“The beginning is the half of everything,” Pythagoras said a long time ago.
If the art of dressing well is not - and never will be - a science as exact as mathematics, it nevertheless goes without saying that it includes a certain number of rules that we could, for some, qualify as immutable.
What is a doctoral thesis worth if the subject is not well defined at the beginning? What will remain of a palace whose foundations were neglected before construction? What would we remember about a talented sprinter if he missed his start?
The "catwalk effect" works largely because the clothes are perfectly tailored to the models' sizes. And that changes everything !
It seems that Pythagoras was, once again, absolutely right. This is why after a few years of existence, it seemed useful to us to return to the foundation of masculine style, the ultimate pillar of elegance, the golden rule of the well-dressed man... The right size for all the pieces that make up your wardrobe.
Well-tailored clothes in your size will highlight your figure.
Coat, shirt, suit, jeans, etc., we have gathered in this article all the advice for choosing clothes that are perfectly suited to your size. This article is a good complement to the guides for dressing according to your body type, whether you are strong , tall and thin , short or muscular !
The t-shirt should be fitted without being tight
The essential basic, the everyday ally, the companion for the beautiful seasons. Just that ! A priori simple, the t-shirt should not be chosen too lightly. Who says simple says well cut and well worn!
The sleeve seam should fall over the shoulder break. If it's done right, the rest will follow:
- The pectorals will be very lightly molded, and their contours suggested.
- The stomach will have a little more fullness, without flapping, and the fabric will sit naturally on the hips.
In terms of length, the sleeves stop halfway to the biceps, going down to the elbow is out of the question! The t-shirt will stop just below the belt , not lower.
Good jeans should hold you tight when buying
Jeans are an essential piece of men's wardrobe. In addition to quality criteria , it will therefore be essential to choose the right size, to make it a piece that will highlight you in all circumstances.
And even at the beach. It's crazy, isn't it?
We might as well say it right away: trying on jeans is not meant to be enjoyable. Indeed, the denim will have to relax, which must be taken into account at the time of purchase.
At the waist level, the jeans must therefore - and I insist on this point - tighten you. The canvas must be literally placed on the thighs and buttocks. You should be able to close the button, but it should not be easy.
The thigh is well fitted, almost without a single crease, and the calf gains a little amplitude to make walking easier.
At the leg level, the feeling will depend on both the cut of the jeans and the fabric chosen, particularly its weight. On semi-fitted cuts, the ones we prefer, the canvas will be relatively close to the leg and, above all, will show almost no creases. They will come with ports.
Finally, in terms of length, a very slight break is enough. No more, unless you want to backhand. It's up to you !
What is the right size for a shirt?
Choosing a good shirt in your size is no easy task. As a reminder, we advise you to first look at the pass. On this point, we advise you to always be able to place 2 fingers between the closed collar and your neck.
Even closed, there should be a small space between the collar and the shirt.
The shoulders are also decisive in the elegance of a shirt; they must follow the shape of the body, giving it a beautiful structure.
So at the armhole
To avoid as much as possible: excess material in the armpits, small chest and back. A shirt pressed against the skin is rarely elegant, the "bellows" effect is not any better.
We have always recommended opting for fitted shirt cuts , whatever your body type.
What is the difference between a casual shirt and a dress shirt? The first is in terms of length: just below the belt for the first, longer for a formal shirt that you will tuck into the pants.
The casual shirt barely covers the belt!
Casual shirts can also be straight cut, or worn open with a t-shirt underneath. In this case, if it is preferable to keep the armhole well positioned on the top of the shoulders, the bust can be fuller (without falling into the parachute effect).
A suit of the right size outlines the silhouette
The costume is perhaps the scariest! And yet, you will see that there is nothing complicated, especially since a suit that suits you will magnify your figure.
The jacket must be impeccable in terms of drape
The jacket is the most characteristic element of the costume. In terms of length, we can consider that the jacket should be equal to the pants (once dressed).
But in fact, you can play with the length of the jacket to balance your silhouette according to your body type. For example, if you are short, it will be good to choose a jacket that is a little shorter. Conversely, if you are tall, take a slightly longer jacket.
Finally, the jacket should never be shorter than mid-buttocks.
As for the build, a jacket in your size will sit over the entire surface of the shoulder WITHOUT EVER GOING OVER IT. That is to say that the padding, which is used for padding, must always rest on the shoulder without ever being "in the void".
Here the shoulder falls perfectly.
The sleeves should allow a minimum of movement, without being baggy (again, no need to stretch your arms in the air or move in all directions).
At the relaxed arm length, the sleeve should stop just at the level of the ulna , the wrist bone which forms a small ball.
This way the shirt will be visible, which looks particularly stylish.
In terms of bending , remember to be able to close the buttons, of course, and to be able to slide two fingers between the jacket and your torso. No need for more. The jacket should hug your sides without pressing them and light tension folds form in a star shape at the first button.
A blazer in your size has the advantage of highlighting your build.
The pants must follow the leg line
Dress pants or an urban model are not chosen in the same way as jeans.
For casual pants - chinos, cargo, etc. - with relatively generous leg openings, you will be careful to avoid excess fabric at the buttocks , which must be lightly supported without being tight.
In addition, the cut should be fitted without being too molding, and there should not be excess material in the crotch. As for the length, allow for a small cuff.
And above all, don't forget that you can roll up the bottom of the pants on sunny days!
Suit pants will be more fitted than casual pants. Another difference to note: you won't be able to roll it up as easily as chinos.
Wool pants, especially those with pleats, tend to sit closer to the leg than others. Here too, the buttocks must be supported - slightly more than with chinos - but be careful not to pull on the seams!
The sharp crease on the pants may fade slightly, but if you have the feeling that the canvas is pressed against the leg, the size is not right. The seams, often made edge to edge on these pants, could be stressed too much and come apart... especially when seated!
The fold may smooth out at the thigh, but reappears after the knee.
Dress pants are generally worn at the natural waist , at the level of the navel. It is resting on your hips.
In terms of length, it must break on the shoe by making only one fold, no more. And don't forget: when you're sitting, it's normal for your pants to ride up! But that's - supposedly - no problem, since you'll be wearing nice knee-highs.
Otherwise, you can opt for the "floor fire" cut, that is to say above the ankles, even if it is much more difficult to control when worn.
To summarize the pants: slightly curved buttocks, canvas never flat on the leg but drawing a clear line, and fitted cut without being tight.
To avoid: pants that are too fitted
A knit should be worn a little loose
A well-tailored sweater , in a nice color and the right size, is as effective as any shirt when it comes to elegance. The relatively fine knits can highlight the torso when your sweater is close to the body.
The fine knit sweater suggests the pectorals.
The right size combines two elements:
- Your comfort,
- The length of the sleeves and bust.
First, the sleeves stop at the base of the hand. For the bust, you can go one or two centimeters below the belt, not much more. The creases that can form there are not elegant.
For the rest, everything will depend on the cut of the sweater: sometimes there are deliberately dropped shoulders, others in raglan, etc.
A textured or thick knit will tend to homogenize the silhouette more than a very fine knit.
When you have a stronger physique, it is not advisable to wear knits that are too fine, even less too tight: they will highlight all your flaws.
Slightly thicker knits, which also match all body types, are usually worn a little looser than fine turtleneck type sweaters , even if the lengths to be respected remain the same.
Thick knits, which are becoming more and more widespread, offer very nice alternatives to fine knits.
When it comes to the cardigan, the rules are pretty much the same. Whether the cardigan is in fine or coarse knit, be careful not to buy it too tight to guarantee comfortable wearing and the "safety" of the knit , a more fragile material than canvas and fabrics.
A cardigan bought too big is really not elegant: avoid big folds and excess material as much as possible, without going overboard 😉
Here again, the cardigan will be more elegant if the armhole rests on the break of the shoulder, even if it can never be as clean as with a shirt.
Consider trying it open and especially closed , to see what it does. You must be comfortable and, ideally, the bend will highlight the shoulders. And we avoid excess material!
The right size of a coat or jacket depends on its use
The winter coat accompanies the silhouette
We have already devoted an article to how to choose a coat for winter .
The first indicator of size will be, as often, the shoulders: the armhole should in no case appear drooping or too big.
To summarize, you should not have the impression that you are “not filling” the coat at shoulder level. The sleeve seam must be positioned well on the top of the shoulder, at its natural break.
From the back, we can see the straight shoulders even better, perfectly adjusted to the shape of the person wearing the coat.
In terms of "width" of the sleeves , take into account the use you want to make of the coat : if it is likely to be worn over a jacket and a shirt for example, make sure that the width of the sleeve allows it . Better yet, try it on!
For a coat to wear simply over a shirt or a thin sweater, no need to go too big: just enough to allow you to move easily... No need to turn your arms in all directions or twist them reach forward 😉
The silhouette is just perfect!
When the coat sits securely on the shoulders and you feel comfortable, examine the silhouette. Does this seem to be going well? Do you appear elegant in the mirror? Bingo! This is the most important thing, and the rest is just common sense.
Being able to zip up your coat is of course essential, crucial, indispensable – whatever you want. It shouldn't feel tight when closed, nor should it feel like you could wear a huge oversized knit sweater underneath.
Jackets and jackets are worn shorter but also wider
The leather jacket, an easy and elegant classic! We tested this model from Zapa last year.
If we base ourselves on a "classic" design of the jacket, several elements must be taken into account in terms of size. Starting with the length, supposed not to exceed the buttocks, or even stop above. Whether it's a bomber, a teddy or a perfecto (enough to be large), this rule will be valid.
Bomber jackets are, by definition, designed with generous volumes: you need to know this, and not try to obtain a “fitted” cut.
The same goes for teddy jackets, which are slightly looser than biker-style jackets. The armholes will not necessarily be positioned on the shoulder break: this will be case by case, depending on the design of the garment.
A well-tailored perfecto jacket in the right size is very effective!
Perfectos and other leather biker style jackets - for example - tend to be very close to the body. Here, we will look for much clearer armholes, fitting the shapes of the silhouette well.
Be careful though to be comfortable at the time of purchase! Leather that is too tight will actually relax but in a heterogeneous way, in the areas of tension, which is not very attractive.
Lighter safari-type or cotton jackets have the particularity of having relatively straight cuts, and are made to be worn looser. They should always follow the break of your shoulders at the sleeves, and follow the natural line of your bust.
In terms of length, this type of jacket generally falls just below the buttocks.
So you can wear it very well over a suit.
Finally, denim jackets are a bit of a separate case. For what ? Because there are very different models and the size will depend on everyone's taste.
Some people like fitted denim jackets, worn like a biker-style jacket. Others prefer them looser with a retro cut similar to that of a teddy.
So remember that a coat, like a jacket, must generally fall well at the sleeves, that its size depends a lot on what you plan to use it for, and what you want to wear it with.
How to choose the right shoe size?
Yes, as much as poorly worn clothing is not pleasant to look at, shoes that are too big or too small also risk hurting your feet or back. The back is important.
First things first: knowing your shoe size . To do this, you can measure your feet with a pedimeter (the plastic foot that we all knew as children) or a sheet of paper. Be careful, remember to measure them with your socks.
Then convert the measurement in centimeters to shoe size using the following table:
You now know your size, but that's not enough! First of all, know that your size may vary depending on the brands but also the models of shoes.
Here are some points to take into account when buying shoes to make sure you find the right size:
- In length, there should be a small space at the end of the shoe allowing you to move your big toe. This is very important, especially since a shoe will never stretch;
- In width, you should feel a little pressure (without being painful), the shoe will then relax a few millimeters after the first few wears;
- Don't be afraid if the heel slips slightly at the beginning , it will slip less when the counter is fitted to your foot;
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Finally, be careful, don't trust the guarantors
to know if the shoe fits you, it is not an indicator.
Also note that finding shoes in your size is a matter of subjectivity. Some people will find shoes that are a bit larger more comfortable, while others will like to feel snug.
It's up to you to find the right shoe for you!
Knowing if a piece of clothing is the right size: the results
Remember one essential thing that applies to all pieces of the men's wardrobe: to know if a piece of clothing suits you, you will need experience. Try several sizes and look, compare, appreciate.
It is also not uncommon for us to be between two sizes. In this case, you will always have to try both and take into account these few points mentioned together.
However, be careful of overthinking. It's not a big deal if your pants have too many creases on your shoe, or if your shirt sleeve doesn't stick out enough from the jacket!
So here is this summary of the different advice that we have been able to give you throughout our articles. If you have any questions or comments, don't hesitate to let us know in the comments ;).
Cheers
