Lip, Mido, MAT, Rado: our selection of diving watches for the summer

Two years have passed since the first article on summer watches . After the lockdown period, it is time to go and reclaim our freedom and enjoy a little of what promises to be a hot summer. And take out our watches to dive.

In the previous article on divers I presented you with a first selection of watches made to get through the holidays, at the beach while detailing the technical aspects of these watches which have spread to our wrists and not just during the summer.

Since Sean Connery in James Bond vs. Dr. No , these technical watches have conquered wrists and well beyond their original sphere to reach sedentary executives or professions who hardly require the use of technical watches for their work.

From technical watches intended for marine environments or at least very humid ones or even war zones due to their robust design, diving watches have partly tended to become office divers over time. This can also be seen in the evolution of the offer with, among other things, the use of brushed steel in the 60s for divers to polished steel cases today.

This is an important detail because polished steel, although obviously much shinier at first glance, will also make micro-scratches more visible to the naked eye. , it should also be remembered that this is an adaptation in relation to a large part of the demand coming in particular from external markets. Certain prices have since slipped, driven by strong growth in demand from these markets, particularly emerging economies.

This does not mean that divers have not evolved: it must be acknowledged that movements, steels and waterproofness have generally been revised upwards. While diameters reached peaks a few years ago with 44 or even 47mm, diameters for divers today are more around 41-42mm.

We are a notch above dress watches because we must not forget the utilitarian aspect of divers' watches which must meet certain requirements of visibility, water resistance, robustness and this imposes certain dimensions: in diameter but also in thickness.

For comparison, you don't ask a pair of Red Wings or Wolverines to slim your feet, but to be utilitarian boots, originally. The logic is the same for diving watches.

After two years, it was time to offer a new selection but with some changes compared to the first: the previous one aimed to provide a wide range of watches and also prices in order to give perspective.

There are watches for everyone, whether you are a forty-something professional, a senior executive, a student or a recent graduate entering the job market.

My goal is to adopt another view of watches: as an enthusiast, I want to build a bridge between two worlds: so-called traditional watchmaking and style.

My method has its requirements: I NEVER rely on press releases. The test protocol is based on loan models provided for a minimum period of 10 days with daily wear. It is not a simple fitting followed by a quick photograph to then receive likes by posting them on social networks.

My goal is to study the advantages and disadvantages of each model and provide realistic renderings. Also, the number of watches selected is limited: if necessary to four models

Having provided the widest possible panel in the first article, I would also like to strengthen this selection by including watches priced between 1000 and 2500 euros. Why? Because the sector has entered a process of polarization with the entry-level and luxury.

In the same way that in clothing there is fast fashion with its prices driven down and luxury which charges prices largely unrelated to reality, there are also offers which manage to break through by offering quality products without charging the same prices as luxury, which have become unaffordable for the vast majority.

This is why it seems important to me not to limit ourselves to extremes. For even more affordable prices, I add a watch that could have been selected previously because of its positioning and also its very interesting history. Let's start this selection without further delay with a French watchmaking legend.

Nautic-Ski - Lip

I have reminded you in the past of the tragic side of French watchmaking, but did you know that this watchmaking land has also been at the forefront of innovation? Lip's Nautic-Ski is the perfect example.

1. A French success and a technological advance

The late 1950s and 1960s were an exceptionally rich period in terms of research and innovation. This is how the Lip brand scored a major coup by developing in-house a caliber that today would pompously be called a manufacture caliber: the electric caliber R27 in 1958. .

The arrival of this electric caliber was greeted with amazement by our Swiss neighbors who were at that time behind in this precise field. Lip continued to develop electric watches in parallel with mechanical watches. and this resulted in the R148 movement and the presentation of the famous Lip Nautic-Ski at the 1967 Winter Olympics in Grenoble.

Offered to the general public a few months later, the Nautic-Ski was to make a big splash because it proved to be a solid, beautiful and precise watch. Equipped with a SuperCompressor type case The watch is suitable for the marine environment and obviously for diving.

Such a product would have deserved an even more exceptional destiny , the fall of the company in the 70s and very difficult years left the Lip Nautic-Ski in the hands of collectors of vintage watches.

Electric watches benefited from a technological advance. The mass arrival of quartz will nevertheless disrupt the entire watchmaking ecosystem because it is cheaper to produce and will break market prices.

Electric watches have remained a dazzling and pioneering interlude, but have become more difficult to maintain over time. Fortunately, the brand has been resurrected in recent years and is gradually returning to the forefront.

2. Developments in the current watch

Regarding the watch itself, the original 36mm has been updated in favor of a 38mm for the diameter which is judicious and also relatively uncommon in current divers which tend rather towards a standard of 41-42mm.

The watch is made of polished steel which gives it a little flashy side. In this regard, I could suggest the use of a brushed type steel or an alternation between a brushed steel on the case and the use of polished steel on the bezel for example.

The dial is a black sunburst and is perfectly visible day and night with the application of traditional SuperLuminova on the indexes, numerals and hands.

The watch mostly takes up the design of the historical model. The indexes are rectangular with numbers in the format 6h-9h-12h. Instead of the one at 3h, the date is well inserted aesthetically in the dial. I note however that the small size of the date makes it more difficult to see at first glance .

The inner bezel is marked at 10-20-30-40-50min . The whole thing however gives a successful neo-retro look overall. I note some differences but let's not forget that there were different versions at the time .

The current model is equipped with a Miyota 821A caliber which tends to become the standard for watches in this price range. Simpler than an ETA 2824 but just as robust, the movement is visible through the case back and benefits from a light decoration. In this area, I am not surprised.

However, compared to the original watch which had a solid case back, I think that the current model could have benefited from it as a reminder of the era with the engraving and the brand symbol, a little nod that would be interesting to offer.

In terms of bracelets, the brand offers, as an option, something new, different bracelets for the watch: leather, textile, tropical rubber, fine Milanese mesh : we see an evolution at this level.

If you want to go for a more retro style, the tropical rubber strap would be a good option. And for my part, I prefer to use a simple premium Nato .

The watch goes very well with a wide variety of Natos, so take a few and treat yourself by changing from time to time according to your moods! In a swimsuit, with a cotton/linen t-shirt or a henley for example, the watch is very pleasant to wear, so take advantage of it and vary the looks.

A small but important note : while the watches have changed, the prices have remained relatively reasonable compared to the time for the Lip Nautic-Ski (375 francs at the time). Something surprising enough to be noted.

We like

• A very affordable watch that will do the trick for your summer vacation or if you like to take a dip during the year.
• A neo-retro design that seems successful to me, normal: direct inheritance from the original model which was a useful and cool watch to wear and moreover already integrated into certain BonneGueule looks
• A 38mm diameter, which is - relatively - small for a current diving watch but which can be perfectly suitable for those looking for a diver's watch with a contained diameter. The impression when wearing it is nevertheless slightly different due to the opening of the dial
• Water resistance of 200m and the presence of the internal bezel which turns using a second crown: which is less common compared to the vast majority of brands offering diving watches

We like less

• Still the presence – discreet certainly – of the mention sapphire crystal at the top of the dial, which is not necessary
• Compared to this model with a diameter of 38mm which visually seems larger, I would have advised Lip to adopt a 20mm lug width because the current 18mm bracelet seems slightly small compared to the case.

Ocean Star Tribute - Mido

As you know, I focus so much on showcasing niche and independent brands that produce excellent products. than classics from more well-known brands. I also want to enrich the selections with brands that are overshadowed by their sister brands, sometimes from the same group but not benefiting from the same degree of exposure. This is the case of the Mido brand.

1. Mido brand update

Mido is a Swiss brand born in 1918. Its name has a Spanish consonance and it is normal: it is the present indicative of the verb medir (to measure). The brand had fully participated in the great momentum towards innovation in watchmaking and in particular through the Multifort model with several patents which will give from the 1930s waterproof, shock-resistant and antimagnetic models .

The brand is now part of the Swatch Group and therefore benefits from the integrated industrial model. Alongside Hamilton, Longines and especially Omega, which occupy the forefront, the Mido brand has remained discreet for years on the European market.

Nowadays, the brand is trying to make a bigger place for itself and that's when I advise paying attention because when a brand seeks to put itself back on the scene, there are two ways: advertising, ambassadors, sponsorship, etc. or improving the quality and design of its offer. .

Since I am not interested in the advertising element to judge the quality of a watch, I focus on observing the renewal of brands' offers. In the case of Mido, I see a lot of effort. The brand occupies an intermediate segment between the high-end and the entry-level. The prices seem very reasonable to me considering the finishes of many models:

• Integration of upgraded ETA calibers with 80 hours of power
• Nice work on the cases for some models in particular
• Aesthetic Paris that seems to me to be going in the right direction
• Beautiful finishing of the movements with decoration and use of blued screws for example

The model that interests us today is a reinterpretation of a vintage model and, if applicable, a model from the brand's 60s. It is aesthetically different from the other models in the brand's Ocean Star collection and, for my part, I find it especially more beautiful.

2. A convincing reinterpretation

The case and bezel are made of polished steel, as is the steel bracelet. The dial exudes retro inspiration with indexes and hands that clearly recall the past.

The needles are of the stick type, typical of what can be found in the 60s and 70s. . We obviously notice the orange second hand which stands out on the black dial, itself a reminder of the original watch.

In addition, two steel protrusions can be seen protecting the crown. .

This is a day date because the dial has two windows: one for the day and one for the date. Also, when you unscrew the crown to set the time, you will notice that there are three positions: one to manually wind the watch, one to set the day and finally the third position to set the time. I really like the shape of the domed sapphire crystal which imitates the look of the old plexiglass glasses of the time.

The bezel is made of steel, with an aluminum insert and it has a dot at 12 o'clock of SuperLuminova which is also present on the hands and indexes. I note however that the unidirectional bezel seems harder to turn compared to the other divers in the selection.

As for the movement, we are in the presence of the Caliber 80 which is in fact an ETA C07.621 which is itself derived from the 2836 which is itself derived from the 2824.

To simplify, it is a modernized and revalued 2824. to reach 80 hours of power reserve . The interest is obviously in this extension of the RdM to more than three days unlike the old 2824 calibers which only have less than two days of RdM.

On this subject, it all depends on your habits: if you have several watches and you change them often during the week, the 80 hours will be useful to you if you do not want to constantly reset your watch that has been left out for two days in a row... an advantage that is cancelled out if you wear the same watch every day.

The movement is not visible due to the solid background. Finally, the watch features a starfish engraved on the case back.

The watch comes with two bracelets: one in steel which is, a little, a reference to those we call " rice grains " with a few differences.

Unlike vintage bracelets, the links of current bracelets are solid .

I must say that the steel bracelet of this Mido seems to me to be of good quality and the rendering on the wrist seems very successful to me. The buckle also has an extension that allows the watch to be adjusted more precisely on the wrist. Excellent point.

The black rubber strap with orange stitching, on the other hand, seems to me to be a clear step back from the steel one. In this area, I would recommend preferring the latter.

Note that the horn spacing is 21mm which can limit the possibilities of finding other bracelets to your taste, the vast majority of the current offer in this area being 18-20-22mm for all categories of watches combined.

In terms of looks, I would recommend wearing this watch with a resolutely casual style, you can go all the way to a sporty chic style, the watch lending itself very well to a relaxed environment on the beach or during hot summer evenings.

We like

• A nice surprise at a very reasonable price just under 1000 euros
• A successful neo-retro design with respect given to the dial, indexes, hands and I also notice that the brand has judiciously avoided reproducing a false patina on these last two elements.
• A pleasant surprise in terms of the steel bracelet, well made and even superior to those of many other brands.
• Overall good finishes at all levels for this price range
• An 80-hour power reserve

We like less

• A unidirectional bezel that I find quite hard to turn
• A fully polished steel case and bezel: it's pretty but be careful of micro-scratches which will be more visible

Musketeer - MAT Watches

Nothing is more interesting than discovering sincere favorites with watches from brands that are sometimes unfairly overlooked and, where appropriate, with an independent, French brand.

In this selection of military watches I wanted to introduce you to a model from the MAT Watches brand. which enjoys genuine legitimacy in the military world and more particularly that of special units.

1. From the GSPR…

During my ^first visit shortly before the lockdown, in addition to the California model, I discovered another watch: the MAT Watches GSPR. This watch had been designed for the Security Group of the Presidency of the Republic . The GSPR was originally created by bringing together half military personnel and the other half elite police officers to ensure the protection of the President of the Republic. As the names changed, they ensured the protection of General de Gaulle until the last presidents .

In 2018, these elite bodyguards wanted to acquire a limited edition watch and it is MAT Watches who won their support.

The limited edition was produced in 150 copies and all were acquired. A detail that is important: of the 150 watches, about a hundred were purchased by members of the GSPR and only about fifty by private collectors: we are therefore in the presence not of a commemorative watch or a desk diver as is unfortunately often the case in the sector, but of a watch actually used by members on active service.

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2. … to the Musketeer

The Musketeer is the direct heir to the GSPR : technically it is the same watch with some aesthetic modifications. .

Technically, we are dealing with a watch tested and waterproof to 200M and equipped with a unidirectional bezel, so it fits perfectly into the selection.

The sapphire crystal is a domed double dome with anti-reflective coating to allow better visibility underwater. The crown is obviously screwed down to guarantee water resistance. .

The lugs are drilled as on all watches of the brand in order to facilitate the quick change to the benefit of the two other excellent bracelets provided.

The case is made of brushed steel, which is a good idea because brushed steel is more discreet and allows you to see fewer signs of age compared to polished steel, which is certainly flashy at first but on which you will see the inevitable micro-scratches more easily.

If the case is made of brushed steel, the notched bezel is made of polished steel which offers a light and nice contrast that brings a more elegant touch to the watch on which I will come back. The insert of the bezel is voluntarily made of aluminum in order to give a little retro aspect to the watch .

I notice that the numbering on the bezel is at 12 o'clock.

The needles are sword-shaped. , efficient and readable. The second hand is visible by the presence of red on its tip. The indexes are relatively large in order to once again allow perfect readability of the time.

Unlike the GSPR model, the date is placed at 6 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock and blends in with the shape of the other indexes in an aesthetic concern to present a dial that I find even more harmonious than the original model.

The hands and indexes are coated with Super Luminova BG W9 for: "Blue Glow White" in other words the indexes and hands appear white in broad daylight and take on a blue color in the dark, which is a change from the luminescent green present in the vast majority of watches.

The dial itself is a black sunburst which is relatively uncommon as it is more difficult to sunburst the black of a dial and I find it to be discreet and pleasing to the eye.

The design of the case is very successful, we partly recognize the design of the brand's watches but I appreciate these horns which appear short but which are in fact diving horns.

Regarding the movement, MAT Watches remains very attached to the ETA 2824. This caliber is a real tractor that combines excellent precision with unanimously recognized mechanical reliability.

The downside is that we have reached an absurd situation where this caliber is no longer available for brands that do not belong to the Swatch Group. .

The MAT Watches brand had wisely built up a stock in the past, allowing it to meet future requests. My personal opinion is obviously to favor the use of this movement as long as possible because acquiring a watch also means acquiring its maintenance. in the future and the ETA 2824 remains a reference in three ways: mechanical reliability , maintenance spaced out over time and above all , spare parts in abundance via a network of independent watchmakers. perfectly capable of servicing and adjusting these watches at a cost that is moderate by industry standards.

True to its reputation, the brand offers three high-quality straps that stand out clearly from the competition: vegetable-tanned leather that smells good from a French saddler, thick but very supple, which in my opinion will age well over time.

I would also recommend black to be able to match the watch in more formal occasions. The rubber strap comes from Italy and I deliberately chose it in bright red for the summer in order to contrast with outfits that are generally more sober in my case.

Finally, a two-branch canvas-type bracelet that seems to me to be of excellent quality and solid. I chose it in gray, always with the aim of being able to vary the combinations with different outfits.

3. A point on dimensions

The diameter of the watch is 42mm, which is a standard in divers for a large majority of brands. The diving horns, which appear short on the wrist, once again avoid having a watch that gives the impression of being too big.

On a standard wrist, the watch does not look disproportionate at all and there is another element that contributes to this: the lug width is actually 24mm, which may seem unusual at first glance. Generally on a 42mm watch, the 22mm bracelet predominates on the market but in no case is it a law written in stone.

In fact, aesthetically, some of the most beautiful watches were small in diameter and adopted a much larger bracelet in comparison. Which may seem disproportionate on paper, but in fact the watch is exceptionally successful and remains a very great reference in watchmaking.

As in all areas, we must obviously avoid false established rules, a 42mm watch does not require a 22mm strap and a 36mm watch does not require only 18mm. The important thing remains the final aspect: is the watch beautiful, yes or no? That is what is important.

In terms of looks, we have perhaps the most versatile watch in the entire selection : at the beach in a swimsuit or with Japanese cotton denim, a more workwear-oriented or more military-style look or even in a suit.

I'm not particularly a fan of wearing a diver's watch with a suit, it's obviously not a rule but some seem to me to be very poorly suited to a formal style, which is not the case with the MAT. So, don't deny yourself the pleasure and alternate the straps offered with the watch: a red rubber for the beach, a quality gray nylon to wear it with denim or a black leather when you take out the suit to fulfill your secret agent mission.

We like

• A technical watch because it was originally designed for and actually worn by members of the GSPR for active service: it is a robust watch capable of dealing with all the situations that a member of this special unit is likely to face.
• Paradoxically, a rather elegant watch to wear where too often technical watches do not necessarily enjoy an elegant design. In the case of the MAT it is the opposite, in casual wear, in sport chic or tie mode, this technical watch seems to me to be suitable for all situations
• The 200M water resistance, the presence of the unidirectional bezel, the domed double-domed sapphire and the robustness of the whole make it a watch suitable for taking a dip .
• A correctly priced watch: despite an enrichment of the brand's offering with the multiplication of models or very good quality bracelets for example or the arrival of leather cases, it has not changed its prices for several years, something extremely rare in the sector and in particular compared to the best-known Swiss brands which practice automatic price re-evaluations each year.

We like less

• Just one comment: an engraving on the bottom of the box, very sober, would have been interesting.

Captain Cook - Rado

Always with the aim of enriching the selections with brands that seem to me to deserve more attention, I was able to observe over time a watch that had caught my eye for a few years: the Captain Cook from the Rado brand.

1. Rado brand update

This Swiss brand was born during the third year of the First World War but it was not until 1957 that it developed collections under the name Rado.

The brand shows a particular interest in innovation in the materials used for watches, such as tungsten carbide, which has the property of being extremely hard to abrasion and is used as a basis for cutting tools in the steel industry. Rado was the first to use it to design a watch case: the Rado DiaStar Original. No more micro-scratches.

The brand subsequently became a specialist in ceramics and more particularly in technical ceramics. among others.

The brand seems interesting to me, especially for its ceramic watches, its collection of classic Gold Horse watches, its minimalist models like True Thinline and its divers through the Captain Cook models. The prices remain accessible and the watches benefit from ETA's upgraded calibers.

Named after British explorer and navigator James Cook, the watch is a reinterpretation of a Rado diver from the early 1960s.

The 42mm case and bezel are made of polished steel and with a shiny ceramic insert, which is a specialty of the brand. We can say that the watch seeks to attract attention!

The Captain Cook's bezel is characteristic of this model: concave in shape, it draws the eye towards the inside, the dial, which has a blue sunburst that catches the light beautifully on sunny days.

Still on the dial, we notice the shape of the hands including the hour hand which is of the Broad Arrow type. which gives it a good vintage look.

The brand has carefully avoided, as with the other watches in the selection, falsely patinated indexes in the style of old tritium, which seems to me to be a good choice.

The indexes are wide, more than those of the Mido but less than those of the MAT Watches for comparison. We obviously notice the Rado symbol below 12 o'clock and it brings as on the other models of the brand a small touch of red that for my part I appreciate on the dial.

As for the date, it is located at 3 o'clock on a white background and written in red, which makes it visible by contrasting with the blue sunray dial.

Technically, it has practically the same movement as the Mido Ocean Star Tribute. , the interest of this watch is that we go from 200m of declared water resistance to 300m which indicates an increase in Rado's offering which adds 100m of water resistance compared to previous versions of the 42mm diameter model.

The finishes are also superior with the work carried out in particular on the bezel or the dial.

In terms of bracelets, we are rather spoiled with a model in camel suede leather, another in large link steel, a third in rice grain type steel and finally a last one in nylon Nato type.

The camel suede leather seems fine to me but my preference for summer clearly goes to a Nato: the one provided is blue in keeping with the color of the dial but I advise you to try to get the green model of the brand for a slight twist. The grain of rice seems honest to me while the model with large links seems to me to be behind compared to the others.

I would recommend wearing this watch with a preppy or business casual look: chinos, seersucker pants, a polo shirt and a pair of high-end sneakers.

We like

• A watch with an original look that fulfills its primary functions as a diver
• A water resistance of 300m , the greatest of the selection
• The typical Captain Cook concave bezel with its high-quality ceramic insert, a brand specialty
• The 80-hour power reserve
• A highly appreciated design: since the return of the Captain Cook to the watch market, the watch has stood out and attracted attention.

We like less

• And suddenly a side a little too flashy because of the bezel and the polished steel case combined with the sunray dial and the ceramic bezel insert: the rendering is brilliant in the literal sense of the term
• Surprisingly, I find that the steel bracelet of the Mido Ocean Star Tribute is better than the steel ones of the Captain Cook, the Natos and the suede leather one seem more interesting to me

So which one?

Simple answer: it depends: budget, technical features and obviously the style you want.

The Lip Nautic-Ski will really appeal to those on a tighter budget. It stands out visually from other models with its two crowns and internal rotating bezel.

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a good value watch with good features for just under 1000 euros.

The MAT is flawless on a technical level, a direct heir to the watch of the elite unit of the French "secret services".

The Captain Cook brings its originality , enhanced with very recently updated waterproofing.

In each of their price segments, these watches represent excellent options in my opinion.

I wanted to gather other feelings, with fittings, from people with very different profiles: that of the editor-in-chief Christophe but also that of Jean, a former adventurer who travelled extensively by boat and lived from the northern tip of Norway to the deserts of Libya, passing through the equatorial forests of Gabon or South America and the Gulf countries.

Christophe appreciates the selection as a whole and he admits a leaning towards the Mido Ocean Star Tribute: he particularly appreciates the sobriety of the watch as well as its characteristics, all for a reasonable price.

Jean finds them all beautiful but shows a preference for the MAT Watches for the impression of robustness, solidity but also for the brushed steel case which seems to him more suited to a man who will need a watch that is less afraid of scratches and worn whether on the sands of a beach or the desert, from the humidity of the Amazon to the dry wind of the Arctic Circle.

And for my part, I wish you all a great sunny summer and lots of diving. With a watch.