

Canvas (cotton at least) has a low insulating power. It will mainly absorb moisture from the outside, nothing worse for having wet and frozen feet.

Practical and comfortable in summer, canvas slip-ons and mesh sneakers lose all appeal in winter.

It is also better to avoid shoes that are too fragile, made from fine, worked leathers. , in nubuck... If some can protect against the cold, we note that on the other hand, they do not appreciate water at all.

Worse, snow becomes extremely dirty when it melts. The perforations can blacken, the patinas deteriorate by forming halos and the suede leathers in light tones become stained almost irreparably.

A great choice for spring or early summer, Clarks desert boot models are not suitable for harsh winters.

Let’s go into a little more detail, by looking at the elements that make winter shoes good – or fragile.

These elements that make good winter shoes

The choice of materials on the outside... but also on the inside!

No one would wear big wool sweaters in the summer. But in the winter, what a pleasure to bring out your big knits. Same principle for shoes.

To begin this overview of materials, I would like to talk to you about wool, which we see more and more in the manufacture of shoes. Waterproofed, they allow you to benefit from its thermoregulatory qualities without taking on water.

In terms of style, I find that it brings a real plus, between the nobility of the material and the rusticity of the texture.

It is also very easy to maintain.

This applies to the outside, but also to the inside of the shoe: some wool linings have solid insulating and warming properties. Let's also remember that winter is the season for "furry" leathers.

I am obviously thinking of sheepskin, with smooth or velvety skin on the outside and fur on the inside . I have a pair myself and they are a real joy… You would almost hesitate to wear them even in very cold weather because they keep you so warm.

Here is an example of sneakers lined with wool, which provides even more comfort and warmth to the wearer.

Smooth leathers are also very present in winter : without being as insulating as a sheepskin, they still guarantee a minimum comfort and a very appreciable robustness. In terms of quality, as usual, be careful to have a leather with a regular appearance, supple and pleasant to the touch.

A leather with a silky appearance, beautiful reflections, a deep color and a very regular grain: this is an excellent quality leather, which comes from Carmina .

As for sheepskin, I would tend to advise you to avoid synthetic: it is certainly cheaper but, having worn it, it can quickly become unpleasant when you are indoors. The fact that synthetic is made from plastic means that it is not breathable.

I sometimes felt like I was stepping into a pressure cooker when I went from a very cold exterior to a heated interior.

Death combo: cardboard-looking leather, haphazardly done seams and, above all, rough-looking synthetic fur.

Now let's see what the different assemblies are.

The assembly, function of the insulation of a shoe

I will distinguish two main types of assemblies: sewn and glued.

Sewn shoes

The unbeatable Norwegian stitching

More complex to make, but undeniably more noble and above all more robust, sewn assemblies often win our preference. Especially since in winter, robustness is more than welcome.

It will even be an opportunity to test out designs that can only be worn in this season, such as Norwegian stitching – its name is already a sign… even if it was invented in Italy.

It has two levels of visible seams on the outside of the sole. It is therefore very solid to the eye. It is also characterized by the presence of an intermediate sole in addition to the welt. Shoes made using this method are therefore completely waterproof , and the solidity of the assembly is remarkable.

Perfect for a mountain trek or snowy asphalt.

Bonne Gueule x Heschung collaboration , example of Norwegian stitching.

The Goodyear Alternative

The Goodyear is also interesting, thanks to the welt which obstructs the gaps that could let water through.

A beautiful model in Goodyear from Loding .

The Blake, less relevant in winter...

We can clearly see the finesse of the Blake assembly and the line that it gives to the shoe. However, in winter, it is not the best!

Finally, we have the Blake, favored by lovers of fine and elegant shoes, made without welt.

It has some drawbacks for a winter shoe : its thinness and the absence of a welt, which expose it more than the others to rain, snow and cold.

Without a rubber pad under the sole, it becomes difficult to go out with Blake in wet weather. And with a pad, the slightest puddle thicker than the thin sole will soak the leather and the inside of the shoes. A word to the wise.

The installation of skates - ideally accompanied by embedded irons - quickly becomes essential to avoid soles that are too slippery, protect against humidity and preserve the sole.

My advice:

• choose Norwegian stitching for adventurers or lovers of chunky shoes ,

• Goodyear for more formal shoes with less exposure to humidity

• possibly, Blake for going out in very dry weather .

"Glued" shoes

There are some very good quality glued assemblies, but the manufacturing is often less robust than on sewn assemblies.

The use of plastic/rubber materials is interesting for their insulating power against water. On the other hand, the assembly risks being weakened by the slightest drop that gets into it.

Your glued sneakers (especially canvas ones) may not be able to withstand the rain and snow on a daily basis in winter.

If you have a good pair of glued sneakers, the first few years you won't have any problems. But at the slightest crack or crease, you risk having infiltration problems.

In terms of thermal insulation, the thickness of certain soles can be interesting, even if these materials do not keep you warm as standard.

Now let's move on to daily maintenance...

Caring for your shoes in winter

It is important to maintain your shoes regularly, especially in winter. About twice a month for a pair worn regularly.

What should you do if you step in a puddle or slush and your shoes get dirty?

For smooth and oily leathers

Let it dry first before pampering your shoes.

Pay particular attention to cleaning with milk : it is super important to remove any remaining dirt and salt. .

Make sure to let it dry well and then proceed to creaming, even if it means taking a break to ensure that the leather reacts well and regains its color.

Here too, you can wax if you wish.

Leather's worst enemy: salt water.

Taking care of your suede shoes

Instead of simply brushing and polishing the leather with a brass brush, I recommend using a suede eraser in case of stains, then a suede leather cleaner such as Omnidaim from the Saphir brand.

Now let's imagine that you accidentally stepped in a deep puddle or that an ace driver got your shoes wet.

When you get home, lay them on their side , always away from a source of heat.

It will normally take several hours to evacuate all the moisture. It is also possible to stuff them with newspaper to speed up the process. Once completely dry, the shoes will need to undergo a little maintenance in the rules, not forgetting to insist, here too, on cleaning and nourishing.

Nourishing shoe polish from the Saphir brand to be applied regularly for good care of your shoes.

When leather cracks...

Here, it is likely that the origin of the problem is not entirely due to unfavourable climatic conditions.

You will need to insist on nourishing the leather, even if it means repeating the operation two or three times over several days without wearing the shoes in between, to allow the cream to infiltrate all the layers of the leather...

The final word...

It's time to get out your most robust and bulky shoes. We prefer high-top models — boots or sneakers — because they protect the ankles better from the cold.

Of course, it is not forbidden to keep your usual shoes. Be careful, however, with materials that are too thin or too fragile: winter is the ideal season to enjoy warm materials, such as tweed or sheepskin.

Whatever the material chosen, good maintenance will be essential to preserve your favorite shoes: it is an essential step on which you should not skimp.

And even in the event of an accident, there is (almost) always a way to recover!