Test: Suitsupply suits, the real findings

We have already talked a lot about the Suitsupply brand on almost all the men's fashion blogs in France and Navarre (even if very few have really tested it).

Suitsupply is THE brand that's on the rise at the moment.

Known as the white wolf by some who adore him, on the other hand others question the merits of a 300€ costume (can we really produce quality at that price? ). The brand also annoys some people for its advertising campaigns featuring naked women (a real marketing progress, yes!).

That said, and since at BonneGueule we like to talk about clothes, let's dig into the general as well as the details to see whether or not our 300 piastres will be well invested.

The fit of Suitsupply suits

Or how to compete with Don Draper.

We tested 3 models, with 3 different cuts. These clothes are not new and are mine (the bald Apollo is me). Some costumes have already been worn a little: you discover them after two years of wearing for the Napoli, a year and a half for the Havana, the Copenhagen being almost new.

The Suitsupply Napoli suit

We have a cut with a moderately pronounced curve (according to Suitsupply criteria) . It hugs the rib cage without pressing on it, which brings out a well-made bend (this curved space between the arm and the torso, which allows the shoulders to stand out at the top, and the hip width at the bottom to not not create a “trunk” effect).

The shoulders are fitted with little padding (= padding), but enough that a person with high and square shoulders will have to redirect to another model. On the fabric side, we are entitled to a Vitale Barberis 100% wool super 110'. An entry-level product from the famous house of Biella, which nevertheless remains an excellent fabric. Azure and navy caviar, it displays excellent luminosity, drape and fluidity.

The pants are tapered to end with a 19cm opening. They are sold quite long, and I am 1m83. I had to remove 10cm of fabric, and I won't hide from you that a second trip to the retoucher is not excluded.

Very important point: The pants are in drop 8 at Suitsupp': you should therefore be very careful.

As a reminder, the drop is information to take into account when you cannot choose pants independently of a jacket on a given suit . For example, if you are a size 50, that is to say 100cm chest measurement and the suit is a drop 8, then the pants will be 50-8=42, or a size 42.

The advantage of the drop is linked to the pants, because if you are a size 44, you will not be able to close them. The higher the drop, the more fitted the suit will be and will give a slender or even downright sylph-like appearance in certain luxury brands.

This Napoli is in size 44 (you read correctly, 44!) while I usually fill my 48. There, I had to open the waistband of the pants all the way (so the drop is useful!). Thank goodness we had resources at the beak (top of the belt) and at the tip (bottom of the belt, or the crotch). I will also come back to this point a little later.

The shoulders are perfectly fitted, without unsightly folds, with a slight rollino, or cigarette well in the tone (that is to say the head of the shoulder at the very top of the sleeve which protrudes a little and forms a small bump ).

The Napoli is therefore a success in terms of cut and fabric. It's a classic among classics, suitable for anyone wanting to buy their first suit. The risk of error is zero, provided of course that you order it in the correct size. €300 well spent.

The Suitsupply Copenhagen suit

Much more fitted than the Napoli, the Copenhagen can be recognized by the patch pockets, narrower lapels, even more tapered pants, but also and above all by the fabrics intelligently chosen for this cut, namely cottons and linens of the most beautiful effect, suitable for hot seasons.

The shoulder is without any padding, ideal for dressing a stocky physique . The jacket is completely unlined, except on the arms and shoulders of course. The fabric is 71% cotton / 29% linen, and its origin is unknown to us (but of fairly good quality and above all good fineness.

The pants are cut short, delivered with the cuff unstitched, therefore foldable.

Very tapered, it goes very well with ankle boots, chukkas, moccasins or derbies. I have a slight preference for a pair of double loops. With the cuff of the pants even higher, we will get closer to the Italian style dear to Luca Sans S (I have very good sites for purchasing gomina-brillantine under the coat if you want, Luca).

However, I would not recommend a pair of brogues with this type of very casual suit, which would clash with the formal aspect of these shoes. The result is therefore definitely there both in terms of cut and fabric. It's good, it's beautiful, and you have the impression of putting on a costume three times the price of this one (also €300). It's a 46, and I've done absolutely no alterations.

So I come to one of the problems of the Dutch brand, namely the very random sizing . The Napoli is a size 44, the Copenhagen 46: it is not normal to have a different build from one cut to another, especially when purchasing online. I therefore recommend trying this brand first in store .

In manufacturing, you can change the cut, length and shoulder fit, but you cannot change the middle ( the width and depth of the shoulder must remain the same ). Still, I had to size up for a suit that was supposed to be the same size. And I usually wear a size 48.

The Suitsupply Havana suit

A stylistic mix of the two previous cuts. It is extremely pleasant to wear, as the cotton from Subalpino is well chosen, as the cut is sufficiently airy to move without a hitch, while remaining perfectly adjusted.

Here again, no alterations made on this 44.

It's difficult to fault this piece in terms of the cut. The cotton canvas is beautiful, fluid and very soft. It creases elegantly, and a stroke of the iron from time to time will make it look new in just two or three strokes.

It is an extremely versatile piece, which you can wear in summer, spring and early autumn.

Casual or formal, it adapts to all desires thanks to its color, its classic fitted cut, and its details such as the patch pockets, open buttonholes and average total length (73cm) which will allow it to be worn with both pants and trousers. chinos or jeans.

Add a pair of hazelnut or cognac-colored high-top shoes, and you'll be right in the colors of Montreal's fall. A centerpiece of my wardrobe that I love to play with and discover new combinations. So you will have understood, my preference goes to this Havana.

Suitsupply suit finishes

Or how to have nothing to complain about at only €300. Another good point: Suitsupply offers a range of details for connoisseurs, which will make the suit a racy and definitely sartorial piece.

Horn buttons as shown above, and open buttonholes (rather successful in my opinion).

We also find, on the piped pockets of the Napoli, a half-moon. The half-moon helps protect the sides of the pocket so that they do not tear.

The work is really very clean. There is also real work on the linings. The Havana offers a blue gingham lining that you saw above, which can be found in the lining of the pockets. It's the kind of detail that is there only to please the wearer. A discreet choice that I particularly appreciate.

And on the Copenhagen pants:

A few words about Suitsupply shirts

My green gingham shirt, also from them, also has most of the details that make a shirt good.

Allow €60 for the first prices (including mine presented here), and €150 for the most expensive. Be careful, if you buy your shirts from our Batavian friends, they are very, very long. Mine reach the top of my thighs.

This is explained by the fact that they are designed for a suit, and not for wearing alone outside of pants . This is a very practical choice, which will prevent the bottom of the shirt from continually puffing up at the waist. So be sure to choose a Slim Fit cut on a casual model if you want it short.

Swallow, cross-stitch button sewing, removable soft metal ribs, everything is there:

Now let's move on to one of the crucial points.

The manufacturing quality of Suitsupply suits

A one-way ticket to China.

The constructions are rather good, semi-canvassed, with real horsehair, and a real bib:

We therefore note an iron-on bonding, which will return to the bottom of the jacket, this time without canvas (since semi-canvassing). The bib is real horsehair, supple and well secured, which gives a beautiful body to the piece, like a real canvas. The construction is the same for the Havana, but I haven't dismantled my Napoli, but that's it.

Interior cleanliness (quality of finishes in the room) is the main thing neglected at Suitsupp', we will find wires wandering around and no longer holding anything together at the end of several ports. The shoulder lining of my Havana is already unstitched. Do we have the right to expect from a product costing €250? I think so. You can't ask everything from a €250 jacket. But you need to be aware of this before buying.

But sewing and joining correctly is not just a question of cost, it is a question of respecting the specifications, and we notice that the manufacturing is not at the same level of quality from one part to the next. other. We also quite often note some poorly done topstitching, with an uncut thread which tarnishes the picture a little:

Last and biggest flaw, random sizing.

As I said, the builds are not necessarily the same from one model to another.

You may not feel good in a cut to your size, but the build must remain the same, regardless of the curve. My Napoli is a 44, my Havana and Copenhagen are 46. And my feeling is the same (except for the Copenhagen, much more fitted).

I therefore advise you to always take two or even three sizes when purchasing to compare them with each other . Especially since they offer returns. And they refund you unconditionally.

Suitsupply test: what do we think?

Suitsupply offers inexpensive models with impeccable cuts , worthy of the biggest names in PAP. The manufacturing is not impeccable, but still offers a quality that is not found in certain brands offering suits for €500-700, without even an ounce of interlining . We are faced with real work on different cuts (and God knows there are some), with real visible differences and details that will make everyone happy. From the very fitted (Washington, Copenhagen) to the more regular like the Napoli, the Sienna, or the Jort range (100% canvased which we unfortunately were not able to test). But also quality fabrics , coming from the largest Italian spinning mills in Biella, such as Vitale Barberis , Cerutti , Leomaster and Subalpino . Having seen the shoes, I do not recommend them, because in this price range (€200-300), you can expect better (Septième Width, Carmina on sale,

It is therefore in my opinion nitpicking to come back to the quality of the finishes, once again because the price of the suit and all the other pieces offered by the brand is really competitive. The value for money is absolutely excellent .

Other houses like Boggi also offer inexpensive lines, with excellent value for money, but you will have to pay at least €500 for a suit.

So I recommend Suitsupply. It is, as we have seen, a house which offers a more than honest product, at a very reasonable price in relation to the quality of the cuts and materials. If the house suffers from many manufacturing defects, these are more than compensated by a host of details which will make the difference in terms of quality and durability compared to mainstream ready-to-wear suits sold up to twice as much. more expensive.

100% wool, cotton, linen fabrics, without a single polythread, with a wide choice of colors, from basic to more advanced. If you want to evolve in this style, Suitsupply is for you. The amount of cuts and patterned fabrics will keep you busy for a long time. €300 well spent!