First of all, I would like to thank from the bottom of my heart the readers of BonneGueule for their interest in watchmaking topics. I have always been convinced that a bridge would gradually be built between the world of style, clothing and that of watches.
These worlds rubbed shoulders but never really mixed except for the (too) present advertisements in traditional media. This may seem surprising especially since some luxury groups own clothing brands and watch brands and some of these brands offer both products in their stores. .
The worlds of textiles and watchmaking are both sectors that require skills that may seem specific but which have two common traits: an industrial logic and a demand that is changing structurally due to the curiosity of an ever better informed clientele that is no longer satisfied with a few details repeated in the form of advertising leitmotifs but in truth often empty of content.
The need to know the details of a product has only grown , whether it is in the details of a particular fabric or a confection or whether it is in the details of the workings of a watch and its dressing and its finishes… the logic is the same: you are curious and you ask for content that allows you to discover more about these products and the worlds from which they come. Also, new formats will appear in order to continue our momentum always with the aim of opening up even more perspectives for the readership.
Also, this article is the first in a new series of tests. In line with the great selections made previously, we will stick to the format of a sincere test with a trial period of at least 10 days. and realistic photos when wearing .
The goal is not to surrealistically magnify a watch to make it an object embodying a kind of unrealistic perfection but to make a watch known for what it is: through its qualities and its defects, without ever resorting to photos from press kits or official press releases. The large selections have allowed us to lay the foundations in this area, it is time to offer more watch tests.
And one watch at a time.
For the first article of this type, we will look at a watch that has charm and is offered at a very affordable price, less than 800 euros, for industry standards: the Mido Multifort Patrimony.
A little useful reminder
We had made a synthetic presentation of the brand during the previous selection of diving watches , so I will allow myself to recall an important element. As in any sector, when brands want to penetrate a market, they will first seek to make a place for themselves among the competition and they will be faced with choices: they can choose to put the package on events, pay for advertising pages in the media or social networks via "influencers", join ambassadors, or try to surf on a media buzz linked to a particular originality, particularly in the field of design or a technical innovation, or by focusing on the quality of the product.
To take a comparison in the clothing sector, you can offer yourself a launch like The Kooples by betting on a big advertising bang or by betting on the twist and quality like Melinda Gloss which became Editions MR .
Obviously, not everything is black or white, a mixture of different factors is often the solution adopted by the vast majority of brands in varying proportions.
As for the Mido brand, it had been discreet for many years.
To return to the forefront in 2019, Mido is focusing on one model in particular: the Multifort Patrimony. I asked the brand to provide me with two versions of the Patrimony: one with a blue dial, the other with a gray dial.
1. Dials that pack a punch!
Upon receiving the models, the first impression is excellent and we already notice this sunburst blue dial with the best effect
In this price range, it is difficult to offer such a striking twist from the start and yet this model achieves it by focusing on several elements, particularly the dials.
Worn here with a blue sweater with the best effect, I simply take care to avoid excess tone on tone, which would be a shame and obviously a little too lazy.
The two chosen models have interesting and different dials: one is a sunray blue, the other a smoky gray.
The blue dial stands out for the depth of the blue used, and I personally notice under the magnifying glass the work done by Mido in this area. There is a small discreet effect: the blue of the dial is actually darker on the edges and very slightly lighter in the center, which gives it this impression of depth: an excellent choice because in the absence of daylight, the dial appears much darker while in the light, it reveals its nuances. The final result is of the best effect with as a bonus a tone-on-tone date window.
The smoky gray dial offers another twist, the use of gray is intelligent because as BonneGueule articles often point out, it is a shade that is very easy to match with a large number of clothing items.
Unlike the blue version, Mido has chosen to adopt a white window for the date on the grey dial, placed above 6 o'clock. , the white window is however in keeping with the white of the numbers and indexes.
The needles are syringe-type and they combine finesse and visibility due to the presence of superluminova. Finally, on the dial, we note the presence of the pulsometric scale which is a feature that we had not yet discussed in previous articles.
The heart rate monitor, aesthetic and historical
To take the pulse of patients, doctors of the 19th and even the 18th century could obviously use their watches to measure the heart rate. This is reflected by the presence on the dial of a watch a pulsometric scale which allows the patient's frequency to be known: it is generally graduated to 15 or 30 pulsations. After 15 or 30 pulsations, the chronograph is stopped and the pulsometric scale then indicates the number of the patient's heartbeats in one minute.
Although a chronograph watch is generally preferred to receive a pulsometric scale, this is not necessarily an exclusive condition. A three-hand watch can receive a pulsometric scale, it is then simply necessary to use the second hand and see on the scale after 15 or 30 pulsations the patient's heart rate but without the possibility of stopping the hand by pressing a pusher as on a chronograph.
The usefulness of the pulsometer on a watch is very relative today - as is the chronograph function - because doctors have other tools to measure heart rate. The fact remains that a pulsometer can fulfill its function when needed and now in watches it allows to give a historical touch and, it must be recognized also, especially aesthetic.
2. A worked case
Despite the presence of a domed sapphire crystal, the watch remains fine in itself with a good choice in terms of brushed polish: polished steel in particular on the bezel and brushed steel for the case.
The work done on the case is interesting in itself in this price segment and even more so the horns which are surprisingly very well finished always compared to what the competition offers in this range. The horns adopt a shape approaching the horns of ox , and what's more they are elegantly faceted: it must be admitted that the work is remarkable compared to the displayed price of the watch.
The work on the horns is noteworthy, fine, relatively short and above all very well worked.
3. The 80-hour movement
The great opportunity of Swatch Group brands like Mido is to be able to benefit from the industrial model with ETA which supplies the movements to other brands and thus allows to offer attractive prices due to the importance of the volumes produced. Thus, while the price of the watch remains very contained, the Mido Multifort Patrimony is equipped with a caliber which is in fact the ETA C07.621, the updated version of the 2824 with this time 80 hours of power reserve. .
Choice of an apparent background giving view on the Powermatic 80 which is in fact an evolution of the ETA 2824
4. Suede leather bracelets
As for the bracelets, I find them rather honorable, the leather is supple and soft to wear. I would nevertheless issue two slight reservations at this level: there is a fashion with bracelets with very marked stopping points. This gives an appearance that seems vintage in the media but you should know that vintage bracelets were in no case of this kind .
It is a style that is not unpleasant but that can limit the possibilities to marry the watch with formal looks: at that point I would advise you to change the strap for a more classic one and suitable for wearing a suit for example.
Another downside: the lug width of the Mido Multifort Patrimony is 19mm. While 19mm is certainly a good compromise and seems appropriate for the watch's 40mm diameter, 19mm straps are also much less common in physical or online stores. Also, choosing a custom strap will probably be the best choice to make to vary the looks of the watch.
Change of look, here worn over a gray shirt from Officine Générale , we can clearly see the ease with which we can play with the different shades available.
And besides, in terms of looks, many possibilities are offered: I can easily see these two watches in a formal universe by changing the straps for leather models without stitching or stopping points that are too visible or contrasting.
For my part, whether with a fine merino turtleneck or a more workwear-looking gray shirt, the watch seems to go easily with most looks.
Only the limited water resistance of the watch at 50 meters seems to me to be a hindrance to making it a summer watch for example: a water resistance displayed at 50 meters does not allow diving with this type of watch. .
We like
- An excellent design for a watch that is not a reissue or a reinterpretation of a vintage model.
- A fine, polished-brushed steel case with elegant horns.
- The very successful dials which tend either towards a deep blue or a smoky gray in the best taste.
- Honestly one of the best value for money style in the sector in this range, considering the finishes, the price is – for once in the sector – very well studied.
We like less
- A water resistance of only 50 meters, which is the case for almost all dress watches by the way
Technical characteristics
- Reference: M040.407.16.040.00
- 40mm diameter
- Thickness: 11.95mm
- Brushed polished steel case
- Non-screwed crown
- Domed sapphire crystal
- Mido Calibre 80 (ETA C07.621) self-winding mechanical movement
- 80 hours power reserve
- Waterproof 50 meters
- Price: 780 euros with the leather strap
- Available from many retailers, in Paris for example you can take a trip to Bucherer.
