Our selection of diving watches for summer

Following the articles that detailed the ins and outs of the watchmaking sector (available here: Act 1 and Act 2 ), I thought it would be useful to present a new series of articles focusing this time on watches that represent a good compromise, in the context of a particular context, such as vacations or formal occasions.

So I took up the challenge of choosing what represents for me the best compromise, taking into account qualities, price and also style through a selection of eight new mechanical watches.

I must confess that I have always been disappointed by the selection of watches offered in traditional media where the advertising model predominates.

Reading the different selections, all the watches are invariably "iconic", "timeless", respect the "DNA of the brand" or the "traditions of excellence" and other copy-pastes continually reproduced on all brands and on all models.

Rather than remaining dissatisfied, I would like to offer you my own selection of watches: those that I like (after having tried them personally or which are, at the very least, owned by colleagues and friends of Forumamontres and after having spoken with them to get their feedback in addition to my own impression when wearing them) and that I would recommend to my loved ones.

With July and August upon us, for this first edition I have selected watches that will be suitable for one (and even several) summers. Hoping for you that it will be made of sun, cocktails, meetings, beach, adventures, swimming and even diving.

If divers are the summer watches par excellence, it is important to provide a slightly more precise definition before moving on to the selection itself.

“Ursula, drop the shells, I need a new watch!”

What is a diver?

Although navies around the world had already been equipped with marine watches for several centuries – Ulysse Nardin having been a renowned watchmaker in the field of marine chronometers since the 19th century – it was not until 1927 that the first waterproof wristwatch appeared thanks to Rolex (with the famous Oyster case).

There is an ISO (International Organization for Standardization) standard, ISO 6425, which gives a precise definition: a diver's watch or diving watch is a "wristwatch that must withstand immersion in water to a depth of at least 100 m and has a time control system."

Tests carried out in real conditions and even against many Spectre agents!

To be completely honest, I find the standard in question quite restrictive… It mainly serves as a guarantee of seriousness for certain brands. The mention “Diver”, that is to say diving watch, is not present on Rolex watches but that does not prevent them from being real divers and much more qualitative than what the ISO standard dictates. Quite simply because Rolex, like Omega, can free itself from it due to higher standards.

In short, diving watches need to be tough and waterproof, and that makes them perfect companions for our vacations and for saving the world.

ISO standards are important in the context of standardization of industrial processes or quality control and obviously for the needs of professional diving but – in the context of this selection – we will not go so far as to make them the absolute standard, the essential prerequisite for this selection is water resistance to a minimum of 100 meters .

In my eyes, these watches should above all allow you to enjoy your vacation… with a style that a more or less secret agent would not disdain.

My selection criteria

I therefore offer you a selection of eight watches , which will take into account different budgets.

Prices are increasing but the important thing is the comments and the appreciations: some divers are elegant, others are versatile and still others have advanced technical characteristics. But all are mechanical watches.

It is not a question of opposing quartz watches to mechanical watches, as I said in a previous article, this competition is no longer relevant since mechanical watches have largely regained the advantage. I also want to show you through this selection that a reliable and waterproof mechanical watch is available for all budgets.

Instead of only offering you the official photos, which we nevertheless keep as a criterion for comparison (you will be able to appreciate the difference elsewhere), I will systematically provide in this article several of my own photographs of watches, including some of them worn so that you can have at least a realistic overview of these watches and not base this article on internet sources or on press kits.

Finally, rather than presenting you with models already seen and reviewed in forums like the Orient Mako , the Seiko SKX007J and Seiko Turtle or even the Seiko Sumo and MarineMaster for example, I will rather make you dive with other timepieces, without falling into the opposite excess with totally unknown models or in too limited edition.

Now, prepare your oxygen bottles and dive!

Lip Marinier

Reference 611370

Lip is an old brand that combined the excellence of French watches, innovation but also quality industrial production that made its products available and for all budgets.

The brand has since been taken over and, while there has been a lot of quartz, the mechanical watch has gradually reappeared. By fitting Miyota mechanical calibers (very simple but reliable), the brand continues its return to the forefront in its segment.

It should be noted that for a few years now, the assembly of watches has been done again in Besançon, hence the mention "Besançon, France" on the dials of the current collection. The development of the brand is going in the right direction and it was quite natural that I would be interested in some of its latest models, including the Marinier.

A beautiful watch with a strap that is certainly not the one provided by the brand but which fits it like a glove.

Rather than presenting you with a model with a black or blue dial (the most common in diving watches), I wanted to test a model with a green dial . Overall, the watch has all the features of a diver with a unidirectional bezel. , a screw-down crown, 200m water resistance and hands that are luminescent (useful when diving or at night) thanks to SuperLuminova.

The short lugs allow you to do without end-links and to adopt other bracelets without leaving too much space between the bracelet and the case, which is unfortunately the case on a Seiko Sumo

This is a watch that has many positive points and whose 39 mm diameter proves versatile for a large majority of wrists. The dial has two windows at 3 o'clock: one for the date and another for the day. We find this arrangement on some Seikos for example and, historically, we find it on other watches in a completely different range such as on Rolex (Day-Date released in 1956 and which still exists by the way).

For my part, strictly personal opinion, I would prefer a model displaying only the date. The presence of a window for the day is not shocking either and it turns out to be rather discreet compared to some Seiko models.

This new Lip model has a sapphire crystal instead of the mineral glass that was previously present, hence the indication "sapphire crystal" at 12 o'clock.

For my part, I decided to change the strap and I noticed when trying different types that the watch is better highlighted with a thick Milanese mesh - its rather short lugs allow not to leave too much space between the strap and the case - and also to accentuate its retro look from the late 60s and 70s. I also advise you to twist it with the Nato of your choice.

Great, right? I never hesitate to change the straps of my watches very regularly to give them a more original look. Considering the result, why deprive yourself?

I would recommend wearing this watch on "business casual" occasions, which are dear to our Anglo-Saxon neighbours, which is made up of canvas trousers such as chinos, Oxford-type shirts or polo shirts (I am part of the secret organisation of polo shirt wearers at BonneGueule). It is obviously suitable for a casual style. By twisting it further with an appropriate leather strap, it is possible to use it on "business informal" occasions, which are somewhere between the very formal style and business casual.

Technical characteristics

• 39mm diameter
• Polished steel case
• Screw-down crown
• Sapphire glass
• Miyota 820A self-winding mechanical movement
• 42 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 200m
• Price: 449 euros with the green dial

The most

• A nice move by Lip, which offers a watch that consolidates the brand's move upmarket while maintaining a very attractive price.
• Good technical characteristics: it is a 200m waterproof watch but with a different design compared to the current market
• A beautiful green dial that changes from the usual black and blue dials
• Contained diameter of 39mm which is suitable for the vast majority of wrists
• Very pleasant to twist on a Nato and especially a thick Milanese mesh
• Excellent introduction to divers and mechanical watches

The least

• Chrome metal bracelet which can fortunately be easily changed. I would recommend adopting another bracelet: in thick quality Milanese mesh if possible
• The mention "sapphire crystal" is dispensable as is the visible back (*the visible back is really only useful to show interesting manufacture movements)

Already available in other colors, very soon in green and with sapphire crystal on the entire Marinier collection on the brand's online site: Lip Marinier

Hamilton Khaki Scuba

Reference H82315931

The Hamilton Khaki Scuba is a relatively under-the-radar watch that is aesthetically pleasing for its price. Its compact 40mm diameter allows for great versatility for different wrists. The model comes in three versions: orange, black and blue. The one with the blue bezel caught my attention more than the other two, but that's strictly a matter of taste.

A very nice watch to wear and well made, here with a silicone strap from the brand.

This model is suitable for use in the context of leisure and to enjoy the pleasures of water. On the other hand, the model is not designed for professional diving, its waterproofness is similar to that of military-inspired models (100 meters being more than enough), which is also perfectly suited for the vast majority of vacationers.

The Hamilton is equipped with an ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve, a useful feature for those who change watches frequently or those who wish to leave their watch in and then put it back on a few days later without having to set it again.

I much prefer the blue version and it has nothing to do with the shirt worn that day.

I would prefer to wear this watch in a more casual context, especially with a silicone strap. The style of Hamilton's Khaki collection watches is not particularly suited to adopting them with a dressy style, although it is possible to break a few rules from time to time.

Technical characteristics :

• 40 mm diameter
• Brushed steel case
• Screw-down crown
• Sapphire glass
• H10 (ETA) self-winding mechanical movement
• 80 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 100 meters
• Price: 645 euros (version delivered with Nato) or 695 euros (version delivered with steel bracelet)

The most

• Overall aesthetically successful, bonus for the blue model
• Perfectly versatile diameter
• ETA caliber derived from the well-known 2824-2 movement
• Thanks for the full fund! The apparent fund predominates too much in the entry-level sector of mechanical watches without representing much interest.
• 80 hours of power reserve (a real plus for those who change watches regularly)

The least

• Waterproof 100m, sufficient for swimming and diving reasonably but not suitable for depths or professional diving: a little limited for a diving watch even if it is perfectly acceptable for the vast majority of amateur swimmers
• 24-hour indication which is more aesthetic than useful on this model
• Date between 4 and 5 o'clock which will not be to everyone's taste even if it is a more frequent characteristic in the past

Available now on the Hamilton online site: Louis Pion rue Auber for example.

Seiko Prospex SPB053J1

Reference: SPB053

First of all, you should not trust the official photo of this watch (which I highlight like all the other watches in the selection): I find that this image is very unrepresentative of this little gem from Seiko. Seiko's Prospex collection has some interesting and already well-known watches, but the one that attracted me the most recently is this Diver, which was a pleasant discovery.

Useful info: the beautiful blue-gray suit is not waterproof, I recommend leaving it on for diving 😉 And if you want to wear this watch with a suit, I advise you to change the silicone strap for a model more suited to the city.

The thickness is reduced compared to other well-known models in the Prospex collection and the blue of the bezel suits him remarkably well.

Compared to some more affordable models, we go from Hardlex (plexi) glass to sapphire, which is consistent with the price, the latter being in line with the characteristics of the watch. The 200 meters of water resistance are a standard largely sufficient for diving situations, this watch being of quality and serious. I would recommend wearing the silicone strap on diving occasions or at the beach and replacing it with another strap once docked, changed, combed and BG (BeauGosse) for a drink ☺

Would you like another Seiko on the rocks?

Technical characteristics

• 42.5mm diameter
• Brushed steel case
• Screw-down crown
• Sapphire glass
• 6R15 self-winding mechanical movement
• 50 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 200 meters
• Price: 949 euros with silicone strap

The most

• Great discovery and great watch
• Interesting overall quality
• More contained thickness compared to other Seiko divers
• The beautiful blue bezel with its dial-shield treatment which provides additional protection against scratches

The least

• Only available with the silicone strap which, although very comfortable and useful for diving, gives an impression of heaviness/thickness that the watch itself does not really have: I would advise changing the strap to enjoy it on occasions other than diving
• The X of Prospex in the middle of the dial which is not very aesthetic

Available at the Seiko Center in your city or on the brand's website: Seiko SPB053J1

Longines Legend Diver

Reference: L3.674.4.50.0

The Longines Legend Diver is certainly one of the best watches in its category: beautiful and perfectly wearable both for formal occasions and for holidays and diving, it has many positive points. Above all, it is a faithful reinterpretation of a model from the early 1960s (*reference 7042). The current model stands out, among other things, for the incorporation of the date and the use of SuperLuminova.

Dare to tell me that it is not both beautiful and original…

Its 42 mm may relatively impress you on paper, BUT I advise you to be curious, not to limit yourself arbitrarily and to try this model: when worn, it is perfect for the vast majority of you.

This watch has an originality that is found in few current divers: the rotating diver's flange. To translate into a few simple words, it is an internal disc rotating in both directions that helps the diver to know the time remaining for his dive, it is controlled by the crown at the top . This cleverly replaces the rotating bezel present on almost all other brands offering diving watches.

The Longines brand is one of the brands with the most extensive watchmaking heritage. Its current positioning is a bit of a shame, because the brand has as much historical legitimacy in watchmaking as Omega. Classic beauty in the best sense of the word, innovation and reliability have been the watchwords of Longines , which can be found in the brand's Heritage collection.

Also available with a Milanese mesh bracelet.

The one and only criticism that can be made about the Longines Legend Diver is the power reserve of its movement (38 hours) which tends to be surpassed by the more recent movements of its competitors, whether it is entry-level or high-end. Afterwards, it all depends on the type of use: if you change your watch every week or every day like me for example or if you like to wear the same one for several months. The great advantage of the 2824-2 movement remains its proven mechanical reliability and easily serviceable by any independent watchmaker worthy of the name.

Technical characteristics

• 42mm diameter
• Polished steel case
• Screw-down crowns
• Sapphire glass
• Rotating diver's flange
• ETA 2824-2 self-winding mechanical movement
• 38 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 300 meters
• Price: 1870 euros (leather strap), 2100 euros (steel or rubber strap)

The most

• Particularly beautiful
• Excellent reinterpretation of a historic model of the brand
• Very versatile: this is one of the rare divers that adapts to almost any situation.
• Well-known ETA caliber and easily serviceable by any independent watchmaker
• Originality (even after decades) with its rotating diving flange

The least

• Nothing to say about the watch itself, at most the power reserve which has not been revalued on this model: 38 hours is now a bit limited
• Some feedback on the brand's after-sales service which is not up to standard...

Available in the brand's official distributor network, such as at Bucherer in Paris in the Longines corner.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Reference: M79030N-0003

I am closely following the other brand of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (the founder of Tudor and Rolex). Tudor has changed profoundly in recent years, the arrival of the Black Bay collection in 2012 marked Tudor's return to the forefront and in what way.

Gradually, the brand with the rose and shield integrates new movements, new cases and its visual identity has been affirmed through the Black Bay collection which is a return to the sources in terms of design. The leitmotif of the brand has always been to offer quality watches but at a more accessible price The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a reinterpretation of Tudor's 1950s models, and more precisely of the reference 7922.

Versatility and balance. Tudor has made one of the most beautiful pieces of the moment. Bravo! Now, diving without taking off your suit is a mere formality!

I have tested many watches, I take great pleasure in discovering vintage gems or new items, I appreciate their qualities whatever their price.

I have preferences among several different brands but here I must admit that we are dealing with a watch that represents a perfect balance . The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a neo-vintage style diver, it has a new generation movement and it is really versatile.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight has a reduced thickness and diameter compared to the other models in the Black Bay collection: a tribute to the brand's first diving watches, its dimensions are a nod to older Tudor watches with a smaller diameter.

Tudor has also demonstrated listening and responsiveness to a portion of the brand's clientele requesting new proportions for its watches. The result is there, without appeal.

Technically, it is flawless, it is a diver that perfectly fulfills its functions: solid and readable (thanks to the snowflake hands by the way). Its contained diameter and its design that combines classicism and practicality allow it to be used on all occasions.

I really like the steel bracelet of the Tudor Black Bay and I recommend buying it in this configuration but I recommend you twist it with the brand's fabric bracelet.

Who said a fabric bracelet couldn't be high-end? Impossible is not French.

Whether the context is dressy or on vacation, this Tudor adapts perfectly to a formal look: it is not a watch that will stay in your watch box outside of your vacation.

Technical characteristics

• 39mm diameter
• Polished and satin-finished steel case
• Screw-down crown
• Domed sapphire crystal
• MT5402 manufacture self-winding mechanical movement
• 70 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 200 meters
• Price: 3060 euros (textile strap OR leather strap), 3360 euros (steel strap)
  

  Divers with the new calibers are generally thicker. Tudor has developed a caliber that takes the positive aspects of the MT movements while reducing the thickness to a contained level.

The most

• Black Bay Design: Classic Yet Perfectly Mastered
• Very nice reinterpretation of the old Tudor Submariners which were used in the French army and commandos in particular.
• A diameter that is suitable for a very large majority of wrists using 39mm
• A thickness revised downwards compared to previous models (the watch loses 3mm in thickness, which brings it to 11.9mm, very reasonable for a diver)
• Quality manufacture movement (Rolex group obliges) and for a price much lower than what is seen elsewhere on the market
• 70 hours of power reserve, a clear improvement over the 38 hours of the old ETA calibers
• Excellent after-sales service and very reasonable servicing prices for a manufacture caliber compared to other watch brands.
• High quality steel and textile bracelet, special mention to the textile bracelet which clearly stands out from the competition and its manufacture in France

The least

• Honestly, I don't see... a perfect score and that's very rare in the sector.
  

  Perhaps my current favorite watch in this selection. It's "Don Draper approved"!

Available very soon in July from all official distributors of the brand, in Paris at Antoine de Macedo for example.

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial

Reference: 233.32.41.21.01.002

Since the film Golden Eye, Omega has become the inseparable partner of the least secret spy on the planet: James Bond. It should be remembered that the spy who never dies keeps his rank acquired in the Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve: that of Commander . Hence the use of divers who also allow 00 agents to get wet if necessary during their missions.

Of course, Omega's Seamaster collection is a perfect fit for James Bond's needs in his constant efforts to remain secretive. The watch in question here is the standard version from a limited series that appeared on the big screen for the release of the film Spectre.

The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre is a very successful edition. While the standard edition has some slight differences compared to this limited edition, it is still an excellent reinterpretation of a historic Omega watch: the Seamaster 300, a very beautiful diver from the late 1950s.

The new watch has a great many features that allow it to fully perform its functions as a diver but also to be an aesthetically very successful watch.

I have no hesitation in saying that this is a watch that I find very desirable because its neo-vintage aesthetic is made to please people like me who are sensitive to the history of watches while adopting deeply updated technical characteristics.

Here it is worn on its brushed polished steel bracelet.

In the new race for innovation that the best brands are engaged in, Omega has honestly succeeded in a technological leap in terms of movement compared to its old calibers with the arrival of the Master Co-Axial, the 8400 in the case of this watch.

This is a caliber exclusive to Omega that is part of these new generations of movements that take into account the problems of magnetism – here with a resistance of 15,000 gauss – and which allows for servicing to be spaced out over time.

To say that this watch is a lasting favorite for me is quite an understatement. I honestly like this watch, despite the thickness which is certainly typical of divers (the case must be waterproof and pressure resistant), but also of the vast majority of new generation calibers.

In terms of overall aesthetics, I would highly recommend using a Nato strap for this watch. and more precisely the Nato called "Bond". The Nato Bond is a textile strap with a particular pattern. Honestly, for this watch, I much prefer it with the official Omega Nato strap that I own by the way.

Beautiful and comfortable, the adoption of this bracelet has the advantage of making a little cinematic wink.

The Nato has a reputation as a bit cheap compared to leather or steel straps, but the look of the Omega strap associated with this watch allows you to get over it and wear it with a formal outfit, even with a Tom Ford suit, which actor Daniel Craig makes a specialty of wearing fifty of during each of his films.

Although I generally recommend wearing watches that are also dressy for formal occasions, the Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial can be worn with a suit very easily. But please, even if it is beautiful, do not turn it into an office diver, it is also made to take on water and save the world from the clutches of the heirs of Ernst Stavro Blofeld (historical and honorable leader of the Spectre).

Technical characteristics

• 41 mm diameter
• Brushed polished steel case
• Screw-down crown
• Domed sapphire crystal
• Exclusive Master Co-Axial 8400 self-winding mechanical movement
• 60 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 300 meters
• Price: 5500 euros with the steel bracelet and 5400 euros with the leather bracelet

The thickness of a watch is a factor to consider, of course, but it should be put into perspective: it is a diver's watch, not an extra-thin watch...

The most

• Very successful neo-vintage design, beautiful reinterpretation of a historical model
• A diver who adapts well to dressed situations
• Exclusive ETA movement for Omega: it is of quality and it presents real technological advances
• Protection against magnetism of 15000 gauss: the magnetization of watches is a real issue, the modern context leads to an increased risk of magnetization of watches, it is always useful to avoid a return to the watchmaker to have your watch demagnetized
• In terms of looks, it is absolutely superb worn with a Bond-style Nato strap with an obvious reference to the Spectre limited series released a few years ago.
• The reference to the secret agent without paying the price of the limited series which is now the joy of speculators on the second-hand market

The least

• Steel bracelet which seems to me to be poorly adapted to the watch, the latter being on the contrary a success: one of the rare times when I would advise opting for the configuration with a bracelet other than the steel one...
• Thickness of the case due to the combination of the characteristics of a diver's watch and a new generation movement which is itself thick

Available from official distributors of the brand or in Paris in the brand boutique on Boulevard des Capucines for example: Omega Capucines .

Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle

Reference: 3203-950

How can we not talk about watches that have a connection to the sea without mentioning Ulysse Nardin? The brand has long been at the forefront of watches intended for navies around the world: their chronometers are particularly famous and continue to arouse the interest of true collectors.

The brand is positioned at the top of the range and is of great interest to anyone interested in movements and quality of workmanship. At Ulysse Nardin, it is rare to find the same manufacture caliber on different watches.

The one that equips this watch, for example, the UN-320 with escapement and balance spring in silicon with antimagnetic properties, only equips two watches in total in all of Ulysse Nardin's collections.

Far from a tool watch, this UN is not only classy but also perfectly made.

When worn, this watch is superb, it is flawless on an aesthetic level, the small second is just perfect, the dial is both readable and beautiful. It should be remembered that Ulysse Nardin is a historic brand that has already offered this kind of beautiful watches in the past.

The model that inspired this one comes from 1964, with one notable difference: on the historical model, the second is central, while the reinterpretation has a very beautiful small second, which I prefer.

We don't realize it, but reinterpreting beautiful historical watches is not an easy exercise: it is a creative work that aims to reconcile two eras: the aesthetic references of the past by adapting them to the demands of modernity and here by allowing ourselves some liberties to twist compared to the original model. Last positive point: the solid caseback is a success.

The hammerhead shark is dangerous to humans but it will be more docile engraved on your box bottom

This watch has many positive points, but it is nevertheless necessary to reveal a downside: a perfectible water resistance that should be revised upwards. For the vast majority of users, 100 meters will be sufficient for your water sports and diving without trying to imitate the performance of the Grand Bleu.

Technical characteristics

• 42 mm diameter
• Polished steel case
• Screw-down crown
• Sapphire glass
• UN-320 manufacture self-winding mechanical movement
• 48 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 100 meters
• Price: 9600 euros

The most

• Very beautiful
• Very retro
• Very qualitative
• An eclectic choice
• An excellent and interesting caliber
• 5-year warranty (the standard being 2 years for the vast majority of other brands, with the exception of Rolex or Omega for example with 5 and 4 years respectively)
• In terms of looks, it is irresistible with a suit or if you want to change from the usual diving watches.

The least

• Waterproofing limited to 100 meters

Available at Godechot Pauliet in Paris.

Rolex Deepsea D-Blue

Reference: 126660

Attention, rather than recommending yet another Sub , I'm going to tell you about a less common model that pushes the limits of technology.

The dial colour – a beautiful unique blue gradient – ​​gives it its name D-Blue and refers to the submersible dive carried out by director James Cameron into the depths of the oceans. The D-Blue is the commercial version of the model used during the adventure by James Cameron's team.

It is a technical challenge: how to make a watch waterproof to 3900 meters without transforming the watch into a bathyscaphe (underwater device designed for diving in the depths)? It is difficult to understand the interest of such waterproofness for the basic customer or even for professional divers.

At this depth, the diver will certainly have the certainty of knowing that his watch will survive him (*small consolation you might say). It should be remembered, however, that a watch waterproof to 200 or 300 meters will generally not see any water other than that of the shower or the swimming pool. So why not a watch waterproof to 3900 m?

Technical performance can be appreciated and worn without actually using it in a real situation. The D-Blue is an extraordinary watch with extraordinary performance: the embodiment of Rolex's pursuit of absolute quality.

While it pushes the boundaries of technology, the D-Blue is a watch that is not made for dressy looks due to its thickness and a larger diameter than the watches presented previously. I would recommend wearing it with a more relaxed look. After all, you have the right to be on a weekend or on vacation.

Although I always recommend trying on watches instead of building prejudices about your wrists or the diameter of the watches, I would advise not to take a watch whose lugs exceed the width of your wrist.

Simple general rule that must be assessed on a case-by-case basis, it's your wrist after all, not your neighbor's or that of any "digital influencer"...

A relaxed look does not mean a metal bracelet worn very loosely: this effect, if exaggerated, is in rather bad taste. In the case of the D-Blue, this would be a mistake, a FAMeux colleague who has owned it for several years would like to point out that, more than other divers, this watch must have its steel bracelet well adjusted to the size of your wrist so that it is perfectly comfortable. The watch then becomes very pleasant to wear.

He told me that this watch has an unjustified reputation for comfort - the case back is slightly rounded and domed - but that this reputation is due to the poor fit of the strap. Having a Submariner, in comparison, he finds the D-Blue more comfortable for him.

The sapphire crystal used is 5mm thick to ensure water resistance at record depths. This translates into a significant thickness but remains perfectly wearable.

For people who are used to buying and reselling their watches, this is certainly an unusual watch, but also one that retains and even sees its value increase over time.

Technical characteristics

• 44 mm diameter
• 904L steel case
• Screw-down crown with Triplock triple waterproofness
• Helium valve
• Domed sapphire crystal
• Self-winding mechanical movement 3235
• 70 hours power reserve
• Waterproof 3900m (no, this is not a mistake)
• Price: 11,550 euros

The most

• Rolex quality is absolutely not a legend
• The quality of after-sales service guaranteed by the brand for 5 years is also not a legend.
• An extreme diver
• An exceptional technical performance
• A unique dial
• Resistance to magnetism with its Parachrom hairspring
• A new caliber with an extended power reserve while still providing extreme reliability

The least

• Relatively large diameter and above all a notable thickness but to be put into perspective in relation to the exceptional water resistance of the watch
• Policy of scarcity: Rolex has become a master in the art of making its watches desirable and certain models require certain waiting times before being able to acquire them...

Available to order from all official brand distributors.

The aim of this selection was to provide you with a wide range of watches that combine models that are particularly well known to enthusiasts, such as the Longines Legend Diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial or the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue, recent new models such as the Lip Marinier, the Hamilton Khaki Scuba, the Seiko SPB053J1 and the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and a model that has not benefited from enough exposure such as the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle.

If there was another one that I could have added to this selection, it would be the very upcoming Yema Superman Héritage which marks the rebirth of a French brand with very strong historical legitimacy and whose technical characteristics and design could clearly overshadow many Swiss brands... Since only the prototypes are available, the production model is being manufactured at the precise time I am writing these lines, it has not been selected for this selection but perhaps you will discover it in more detail soon... 😉

We will meet again very soon for a new generation of articles – Top Secret Project – so, until then, I wish you… a good dive into the world of watches.