Test: Asket cashmere sweater, recycled or classic cashmere?

Today I am going to compare two cashmere sweaters from the Asket brand , which are "almost" identical.

Almost, because one is knitted in “classic” cashmere , spun in Italy, while the other, in 97% recycled cashmere, and 3% wool.

This winter, Asket replaced all of its classic cashmere knits with recycled cashmere , and when they offered me to test this new product, I remembered that I already owned the previous model. The opportunity was therefore perfect for a little comparison.

But to understand the interest of such a comparison, as well as what recently motivates some brands to offer recycled cashmere , we still need to have an overview of the cashmere situation today.

A primer on cashmere: market, ecology, and quality

Cashmere, which was once a luxury fiber reserved for the finest knitwear and fabrics, became widely available in the 1990s, and became "affordable" when almost all the major fast-fashion brands began to offer cashmere sweaters for around 100 euros or less, towards the end of the 2000s.

The general public got a taste of it, and since then, the demand for cashmere production has only grown.

Unfortunately, this democratization did not happen without compensation.

1. More cashmere, less quality?

In particular, some long-time experts argue that there has been a decline in average fiber quality, as more spinners and the brands they supply now compete for good cashmere.

The major historical luxury cashmere spinners such as Loro Piana (LVMH Group), Johnstons of Elgin and Todd & Duncan (whose splendid yarns we recently used for two of our cashmere sweaters ) are scrambling to secure their stocks. high quality fibers.

If Italy and Scotland are traditionally the two countries of luxury cashmere, we must however keep in mind that the vast majority of cashmere is harvested, spun and knitted by giants of the Chinese industry established there , such as the Erdos group (to which Eric Bompard belongs), which produces and supplies cashmere for the whole world, for entry-level brands (such as Uniqlo ), as well as luxury and mid-range brands. of range.

All in varying qualities ranging from mediocre to excellent.

When I published the Little Guide to Woolens and Their Appellations in 2019, I aimed to give a simple classification of the different qualities of fiber via their “fineness grades”.

Unfortunately, during the two years that followed, I learned not only that the "grades" of cashmere are specific to each producer and that these designations therefore mean nothing, but that in addition the fineness of the fiber alone is not sufficient to judge the quality of a cashmere yarn: the length of the fibers also plays a role, the spinning and spinning processes dyeing as well, and a thread composed only of the finest fibers will be extremely fragile.

In short, in case you still doubt it: the mention "100% cashmere" is no longer, for a long time now, the guarantee of a "product of excellence", and it is very difficult to know what exactly you are buying .

Unraveling the question of the cashmere market, and drawing up a list of who gets their supplies from whom, while being able to distinguish the different qualities of each producer... This would require colossal investigative work.

2. The problem of intensive breeding

If the increase in demand has perhaps reduced the level of requirements when sorting fibers, other avenues could explain the drop in quality.

In particular that of breeding conditions , which become less good as it becomes more intensive.

It is traditionally said that "real cashmere", down under the neck of the Capra Hircus goat, only grows above 3000 meters of altitude.

I'm not particularly knowledgeable in geography, but I think I can say without going too far that there is not an infinite quantity of pastures at an altitude of more than 3000 meters on Earth .

I therefore have no doubt that, as production increases, breeding descends lower and lower on the mountains , the fiber becoming less good.

But if it was only a matter of quality, we could give up and say “too bad!” . “Mainstream” cashmeres would be less good than luxury ones, and there would be nothing dramatic about that, after all...

However, overproduction linked to the increase in demand also causes a lot of ecological problems , starting with the degradation of Mongolian vegetation via the pastures which are constantly expanding, since the cashmere goat is almost exclusively raised in Mongolia ( the country) as well as Inner Mongolia (the region belonging to China).

More recently, researchers have begun to support the hypothesis that the destruction caused by these livestock farms is at the origin of the gigantic sandstorms which rage in Mongolia , therefore endangering the way of life and the resources of the nomadic populations which inhabit the steppes.

In short, the subject of cashmere quality was already complicated...

But the subject mixing geopolitics and economics , ecological, and ethical is even more so.

Here too, I would modestly admit that the subject is currently beyond me, and I would be careful not to give you an opinion or a firm judgment in the absence of in-depth investigation...

3. The issue of recycled cashmere

What is certain is that given the complexity of the situation, recycled cashmere appears to be an interesting solution for brands promoting more responsible fashion.

But at the same time, it is a luxury fiber, with very particular properties of softness, warmth and fluffiness.

So, if recycled cashmere helps to remedy overproduction a little, does it still have any interest as a “luxury” fiber? Is its quality comparable to that of classic cashmere?

This is what I will try to determine with you.

Time for the test!

The classic fiber model is gray.

• I have been wearing it since October 2019 , very frequently.
• I estimate it has close to 100 wears , and around 10 washes.
• From memory, its selling price was 195 euros.

The recycled fiber model is light brown.

• I have been wearing it since October 2020 , very frequently too.
• I estimate it has between 30 and 60 wears, and three or four washes.
• Its current selling price is 175 euros.

I take care of my cashmere sweaters quite lightly: washed at 30° on a delicate cycle (45 min), low spin (400 rpm), without separating them from the rest of my clothes or using specific detergent. Obviously, no dryer.

Some will cry heresy: it is true that washing cold, or even by hand, with a special detergent for wool, would undoubtedly provide better care and more beautiful sweaters in the long term.

However, for the purposes of our test, my relative negligence serves us quite well, as it puts the sweater fibers a bit more to the test.

1. Softness

To compare the softness of the two sweaters as objectively as possible , I did this:

I twisted and rolled them together, so that they formed a compact mass of mesh, and I could not tell, blindly , which was which.

I moved away from the sweater on the table, closed my eyes for a few seconds until I forgot how the "ball" was arranged, and came back to feel it all.

On several occasions, I touched different areas of this mass, mentally noting my feelings.

Little by little, two quite distinct touches began to appear: one was indeed softer than the other.

When I opened my eyes again and tried the experiment again, I saw, to my great surprise, that it was the recycled cashmere sweater which was the softer of the two. To give an order of magnitude, I would have rated classic cashmere 65/100 soft, and recycled 80/100.

This is surprising, because the main disadvantage of recycled fibers is that they are shorter , since the recycling process tends to "break" them.

After examining the sweaters more closely, however, I think I can explain this difference: the recycled cashmere sweater appears to have been slightly more brushed on the surface. In doing so, the fibers form a very light fluff which improves softness to the touch.

This is both a good and a bad thing, because although the initial softness is improved, brushing does not maintain its softness forever. . And the more a knit is brushed, the more it pills.

It is also possible that my "hardcore" maintenance has somewhat tarnished the softness of my classic cashmere, which has an extra year of life behind it compared to its little recycled brother.

In short, given the many variables, it is difficult to decide between them with certainty on the point of softness. We can, however, say that recycled cashmere does not disappoint, for the moment , at the point where I most feared it would disappoint.

2. Pills

By comparing the level of pilling that persists over the long term, my hypothesis about brushing seems to be confirmed.

All cashmere sweaters pill when first worn. What is interesting, however, is to see in what proportions, and if the pilling continues to reappear after one or two washes.

Both sweaters benefited from a pilling razor after their second wash.

However, the recycled version seems to continue to pill slightly on the friction areas (inside the arm and armpits), where the classic version seems to have almost none .

Note that the quantity of pilling in recycled materials is not unacceptable, but there is definitely a difference.

3. Bulking

What is “bulking”?

Well, imagine two pillows stuffed with feathers. You briefly try to squish them into a ball between your arms, then pat them back into shape.

One of them seems to plump up naturally and takes on a proud plump look. The other looks a little stunted and inert.

The first pillow has better loft than the second.

For cashmere, it's the same: the bulk is important, not only because it provides this "cocoon" effect inherent to cashmere , which almost gives the impression of wearing a small cloud, but also because it determines the ability to store air, and therefore, to keep you warm.

To compare the bulk of the two sweaters, I simply took "a good handful" of stitch in each of my hands, until they were filled with the material of the sweaters. And I pressed them several times.

After a few tests and hand changes to be sure , no doubt: classic cashmere is a little bulkier on a similar volume of knit. The material seems a little more animated, a little more alive.

4. Heat (and weight)

This is perhaps one of the most important qualities of cashmere alongside its softness: its warmth.

To compare the ability of these two sweaters to keep warm... I must say that I took the trouble.

For the purposes of the test, I stayed at home, in boxers and socks, in a moderately heated room (17-19°C), shirtless.

I waited for my body temperature to drop a little, until I felt a relatively stable sensation of cold.

Then I first put on the first sweater next to my skin, and started a 15 minute timer.

Sitting in front of my computer, I noted my feelings in terms of thermal comfort after 3 minutes, then 7 minutes, then at the end of 15 minutes.

I repeated the same process with the second sweater.

And to be REALLY SURE about my comparison, I did it all again a second time at another time of the day, for each of the sweaters.

Here's the result :

Classic cashmere

• Three minutes: I arrive at “thermal comfort +” That is to say that I am a little warmer than necessary so as not to be cold
• Seven minutes: I reach “thermal comfort++” . Namely, still a little warmer, but far from a feeling of “too hot”.
• 15 minutes: at the end of the timer, my feeling remained at “comfort ++”

Recycled cashmere

• Three minutes: I am right at a “minimum thermal comfort” level. That is to say that a little bit cooler and I would be very slightly cold.
• Seven minutes: I reach “thermal comfort +” .
• 15 min: the feeling does not change, I stay on “comfort +”.

According to my tests , there is therefore a fairly significant difference in warmth between the traditional cashmere model and the recycled model.

It's all the more surprising since having worn both a few times, the recycled one always gave me the feeling of being a little heavier and thicker. And as I dig into my memories of this winter , I remember being "colder than expected" while wearing my recycled cashmere.

Well, imagine that the respective weights of these sweaters further widen the gap to the disadvantage of recycled fiber: I had noted somewhere the exact weight of the sweaters upon receipt , and I was able to reweigh them during the test.

Classic cashmere

• Weight upon receipt: 280g
• Weight after a year and a half: 260g

Recycled cashmere

• Weight upon receipt: 320g
• Weight after two seasons: 315g

The bottom line is that classic cashmere clearly feels warmer than recycled cashmere, even when the latter is 20% heavier.

5. Wash stability

I don't have the exact dimensions of the two sweaters before they were washed.

I know, however, that both are "M-Short" at Asket , and are, a priori, identical in dimensions once out of production.

However, measuring them after a certain number of washes , I notice differences in measurements.

• Chest width: 52cm for the classic, compared to 54cm for the recycled.
• Sleeve length: 58.5cm for the classic, compared to 60cm for the recycled.
• Bust length: 61cm for both , a priori no withdrawal on this point. But I wear my sweaters tucked into my pants, and that tends to stretch them.

Obviously, both sweaters were worn a few times between their last washes and the measurement. (Because any freshly washed and dried mesh temporarily retracts before returning to its dimensions.)

I am therefore quite certain that the recycled cashmere sweater has better stability than classic cashmere.

I'm not too surprised, when I think about it.

I don't know where exactly these recycled cashmere fibers come from: are they "scraps" during knitting? Old sweaters crushed and then reused?

In any case, there is a good chance that these fibers have undergone many more washes and temperature variations before being transformed into a sweater. Which means that unless you really overdo the washing, all the shrinkage potential of recycled cashmere has already passed by the time it becomes the sweater you have in your hands.

While on a non-recycled sweater , there is almost always a slight removal of material during the first washes.

6. Conclusion and opinion

If we summarize this comparison point by point, this is what it gives.

• On softness: sweaters are difficult to decide because too many variables come into play, but recycled ones do well .
• On pilling: the classic fiber wins.
• On the loft: the classic fiber wins.
• On the heat: classic fiber wins (hands down)
• On stability: recycled fiber wins.
• On price: unless my memory deceives me, recycled fiber wins.
• On the environmental impact: a priori the question does not arise, recycled fiber wins.
  

My personal opinion is that recycled cashmere is a good option. Less luxurious, less high-end, it still surprises with certain unexpected qualities.

Let's say more precisely that it is a very acceptable compromise.

If you want cashmere, and you are not a textile obsessive, I think you will be more than satisfied.

The only pitfall for me is that despite a slightly lower price, this product remains in competition with mid-range cashmere products. That is to say that these are products positioned for customers looking for a certain quality, and consequently, the recycled version suffers a little from the comparison in this market segment.

On the other hand, if this type of process were to become more widespread at the entry level, while maintaining a level of quality similar to this one, I think that in a long-term comparison, recycled cashmere would have absolutely nothing to be envied by “cheap” cashmere in terms of pure quality.

While being a much more responsible alternative to the latter.

I'm delighted to see this offering grow, and while it may not be aimed at the most discerning among us, it paves the way for future innovations that may allow us to continue to wear cashmere while minimizing our environmental impact.

Bonus: Asket's answer to my questions

Because it is nice to have brands that respond transparently about their technical processes, here is what the Asket representative told me when I asked her if there were any differences in quality between the two sweaters, before carrying out the test.

For non-English speakers, I can summarize the answer like this:

The Asket brand says it has taken into account the disadvantages that recycled cashmere could pose, particularly in terms of durability, due to short fibers.

She wanted to offer a durable, quality knit, without compromise compared to a “virgin” (non-recycled) fiber.

Its Italian spinner, with 10 years of expertise in the field of recycled wool, would have adjusted the spinning technique to compensate for the short length of the fibers in order to create a quality yarn (and therefore a knit).

The brand claims (on a humorous note) that it can be proud to have the purest cashmere in the recycled cashmere industry, reaching 97% of the fiber for 3% lambswool, compared to 96% cashmere. for most brands.