In March 2018, we went to Japan to visit our suppliers: one of the most memorable trips of my life (same for Geoffrey!).
From these meetings was born our parka with Kuro , but not only...
It was an opportunity to discover a phenomenal quantity of fabrics, each more authentic than the last, textured as we like. This is the famous philosophy of wabi-sabi, very widely detailed in our columns.
And of course, when we came back to France, we had a lot of ideas in mind. More than ever, we wanted to make you discover the incredible richness of Japanese fabrics.
So two years later, here are three garments made from Japanese fabrics, based on travel, ancient know-how, and human encounters.
- Benoît
But first: summary!
Our overshirt made from Japanese fabric and Polartec Alpha® insulation
It was time to release our first overshirt.
A must-have for any casual wardrobe, practical for layering and creating relief in your outfits.
But the design was not easy: we absolutely wanted a fabric with a "wow effect" , out of the question to release a piece with nothing to say.
So we found a tone-on-tone camo pattern . It comes from the venerable Shibaya house .
The perception of camouflage pattern in Japan
Surprisingly, camo does not have as strong a military dimension in Japan as it does in Europe.
It rather evokes vintage, old military pieces, surplus nuggets. In short, an "archive" and timeless dimension.
Camo is also very popular in Japanese streetwear, as a graphic brick worked and declined in a thousand ways.
In short, camo is a visual element that the Japanese love to play with. And it is precisely this spirit that we brought back from Japan.
1. A Japanese camo pattern fabric, directly woven in jacquard
On our shirt, you will find the emblematic pattern of military camouflage: woodland .
But using this classic camo as is would have been very first degree: we needed a more worked rendering . And without marked color contrasts, otherwise we would have a visually "noisy" piece.
This is where jacquard comes in! It allows you to weave (and not print) this tone-on-tone pattern.
When you have the fabric in front of you, the rendering is much more high-end and elegant than a classic cotton "military" fabric.
What is jacquard loom?
The jacquard loom responds to a simple problem:
How to weave patterns into fabric on an industrial scale?
In 1801, French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard invented a loom that used a punch card. , which guide hooks, lift the warp threads and display the programmed pattern on the punch card.
In a way, it is the ancestor of computing with its 0s and 1s...
And, without you noticing, this invention is:
- a technological revolution , because now only one worker is needed to operate this machine, compared to several previously...
- a social revolution , which notably triggered the Canuts revolt .
In short, it is difficult to realize the scope of this invention. But two centuries later, it is still thanks to it that we can create beautiful patterns directly in weaving.
2. A fabric with multiple possibilities
A pretty incredible composition and 100% recycled
The composition of our jacquard fabric is truly special: there are no less than five different materials!
Let’s dissect this composition together:
🐑 47% wool : the majority of the fabric, it provides warmth and a slightly fluffy feel,
🌱 34% cotton : for softness, but also to stabilize the fabric,
♻️14% polyester : in small quantities, allows the creation of jacquard patterns and provides resistance,
♻️3% acrylic : in negligible quantity, also contributes to the robustness of the fabric,
🌿2% rayon : also in tiny quantities, cousin of viscose, again contributes to the strength of the fabric.
And all these materials come from recycling!
That's a very good question!
Well this material simply could not exist without these 17% synthetic (polyester and acrylic).
In any case, not on a wool base, whose fibers are too short to be used in jacquard.
Jacquard weaving does indeed exert significant stress on the threads, so a binder is needed to consolidate the material. This is where polyester and acrylic come into play, in addition to cotton, which plays a lesser role.
A “wabi-sabi” rendering with several different textures
I find that this mix of materials works really well: the rustic aspect, and a certain " wabi-sabi" aesthetic are consistent with the military inspirations.
And above all, this jacquard fabric of 5 different fibers creates several textures for a truly unique result.
From darkest to lightest:
- dark areas contrast with the camo patterns
- areas with a marked horizontal weave make the transition between dark and light
- more irregular areas almost resemble tweed
- and finally, fluffy areas , scattered sparingly, evoke flannel.
It's an incredibly rich fabric!
But that's not all...under the hood, even more surprises.
3. Polartec Alpha® insulation in the body of this overshirt
This is THE big technical plus of this overshirt.
We didn't just choose a unique Japanese fabric and make it into a characterful overshirt. No, no, we also wanted to give it a technical dimension... although completely hidden with high-performance insulation.
This is Polartec Alpha®, already present in our fir green jackets.
Polartec Alpha® was born out of a need by US Special Forces for a material that would protect against the cold, while being breathable enough to wick away body moisture during physical activity.
Since it is a very thin insulator and can perfectly handle large temperature variations (perfect for wearing indoors, and not just outdoors, for example), it is therefore very suitable for an overshirt.
The Polartec Alpha® has a weight of 88g/ m2 in our overshirt. To give you an idea of comparison, that of our bombers is 120g/ m2 , knowing that these two pieces do not have the same use.
I have written at length all the good things I think about Polartec Alpha®, you can read it all here:
In 2017, we were one of the only (and first) French brands to use Polartec® ALPHA in urban clothing. So much so that our Polartec® ALPHA pieces now accompany the French Polartec team to its trade shows.
Two years later, I am still just as satisfied with this insulation of the future.
For those who are not yet familiar with this fantastic insulator, here is what I wrote at the time:
The life-saving reminder about Polartec® ALPHA
The importance of padding
This is the other great feature of this jacket: its hidden technicality.
I am frustrated to see that this element, which is nevertheless key to comfort, is too often treated lightly.
At a typical brand, this is how the choice of insulation for a quilted garment is decided:
George-Michael, chief designer:
"Let's go ask Jean-Mich' from production where we'll find the cheapest cotton wadding!"
(I'm barely exaggerating)
Most often, brands see it as the component that must be as cheap as possible .
They then simply specify that there is "padding", without ever indicating its origin or its properties.
It's all the more unfortunate since clothing insulations are constantly improving. So, as soon as I started to take an interest in this type of material, it was clear that this aspect of our Jules Tournier wool jacket would be taken care of. My techwear side spoke!
And very quickly, it was the Polartec® ALPHA that caught my attention...
Polartec, the insulation of US special forces
Polartec® ALPHA is originally commissioned by the US Army Special Forces.
In cold regions , soldiers often alternate between moments of intense physical activity, where they sweat, and much more static moments, where their body temperature can drop quickly. .
Until now, the Special Forces had a system of layers of clothing to remove or wear depending on the situation. Good old layering, in short.
It was painful, especially when the sweat had no time to evacuate and the soldier had to remain motionless: perfect conditions for shivering...
Their specifications were therefore as clear as they were complicated to implement. To protect them from the cold, they needed something that:
- keep warm (the base),
- facilitates mobility, therefore quite compact ,
- resists compression well , especially if the garment is rolled up in a bag or worn with a backpack over it,
- breathe when there is movement: excess heat must be evacuated ,
- does not fear humidity and dries quickly.
And that's how Polartec® ALPHA was born! Moreover, Polartec's marketing director will say that its technology " makes it unnecessary to remove or add layers during major activities. "
The bubbly Brendan Leonard paints a humorous portrait of the Polartec® ALPHA, comparing it to the snowy owl. This animal maintains its body at 38-40°, even when it is -50° outside.
I was also reassured to see the list of brands using Polartec® ALPHA. These include:
- Arct'eryx Veilance ,
- who used it "in a sandwich" with Schoeller and merino on a vest (over $400 each, though),
- Sea to Sky ,
- Triple Aught Design , a techwear brand halfway between explorer clothing and an urban spirit,
- Kitsbow , a very nice brand of cycling clothing,
- Millet , Black Yak and Rab , which I can safely say are among the best outdoor brands in the world . Again, the fact that such demanding brands use Polartec® ALPHA is a very good sign for me.
But why does it regulate heat and humidity so well?
Usually, synthetic insulation looks like wadding, like cotton used in pharmacies. Long cottony filaments form a more or less thick material. Problem: the wadding can sag, distribute poorly, be too bulky, etc.
So Polartec started from scratch, looking for another way .
Here, the filaments are replaced by a very strong and stable mesh in the garment . There are tiny "hairs" on each side: these are what trap the air and keep the heat.
And it is the mesh structure that allows perspiration to circulate easily. It is important that Polartec® ALPHA dries quickly, because dry air is a much better insulator than humid air.
Since the whole is much more compact than wadding, this allows relatively close-fitting insulating garments to be created.
Polartec made a video that they have the secret to , and which explains in a very visual way how the Alpha® works.
Turn the sound up to the epic music, and you'll want to save the world.
Quilting that doesn't sag
The Polartec® ALPHA has another advantage, simple for outdoors but very important for more urban clothing...
Remember, other insulators are in the form of wadding or feathers. If you put them as is as padding, these insulators sag. . So we need to compartmentalize them: this is called "chamber quilting", those little spaces that you see on any down jacket.
But we don't have this problem at all with Polartec® ALPHA! Since it is a very stable mesh, it can be layered very simply - almost like a tailored jacket interfacing - without needing to compartmentalize it.
In terms of the exterior rendering, on a "fashion" piece, it changes everything. We have an exterior that looks like a classic jacket, without the down jacket look!
So, what’s it like to wear Polartec® ALPHA?
This was the big question when I received the first prototype. Indeed, if Polartec is very breathable, on this jacket, it is still mounted under a good old Jules Tournier wool sheet. What interested me was therefore the compactness.
Well, for now, it's a jacket that fulfills its role perfectly . It's nice not to be too hot as soon as you start walking a little fast or inside a store, while being protected from the cold when you're sitting outside for example.
A year later, having worn Polartec® ALPHA several times, I am still just as satisfied with this material which gives a "cozy" side to this piece. Those who have worn our sleeveless vest know what I mean, even if it is difficult to describe: it is an enveloping and comforting warmth.
When you combine Jules Tournier wool with Polartec® ALPHA, you also have a great windproof result.
Because I'm not hiding anything from you: the limits of this piece
Not the warmest insulator, but the most versatile
First of all, it doesn't replace a huge down jacket for very cold weather.
Simply because down is the most insulating material. But at least there were — for sure — no geese mistreated in the design of this piece.
Moreover, Polartec® ALPHA is not intended to be the warmest possible insulation, but rather the one with the best bulk/warmth/breathability ratio.
And that was exactly what I wanted in this urban piece, which has to go from a hot subway corridor to a cold street and then back to a very overheated department store.
Polartec is also very transparent on this subject:
Is Alpha "warmer" than down or synthetic insulation, weight for weight?
Nate Simmons, Polartec's marketing director: " It's not warmer than synthetic insulation, weight for weight. We didn't try to invent a warmer insulation. We tried to invent an insulation that's more breathable, more active, and stores more air .
In the same way that synthetic insulations are not warmer than natural down, but perform other functions.
This versatility allows the Alpha to be suitable for a wider range of activities and weather conditions. It's what makes it a good layer under a windproof material, where other padded jackets have poor moisture wicking properties."
For urban use, where you constantly switch from hot to cold - while still wanting to keep a fitted silhouette - this is precisely what interested me.
In summary...
Outdoor Magic , a great site about outdoor clothing, ends its test of the Polartec® ALPHA with a rather reassuring conclusion... This is what confirmed my choice of this technology!
Outdoor Magic: " Hmmm, it's a bit of a magical insulator in the end. Not too hot when you're moving, not too cold or damp when you're stopping. This padding is the one we've seen the most this winter, and that's not going to change in the near future.
Is it an insulator? Is it a thermo-regulator? Is it a thermo-regulator insulator? Or a mutant padding? Or a platypus-material that combines all these properties?
You know what? I don't know and I don't really care. What really matters is that it works. And it works beautifully."
Your testimony on Polartec® ALPHA
Because you are even better placed than us to talk about its heat, we wanted to make a little space for a customer comment on its performance!
Because I won't hide anything from you: at what temperature should you wear this overshirt?
The purpose of this piece is not to replace a coat, far from it.
Yes, because you can't wear a coat indoors all day...
Let's say that in terms of warmth, it's equivalent to a good sweater. .
It will also be a formidable (and super stylish) ally in mid-layer. , between your and your shirt.
You can therefore wear it all winter under a coat, and during the mid-season as a jacket.
High-end finishes
1. A very soft organic cotton lining
We could have done without a lining, but we wanted a garment that was very soft against the skin.
Here is a 100% cotton lining made in Portugal, very soft and comfortable , and which greatly contributes to this "cozy" feeling of the piece.
The cherry on the cake: it is made of organic cotton .
2. Pockets on this overshirt
Surprisingly, this is a feature that is not very common on the overshirts that I come across here and there. However, it is very practical.
The challenge was to make them as discreet as possible, so as not to visually overload the room.
3. Fish eye horn buttons
As for the buttons, they are made of horn, with a "fish eye" effect (also called "cat's eye"). It is a button with two holes placed in a small gutter that recalls the pupil of a fish, or a cat.
Since the wire is in this mini gutter, it is effectively protected from friction that could wear it out in the long run. And for good reason: this "fish eye" design comes straight from the world of workwear where it is necessary to have the most durable clothing possible.
4. Why an officer collar?
We found that it gave it a more contemporary touch which contrasted well with the raw look of this camo fabric.
And then if you want to wear a piece over this overshirt, it's more practical with a mandarin collar.
What to wear with this overshirt?
I really like it when worn over a sweatshirt and jeans that have lived well.
But the possibilities are numerous. And almost unlimited: workwear, "casual chic", vintage, or even streetwear, it fits into many outfits.
The team took part in the game...
1. With a white t-shirt and flannel cargo pants
Christophe has put together an outfit that I find very interesting, because it subtly incorporates star pieces from the military wardrobe, namely these cargo pants — here in flannel for a more urban look — and a good old white t-shirt.
There is no need to do much more.
2. With loose-fitting chinos
Still in a vintage style, Michel built his outfit around a pair of loose Brut Clothing French chinos, a BonneGueule toki sweatshirt, and a pair of absolutely timeless Converse:
Europe | US |
---|---|
44 | XS |
46 | S |
48 | M |
50 | L |
52 | XL |
54 | XXL |
Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
c. Sleeve length |
d. Mid back height |
---|---|---|---|---|
XS | 41.4 | 48 | 62.9 | 70 |
S | 45 | 52 | 64 | 72 |
M | 46.8 | 54 | 65.1 | 73 |
L | 48.6 | 56 | 66.2 | 74 |
XL | 50.4 | 58 | 67.3 | 75 |
XXL | 52.2 | 60 | 68.4 | 76 |
Our Maruwa selvedge shirt
Presented by Michel
1. A shirt that you will make unique
Instructions for use
You read that right.
For now, this shirt is a shirt.
When it is yours, it will become the shirt.
The shirt that will live on you and develop its own character over time .
1️⃣Wear it
2️⃣Wear it again
3️⃣Wash it
4️⃣Start again
Magical, isn't it?
How does it work?
See that slight grid pattern appearing on the fabric? Subtle, isn't it?
To obtain it, the 70 artisans of the discreet Maruwa house worked different thicknesses of thread on their selvedge looms.
Among these sons dyed with indigo, some were also stretched more than others.
But the real magic of this fabric , it will be up to you to wake her up: when you wash the shirt , the indigo will loosen the weave and the threads will swell slightly.
This will make the fabric even more uneven. , with more relief and roughness.
Not to mention the patina, typical of indigo-dyed materials, which we always look forward to seeing gradually appear over time...
Self-finished edge means "edge finished on itself".
Self-finished edge, self-finished edge, self-finished edge... selvedge.
You understood it, Hodor loved this fabric selvedge is a contraction of it.
A selvedge canvas is therefore a canvas with a finished edge, which does not fray. It is delimited by this famous border, most often red.
How does it work? Thanks to the shuttle of a weaving machine which goes back and forth to curl the edge of the fabric on each side.
And if we love Japanese selvedge, it's because the shuttle of their machines is very slow.
This slowness, coupled with the patience of the artisans, results in charming irregular fabrics with an exceptional grain.
It takes more time and more expertise. So it's more expensive, but it's so beautiful.
2. An officer collar that will set you apart
Because this shirt deserved it, we gave it this collar which gives it all its personality.
1️⃣He is more relaxed, and that's fine.
2️⃣It is more original.
3️⃣It slips easily under many jacket collars.
3. A (real) pocket that will delight purists
"We didn't want to limit ourselves to its aesthetic function. It was important that the pocket was also functional." - Julien, collection manager.
It therefore has two reasons for being:
- Bring the purist detail of the famous selvedge edging, a nod to Japanese know-how.
- Allows you to store a bus ticket, a credit card,
or your ticket to the Beyoncé concert.
Because quality is hidden in the details, we have thought of everything .
4. What to wear it with?
They say "blue goes with everything".
Well, that's true.
This navy shirt is an easy card to play for creating easy outfits when your eyes are still glued together in the morning.
With elegance
Grey checked pants , whose patterns coexist perfectly with the plain shirt.
A pair of brown boots , to finish with elegance.
And that's it.
You can repeat with white or blue sneakers. You can wear a camel coat over it.
Have fun, as long as you don't try to put a wooden bow tie with it.
In an ocean of denim
For this outfit, I'll let our friend Boras, maestro of style, speak:
"Playing with colors and shades is an exercise that I particularly like. A gradient of indigo ending on white sneakers to break it all up.
The depth of the indigo of the shirt creates a link between the jeans and the jacket, both at different levels of wash.
In all relaxation
After a long day of work, follow these steps:
1️⃣Open your shirt to release the pressure.
2️⃣Put a white t-shirt underneath, for modesty.
3️⃣Wear brown chinos for color.
4️⃣Put on a pair of white sneakers for comfort.
5️⃣Add a wool bomber jacket for the cold.
You are now ready to go and enjoy a virgin mojito.
For an urban walk
"I love color contrasts, which is why I wanted to wear this shirt over a very light top. Richer in texture and warmer than a simple white t-shirt? Our ecru funnel neck sweater of course.
Below, I extend the blue of the shirt with our neppy pants.
On the shoulders, the greige of our yak coat brings a softer color, which fits into a seasonal monochrome with the belt and the brown Buttero sneakers. "
- David, Community Manager
Europe | US |
---|---|
44 | XS |
46 | S |
48 | M |
50 | L |
52 | XL |
54 | XXL |
Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
c. Sleeve length |
d. Mid back height |
---|---|---|---|---|
XS | 40.4 | 48.5 | 62.9 | 69.5 |
S | 44 | 52.5 | 64 | 71.5 |
M | 45.8 | 54.5 | 65.1 | 72.5 |
L | 47.6 | 56.5 | 66.2 | 73.5 |
XL | 49.4 | 58.5 | 67.3 | 74.5 |
XXL | 51.2 | 60.5 | 68.4 | 75.5 |
Our soft cotton and bamboo jeans
Presented by Michel
During their epic trip to Japan last year, Benoît, Geoffrey and Julien unearthed a very special painting...
"We wanted a mix of several worlds: the flexibility and hairy aspect of low tension jeans, the roughness and feel of cotton/linen jeans, and a... luminous color" - Julien, collection manager
1. A unique blend: 84% cotton + 16% bamboo = 100% natural
“Why bamboo?” you might ask.
"I don't have a panda to feed!" you might say.
“Besides, bamboo is wood. Right?” you might ask.
Well I will answer you that, like linen, bamboo is a plant from which fibers can be extracted. textiles with fascinating properties:
- solidity
- retains very little odor (anti-bacterial)
- absorbs moisture very well
It is also an ecological plant : it consumes very little water, needs neither fertilizers nor pesticides, and generates on average 35% more oxygen than trees.
But bamboo is not the easiest textile fiber to work with. .
For these jeans, the bamboo is completely natural .
A former Japanese weaver, Dova is now a curator of materials.
Its mission: to gather and promote the expertise of workshops that are too small to export their own fabrics outside of Japan. Sometimes, Dova even goes so far as to develop fabrics with them.
It was during a meeting with these gold prospectors that Benoît and Julien fell in love with the nugget that is this painting.
2. A “hairy denim” sprinkled with charm
There you go? Do you see them? Those little white fibers that dot the indigo canvas like snowflakes?
These are bamboo fibers which, shorter than cotton fibers, emerge from the denim to give it this exceptional texture.
Americans call it "hairy denim", and we are fans: thanks to this fine downy layer, the characteristic charm of Japanese jeans is pushed even further. With even more relief and contrast in the texture.
3. Flexible and ready for the splits
You probably know the feeling: you buy a new pair of jeans, you can't wait to put them on, but part of you is dreading your first few wears.
Why? Because jeans, at first, are stiff, rough, and uncooperative with your legs.
So it's up to you to take your courage in both legs, and mistreat your new companion so that he gets used to your movements.
It's part of the adventure.
But this time, we've done the work for you. Or rather, pre-washed it.
Thanks to a washing process, this new member of your indigo family is naturally soft, comfortable, and ready to welcome you delicately.
4. A blue canvas that goes off the beaten track
This pre-wash also allowed us to obtain a lighter indigo shade :
- It takes light beautifully.
- It changes from the shades of classic raw jeans.
Chain stitch on the hem, hidden reinforcement rivets... you already know our perfectionism .
5. What to wear it with?
Nothing fancy: it's blue jeans.
Pair it with sky blue, khaki, or even brown. Let its characterful canvas and beautiful indigo shade enhance the whole.
As for our friend Boras, he has prepared a chic workwear interpretation for you:
“I wanted to make a very “heritage” outfit.
Bamboo jeans were an obvious choice.
Although new, the particularity of its material gives a textured canvas which echoes patinated boots or a faded military jacket.
And its sharp cut energizes the silhouette."
Europe | US | EN |
---|---|---|
42 | 26 | 34/35 |
42/44 | 27 | 35/36 |
44 | 28 | 36/37 |
44/46 | 29 | 37/38 |
46 | 30 | 38/39 |
46/48 | 31 | 39/40 |
48 | 32 | 40/41 |
48/50 | 33 | 41/42 |
50 | 34 | 42/43 |
50/52 | 35 | 43/44 |
52 | 36 | 44/46 |
52 | 36 | 46/47 |
52/54 | 37 | 47/48 |
54 | 38 | 48/50 |
Measure (in cm) |
has. Size |
b. Half thigh |
c. Leg length under belt |
d. Leg opening |
---|---|---|---|---|
26 | 36.5 | 28.5 | 103 | 15.3 |
27 | 37.5 | 29 | 103 | 15.6 |
28 | 38.5 | 29.5 | 103.5 | 15.9 |
29 | 39.5 | 30 | 104 | 16.2 |
30 | 40.5 | 30.5 | 104.5 | 16.5 |
31 | 41.5 | 31 | 105 | 16.8 |
32 | 42.5 | 31.5 | 105.5 | 17.1 |
33 | 43.5 | 32 | 106 | 17.4 |
34 | 44.5 | 32.5 | 106.5 | 17.7 |
35 | 45.5 | 33 | 107 | 18 |
36 | 46.5 | 33.5 | 107.5 | 18.3 |
How to get the jeans, shirt and overshirt 🇯🇵?
Appointment on our e-shop and in our stores in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux .