Lip, Mido, MAT, Rado: our selection of diving watches for the summer

Two years have passed since the first article on summer watches . After the confinement period, it is time to set out to regain our freedom and take advantage of a summer period which promises to be hot. And take out our watches to dive.

In the previous article on divers I presented you with a first selection of watches made to get through the holidays, at the beach while detailing the technical aspects of these watches which have become widespread on our wrists and not only during the summer.

Since Sean Connery in James Bond vs. Dr. No , these technical watches have conquered wrists and well beyond their original sphere to reach sedentary executives or professions who hardly require the use of technical watches for their work.

From technical watches intended for marine or at least very humid environments or even war zones due to their robust design, diving watches have partly tended over time to become office divers. This can also be seen in the evolution of the offer with, among other things, the use of brushed steel in the 1960s for divers towards polished steel cases today.

A detail which is important because polished steel, although it is obviously much brighter at first glance, will also make micro-scratches more visible to the naked eye. , it must also be remembered that this is an adaptation in relation to a large part of the demand emanating in particular from external markets. Some prices have slipped since then, driven by the strong growth in demand from these markets and particularly from emerging economies.

This does not mean, however, that divers have not evolved: it must be admitted, movements, steels and water resistance have generally been revised upwards. While the diameters reached peaks a few years ago with 44 or even 47mm, the diameters for divers today tend to be around 41-42mm.

We are a step above dress watches because we must not forget the utilitarian aspect of divers which must meet certain requirements of visibility, waterproofness, robustness and this imposes certain dimensions: in diameter but also in thickness .

For comparison, a pair of Red Wings or Wolverines are not asked to refine your feet but to be utility boots, originally. The logic is the same for diving watches.

After two years, it was time to offer a new selection but with some modifications compared to the first: the previous one aimed to provide a wide range of watches and also prices in order to give perspective.

There are watches for everyone, whether you are a 40-year-old professional, a senior executive, a student or a young graduate entering the job market.

My goal is to adopt another view on watches: as an enthusiast, I want to establish a bridge between two worlds: so-called traditional watchmaking and style.

My method has its requirements: I NEVER rely on press releases. The testing protocol is based on loan templates provided for a minimum 10-day period with daily wear. It's not a simple fitting followed by a quick photograph to then receive likes by posting them on social networks.

My goal is to study the advantages and disadvantages of each model and provide realistic renderings. Also, the number of watches selected is limited: if applicable to four models

Having provided the widest possible panel in the first article, I also wish to strengthen the present selection by including watches priced between 1000 and 2500 euros. For what ? Because the sector has entered a process of polarization with entry-level and luxury.

In the same way that in clothing there is fast fashion with its prices driven down and luxury which charges prices largely uncorrelated with reality, there also exist offers which succeed in breaking through by offering quality products without you might as well charge the same prices as those for luxury, which have become unaffordable for a large majority.

This is why it seems important to me not to limit ourselves to the extremes. For even more affordable prices, I am adding a watch that could have been previously selected due to its positioning and also its very interesting history. Let’s start this selection without further ado with a French watchmaking legend.

Nautic-Ski - Lip

I have reminded you in the past of the tragic side of French watchmaking, but did you know that this watchmaking land was also at the forefront of innovation? The Lip Nautic-Ski is the perfect example.

1. A French success and technological advancement

The late 1950s and 1960s were an exceptionally rich period in terms of research and innovation. This is how the Lip brand scored a big blow by developing in-house a caliber that today we would pompously call manufacturing: the electric caliber R27 in 1958 .

The arrival of this electric caliber was greeted with amazement by our Swiss neighbors who were at that time behind in this specific area. Lip continued to develop electric watches alongside mechanical watches and this resulted in the R148 movement and the presentation of the famous Lip Nautic-Ski during the 1967 Grenoble Winter Olympics.

Offered to the general public a few months later, the Nautic-Ski was a big hit because it proved to be a solid, beautiful and precise watch. Equipped with a SuperCompressor type housing the watch is suitable for the marine environment and obviously for diving.

Such a product would have deserved an even more exceptional destiny , the fall of the company in the 70s and very difficult years left the Lip Nautic-Ski in the hands of collectors of vintage watches.

Electric watches benefited from a technological advance. The mass arrival of quartz will nevertheless disrupt the entire watchmaking ecosystem because it is cheaper to produce and will undercut market prices.

Electric watches have remained a dazzling and pioneering interlude, but more difficult to maintain over time. . Fortunately, the brand has been resurrected in recent years and is gradually returning to the forefront.

2. Developments in current watches

Concerning the watch itself, the original 36mm has been updated in favor of a 38mm for the diameter which is judicious and also relatively unusual in current divers which tend towards a standard of 41-42mm.

The watch is made of polished steel which gives it a little flashy side. In this regard, I could suggest the use of a brushed type steel or an alternation between a brushed steel on the middle and the use of polished steel on the bezel for example.

The dial is a black sunburst and is perfectly visible day and night with the application of the traditional SuperLuminova on the indexes, numerals and hands.

The watch mainly adopts the design of the historic model. The indexes are rectangular with numbers in the format 6h-9h-12h. Instead of the one at 3 o'clock, the date is aesthetically well inserted into the dial. I note, however, that the small size of the date makes it more difficult to see at first glance. .

The inner bezel is marked at 10-20-30-40-50min . The whole, however, gives a successful neo-retro appearance as a whole. I note certain differences but let's not forget that there were different versions at the time .

The current model is equipped with a Miyota 821A caliber which tends to become the standard for watches in this price range. Simpler than an ETA 2824 but just as robust, the movement is visible through the caseback and benefits from a light decoration. In this area, I am not surprised.

However, compared to the original watch which had a solid caseback, I think that the current model could have benefited from it as a reminder of the era with the engraving and the symbol of the brand, a little nod that it would be interesting to propose.

In terms of straps, the brand offers as an option, something new, different straps for the watch: leather, textile, tropical type rubber, fine Milanese mesh : we see an evolution at this level.

If you want to go for a more retro style, the rubber tropic bracelet would be a good option. And for my part, I prefer to use a simple premium type Nato .

The watch goes very well with a wide variety of Natos, so take a few and treat yourself by changing it from time to time according to your mood! In a swimsuit, with a cotton/linen t-shirt or a Henley for example, the watch is very comfortable to wear, so take advantage of it and vary the looks.

Small remark which is important : if the watches have changed, the prices have remained relatively reasonable compared to the time for the Lip Nautic-Ski (375 francs at the time). Something surprising enough to be noted.

WE love

• A very affordable watch that will do the job perfectly for your summer vacation or if you like to take a dip during the year
• A neo-retro design which seems successful to me, normal: direct heritage of the original model which was a useful and cool watch to wear and already integrated into certain BonneGueule looks
• A 38mm diameter, which is - relatively - small for a current diver's watch but which may be perfect for those looking for a diver with a contained diameter. The impression when worn is nevertheless slightly different due to the opening of the dial.
• 200m water resistance and presence of the internal bezel which rotates using a second crown: which is less common compared to the vast majority of brands offering diving watches

We like less

• Still the presence – admittedly discreet – of the mention sapphire crystal at the top of the dial, which is not necessary
• Compared to this model with a diameter of 38mm which seems visually larger, I would have recommended Lip's adoption of a 20mm lug because the current 18mm bracelet seems slightly small compared to the case

Ocean Star Tribute - Mido

As you know, I focus so much on introducing niche and independent brands that produce excellent products than classics from more well-known brands. I also want to enrich the selections with brands that are overshadowed by their counterparts, sometimes from the same group but not benefiting from the same degree of exposure. This is the case of the Mido brand.

1. Update on the Mido brand

Mido is a Swiss brand born in 1918. Its name has a Spanish sound and that is normal: it is the present indicative of the verb medir (to measure). The brand had fully participated in the great momentum towards innovation in watchmaking and in particular through the Multifort model with several patents which gave rise to waterproof, shock-resistant and anti-magnetic models in the 1930s. .

The brand is now part of the Swatch Group and therefore benefits from the integrated industrial model . Next to Hamilton, Longines and especially Omega which occupy the center stage, the Mido brand has remained discreet for years on the European market.

Nowadays, the brand is trying to make a bigger place for itself and that's when I advise you to pay attention to it because when a brand seeks to put itself back in the spotlight, there are two paths: advertising , ambassadors, sponsorship, etc… or improving the quality and design of its offer .

Since the advertising element does not interest me in judging the quality of a watch, I focus on observing the renewal of the brands' offers. In Mido's case, I see a lot of effort. The brand occupies an intermediate segment between high-end and entry-level. The prices seem very fair to me considering the finishes of many models:

• Integration of upgraded ETA calibers with 80 hours of operation
• Nice work on the cases for certain models in particular
• Aesthetic Paris which seems to me to be going in the right direction
• Beautiful finish of the movements with decoration and use of blued screws for example

The model that interests us today is a reinterpretation of a vintage model and possibly a model from the 60s of the brand. It is aesthetically different from the other models in the brand's Ocean Star collection and, for my part, I find it more beautiful.

2. A convincing reinterpretation

The case and bezel are made of polished steel, as is the steel bracelet. The dial exudes retro inspiration with indexes and hands that clearly recall the past.

The hands are stick type, typical of what can be found in the 60s and 70s . We obviously notice the orange second hand which stands out on the black dial, itself a reminder of the original watch.

We can also see two steel protrusions which protect the crown .

It is a day date because the dial has two windows: one for the day and another for the date. Also, when you unscrew the crown to set the time, you will notice that there are three positions: one to manually wind the watch, one to set the day and finally the third position to set the time. I really like the shape of the domed sapphire crystal which imitates the appearance of the old plexiglass glasses of the time.

The bezel is made of steel, with an aluminum insert and it has a SuperLuminova dot at 12 o'clock which is also present on the hands and indexes. I note, however, that the unidirectional bezel seems harder to turn compared to the other divers in the selection.

As for the movement, we are in the presence of the Caliber 80 which is in fact an ETA C07.621 which is itself derived from the 2836 which is itself derived from the 2824.

To simplify, it is a modernized and upgraded 2824 to reach 80 hours of power reserve . The interest is obviously in this extension of the RdM to more than three days unlike the old calibers 2824 which only have less than two days of RdM.

On this subject, it all depends on your habits: if you have several watches and you change them often during the week, the 80 hours will be useful to you if you do not want to constantly reset your tocante that has been neglected for two days of continued… advantage which is canceled if you wear the same watch every day.

We cannot see the movement due to the solid background. Finally, the watch features a starfish engraved on the case back.

The watch comes with two bracelets: one in steel which, somewhat, refers to those called “ grains of rice ” with a few differences.

Unlike vintage bracelets, the links of current bracelets are solid .

I must say that the steel bracelet of this Mido seems to me to be of good quality and it looks very good on my wrist. The buckle also has an extension which allows the watch to be adjusted more precisely on the wrist. Excellent point.

The black rubber strap with orange stitching, however, seems to me to be a clear departure from the steel one. I would advise in this area to prefer the latter.

Note that the lug width is 21mm which can limit the possibilities of finding other bracelets to your taste, the vast majority of the current offer in this area being the 18-20-22mm all categories of watches combined.

In terms of look, I would advise wearing this watch with a decidedly casual style, you can go all the way to a sporty chic style, the watch lends itself very well to a casual environment by the beach or during scorching summer evenings. .

WE love

• A good surprise at a very reasonable price just below 1000 euros
• A successful neo-retro design with respect given to the dial, indexes, hands and I also notice that the brand has wisely avoided reproducing a false patina on these last two elements
• A happy surprise in terms of the steel bracelet, well made and even superior to those of many other brands
• Overall good finishes at all levels for this price range
• A power reserve of 80 hours

We like less

• A unidirectional bezel that I find quite hard to turn
• A fully polished steel case and bezel: it's pretty but watch out for micro-scratches which will be more visible

Musketeer - MAT Watches

Nothing is more interesting than discovering sincere favorites with watches from brands that are sometimes unfairly overlooked and, if necessary, with an independent and French brand.

In this selection of military watches I wanted to introduce you to a model from the MAT Watches brand which benefits from authentic legitimacy in the world of the military and more particularly that of special units.

1. From GSPR…

During my ^first visit shortly before confinement, in addition to the California model, I discovered another watch: the MAT Watches GSPR. This watch was designed for the Security Group of the Presidency of the Republic . The GSPR was originally created by bringing together half the military and the other half elite police officers in order to ensure the protection of the President of the Republic. Through the changes of names, they ensured the protection of General de Gaulle until the last presidents .

In 2018, these elite bodyguards wanted to acquire a limited edition watch and it is MAT Watches which won their support.

The limited edition was produced in 150 copies and all were acquired. An important detail: of the 150 watches, around a hundred were purchased by members of the GSPR and only around fifty by private collectors: we are therefore not in the presence of a commemorative watch or a desk diver as is unfortunately often the case in the sector, but of a watch actually used by members on active duty.

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2. … à la Mousquetaire

The Musketeer is the direct heir of the GSPR : technically it is the same watch with some aesthetic modifications .

Technically, we are dealing with a watch tested and waterproof to 200M and equipped with a unidirectional bezel, so it fully fits into the selection.

The sapphire crystal is a double domed dome with anti-reflective application to allow better visibility underwater. The crown is obviously screwed down to guarantee watertightness .

The lugs are pierced as on all the brand's watches to facilitate quick changes to the two other excellent bracelets provided.

The case is made of brushed steel which is wise because brushed steel is more discreet and allows you to see less of the marks of time compared to polished steel which is certainly flashy at first but on which you will more easily see the inevitable micro-scratches .

If the case is in brushed steel, the notched bezel is in polished steel which offers a light and pretty contrast which brings a more elegant touch to the watch to which I will return. The bezel insert is deliberately made of aluminum in order to give a little retro appearance to the watch. .

I notice that the numbering of the bezel is at 12 o'clock.

The hands are sword type , efficient and readable. The seconds hand is visible by the presence of red on its tip. The indexes are relatively large in size to once again allow perfect readability of the time.

Unlike the GSPR model, the date is placed at 6 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock and blends in with the shape of the other indexes in an aesthetic effort to present a dial that I find even more harmonious than the original model.

The hands and indexes are coated with Super Luminova BG W9 for: “Blue Glow White” in other words the indexes and hands appear white in broad daylight and take on a blue color in the dark, which changes from the luminescent green which is present in the vast majority of watches.

The dial itself is black sunburst which is relatively uncommon because it is more difficult to sunburst the black of a dial and I find it discreet and pleasing to the eye.

The design of the case is very successful, we partly recognize the design of the brand's watches but I appreciate these lugs which appear short but which are in fact plunging horns.

Concerning the movement, MAT Watches remains very attached to the ETA 2824. This caliber is a real tractor which combines excellent precision with unanimously recognized mechanical reliability.

The downside is that we have arrived in a grotesque situation where this caliber is no longer available for brands not belonging to the Swatch Group. .

The MAT Watches brand had wisely built up a stock in the past, allowing it to meet future requests. My personal opinion is obviously to favor the use of this movement as long as possible because acquiring a watch also means acquiring its maintenance. in the future and the ETA 2824 remains a reference in three respects: mechanical reliability , maintenance spaced over time and above all spare parts in abundance via a network of independent watchmakers perfectly capable of servicing and adjusting these watches at a moderate cost compared to industry standards.

True to its reputation, the brand offers three high-quality bracelets that clearly stand out from the competition: vegetable-tanned leather that smells good from a French saddler, thick but very supple, which in my opinion will age well over time.

I would also recommend black to be able to match the watch on more formal occasions. The rubber strap comes from Italy and I deliberately chose it in a bright red color for the summer in order to contrast with generally more sober outfits in my case.

Finally, a canvas type bracelet in two branches which seems to me to be of excellent quality and solid. I chose it in gray, always with the aim of being able to vary the combinations with different outfits.

3. A point about dimensions

The diameter of the watch is 42mm, which is a standard in divers for a large majority of brands. The plunging lugs, which appear short on the wrist, once again help avoid having a watch that gives the impression of being too large.

On a standard wrist, the watch does not appear disproportionate at all and there is another element that contributes to this: the lug size is actually 24mm, which may seem unusual at first glance. Generally on a 42mm watch, the 22mm bracelet predominates on the market but in no case is this a law written in stone.

In fact, aesthetically, some of the most beautiful watches were small in diameter and adopted a much larger bracelet size in comparison. What may seem disproportionate on paper, but in fact the watch is exceptionally successful and remains a very great reference in watchmaking.

As in all areas, we must obviously avoid established false rules, a 42mm watch does not require a 22mm bracelet and a 36mm watch does not only require 18mm. The important thing remains the final aspect: is the watch beautiful, yes or no? This is what matters.

In terms of looks, we have perhaps the most versatile watch of the entire selection : at the beach in a swimsuit or with Japanese cotton denim, a more workwear or more military look or even in a suit.

I'm not particularly a fan of wearing a diver with a suit, it's obviously not a rule but some seem very unsuitable for a formal style, which is not the case with the MAT. So, don't shy away from your pleasure and alternate the straps offered with the watch: a red rubber for the beach, a quality gray nylon to wear with denim or black leather when you take out the suit to fulfill your mission as an agent secret.

WE love

• A technical watch because it was originally designed for and truly worn by members of the GSPR for active service: it is a robust watch capable of facing all the situations that a member of this special unit is likely to face.
• Paradoxically a rather elegant watch to wear where too often technical watches do not necessarily benefit from an elegant design. In the case of the MAT it's the opposite, in casual wear, in sport chic or tie mode, this technical watch seems suitable for all situations.
• The water resistance to 200M, the presence of the unidirectional bezel, the double domed sapphire and the robustness of the whole make it a watch suitable for taking a dip .
• A correctly priced watch: despite an enrichment of the brand's offering with the multiplication of very good quality models or bracelets for example or the arrival of leather boxes, it has not changed its prices for several years, something extremely rare in the sector and particularly compared to the best-known Swiss brands which practice automatic price reassessments every year

We like less

• Just one remark: an engraving on the bottom of the box, very sober, would have been interesting

Captain Cook - Rado

Always with the aim of enriching the selections with brands that seem to me to deserve more attention, I was able to observe over time a watch that had caught my eye for several years: the Captain Cook from the Rado brand.

1. Update on the Rado brand

This Swiss brand was born during the third year of the First World War but it was not until 1957 that it developed collections under the name Rado.

The brand shows a particular interest in innovation in the materials used for watches such as tungsten carbide which has the property of being extremely hard to abrasion and which serves as the basis for cutting tools in the steel industry. Rado was the first to use it to design a watch case: the Rado DiaStar Original. Exit micro-scratches.

The brand subsequently became a specialist in ceramics and more particularly in technical ceramics. among others.

The brand seems interesting to me in particular for its ceramic watches, its collection of classic Gold Horse watches, its minimalist models such as True Thinline and its divers through the Captain Cook models. Prices remain accessible and the watches benefit from ETA’s upgraded calibers.

Named after British explorer and navigator James Cook, the watch is a reinterpretation of a Rado diver from the early 1960s.

The 42mm case and bezel are made of polished steel and with a shiny ceramic insert, which is therefore a specialty of the brand. We can say that the watch seeks to attract attention!

The Captain Cook's bezel is characteristic of this model: concave in shape, it draws the eye inwards to the dial, which has a blue sunburst which catches the light nicely on sunny days.

Still on the dial, we notice the shape of the hands including the hour hand which is Broad Arrow type which gives it a vintage look of good quality.

As with the other watches in the selection, the brand has carefully avoided falsely patinated old tritium-style indexes, which seems to me to be a good choice.

The indexes are wide, larger than those of the Mido but smaller than those of the MAT Watches for comparison. We obviously notice the Rado symbol below the 12 o'clock position and, as on the brand's other models, it brings a small hint of red that I personally appreciate on the dial.

As for the date, it is located at 3 o'clock on a white background and written in red, which makes it visible in contrast with the blue sunray dial.

On a technical level, it has practically the same movement as the Mido Ocean Star Tribute , the interest of this watch is that we go from 200m of declared water resistance to 300m which indicates a progression of the Rado offer which adds 100m of water resistance compared to the previous versions of the 42mm diameter model.

The finishes are also superior with the work carried out particularly on the bezel or the dial.

In terms of bracelets, we are rather pampered with a camel suede leather model, another in large steel links, a third in grain of rice type steel and finally a last Nato type in nylon.

The camel suede leather seems good to me but my preference for summer is clearly towards a Nato: the one supplied is blue in accordance with the color of the dial but I advise you to try to get the green model of the brand for a slight twist. The grain of rice seems honest to me while the model with large links seems to me to be behind the others.

I would recommend wearing this watch with a preppy or business casual type look: chinos, seersucker pants, a polo shirt and a pair of high-end espadrilles.

WE love

• A watch with an original look and which fulfills its primary functions as a diver
• Water resistance displayed at 300m , the highest in the selection
• The typical Captain Cook concave bezel with its excellent quality ceramic insert, a specialty of the brand
• The 80-hour power reserve
• A very popular design: since the return of the Captain Cook to the watch market, the watch has stood out and attracted attention

We like less

• And suddenly a side a little too flashy due to the bezel and the case in polished steel combined with the sunray dial and the insert of the ceramic bezel: the result is brilliant in the literal sense of the word
• Surprisingly, I find that the steel bracelet of the Mido Ocean Star Tribute is better than the steel bracelet of the Captain Cook, the Natos and the suede leather one seeming more interesting to me

So which one?

Simple answer: it depends: on the budget, the technical characteristics and obviously the style you want.

Lip's Nautic-Ski will really appeal to smaller budgets. It is visually distinguished by the presence of two crowns and the internal rotating bezel compared to other models.

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a watch that offers good value for money with good features for just under 1000 euros.

The MAT is flawless on a technical level, direct heir to the watch of the elite unit of the French “secret services”.

The Captain Cook brings its originality , enhanced with very recently updated waterproofing.

In each of their price segments, these watches represent excellent options in my opinion.

I wanted to collect other feelings, with fittings, from people with very different profiles: that of the editor-in-chief Christophe but also that of Jean, a former backpacker who traveled extensively by boat and who lived from the northern tip of Norway to the deserts of Libya via the equatorial forests of Gabon or South America and the Gulf countries.

Christophe appreciates the selection as a whole and admits to a leaning towards the Mido Ocean Star Tribute: he particularly appreciates the sobriety of the watch as well as its characteristics, all for a reasonable price.

Jean finds them all beautiful but shows a preference for the MAT Watches for the impression of robustness, solidity but also for the brushed steel case which seems to him more suitable for a man who will need a watch who will be less afraid of scratches and carried whether on the sands of a beach or the desert, from the humidity of the Amazon to the dry wind of the Arctic Circle.

And for my part, I wish you all a great sunny summer and lots of diving. With a watch.