Advice: What shoes to wear in winter and how to maintain them?

Is there still a need to remember the importance of a pair of shoes for a man?

They are what set the tone of an outfit : a bad choice can quickly ruin your look, even if it is so well thought out. This is even more true in winter.

For those who are still wondering, there are many shoes suitable for cold and rain... And, conversely, other models that you will need to avoid when the mercury drops.

The “seasonality” of a pair has nothing to do with the trend: the style of the shoes, depending on whether you are in a very cold period or on sunny days, will often be different. We will not talk about fashion or trends, we will focus on more constant aspects.

Let's go !

Know how to adapt your choices to the season

While some models can be worn all year round, at the same time, it is good to have a few jokers to pull out in case of cold, snow or rain.

The shoes to favor

In winter, the cold and humidity will clearly put your shoes and feet to the test, more than the rest of the year. It is therefore essential to favor robust models.

It's time to bring out your most beautiful boots ! Let’s look at the most practical one this season: combat boots.

You can match thisNDC model with chunky knit socks with quirky prints, knitted by your grandmother for Christmas. Lucky little ones!

Impossible to wear in summer, they reappear mid-season and in winter. You will be able to please yourself with this massive and rustic style , reminiscent of an adventurer / adventurer imagination.

A beautiful pair of lace-up boots from the AMI brand. The leather work gives them a more precious side than other models, the "raw" side is less pronounced. High, they will cover your ankles and protect you from drafts.

With this in mind, remember that high-top shoes will be your best friends . Ankles are particularly exposed to drafts when you walk, even more so when you sit. If you are the type to have small coffees on the terrace in the sun - even in winter - high shoes will prove to be the unstoppable asset. It would be a shame to deprive yourself...

This type of sole will constitute a good first line of defense against possible water infiltration.

Finally, as with combat boots, dare to wear more imposing shoes, especially with regard to the soles . Whether sneakers, ankle boots or brogues, thick layers of leather or, better, rubber, will always be welcome in winter.

It’s also an opportunity to put together a winter wardrobe with more workwear, slightly “rustic” inspirations. Far from your more summery outfits - linen shirt, short shorts and espadrilles - here we put on very thick raw jeans, a lumberjack shirt or a pretty knit, and a lined jacket or a wool coat.

So, in cold weather, combat boots or high sneakers will be perfect to dress up your outfits.

Mid-top or hi-top sneakers will do the trick, provided they are made of leather and have good soles.

If there are therefore models to favor, there are clearly others to avoid. Let me enlighten you...

Pairs to leave in the closet

Certain models are prohibited in winter, for reasons more practical than aesthetic.

However, I would like to draw your attention to a recurring question: that of canvas shoes. Every year, as the cold sets in, I meet many people who risk wearing jeans rolled up above the ankle with sneakers/running shoes in canvas or, worse, in mesh fabric. 

Canvas (cotton at least) has low insulating power. Above all, it will absorb moisture from the outside, nothing worse than having soaked and frozen feet.

Practical and comfortable in summer, canvas slip-ons and mesh sneakers lose all interest in winter.

It is also better to avoid shoes that are too fragile, made from fine, worked leathers. , in nubuck... While some can protect against the cold, we see that, on the other hand, they don't like water at all.

Worse, the snow becomes extremely messy when it melts. Perforations can turn black, patinas can deteriorate, forming halos, and light-toned suede leathers can become almost irreparably stained.

Very good choice for spring or early summer, the desert boot models from the Clarks brand are not suitable for a harsh winter.

Let’s go into a little more detail, looking at the elements that make up the quality – or fragility – of winter shoes.

These elements that make good winter shoes

The choice of materials on the outside... but also on the inside!

No one would wear big wool sweaters in the summer. But in winter, what a pleasure to bring out your chunky knits. Same principle for shoes.

To begin this overview of materials, I would like to talk to you about wool, which we see more and more in the making of shoes. Waterproofed, they allow you to benefit from its thermoregulatory qualities without getting wet.

In terms of style, I find that it brings a real plus, between the nobility of the material and the rusticity of the texture.

It is also very easy to maintain.

This applies to the outside, but also to the inside of the shoe: some wool linings have strong insulation and keeping warm properties. Let's also remember that winter is the season for “fur” leathers.

I am obviously thinking of shearling sheep, with smooth or velvet skin on the outside and fur on the inside . I have a pair myself and it's a real joy... You'd almost hesitate to wear them even in the cold as they keep you warm.

Here is an example of sneakers lined in wool, which brings even more comfort and warmth to the wearer.

Smooth leathers are also very present in winter : without being as insulating as shearling, they still guarantee minimum comfort and very appreciable robustness. In terms of quality, as usual, pay close attention to having leather that is regular in appearance, supple and pleasant to the touch.

A leather with a silky appearance, beautiful reflections, a deep color and a very regular grain: this is excellent quality leather, which comes from Carmina .

As for shearlings, I would tend to advise you to avoid synthetic: it is certainly cheaper but, having worn it, it can quickly become unpleasant when you are indoors. The fact that synthetic is made from plastic means that it is not breathable.

I sometimes had the feeling of putting my feet in a pressure cooker, going from a very cold exterior to a heated interior.

Combo of death: cardboard-looking leather, haphazard stitching and, above all, rough-looking synthetic fur.

Now let's see what the different arrangements are.

Assembly, function of the insulation of a shoe

I will distinguish two main types of assembly: sewn and glued.

Sewn shoes

The unmistakable Norwegian sewn

More complex to make, but undeniably more noble and above all more robust, sewn assemblies are often our preference. Especially in winter, robustness is more than welcome.

It will even be an opportunity to test designs that can only be worn in this season, such as Norwegian stitching – its name already being a sign… even if it was invented in Italy.

It has two levels of stitching visible on the outside of the sole. It is therefore very massive to the eye. It is also characterized by the presence of a midsole in addition to the welt. Shoes made using this method are therefore completely waterproof , and the solidity of the assembly is remarkable.

Perfect for a mountain trek or snowy asphalt.

Bonne Gueule x Heschung collaboration , example of Norwegian stitching.

The Goodyear alternative

The Goodyear is also interesting, thanks to the welt which obstructs the gaps that can allow water to pass through.

A beautiful model in Goodyear from Loding .

The Blake, less appropriate in winter...

We can clearly see the finesse of the blake assembly and the line it gives to the shoe. However, in winter, it's not the best!

Finally, we have the Blake, favored by lovers of fine and elegant shoes, made without welt.

It has some disadvantages for a winter shoe : its thinness and the absence of a welt, which expose it more than the others to rain, snow and cold.

Without a rubber pad under the sole, it becomes complicated to go out with Blake in wet weather. And with skates, the slightest puddle thicker than the thin sole will soak the leather and the inside of the shoes. To the wise.

Installing skates - ideally accompanied by recessed irons - quickly becomes essential to avoid excessively slippery soles, protect against humidity and preserve the sole.

My advice :

• favor Norwegian stitching for backpackers or lovers of massive shoes ,

• Goodyear for dressier shoes that are less exposed to humidity

• possibly, Blake to go out in very dry weather .

“Glued” shoes

There are very good quality glued assemblies, but the manufacturing is often less robust than sewn assemblies.

The use of plastic/rubber materials is interesting for their insulating power against water. On the other hand, the assembly risks being weakened by the slightest drop that enters it.

Your glued sneakers (especially canvas) may, in winter, not withstand the rain and snow on a daily basis.

If you have a good pair of glued sneakers, for the first few years you won't encounter any problems. But with the slightest small flaw or crease, you risk having problems with infiltration.

In terms of thermal insulation, the thickness of certain soles can be interesting, even if these materials do not keep you warm.

Now let's move on to daily maintenance...

Maintaining your shoes in winter

It is important to maintain your shoes regularly, especially in winter. About twice a month for a pair worn regularly.

What should we do if we walk in a puddle or in slush and our shoes get dirty?

For smooth and oily leathers

We let it dry first before pampering our shoes.

Pay particular attention to cleaning with milk : it is extremely important to remove any remaining dirt and salt. .

Be sure to let it dry and cream, even if it means taking a break to ensure that the leather reacts well and regains color.

Here too, you can wax if you wish.

Leather's worst enemy: salt water.

Caring for your suede shoes

Instead of simply brushing and de-shining the leather with a brass brush, I advise you to use a suede eraser in case of stains, then a suede leather cleaner such as Omnidaim from the Saphir brand.

Now let's imagine that you accidentally stepped in a deep puddle or that an ace driver soaked your shoes.

When you get home, lay them on their side , always away from a large heat source.

It will normally take several hours to drain all the moisture. It is also possible to stuff them with newspaper to speed up the process. Once completely dry, the shoes will need to undergo a little maintenance according to the rules, remembering to insist, here too, on cleaning and feeding.

Nourishing shoe polish from the Saphir brand to apply regularly for good care of your shoes.

When the leather cracks...

Here, it is likely that the origin of the problem is not entirely due to unfavorable climatic conditions.

You will need to insist on nourishing the leather, even if it means repeating the operation two or three times over several days without wearing the shoes in the meantime, to allow the cream to infiltrate all the layers of the leather...

The final word...

It's time to bring out your most sturdy and bulky shoes. We prefer high-top models — boots or sneakers — because they better protect the ankles from the cold.

Of course, it is not forbidden to keep your usual shoes. Be careful, however, with materials that are too thin or too fragile: winter is the ideal season to enjoy warm materials, such as tweed or shearling.

Whatever the material chosen, good maintenance will be essential to preserve your favorite shoes: it is an essential step on which you should not skimp.

And even in the event of an accident, there is (almost) always a way to recover!