In March 2018, we went to Japan to visit our suppliers: one of the most memorable trips of my life (same for Geoffrey!).
From these meetings our parka with Kuro was born, but not only...
It was an opportunity to discover a phenomenal quantity of fabrics, each more authentic than the last, textured just as we like. This is the famous philosophy of wabi-sabi very extensively detailed in our columns.
And obviously, when we came back to France, we had a lot of ideas in mind. More than ever we wanted you to discover the incredible richness of Japanese fabrics.
So two years later, here are three garments made from Japanese fabrics, based on travel, ancient know-how, and human encounters.
- Benedict
But first: summary!
Our overshirt in Japanese fabric and Polartec Alpha® insulation
It was time to break out our first overshirt.
A casual wardrobe essential, practical for layering, and therefore creating relief in your outfits.
But the design wasn't easy: we absolutely wanted a fabric with a "wow effect" , out of the question of releasing a piece with nothing to say.
So we found a tone-on-tone camo pattern . He comes from the venerable house Shibaya
The perception of the camouflage pattern in Japan
Surprising thing: camo does not have as marked a military dimension in Japan as in Europe.
It rather evokes vintage, old military pieces, surplus nuggets. In short, an “archive” and timeless dimension.
Camo is also very popular in Japanese streetwear, as a graphic brick worked and declined in a thousand ways.
In short, camo is a visual element that the Japanese love to play with. And it is precisely this spirit that we brought back from Japan.
1. A Japanese fabric with a camo pattern, directly woven in jacquard
On our shirt, you will find the emblematic pattern of military camouflage: woodland .
But using this classic camo as is would have been very first degree: we needed a more refined result . And without marked color contrasts, otherwise you will have a visually “noisy” room.
This is where jacquard comes in! Here it allows you to weave (and not print) this tone-on-tone pattern.
When you have the fabric in front of you, the result is much more high-end and elegant than a classic cotton "military" fabric.
What is jacquard loom?
The jacquard loom responds to a simple problem:
How to weave patterns into fabric on an industrial scale?
In 1801, French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard invented a loom that used a punched card
In a way, it is the ancestor of computing with its 0s and 1s…
And casually, this invention is:
- a technological revolution , because now only one worker is needed to operate this machine, compared to several previously...
-
a social revolution , which notably triggered the revolt of the Canutes
.
In short, it is difficult to realize the scope of this invention. But two centuries later, it is still thanks to it that we can create beautiful patterns directly in the weaving.
2. A fabric with multiple possibilities
A pretty incredible composition and 100% recycled
The composition of our jacquard fabric is truly special: there are no less than five different materials!
Let’s dissect this composition together:
🐑 47% wool : most of the fabric, it provides warmth and a slightly fluffy hand,
🌱 34% cotton : for softness, but also to stabilize the fabric,
♻️14% polyester : in small quantities, allows the creation of jacquard patterns and provides resistance,
♻️3% acrylic : in negligible quantity, also contributes to the robustness of the fabric,
🌿2% rayon : also in tiny quantities, cousin of viscose, again contributes to the strength of the fabric.
And all these materials come from recycling!
That's a very good question !
Well this material simply could not exist without this 17% synthetic (polyester and acrylic).
In any case, not on a wool basis, whose fibers are too short to be used in jacquard.
Jacquard weaving actually places significant constraints on the threads, so a binder is needed to consolidate the material. This is where polyester and acrylic come into play, in addition to cotton which plays a lesser role.
A “wabi-sabi” rendering with several different textures
I find that this mix of materials works really well: the rustic appearance, and a certain " wabi-sabi" aesthetic are consistent with the military inspirations.
And above all, this jacquard fabric made from 5 different fibers creates several textures for a truly unique look.
From darkest to lightest:
- dark areas contrast with the camo patterns
- areas with marked horizontal weaving make the transition between dark and light
- more irregular areas almost resemble tweed
- and finally downy areas , scattered sparingly, evoke flannel
It’s an incredibly rich fabric!
But that's not all...under the hood, even more surprises.
3. Polartec Alpha® insulation in the body of this overshirt
This is THE big technical plus of this over-shirt.
We didn't just choose a unique Japanese fabric and make a characterful overshirt from it. No, no, we also wanted to give it a technical dimension... although completely hidden with high-performance insulation.
This is Polartec Alpha®, already present in our pine green jackets.
Polartec Alpha® was born from a need for American special forces to have a material that protects from the cold, while being sufficiently ventilated to wick away body moisture during physical activity.
Since it is a very thin insulator and is able to perfectly manage large temperature variations (perfect to be worn indoors, and not just outdoors, for example), it is therefore very suitable for an overshirt
Polartec Alpha® weighs 88g/ m2 in our overshirt. To give you an idea of comparison, that of our bombers is 120g/ m2 , knowing that these two pieces do not have the same use.
I wrote at length about all the good things I thought about the Polartec Alpha®, you can read everything here:
In 2017, we were one of the only (and first) French brands to use Polartec® ALPHA as part of urban clothing. So much so that our Polartec® ALPHA parts now accompany the French Polartec team in its professional trade shows.
Two years later, I still remain satisfied with this insulation of the future.
For those who are not yet familiar with this fantastic insulator, here is what I wrote at the time:
The lifesaving reminder about Polartec® ALPHA
The importance of padding
This is the other great characteristic of this jacket: its hidden technicality.
I am frustrated to see that this element, although key to comfort, is too often treated lightly.
At an average brand, this is how the choice of insulation for a quilted garment is decided:
George-Michael, chief designer:
“Let’s go ask Jean-Mich from production where we’ll find the cheapest cotton wadding!”
(I'm barely exaggerating)
Most often, brands see it as the component that must be as inexpensive as possible .
They then simply specify that there is "padding", without ever indicating its origin or its properties.
It’s all the more unfortunate as clothing insulation continues to improve. So, as soon as I started to be interested in this type of material, it was clear that this aspect of our Jules Tournier wool jacket would be taken care of. My techwear side has spoken!
And very quickly, it was the Polartec® ALPHA that caught my attention...
Polartec, insulation for US special forces
Basically, the Polartec® ALPHA is an order from the Special Forces of the American army.
In cold regions
Until now, Special Forces had a system of layers of clothing to remove or wear depending on the situation. Good old layering, in short.
It was painful, especially when the perspiration did not have time to evacuate and the soldier had to remain motionless: perfect conditions for shivering...
Their specifications were therefore as clear as they were complicated to implement. To protect them from the cold, they needed something that:
- keeps you warm (the base),
- facilitates mobility, therefore quite compact ,
- resists compression well , especially if you roll the garment in a bag or if you wear a backpack on top,
- breathe when there is movement: excess heat must be evacuated ,
- does not fear humidity and dries quickly.
And that’s how Polartec® ALPHA was born!
The bubbly Brendan Leonard humorously paints a portrait of the Polartec® ALPHA, comparing it with the snow owl. This animal maintains its body at 38-40°, even when it is -50° outside.
I was also reassured to see the list of brands using Polartec® ALPHA. Let us cite in particular:
-
Arct'eryx Veilance
,
- who used it "in a sandwich" with Schoeller and merino on a vest (more than 400 dollars per piece, on the other hand),
- Sea to Sky ,
- Triple Aught Design , a techwear brand halfway between explorer clothing and an urban spirit,
- Kitsbow , a very nice brand of cycling clothing,
- Millet , Black Yak and Rab , which I can safely say are among the best outdoor brands in the world . Here too, that such demanding brands use Polartec® ALPHA is a very good sign for me.
But why does it regulate heat and humidity so well?
Usually, synthetic insulation resembles wadding, like cotton used in a pharmacy. Long cottony filaments form a more or less thick material. Problem: the wadding can sag, distribute poorly, be too bulky, etc.
Polartec therefore started from scratch, looking for another path
Here, the filaments are replaced by a very resistant and stable mesh in the garment . There are tiny “hairs” on each side: these are what trap air and keep heat.
And it's the mesh structure that allows perspiration to circulate easily. It is important that Polartec® ALPHA dries quickly, because dry air is a much better insulator than humid air.
Since the whole thing is much more compact than wadding, this allows insulating clothing relatively close to the body can be created.
Polartec made a video of which they have the secret
Turn up the volume for epic music, and you'll want to save the world.
Quilting that doesn't sag
The Polartec® ALPHA has another advantage, quite simple for outdoor use but very important on more urban clothing...
Remember, other insulation comes in the form of wadding or feathers. If we place them as is as padding, these insulators sag
But we don't have this problem at all with the Polartec® ALPHA! Since it is a very stable mesh, it can be layered very simply - almost like a suit jacket interfacing - without needing to compartmentalize it.
In terms of the exterior appearance, on a “fashion” piece, it changes everything. We have an exterior that looks like a classic jacket, without the down jacket look!
So, what's it like to wear Polartec® ALPHA?
That was the big question when I received the first prototype. Indeed, although Polartec is very breathable, on this jacket, it is still mounted under a good old Jules Tournier woolen sheet. So what interested me was compactness.
Well, for the moment, it's a jacket that fulfills its role perfectly . It's nice not to feel too hot as soon as you start walking a little quickly or inside a store, while being protected from the cold when you're sitting outside for example.
A year later, having worn Polartec® ALPHA several times, I still remain satisfied with this material which gives a "cozy" side to this piece. Those who have worn our sleeveless vest know what I mean, even though it's difficult to describe: it's an enveloping and comforting warmth.
When you combine Jules Tournier wool with Polartec® ALPHA, you also have a great windproof result.
Because I'm not hiding anything from you: the limits of this room
Not the warmest insulation, but the most versatile
First of all, it doesn't replace a huge down jacket for very cold weather.
Quite simply because down is the most insulating thing. But at least there were — with certainty — no mistreated geese in the design of this piece.
Moreover, Polartec® ALPHA is not intended to be the warmest insulation possible, but rather the one that has the best bulk/warmth/breathability ratio.
And that was exactly what I wanted in this urban piece, which has to go from a hot subway corridor, to a cold street, and then back into a very overheated department store.
Polartec is also very transparent on this subject:
Is Alpha “warmer” than down or synthetic insulation, pound for pound?
Nate Simmons, marketing director of Polartec: " It's not warmer than synthetic insulation, for the same weight. We didn't try to invent a warmer insulation. We tried to invent a more breathable, more breathable insulation. active, and which stores more air .
In the same way that synthetic insulation is not warmer than natural down, but serves other functions.
This versatility allows the Alpha to be suitable for a wider range of activities and weather conditions. This is what makes it good padding under a windproof material, where other padded jackets do not wick away moisture well."
For city use, where you constantly go from hot to cold - while wanting to keep a fitted silhouette - this is precisely what interested me.
In summary...
Outdoor Magic , a great site on outdoor clothing, ends its review of Polartec® ALPHA with a rather reassuring conclusion... This is what reassured me in the choice of this technology!
Outdoor Magic: " Hmmm, it's ultimately a somewhat magical insulator. Not too hot when you move, not too cold or damp when you stop. This padding is the one we've seen the most this winter, and this is not going to change in the near future.
Is it an insulator? Is it a thermo-regulator? Is it a thermo-regulating insulation? Or mutant stuffing? Or a platypus material that combines all these properties?
You know what ? I don't know anything about it and I don't really care. What really matters is that it works. And it works admirably."
Your testimony about Polartec® ALPHA
Because you are even better placed than us to talk about its warmth, we wanted to make a little space for a customer comment on its performance!
Because I'm not hiding anything from you: at what temperature should you wear this overshirt?
The purpose of this piece is not to replace a coat, far from it.
Yes, because you can't wear a coat indoors all day...
Let's say that in terms of warmth, it is equivalent to a good sweater
She will also be a formidable (and super stylish) ally in mid-layer
You can therefore wear it all winter under a coat, and during mid-season as a jacket.
High-end finishes
1. A very soft organic cotton lining
We could have done without a lining, but we wanted a garment that was very soft against the skin.
Here is a 100% cotton lining made in Portugal, very soft and comfortable , and which contributes greatly to this "cozy" feeling of the room.
The icing on the cake: it is made of organic cotton .
2. Pockets on this overshirt
Surprisingly, this is a feature that is not very common on the overshirts that I come across here and there. However, it is very practical.
The challenge was to make them as discreet as possible, so as not to visually overload the room.
3. Fish eye horn buttons
As for the buttons, they are made of horn, with a "fish eye" effect (also called "cat's eye"). It is a button with two holes placed in a small groove which resembles the pupil of a fish or a cat.
Since the wire is in this mini gutter, it is effectively protected from friction which could wear it out in the long run. And for good reason: this “fish eye” design comes straight from the world of workwear where it is necessary to have the most durable clothing possible.
4. Why an officer collar?
We found that it gave it a more contemporary touch which contrasted well with the raw appearance of this camo fabric.
And then if you want to wear a piece over this overshirt, it's more practical with a stand collar.
What to wear this overshirt with?
I really like it when worn over a well-worn sweatshirt and jeans.
But the possibilities are numerous. And almost unlimited: workwear, "casual chic", vintage, or even streetwear, it slips into many outfits.
The team took part in the game...
1. With a white tee and flannel cargo pants
Christophe put together an outfit that I find very interesting, because it subtly incorporates star pieces from the military wardrobe, namely these cargo pants – here in flannel for a more urban look – and a good old white t-shirt.
There is no need to do much more.
2. With loose-fit chinos
Still in a vintage style, Michel builds his outfit around a loose French chino from Brut Clothing , a BonneGueule toki sweatshirt, and an absolutely timeless pair of Converse:
Europe | US |
---|---|
44 | XS |
46 | S |
48 | M |
50 | L |
52 | XL |
54 | XXL |
Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
vs. Sleeve length |
d. Middle back height |
---|---|---|---|---|
XS | 41.4 | 48 | 62.9 | 70 |
S | 45 | 52 | 64 | 72 |
M | 46.8 | 54 | 65.1 | 73 |
L | 48.6 | 56 | 66.2 | 74 |
XL | 50.4 | 58 | 67.3 | 75 |
XXL | 52.2 | 60 | 68.4 | 76 |
Our Maruwa selvedge shirt
Presented by Michel
1. A shirt that you will make unique
Manual
You read correctly.
For now, this shirt is a shirt.
When it is yours, it will become the shirt.
The shirt that will live on you and develop its own character over time .
1️⃣Wear it
2️⃣Wear it again
3️⃣Wash it
4️⃣Start again
Magical, isn't it?
How does it work?
Do you see this slight grid that appears on the fabric? Subtle, isn't it?
To obtain it, the 70 artisans of the discreet Maruwa house worked different thicknesses of thread on their selvedge looms.
Among these sons
But the real magic of this fabric
This will make the fabric even more uneven
Not to mention the patina, typical of indigo-dyed materials, which we always look forward to seeing gradually appear over time...
Self-finished edge means “edge finished on itself”.
Self-finished edge, self-finished edge, self-finished edge... selvedge.
You understand, Hodor loved this fabric selvedge is its contraction.
A selvedge canvas is therefore a canvas with a finished edge, which does not fray. It is delimited by this famous border, most often red.
How it works ? Thanks to the shuttle of a weaving machine which goes back and forth to loop the edge of the fabric on each side.
And if we love Japanese selvedge, it's because the shuttle of their machines is very slow.
This slowness, coupled with the patience of the artisans, results in charming irregular fabrics with exceptional grain.
It takes more time and more expertise. So it's more expensive, but it's so beautiful.
2. A stand collar that will set you apart
Because this shirt deserved it, we gave it this collar which gives it all its personality.
1️⃣He's more relaxed, and that's a good thing.
2️⃣It is more original.
3️⃣It slips easily under many jacket collars.
3. A (real) pocket that will delight purists
“We didn’t want to limit ourselves to its aesthetic function. It was important that the pocket was also functional.” - Julien, collection manager.
It therefore has two reasons for being:
- Bringing the purist detail of the famous selvedge edging, a nod to Japanese know-how.
- Allow you to store a bus ticket, a credit card,
or your ticket to the Beyoncé concert.
Because quality is hidden in the details, we have thought of everything
4. What to wear it with?
They say that “blue goes with everything”.
Well, it's true.
This navy shirt is a simple card to play for easy outfits when your eyes are still glued to each other in the morning.
With elegance
Gray checked pants , whose patterns coexist perfectly with the plain shirt.
A pair of brown boots , to finish with elegance.
And that's all.
You can repeat with white or blue sneakers. You can wear a camel coat over it.
Have fun, as long as you don't try to put a wooden bow tie on it.
In an ocean of denim
For this outfit, I'll let our friend Boras, style maestro, speak:
“Playing with colors and shades is an exercise that I particularly like. A gradient of indigo ending on white sneakers to break it all up.
The depth of the indigo of the shirt creates a link between the jeans and the jacket, both at different levels of wash."
In complete relaxation
After a long day of work, follow these steps:
1️⃣Open your shirt, to release the pressure.
2️⃣Put a white t-shirt underneath, for modesty.
3️⃣Put on brown chinos for color.
4️⃣Put on a pair of white sneakers for comfort.
5️⃣Add a wool bomber jacket for the cold.
You are now ready to enjoy a virgin mojito.
For an urban stroll
"I like color contrasts, which is why I wanted to wear this shirt over a very light top. Richer in texture and warmer than a simple white t-shirt? Our ecru funnel neck sweater of course.
At the bottom, I extend the blue of the shirt with our neppy pants.
On the shoulders, the greige of our yak coat brings a softer color, which fits into a seasonal shades with the belt and brown Buttero sneakers. "
-David, Community Manager
Europe | US |
---|---|
44 | XS |
46 | S |
48 | M |
50 | L |
52 | XL |
54 | XXL |
Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
vs. Sleeve length |
d. Middle back height |
---|---|---|---|---|
XS | 40.4 | 48.5 | 62.9 | 69.5 |
S | 44 | 52.5 | 64 | 71.5 |
M | 45.8 | 54.5 | 65.1 | 72.5 |
L | 47.6 | 56.5 | 66.2 | 73.5 |
XL | 49.4 | 58.5 | 67.3 | 74.5 |
XXL | 51.2 | 60.5 | 68.4 | 75.5 |
Our soft cotton and bamboo jeans
Presented by Michel
During their epic trip to Japan last year, Benoît, Geoffrey and Julien unearthed a very special painting...
“We wanted a mix of several worlds: the flexibility and hairy appearance of low tension jeans, the roughness and texture of cotton/linen jeans, and a... luminous color” - Julien, collection manager
1. A unique blend: 84% cotton + 16% bamboo = 100% natural
“Why bamboo?” you might ask.
“I don’t have a panda to feed!” , you will tell me.
“Besides, bamboo is wood. Right?” , you will ask me.
Well I will tell you that, just like linen, bamboo is a plant from which fibers can be extracted.
- solidity
- keeps odors very little (anti-bacterial)
- absorbs moisture very well
It is also an ecological plant : it consumes very little water, does not need fertilizers or pesticides, and generates on average 35% more oxygen than trees.
But bamboo is not the easiest textile fiber to work with
For these jeans, the bamboo is entirely natural
A former Japanese weaver, Dova is now a curator of materials.
Its mission: to bring together and promote the expertise of workshops too small to export their fabrics outside of Japan themselves. Sometimes, Dova even goes so far as to develop fabrics with them.
It was therefore during a meeting with these gold prospectors that Benoît and Julien fell in love with the nugget that is this painting.
2. A “hairy denim” sprinkled with charm
That's it ? Do you see them? These little white fibers that dot the indigo canvas like snowflakes?
These are bamboo fibers which, shorter than cotton fibers, emerge from the denim to give it this exceptional texture.
The Americans call it "hairy denim", and we are fans of it: thanks to this thin fluffy layer, the characteristic charm of Japanese jeans is taken even further. With even more relief and contrast in texture.
3. Flexible and ready for the splits
You probably know this feeling: you buy new jeans, you can't wait to put them on, but a part of you is dreading your first wear.
For what ? Because jeans, at first, are rigid, rough, uncooperative with your legs.
It is therefore up to you to pluck up your courage and manhandle your new companion so that he gets used to your movements.
It's part of the adventure.
But this time, we've pre-prepared the job for you. Or rather pre-washed.
Thanks to a washing process, this new member of your indigo family is naturally supple, comfortable, and ready to welcome you with delicacy.
4. A blue canvas that goes off the beaten track
This pre-wash also allowed us to obtain a lighter indigo shade :
- It takes the light beautifully.
- She changes shades of classic raw jeans.
Chain stitch on the hem, hidden reinforcement rivets... you already know our perfectionism
5. What to wear it with?
Nothing fancy: it's blue jeans.
Pair it with sky blue, khaki, or even brown. Let its characterful canvas and its beautiful indigo shade sublimate the whole.
As for our friend Boras, he has prepared a chic workwear interpretation for you:
“I wanted to make a truly “heritage” outfit.
Bamboo jeans were an obvious choice.
Although new, the particularity of its material gives a textured canvas that echoes weathered boots or a faded military jacket.
And its sharp cut energizes the silhouette."
Europe | US | FR |
---|---|---|
42 | 26 | 34/35 |
42/44 | 27 | 35/36 |
44 | 28 | 36/37 |
44/46 | 29 | 37/38 |
46 | 30 | 38/39 |
46/48 | 31 | 39/40 |
48 | 32 | 40/41 |
48/50 | 33 | 41/42 |
50 | 34 | 42/43 |
50/52 | 35 | 43/44 |
52 | 36 | 44/46 |
52 | 36 | 46/47 |
52/54 | 37 | 47/48 |
54 | 38 | 48/50 |
Measure (in cm) |
has. Size |
b. Half thigh |
vs. Leg length below waistband |
d. Leg opening |
---|---|---|---|---|
26 | 36.5 | 28.5 | 103 | 15.3 |
27 | 37.5 | 29 | 103 | 15.6 |
28 | 38.5 | 29.5 | 103.5 | 15.9 |
29 | 39.5 | 30 | 104 | 16.2 |
30 | 40.5 | 30.5 | 104.5 | 16.5 |
31 | 41.5 | 31 | 105 | 16.8 |
32 | 42.5 | 31.5 | 105.5 | 17.1 |
33 | 43.5 | 32 | 106 | 17.4 |
34 | 44.5 | 32.5 | 106.5 | 17.7 |
35 | 45.5 | 33 | 107 | 18 |
36 | 46.5 | 33.5 | 107.5 | 18.3 |
How to get the jeans, shirt and overshirt 🇯🇵?
Appointment on our e-shop and in our stores in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux .