Today, I present to you our two new releases intended for formal outfits. Business essentials, with the quality you expect, and a formal look. So, after a peacock blue blazer intended for those looking for a little risk, we did things well, and with simplicity.
Because there are original pieces, with which we want to have fun and have fun, and then there are also these more serious pieces, with which we seek a form of elegance, an "understated" style . (We will explain this concept, very specific to English speakers, below)
It's not always easy to indulge in style at the office without being too daring. Wicket tie & pocket square, Archiduchesse socks, Barker derby, BonneGueule cardigan .
The case of an investment banking lawyer
For the record, my best friend works in the legal section of an investment bank. It turns out that I'm the one who "takes care" of his wardrobe. We always go shopping together. And often I try to encourage him to have a little more fun with his style, to try a little more daring, without going beyond "the rules". Except that...
This is not necessarily suitable. One day, he admitted to me, with disappointment, that he almost never wore his pair of black double-rings that we had bought together. For what ? This is what he told me:
"It's super beautiful Nicolò, but when I put this on, it's too out of line. My manager, my colleagues, they don't understand. You see, what I need are clothes that look professional , well dressed, with a touch of personal taste and originality, but just a touch, nothing extravagant.”
And he was absolutely right. It's a real need and not just for him... But for many of you.
If I'm telling you this, it's because, remembering this exchange we had, I was delighted at the idea of these outings which should meet his expectations... And those of all those among you who have the same needs!
Because right now, many of you are looking for the right suit and the right shirt to spend a stylish week at the office.
Friends, these two pieces are for you.
The textured micro-patterned suit
What we sought to do was a suit that was affordable in terms of price, with a very good quality fabric, not flashy but still interesting for its wearer. No more no less !
There you go, Renaud still looks very serious. Pro, square, elegant but not fancy.
“Understated” elegance, as they say in English
If I use this word in English, it is because no French word translates its spirit exactly. The closest word would be "sober", but that's not exactly it.
I would rather define it like this: a sobriety that “does more” while appearing to do less . In short, it's a subtle style.
And for me, this choice of fabric is exactly that: you have a micro-pattern, but it is almost tone-on-tone, so that even up close this suit does not stand out as "a patterned suit ".
Despite the seriousness of his outfit, he does not lose this touch of originality in the choice of the material of his costume.
And how would I qualify this micro-motif, then? I would say that it is more or less a micro-grid , with a mottled effect.
A “three-dimensional” secret
But beyond the pattern, there is a little "secret" in the appearance of this fabric, which further reinforces this idea of "understated" style. A detail that you might notice without putting words to it. This secret was revealed to me by Julien, our product manager, when I asked him about what was unique about this costume.
“Ah yes, don’t forget to talk about the three-dimensional side of this fabric!” he told me.
“On the side… what?”, I exclaimed.
“Three-dimensional!”
Well, at first glance, I thought Julien was going to talk to me about physics or science fiction.
But when you look at it, you understand what he meant. The subtlety of this texture is that it reveals itself much more when the fabric is viewed from the side .
When the light skims this fabric, the relief of some of its threads becomes much more apparent. Which is what makes this material so subtle: its originality is only revealed discreetly, through a sideways glance.
From the front, what stands out best is the pattern: a fabric with a blue background, very finely gridded by a lighter blue, all in a slightly irregular and mottled way. As said above, therefore.
But from the side, it is texture in the tactile sense: we almost “see” the three-dimensional feel of the material.
Another photo to illustrate the point: observe the part of the lapel of the jacket exposed to the light at an angle. Do you notice how the texture changes compared to the dark areas seen from the front?
What is the “hand” of a fabric?
Obviously, this fabric is 100% Australian merino wool . But a material is not limited to its composition, especially for wool which has a thousand ways of expressing itself depending on its fineness and the way in which it is worked.
And to really understand a fabric, you have to spend a little time on what the “hand” of a fabric is.
The hand of a fabric is simply everything that happens when you touch it . Is it soft or rough? Rigid or fluid? Airy, dense? A little stretchy, or totally stiff?
If I tell you all this, it’s because the hand of this fabric is really its greatest strong point in my opinion. But to make it clear to you in writing... It's quite a challenge.
I would first say that it is a “nervous” hand. This means that under the pressure of your fingers, the fabric returns to its shape easily.
In this close-up, there is a detail that I would like to draw your attention to: the iron folds. Do you see how the material is both capable of keeping a sharp front crease of pants, while not otherwise wrinkling? This is the sign of a beautiful hand.
As for the touch, I would describe it as "dry". It's difficult to explain, but a dry touch is the opposite of a fluffy touch: it does not particularly retain air, and is not "fluffy". The wool itself is soft
Note in passing that this fabric has a material weight of 240g/m, which makes it a so-called "4 seasons" fabric, wearable for most of the year.
On the importance of falling
Finally, beyond the appearance and the hand, the third key element of a fabric is its drape.
What is “the fallen”? Well, because only a photo can illustrate such a concept, I invite you to take a closer look at the pants below.
Here, although the fabric is not particularly heavy, it is elegantly "pulled" by its own weight. Look, for example, at how all surfaces that do not ripple when moved, are clean and free of creases. Well, that’s what we call “a nice fall.” (The boots are an old prototype of ours!)
The drape is therefore one of those things which make a costume elegant, but which few people manage to put into words. Often you think that the best suits are the "best cut", when in reality, an approximate cut, but in a fabric with a sumptuous drape, can look better than a fair cut in a fabric that hangs poorly!
In short, I only have one regret here: that you cannot touch this material at the very moment you read these words. In fact, I want to say to those who are curious: come to the store and see it! If only to touch the material and see it in action . Maybe you won't leave with it or won't need it... But you will have understood what a beautiful hand and a beautiful landing is. And that brings us satisfaction!
An Italian fabric Tallia Di Delfino
Okay, but where did we go to look for such a fabric then?
Origin: Biella, Italy
Creation: 1903
Organization: industrial group (Marzotto)
It's Tallia Di Delfino again, a supplier who has already proven himself well on our costumes in the past. It is a relatively confidential weaver located around Biella (cradle of textiles and more particularly of wool work), which belongs to the large Marzotto group, one of the leaders of the industry in Italy.
And when we know their creative approach, we see that it was from them that we had to look for the fabric for our costume: they are precisely renowned for making "classic" fabrics with a touch of subtle originality . And on a personal level, I realized that I have many times preferred their fabrics to those of the more widely distributed “big” weavers. Especially because they have, among other things, an excellent hand.
Like more and more Italian weavers, Tallia di Delfino is governed by demanding ecological standards. And they also apply to its energy consumption: here, the solar panels which supply the factory with electricity.
They were also the ones who produced the fabric for our first mottled suit , which was in the same spirit as this one.
They only work with Italian yarns , always on very beautiful fibers. All their fabrics are entirely made in their factory , from weaving to finishing.
A loom from Tallia di Delfino in action. Italian production, from A to Z!
And they are not left out on ecology since they are ISO 14001 certified , which is a high-level environmental certification.
Now that you know everything about this fabric, let's move on to manufacturing. Because without good manufacturing, there can be no beautiful costume.
Our high-end confection
As always with our suits, this suit is made in our workshop specializing in sleeved pieces, in Romania.
Let us quickly recall the central elements of this beautiful production.
Traditional semi-canvass construction
While the regulars among you already know it very well, the others are certainly wondering what it is. Well, on the front of the jacket, a suit can be "iron-on", "semi-canvassed", or fully canvassed.
The heat-sealed construction: it is based above all on an iron-on adhesive, which joins the two sides of the jacket together. It is the most economical solution in production, but also the one which gives the poorest drape and the shortest lifespan: blisters appear over time, there are more creases, and movements are more restricted. We also add a bib which gives it some hold, but it is different from the interlining.
The semi-canvassed: the bib as well as the lapels are also equipped with a tailored horsehair canvas. It gives a more beautiful drape and prevents the lapels and bib from blistering over time. It takes longer to make because the “traditional” REAL semi-canvass interfacing must also be sewn to the main material.
Fully canvased: the horsehair interlining extends over the entire front of the jacket, all the way to the bottom. There is no iron-on. It is the most high-end, the one which gives the best drape, but it is also much more expensive to produce.
Consequently, as our desire was to offer a very beautiful fabric at a competitive price, we have equipped this suit with the semi-canvassed construction, the best compromise in our opinion.
The hair (mainly horse hair, mixed with wool) of a covering.
Half-lined, double-light
Not to be confused with interlining. The lining is this fabric that we add to the inside of the jackets so that it slides, and to protect the main fabric.
Me doing (really) my best to show you the half-lined construction of this suit jacket.
Well here, it is "semi-lined", in order to have maximum lightness and freedom of movement. Only key areas are lined, while others are left bare. Paradoxically, this construction is more expensive to achieve , because it requires particularly careful tailoring in places which are normally "hidden" by the lining.
“barchetta” chest pocket
Has a slightly curved shape. It's prettier. And it's perfect for slipping a pouch in (if you want).
Horn buttons
For aesthetics! And they are “sewn on tail”, that is to say reinforced to be sure not to let you go.
And obviously, the other high-end manufacturing details that you are accustomed to from us. Don't panic, they will be recalled on the costume product page.
Now let's move on to the shirt. Because after all, what is a good business suit without the shirt that goes with it?
Chic then! Finally a (new) formal shirt
This is only the second time that we have made a real “100% formal” shirt, at BonneGueule.
And there's a reason for that: we often find that "normal" formal shirts lack character . You know our love for texture and relief. However, the basic formal shirt is often poplin or twill: two fabrics known to be particularly smooth. Ultimately, a little oxford from time to time (although it is considered more casual).
The other central element of a formal wardrobe alongside the suit: the shirt.
But at the same time, the texture on a shirt quickly becomes quite casual. And when it comes to patterns and prints, we quickly fall for the bold, or even the downright “edgy”. And that’s not the point here! So, how do you combine the two and have a formal, elegant, but not “flat” shirt ? Well we chose...
An Italian dobby, textured and elegant
Why does it work then? What makes this blue dobby elegant and formal?
Note the capture of light by matter!
Because on the one hand, the texture visually blends in at a certain distance, and appears as a solid pale blue. The shirt is therefore also endowed with this discretion necessary for the context.
On the other hand, this fabric is silky. This is important, because this light capture gives a slightly more precious character to the fabric, and allows it to have this formal, very dressy appearance.
And finally, the pattern created by this “dobby” weaving is geometric. Where the irregular side of a chambray or a speckled fabric suggests relaxation, the regularity of the weaving calls for formalism , creating like hundreds of small, perfectly interlocking diamonds .
A fabric from Albini, the most Italian of weavers
Origin: Albino, Italy
Creation: 1876
Organization: family business
We no longer need to introduce this high-end Italian spinning mill, from which a large part of our shirt fabrics come, including our very first white dobby shirt .
Let us simply remember that the Albini group, more than 200 years old, is one of the most eminent producers of high-end fabrics throughout the world. And its most unique asset is to control its production from A to Z, from the growth of the cotton to the final fabric.
For those who want to know more, we produced a report on this house, right here .
Easy to live
This shirt has another advantage compared to the poplin you usually wear to the office. You probably know this, but it's a fabric that wrinkles so much that people end up despairing and buying "non-iron" versions.
Renaud can finally lean back while drinking his coffee, without being afraid of coming out all wrinkled! (Note in passing: To be completely sincere with you, the collar lacks a little hold here. The prototype photographed did not yet have the correct iron-on in the collar. Don't panic, on the final version, it will be impeccable ')
Well, the advantage of this dobby is that it is not only easy to iron , but it creases very little. So no more shirt that looks like a rag after two hours of wear. All without chemical treatments or denaturing the fabric.
Note in passing that, always with comfort in mind, this formal shirt is longer , to make it easier to wear in pants. This is not a casual shirt designed to be worn casually, and it will save you from having to pull on it every time you get up!
The collar you need
For the collar, we chose an Italian collar , also called a “cutaway” collar.
Its slightly more flared opening has two advantages for the formal wardrobe. On the one hand, the tips fit particularly well into the lapels of a jacket, even when the collar is open.
Under a jacket, it sits well.
And worn with a tie, the extra space highlights the knot of it.
The Italian collar, or cutaway, is a good way to add one more detail to the outfit without overdoing it. The tie is only enhanced.
Mother-of-pearl buttons sewn “Zampa di Gallina”
It's the recurring little detail of our shirts, and it takes on its full meaning in my eyes, on a more formal shirt. “Zampa di Gallina” means “chicken’s foot” in Italian, in reference to this way of sewing the button with three “fingers” rather than crosswise. It's purely aesthetic, and it's still a discreet way of nodding to our sartorial influences.
The buttons are also “sewn on the tail”, to avoid unpleasant surprises.
Obviously the other details of our Portuguese manufacturing are still there, such as the reinforcement swallows at the bottom of the shirt and the well-tightened seams at six points per cm. The recipe does not change!
How to wear these new “business” pieces?
Obviously, you can wear them as we showed earlier: suit, shirt, dress shoes. The tie and pocket square are optional.
But here are some alternatives to modify the register a little. You can never have too many.
Not too serious costume
With a casually tied scarf, a wool cap, a light denim shirt, and minimalist sneakers.
Mismatched...not the same
Wearing the mismatched jacket or pants with the complementary piece of another suit is always an option. This allows you to add variety without changing register too much.
Here, the shirt works well worn with a round neck sweater, leaving the first button open.
Under the coat
Just to show you that obviously, the suit and the shirt can be accompanied, in winter, with an overcoat of your choice.
BonneGueule camel coat .
Always Cool Rolled
You certainly know the BonneGueule editors' love for the turtleneck. Yes, we know, we've been talking to you about it a lot lately. But admit that it's nice to be able to do this:
Wicket clutch, Barker Derby, BonneGueule pants and turtleneck .
