Our selection of diving watches for summer

Notre sélection de montres de plongée pour l’été

Following the articles which detailed the underside of the watchmaking sector (available here: Act 1 and Act 2 ), it seemed useful to me to present to you a new series of articles focused this time on watches which represent a good compromise, in the context of a particular context, such as holidays or formal occasions.

I therefore responded to the challenge of choosing what represents for me the best compromise while taking into account quality, price but also style through a selection of eight new mechanical watches.

I must admit that I have always been disappointed by the selections of watches offered in traditional media where the advertising model predominates.

Reading the different selections, all the watches are invariably "iconic", "timeless", respect the "DNA of the brand" or the "traditions of excellence" and other copy-pastes continually reproduced on all brands and on all the models.

Rather than remaining on this dissatisfaction, I would like to offer you my own selection of watches: those that I appreciate (after having tried them personally or which are, at a minimum, owned by colleagues and friends of Forumamontres and after having exchanged with them to get their feedback in addition to my own impression of wearing it) and that I would recommend to my loved ones.

With the months of July and August upon us, for this first edition I have selected watches that will be suitable for one (and even several) summers. Hoping for you that it will be made up of sun, cocktails, meetings, beach, adventures, swimming and even diving.

If divers are the summer watches par excellence, it is important to provide a slightly more precise definition before moving on to the selection itself.

James Bond Ursula Andress

“Ursula, let go of the shells, I need a new watch!” »

What is a diver?

Although navies around the world had already been equipped with marine watches for several centuries – Ulysse Nardin being a recognized watchmaker in the field of marine chronometers since the 19th century – it was only in 1927 that the first watch -waterproof bracelet appeared thanks to Rolex (with the famous Oyster case).

There is an ISO (International Organization for Standardization) standard, ISO 6425, which gives a precise definition: a diver or diving watch is a “wristwatch that must withstand immersion in water at a depth of 'at least 100 m and having a time control system'.

Red wetsuit divers

Tests carried out in real conditions and even against numerous Spectrum agents!

To be completely honest, I find the standard in question quite restrictive... It mainly serves as a guarantee of seriousness for certain brands. The word “Diver”, i.e. diving watch, is not present on Rolexes but that does not prevent them from being real divers and much more qualitative than what the ISO standard dictates. Quite simply because Rolex, like Omega, can free itself from it due to higher standards.

In summary, diving watches must be durable and waterproof, and this makes them perfect companions for our vacations and for saving the world.

ISO standards are important in the context of the standardization of industrial processes or quality control and obviously for the needs of professional diving but – within the framework of this selection – we will not go so far as to make them the absolute standard , the essential prerequisite for this selection is waterproofing to a minimum of 100 meters .

In my eyes, these watches should above all allow you to enjoy your vacation... with a style that a more or less secret agent would not disdain.

My selection criteria

I therefore offer you a selection of eight watches , which will take into account different budgets.

Prices are increasing but the important thing remains the comments and assessments: some divers are elegant, others are versatile and still others have advanced technical characteristics. But all of them are mechanical watches.

It is not a question of pitting quartz watches against mechanical watches, as I said in a previous article, this competition is no longer relevant given that mechanical watches have largely regained the advantage. Through this selection, I also want to show you that a reliable and waterproof mechanical watch is available for all budgets.

Instead of offering you only the official photos, which we nevertheless keep as a criterion for comparison (you will be able to appreciate the difference elsewhere), I will systematically provide in this article several of my own photographs of watches, some of which are worn in order to so that you can have at least a realistic overview of these watches and not rely on internet sources or press kits for this article.

Finally, rather than presenting you with models already seen and reviewed in forums like the Orient Mako , the Seiko SKX007J and Seiko Turtle or even the Seiko Sumo and MarineMaster for example, I will rather take you on a dive with other timepieces, without falling into the opposite excess with totally unknown models or in too limited editions .

Now, prepare your oxygen tanks and dive!

Lip Marinier

Reference 611370

Lip is an old brand which combined the excellence of French watches, innovation but also quality industrial production which made its products available and for all budgets.

The brand has since been taken over and, although there have been many quartz watches, the mechanical watch has gradually reappeared. By fitting Miyota mechanical calibers (very simple but reliable), the brand continues its return to the forefront in its segment.

It should be noted that for several years, the assembly of watches has once again been done in Besançon, hence the words “Besançon, France” on the dials of the current collection. The development of the brand is going in the right direction and it was only natural that I would be interested in some of its latest models, including the Marinier.

Lip watch steel bracelet on wrist

A beautiful watch with a bracelet which is certainly not the one provided by the brand but which fits it like a glove.

The important thing is the watch, the bracelet, don't hesitate to change it if necessary. This is what I do on all my Seikos, Hamiltons, Longines or even some of my Omegas… A few exceptions: Rolex, Tudor or Grand Seiko for example provide beautiful bracelets which have qualities which highlight their respective watches.

Rather than presenting you with a model with a black or blue dial (the most common in diving watches), I wanted to test a model with a green dial . Overall, the watch has all the functionality of a diver with a unidirectional bezel , a screw-down crown, 200m water resistance and hands which are luminescent (useful when diving or at night) thanks to SuperLuminova.

Lip wrist watch, steel bracelet, green dial

The short lugs allow you to do without end-links and to adopt other bracelets without leaving too much space between the bracelet and the case, which is unfortunately the case on a Seiko Sumo

It is a watch which has many positive points and whose diameter of 39 mm proves versatile for a large majority of wrists. The dial has two windows at 3 o'clock: one for the date and another for the day. We find this arrangement on certain Seikos for example and, historically, we find it on other watches in a completely different range such as on the Rolex (Day-Date published in 1956 and which still exists elsewhere).

For my part, strictly personal opinion, I would prefer a model that only displays the date. The presence of a day window is not shocking either and it is also rather discreet compared to certain Seiko models.

This new Lip model has a sapphire crystal instead of the mineral glass that was previously present, hence the “sapphire glass” indication at 12 o'clock.

For my part, I decided to change the bracelet and I noticed when trying different types that the watch is more highlighted with a thick Milanese mesh - its rather short horns allow not to leave too much space between the bracelet and the case – and also to accentuate its retro appearance from the late 60s and 70s. I also advise you to twist it with the Nato of your choice.

Superb, right? I never hesitate to change the straps of my watches very regularly to give them a more original appearance. Considering the result, why deprive yourself of it?

I would recommend wearing this watch on "business casual" type occasions dear to our Anglo-Saxon neighbors which consists of canvas pants like chinos, Oxford type shirts or polo shirts (I am part of the secret organization of polo wearers at BonneGueule). It is obviously suitable for a casual style. By twisting it further with an appropriate leather bracelet, it is possible to use it in “business informal” type occasions which lie between the very formal style and business casual.

Technical characteristics

  • 39mm diameter
  • Polished steel case
  • Screw-down crown
  • Sapphire glass
  • Miyota 820A self-winding mechanical movement
  • 42 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 200m
  • Price: 449 euros with the green dial

Most

  • Nice move from Lip which offers a watch which consolidates the brand's move upmarket while maintaining a very attractive price
  • Good technical characteristics: it is a watch waterproof to 200m but with a different design compared to the current market
  • A beautiful green dial which changes from the usual black and blue dials
  • Diameter of 39mm which fits the vast majority of wrists
  • Very pleasant to twist on a Nato and especially a thick Milanese mesh
  • Excellent introduction to divers and mechanical watches

The lessers

  • Chrome metal bracelet which can fortunately be easily changed. I would advise adopting another bracelet: in quality thick Milanese mesh if possible
  • The mention “sapphire crystal” is dispensable as is the visible back (*the visible back is only really useful for showing interesting manufacture movements)

Already available in other colors, very soon in green and with sapphire crystal on the entire Marinier collection on the brand's online site: Lip Marinier

Hamilton Khaki Scuba

Hamilton watch steel case black bracelet

Reference H82315931

The Hamilton Khaki Scuba is a watch that is relatively little talked about and yet is aesthetically very successful for its price. Its contained diameter of 40 mm allows great versatility for different wrists. The model is available in three versions: orange, black and blue. The one with the blue bezel caught my eye more than the other two, but that's strictly a matter of taste.

Hamlton watch black bracelet steel case on the wrist

A very nice watch to wear and well made, here with a silicone strap from the brand.

This model is suitable for leisure use and for enjoying the pleasures of water. On the other hand, the model is not designed for professional diving, its waterproofness brings it closer to that of military-inspired models (100 meters being more than sufficient), which is also perfectly suited for the vast majority vacationers.

The Hamilton is equipped with an ETA movement with a power reserve of 80 hours, a useful asset for those who change watches frequently or those who wish to leave their watch and then put it back on a few days later without having to adjust it again. new.

I definitely prefer the blue version and it has nothing to do with the shirt worn that day.

I would preferably wear this watch in a more casual context, especially with a silicone strap. The style of watches from Hamilton's Khaki collection is not particularly suited to wearing them with a dressy style, even if it is possible to break a few rules from time to time.

Technical characteristics :

  • 40mm diameter
  • Brushed steel housing
  • Screw-down crown
  • Sapphire glass
  • H10 self-winding mechanical movement (ETA)
  • 80 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 100 meters
  • Price: 645 euros (version delivered with Nato) or 695 euros (version delivered with steel bracelet)

Most

  • Overall aesthetically successful, bonus for the blue model
  • Perfectly versatile diameter
  • ETA caliber derived from the well-known 2824-2 movement
  • Thanks for the full fund! The apparent fund predominates too much in the entry-level mechanical watch sector without representing much interest
  • 80 hours of power reserve (a real plus for those who regularly change watches)

The lessers

  • Water resistant to 100m, sufficient for swimming and diving reasonably but not suitable for depths or professional diving: a little limited for a diving watch even if it is perfectly acceptable for the vast majority of amateur swimmers
  • 24 hour indication which is more aesthetic than useful on this model
  • Date between 4 and 5 o'clock which will not be to everyone's taste even if it is a more frequent feature in the past

Available now on Hamilton's online site: Louis Pion rue Auber for example.

Seiko Prospex SPB053J1

Reference: SPB053

First of all, you should not trust the official photo of this watch (which I highlight like all the other watches in the selection): I find that this image is very unrepresentative of this little gem from Seiko . Seiko's Prospex collection has some interesting and already well-known watches, but the one that attracted me the most recently was this Diver, which was a pleasant discovery.

Useful information: the beautiful blue-gray suit is not waterproof, I advise leaving it for diving 😉 And if you want to wear this watch with a suit, I advise you to change the silicone strap for a model more suited to the city .

The thickness is reduced compared to other models in the well-known Prospex collection and the blue of the bezel suits it remarkably well.

Compared to certain more affordable models, we go from Hardlex (plexi) glass to sapphire, which is consistent with the price, the latter being in line with the characteristics of the watch. The 200 meters of water resistance is a more than sufficient standard for diving situations, this watch being of quality and serious. I would recommend wearing the silicone bracelet on diving occasions or at the beach and replacing it with another bracelet once at the dock, changed, combed and BG (BeauGosse) for a drink

Would you like a little Seiko on the rocks again?

Technical characteristics

  • 42.5mm diameter
  • Brushed steel case
  • Screw-down crown
  • Sapphire glass
  • 6R15 self-winding mechanical movement
  • 50 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 200 meters
  • Price: 949 euros with silicone strap

Most

  • Nice discovery and nice watch
  • Interesting general quality
  • More contained thickness compared to other Seiko divers
  • The beautiful blue bezel with its dial-shield treatment which further protects against scratches

The lessers

  • Only available with the silicone strap which, although very comfortable and useful for diving, gives an impression of heaviness/thickness that the watch itself does not really have: I would advise changing the strap to take advantage of it in others opportunities that diving
  • The X of Prospex in the middle of the dial which is not very aesthetic

Available in Seiko Centers in your city or on the brand's website: Seiko SPB053J1

Longines Legend Diver

Reference: L3.674.4.50.0

The Longines Legend Diver is certainly one of the best watches in its category: beautiful and perfectly wearable both on formal occasions and on vacation and when diving, it has many positive points. Above all, it is a faithful reinterpretation of a model from the early 1960s (*reference 7042). The current model is distinguished, among other things, by the incorporation of the date and the use of SuperLuminova.

Dare to tell me that it is not both beautiful and original…

Its 42 mm can relatively impress you on paper, BUT I advise you to be curious, not to limit yourself arbitrarily and to try this model: when worn, it is perfect for the majority of you.

This watch has an originality that is found in few current divers: the rotating diver flange. To translate in a few simple words, it is an internal disc rotating in both directions which helps the diver to know the time remaining for his dive, it is controlled by the top crown . This cleverly replaces the rotating bezel found on almost all other brands offering divers.

The Longines brand is one of the brands with the most extensive watchmaking heritage. Its current positioning is a bit of a shame, because the brand has as much historical legitimacy in watchmaking terms as Omega. Classic beauty in the best sense of the word, innovation and reliability have been the watchwords of Longines , which can be found in the brand's Heritage collection.

Also available with a Milanese mesh bracelet.

The one and only criticism that it is possible to make about the Longines Legend Diver is the power reserve of its movement (38 hours) which tends to be exceeded by the more recent movements of its competitors, whether at the entry of range or high end. Afterwards, it all depends on the type of use: if you change your watch every week or every day like me for example or if you like to wear the same one for several months. The great advantage of the 2824-2 movement remains its proven mechanical reliability, easily serviceable by any independent watchmaker worthy of the name.

Technical characteristics

  • 42mm diameter
  • Polished steel case
  • Screw-down crowns
  • Sapphire glass
  • Rotating diver flange
  • ETA 2824-2 self-winding mechanical movement
  • 38 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 300 meters
  • Price: 1870 euros (leather strap), 2100 euros (steel or rubber strap)

Most

  • Particularly beautiful
  • Excellent reinterpretation of a historic model of the brand
  • Very versatile: this is one of the rare divers that adapts to almost all situations
  • Well-known ETA caliber that can be easily revised by any independent watchmaker
  • Originality (even after decades) with its rotating diver flange

The lessers

  • Nothing to say about the watch itself, in fact the power reserve which has not been upgraded on this model: 38 hours is now a bit limited
  • Some feedback on the brand's after-sales service which is not up to par...

The watch also exists in another recent reinterpretation but with a diameter of 36 mm. For my part, I find the 36 mm version much less successful, but it could suit those who first tried the 42 mm model and who then tried the 36 mm model before favoring the latter.

Available in the brand's official distributor network, for example at Bucherer in Paris in the Longines corner.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Reference: M79030N-0003

I carefully follow the other brand of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (the founder of Tudor and Rolex). Tudor has changed profoundly in recent years, the arrival of the Black Bay collection in 2012 marked the return of Tudor to the forefront and in what way.

Gradually, the brand with the rose and the shield is integrating new movements, new cases and its visual identity has been affirmed through the Black Bay collection which is a return to the sources in terms of design. The brand's leitmotif has always been to offer quality watches but at a more accessible price. . The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a reinterpretation of Tudor's 1950s models, and more precisely the reference 7922.

Versatility and balance. Tudor creates one of the most beautiful pieces of the moment. Well done ! Now, diving without removing the suit becomes a simple formality!

I have tested many watches, I take immense pleasure in discovering vintage gems or new products, I appreciate their qualities whatever their price.

I have preferences for several different brands but here I must admit that we are dealing with a watch that represents a perfect balance . The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a neo-vintage style diver, it has a new generation movement and it is truly versatile.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight has a reduced thickness and diameter compared to the other models in the Black Bay collection: a tribute to the brand's first diving watches, its dimensions are a nod to the old Tudor watches whose diameter was more reduced.

Tudor has also demonstrated its attentiveness and responsiveness to some of the brand's customers requesting new proportions for its watches. . The result is there, without appeal.

Technically, it is flawless, it is a diver that fulfills its functions perfectly: solid and readable (thanks to the snowflake hands by the way). Its contained diameter and its design which combines classicism and practicality allow it to be used on all occasions.

I really like the steel bracelet of the Tudor Black Bay and I recommend buying it in this configuration but I recommend that you twist it with the brand's fabric bracelet.

Who said a fabric bracelet couldn't be high-end? Impossible is not French.

Whether the context is dressy or during your vacation, this Tudor fits perfectly with a formal look: this is not a watch that will sit in your watch box outside of your vacation.

Technical characteristics

  • 39mm diameter
  • Polished and satin-finished steel case
  • Screw-down crown
  • Domed sapphire crystal
  • Manufacture automatic self-winding mechanical movement MT5402
  • 70 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 200 meters
  • Price: 3060 euros (textile bracelet OR leather bracelet), 3360 euros (steel bracelet)

    Divers with the new calibers are generally thicker. Tudor has developed a caliber that incorporates the positive aspects of MT movements while reducing the thickness to a contained level.

Most

  • Black Bay design: both classic but perfectly mastered
  • Very nice reinterpretation of the old Tudor Submariners which were used in the army and the French commandos in particular
  • A diameter which is suitable for a very large majority of wrists using 39mm
  • A reduced thickness compared to previous models (the watch loses 3mm in thickness, which puts it at 11.9mm, very reasonable for a diver)
  • Quality manufacturing movement (Rolex group obliges) and for a price much lower than what is seen elsewhere on the market
  • 70 hours of power reserve, a clear improvement compared to the 38 hours of the old ETA calibers
  • Excellent after-sales service and very reasonable service prices for a manufacturing caliber compared to other watch brands
  • High quality steel and textile bracelet, special mention to the textile bracelet which clearly stands out from the competition and its manufacture in France

The lessers

  • Honestly, I don't see... a flawless one and it's very rare in the sector

    Perhaps the watch I currently prefer in this selection. She is “Don Draper approved”!

Available very soon in July from all the brand's official distributors, in Paris at Antoine de Macedo for example.

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial

Reference: 233.32.41.21.01.002

Since the film Golden Eye, Omega has become the inseparable partner of the least secret spy on the planet: James Bond. It should be remembered that the spy who never dies retains his rank acquired in the Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve: that of Commander. . Hence the use of divers who also allow 00 agents to get wet if necessary during their missions.

Obviously, Omega's Seamaster collection perfectly matches the needs of James Bond in his ongoing efforts not to remain secret. The watch in question here is the standard version from a limited series which appeared on the big screen for the release of the film Specter.

The Omega Seamaster 300 Specter is a very successful edition. If the standard edition presents some slight differences compared to this limited edition, it nevertheless remains an excellent reinterpretation of a historic Omega watch: the Seamaster 300, a very beautiful diver from the late 1950s.

The new watch has many features that allow it to fully perform its functions as a diver but also to be a very aesthetically successful watch.

I have no hesitation in saying that this is a watch that I find very desirable because its neo-vintage aesthetic is made to appeal to people like me who are sensitive to the history of watches while adopting deeply updated technical characteristics.

Here it is to wear on its brushed polished steel bracelet.

In the new race for innovation that the best brands are engaged in, Omega has honestly achieved a technological leap in terms of movement compared to its old calibers with the arrival of the Master Co-Axial, the 8400 in the case of this watch .

This is a caliber exclusive to Omega which is part of these new generations of movements which take into account the problems of magnetism – here with a resistance of 15,000 gauss – and which allows revisions to be spaced out over time.

To say that this watch is a lasting favorite for me is quite weak. I honestly appreciate this watch, despite the thickness which is certainly characteristic of divers (the case must be waterproof and resistant to pressure), but also of the vast majority of new generation calibers.

In terms of overall aesthetics, I would highly recommend using a Nato strap for this watch. and more precisely Nato known as “Bond”. The Nato Bond is a textile bracelet with a particular pattern. Honestly, for this watch, I much prefer it with the official Omega Nato bracelet which I own by the way.

Beautiful and comfortable, the adoption of this bracelet has the advantage of making a little cinematic wink.

The Nato has a somewhat cheap reputation compared to leather or steel bracelets but the rendering of the Omega bracelet associated with this watch allows you to go beyond that and adopt it with a dressy outfit, even with a Tom Ford suit, of which actor Daniel Craig makes a specialty of using fifty of them during each of his films.

Although I generally recommend wearing watches that are also dressy on formal occasions, the Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial is very easy to wear as a suit. But, please, even if she is beautiful, don't turn her into a desk diver, she is also made to take on water and save the world from the clutches of the heirs of Ernst Stavro Blofeld (historical and honorable leader of the Spectre) .

A small relative downside: the color of the indexes simulates the patina that appears on the indexes of old Omega dials: we like it or we don't like it. My opinion is not completely fixed: you have to judge on a case by case basis. In this case, I find that, even if it is not authentic, it is not shocking either: this color of the indexes suits this watch quite well.

Technical characteristics

  • 41mm diameter
  • Brushed polished steel case
  • Screw-down crown
  • Domed sapphire crystal
  • Exclusive Master Co-Axial 8400 self-winding mechanical movement
  • 60 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 300 meters
  • Price: 5500 euros with the steel bracelet and 5400 euros with the leather bracelet

The thickness of a watch is certainly a factor to consider but to put into perspective: it is a diver, not an extra-thin watch...

Most

  • Very successful neo-vintage design, beautiful reinterpretation of a historic model
  • A diver who adapts well to dressed situations
  • Exclusive ETA movement for Omega: it is quality and it presents real technological advances
  • Protection against magnetism of 15,000 gauss: the magnetization of watches is a real subject, the modern context leads to an increased risk of magnetization of watches, it is always useful to avoid returning to the watchmaker to have your watch demagnetized
  • In terms of looks, it is absolutely superb worn with a Bond-type Nato bracelet with an obvious reference to the Specter limited series published a few years ago
  • The reference to the secret agent without paying the price of the limited series which is now the joy of speculators on the second-hand market

The lessers

  • Steel bracelet which seems to me to be poorly suited to the watch, the latter being on the contrary a success: one of the rare times where I would advise opting for the configuration with a bracelet other than the steel one...
  • Thickness of the case due to the combination of the characteristics of a diver and a new generation movement which is itself thick

Available from the brand's official distributors or in Paris in the brand's boutique on Boulevard des Capucines, for example: Omega Capucines .

Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle

Reference: 3203-950

How can we not talk about watches that have a connection with the sea without talking about Ulysse Nardin? The brand has long been at the forefront of watches intended for navies around the world: their chronometers are particularly famous and continue to arouse the interest of true collectors.

The brand is positioned at the top of the range and is of great interest to all those interested in movements and quality of production. At Ulysse Nardin, it is rare to find the same manufacturing caliber on different watches.

The one that equips this watch for example, the UN-320 with silicon escapement and hairspring with anti-magnetic properties, only equips two watches in total in all Ulysse Nardin collections.

Very far from a tool watch, this UN is not only classy but also perfectly made

To wear, this watch is superb, aesthetically flawless, the small seconds are just perfect, the dial is both readable and beautiful. It should be remembered that Ulysse Nardin is a historic brand that has already offered this type of beautiful watch in the past.

The model that inspires this one comes from 1964, however, with a notable difference: on the historical model, the second is central while the reinterpretation presents a very beautiful small second, which I prefer by the way.

We don't realize but reinterpreting beautiful historical watches is not an easy exercise: it is a creative work which aims to reconcile two eras: the aesthetic references of the past by adapting it in relation to the requirements of modernity and here allowing itself some liberties to twist compared to the original model. Last positive point: the full bottom is a success.

The hammerhead shark is dangerous for humans but it will be more docile engraved on your case back

This watch has many positive points, but it is nevertheless necessary to reveal a downside: water resistance that could be improved which should be improved. For the vast majority of users, 100 meters will be sufficient for your water sports and diving without trying to imitate the performance of the Big Blue.

Technical characteristics

  • 42mm diameter
  • Polished steel case
  • Screw-down crown
  • Sapphire glass
  • Manufacture UN-320 self-winding mechanical movement
  • 48 hours of power reserve
  • Waterproof 100 meters
  • Price: 9600 euros

Most

  • Very beautiful
  • Very retro
  • Very qualitative
  • An eclectic choice
  • An excellent and interesting caliber
  • 5-year warranty (the standard being 2 years in the vast majority of other brands, with the exception of Rolex or Omega for example with 5 and 4 years respectively)
  • In terms of looks, it is irresistible with a suit or if you want to change from the usual diving watches

The lessers

  • Waterproofing limited to 100 meters

Available from Godechot Pauliet in Paris.

Rolex Deepsea D-Blue

Reference: 126660

Be careful, rather than recommending yet another Sub , I'm going to tell you about a less common model that pushes the limits of the technique.

The color of the dial – a beautiful, unique gradient of blue – gave it its name D-Blue and refers to the submersible dive led by director James Cameron into the depths of the oceans. . The D-Blue is the commercial version of the model used during the adventure by James Cameron's team.

It is a technical challenge: how to make a watch waterproof to 3,900 meters without transforming the watch into a bathyscaphe (underwater vehicle designed for diving in the abyss)? It is difficult to understand the benefit of such waterproofing for the basic customer or even for professional divers.

At this depth, the diver will certainly have the certainty of knowing that his watch will survive (*small consolation you might say). However, it should be remembered that a watch waterproof to 200 or 300 meters will generally not see any water other than that of the shower or swimming pool. so why not a watch waterproof to 3900 m?

Rolex Deepsea Watch

Technical performance can be appreciated and carried without actually using it in a real situation. The D-Blue is an extraordinary watch with exceptional performance: the representation of the quest for absolute quality at Rolex.

If it pushes the limits of technique, the D-Blue is a watch that is not made for dressy looks due to its thickness and a larger diameter than the watches presented previously. I would recommend wearing it with a more relaxed look. After all, you have the right to be on a weekend or vacation.

Although I always advise trying on watches instead of building preconceptions about your wrists or the diameter of the tocantes, I would advise not to take a watch whose lugs exceed the width of your wrist.

Simple general rule which must be assessed on a case by case basis, it is your wrist after all, not that of the neighbor or that of any “digital influencer”…

A relaxed look does not mean a metal bracelet worn very loosely: this effect, if exaggerated, is in quite bad taste in fact. In the case of the D-Blue, this would be a mistake, a FAMOUS colleague who has owned it for several years would like to point out that, more than other divers, this watch must have its steel bracelet well adjusted to the size of your wrist so that it is perfectly comfortable. The watch then becomes very pleasant to wear.

He told me that this watch has an unjustified reputation for comfort - the bottom of the case being slightly rounded and domed - but that this reputation is due to the poor adjustment of the bracelet. Having owned a Submariner, in comparison, he feels that the D-Blue is more comfortable for him.

The sapphire crystal used is 5mm thick to ensure water resistance to a record depth. This results in a significant thickness but which remains perfectly portable

For people who are used to buying and reselling their watches, this is certainly an extraordinary watch, but also one that retains and even sees its value increase over time.

Contrary to popular belief and especially contrary to what some media say, it is rare to see a watch retain its value and especially increase over time. There are some but they are exceptions which confirm a rule valid in 99% of situations. Furthermore, rather than seeing watches as an object of speculation or heritage investment, I obviously prefer to have them on my wrist and love them for what they are and not for what they would be worth on the market.

Technical characteristics

  • 44mm diameter
  • 904L steel housing
  • Screw-down crown with Triplock triple sealing
  • Helium valve
  • Domed sapphire crystal
  • Mechanical self-winding movement 3235
  • 70 hours of power reserve
  • Water resistance 3900m (no, it's not an error)
  • Price: 11,550 euros

Most

  • Rolex quality is absolutely not a legend
  • The quality of the after-sales service guaranteed by the brand for 5 years is also not a legend
  • An extreme diver
  • Exceptional technical performance
  • A unique dial
  • Resistance to magnetism with its Parachrom hairspring
  • A new caliber with an extended power reserve while still providing extreme reliability

The lessers

  • Relatively large diameter and above all a notable thickness but to be put into perspective in relation to the exceptional water resistance of the watch
  • Policy of scarcity: Rolex is a master in the art of making its watches desirable and certain models require certain waiting periods before being able to acquire them…

Available to order from all official distributors of the brand.

This selection aimed to provide you with a wide range of watches which combine models particularly well known to enthusiasts, such as the Longines Legend Diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial or the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue, recent innovations like the Lip Marinier, the Hamilton Khaki Scuba, the Seiko SPB053J1 and the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and a model that has not received enough exposure like the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle.

If there was another one that I could have added to this selection, it is the very next Yema Superman Héritage which marks the rebirth of a French brand with very strong historical legitimacy and whose technical characteristics and design could clearly overshadow many Swiss brands... As only the prototypes are available, the production model is being manufactured at the precise time when I write these lines, it was not selected for this selection but perhaps you will soon discover it in more detail… 😉

We will meet again very soon for a new generation of articles – Top Secret Project – so, until then, I wish you… a good dive into the world of watches.

Don, the master of watches

Passionate about history, watches and men's accessories, I want to build a bridge between the world of watchmaking and that of style. I like writing, the Golden Sixties, sunglasses, ties, pocket squares, boutonnieres, cufflinks... Without forgetting Betty. And Rachel. And Megan.

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