Brand review #3: French know-how, Norwegian stitching and leather of the future

BonneGueule line: Loro Piana wool suits Reading Brand review #3: French know-how, Norwegian stitching and leather of the future Next File: Shelving her career to found her leather goods brand

We meet again for a new issue of the Revue des marques, a section in which some members of the team regularly present to you their favorites, their desires and their inspirations.

Today, I have the pleasure of showing you the latest stylistic trips of Clémence, Nicolò, Pierre and Paul. Together, we'll talk about shirts, swimsuits, luggage, perfume... always with a good dose of advice.

What ? Are you more interested in Luca's desires or Jason's desires? Patience... I promise to talk about it in a future episode!

For now, we're embarking on this third part. Hot in front!

Brand Review Summary

    • Clémence: spring scents
    • Nicolò: easy-to-wear traditional workwear
    • Japanese inspirations from Pierre
    • Paul and his summer desires
  • Team purchases
    • Hats off to Clémence
    • Nicolò: the all-terrain chukka and the Japanese shirt made in France
    • Pierre: a look at a favorite
    • Paul: 48 hours flat
  • The grain of madness
    • Clémence empties her bag
    • Nicolò and his machine-washable Loro Piana suede bomber jacket
    • Pierre, great lover of luxury made in China
    • Paul: at the right time

On the radar of...

The weather is nice. It is mild. You take advantage of the weekend to stroll the streets of your city. Peacefully, you wander the aisles when suddenly, you instantly flash on a piece trapped in a window.

You don't necessarily buy it, but it will definitely stay in the back of your mind for a few days ...

Rest assured, you are not alone! Here, we tell you about these articles which, for a moment, made our hearts beat a little harder.

Clémence: spring scents

Very sensitive to the world of perfume, I am also curious and love discovering new fragrances that match my tastes. With this in mind, I went to the Nose boutique to discover new scents based on rose and iris.

Immediately, I fell in love with the “Silver Iris” from the Atelier Cologne brand. For your information, and as its name indicates, this is a House entirely dedicated to cologne and which promises rare, precious and unexpected perfumes.

This is precisely what seduced me when I smelled this one: a destabilizing juice where aromas of iris, mandarin, violet, blackcurrant and even patchouli dance. In short, a bold combination that works very well!

I appreciated the evolution of this absolute cologne on my skin.

silver iris perfume

The 200ml bottle is sold in a box with a 30ml travel spray.

Personally, I like to change perfume regularly and combine it with my outfit of the day (don't ask me how I make my choice, it's above all a question of feeling). For me, a fragrance is as essential as a good basic. For example, I would wear this one over a minimalist and elegant outfit.

Mixed, it would go just as well on a man's neck to accompany a light linen shirt. Ideal for a balmy summer evening...

A big fan of leather, I was also seduced by the customizable box that adorns the small travel spray offered.

silver iris perfume leather case

You get the idea: for me, wearing this perfume is just as pleasant as wearing a beautiful designer jacket from a confidential brand.

Nicolò: easy-to-wear traditional workwear

I have never hidden it: you, the community, are one of my greatest sources of discovery!

It sometimes happens that a reader asks me my opinion on a brand or a piece, and I find myself just as attracted as him by a concept, a design, a material...

Yesterday one of them contacted us on Facebook to suggest the Old Town brand.

It is probably a small workshop which specializes in 100% workwear clothing , quite traditional in inspiration, but a good part of which is very easily wearable on a daily basis.

Little extra: the brand sells almost all of its models made to order , that is to say on order.

Although it is not a measurement, you can personalize it as you wish by choosing the collar, the buttons, the lining and especially the fabric (most of which is English).

medway old town blue flannel

The Medway in a beautiful blue flannel. Perfect for mid-season!

I particularly fell for this "Medway" jacket: its slanted chest pocket gives it a resolutely modern touch, which contrasts with its apparent classicism. In addition, its reduced length makes it more adaptable to a contemporary style.

With that, I can already see myself composing great layerings with great contrasts of styles between now and next fall!

medway old town gray stand collar workwear

Here it is in a version made a little more precious by the color and the straight collar.

The design of the room plays the role of a "neutral support", allowing the material to express itself a lot and allowing relatively simple changes in style.

Take a look at the photos of the chambray or seersucker version to see what I'm talking about.

Among the other pieces that caught my attention from them, more workwear vests to change a bit from those from tailoring, and the "unity pants" .

old town workwear jumpsuit

The pants are presented with the jacket. The whole thing is supposed to form a real “work suit”.

Yes, there is some risk taking on these slightly “carrot” pants, with a drawstring fastening and very large pockets. But if they are a little tighter at the leg opening, I see a lot of possibilities with...

Finally, note that for made in the UK, with pretty materials (of your choice, what's more), the prices remain very fair, especially considering the current exchange rates between the euro and the pound!

Japanese inspirations from Pierre

Due to my student budget, I have a few pieces that are starting to get a little old and need to be renewed!

After seeing (and savoring) some illustrations of denim washes dyed with indigo and khaki (the fruit), I was keen to obtain such a piece.

Recently, I came across these Naked & Famous "Natural Indigo x Kakishibu Selvedge" jeans which have the particularity of combining these two characteristics , all with a very beautiful frame.

I admit to being intrigued, especially since such a purchase would be an opportunity to discover the know-how of Japanese artisans with a traditional kakishibu dye. .

naked and famous denim jeans natural indigo khaki dye

Admire the ocher color of the reverse, symptomatic of the Kakishibu dye.

Furthermore, I would like to tell you about this Bleu de Paname kung-fu jacket that I have been eyeing for a while. I had already really liked the previous model in cotton twill, but this one (in seersucker) really caught my eye.

The Chinese buttons and the little "mao" type collar really remind me of the silk suits that I have seen on the shoulders of certain tai chi masters.

paname blue kung fu jacket

Chinese inspirations at Bleu de Paname .

The material, the pockets and the cut create a workwear spirit that appeals to me! So, I'm thinking of taking a trip to the store to see what it looks like in real life.

Paul and his summer desires

That's it. Barely a few rays of sunlight break through the clouds of the capital and I'm already starting to dream of summer. Ah summer... The beach, the gentle sound of the waves breaking in the distance, the scent of the pine forests heated by the zenith and... the cries of hysterical children.

In short, for a few seasons now I've been looking for a swimsuit that's a little out of the ordinary without falling into the “floral surfer shorts” cliché.

Being a surfer myself, and keen above all to avoid this stubborn stereotype, I was looking for something comfortable, sober, while avoiding being boring. And you know what ? I think I found what I was looking for with these Seagale swimshorts !

seagale swim shorts

The Seagale shorts in question, in their blood red version.

Beneath its simplistic appearance, it is a small summary of technological innovations: a stretch fabric for comfort, adjusted enough to avoid the parachute effect, water-repellent and breathable.

Lightweight, they have all the features you would expect from a versatile summer short. In terms of style, we are on simple and effective basics.

seagale swim shorts

Considering the number of colors offered, there is no doubt that everyone will find what they are looking for. Those less cautious can even venture out with it in the evening for simple summer outfits, for example with a plain t-shirt and a pair of espadrilles.

seagale swim shorts

From the most sober to the most garish, these shorts are available in different colors.

Obviously, putting €100 into a pair of shorts may seem absurd but it is (in my opinion) a coherent investment. It will accompany you for 5 or 6 years and will compensate in the long term for the €20 “disposable” swimsuits that you buy every year before going to the sea.

And clearly, in terms of style, there is no photo...

Team purchases

As usual, I'm talking to you here about the pieces that have recently become part of the team members' locker room .

A little pleasure at the end of the month or a carefully considered purchase, our four friends explain to you below the reasons which led them to acquire this or that item. Come on, let's check out!

Hats off to Clémence

Fan of headwear , for me the hat is essential in a wardrobe (especially feminine, I agree)!

Personally, I prefer them with wide edges and wanted to acquire a Borsalino type. So, I turned to the “Neofarmer” mixed model from the Emmanuelle Khanh brand .

For information, Emmanuelle Khanh launched her eponymous brand in 1969. It offers both ready-to-wear and accessories that are simple, elegant and entirely made in France, for both men and women.

emmanuelle khanh borsalino hat

In merino wool, this Neofarmer is enhanced by a leather and brass link.

Handcrafted in accordance with traditional French millinery techniques , this high-quality hat is for me a timeless, easy-to-wear accessory. Nothing like it to assert a look!

Nicolò: all-terrain chukka and Japanese shirt made in France

Maybe you've heard of Orban's? This is the entry-level sister brand of Septième Largeur , which has acquired, like its big sister, the reputation of having an excellent quality/price ratio in its niche.

I had never taken the plunge because I found their offering a little too “serious”, too “officewear” oriented. .

However, a few weeks ago, I went ahead and purchased this pair of grained calfskin chukka boots . Well frankly, I have to say that for the price, I don't regret my choice at all!

orban's chukka boots

I really like this light brown color which leans towards burgundy, and the relaxed look of the grained leather.

The rubber sole is robust and promises to last a good while, while offering significant comfort. The leather marks very little, its color is deep, the finishes are decent and the leather lining is clean...

Big bonus (especially in this price range): Norwegian stitching. This detail directly propelled them as my new “default choice” on rainy days.

Second very nice surprise this month: the very young shirt brand FYU

The concept: beautiful, well-cut shirts in original Japanese materials, made in France in a renowned workshop, all at an affordable price thanks to crowdfunding!

You know what we think of "blue washing" at BonneGueule... but when it reflects real know-how coupled with good taste, as is the case here, we can only salute the initiative!

A small particularity about the current collections: the shirts are in very limited series and are numbered from 1 to 50, to echo the name of the brand .

You therefore choose the number from the list among those which are still available.

The model I chose? The Shoreditch , a shirt in a beautiful light gray Japanese cotton, thick and speckled with small multicolored dots.

fyu shoreditch shirt

A very beautiful design in my opinion. The shape of the pocket responds very well to the rounded collar, the American throat accentuates the casual side. Everything is well proportioned...

Superb quality manufacturing with English seams, tightened stitches and a perfect cut.

In addition, certain appreciable details bring personality to the piece: white horn buttons, contrasting stitching...

Only problem ? The placement of the small numbered label. I find it too visible since it is under the last button, especially since it is sewn after order, so not as neatly as the rest of the shirt. It's a bit of a shame but hey, I'm quibbling.

Regarding the numbering... It's a small vanity that didn't matter to me until I was faced with the choice.

I was delighted to see that no one had the "geek culture spirit" to choose #42 , and I realized that after all, it was quite nice to have a unique shirt! A little vanity, I tell you...

fyu shoreditch texture shirt

The stuff of Shoreditch, seen up close.

Pierre: a look at a favorite

I had already told you about these Masunaga GMS-805 glasses during a previous Selvedge Minute but I can't resist the pleasure of sharing this love at first sight with you again.

Despite the ugly sunglasses the exhibition model was adorned with, I instantly fell in love when I saw this pair in the window. I was immediately won over!

masunaga gms 805 glasses

It almost makes you want to have a divergent strabismus, right?

Very precise finishes , a pretty blonde tortoiseshell that takes the light well and super dense materials on a very light frame... all arguments that motivated my purchase.

Since my glasses are screwed onto my nose all the time, I really linked business with pleasure on this one.

In short, a beautiful love story that begins...

Paul: 48 hours flat

Seeing the look on my two Eastpaks from my college years, I said to myself that a real man's bag wouldn't be a luxury.

I wanted something really beautiful, preferably in leather and with a rootsy workwear feel . That’s when I came across an article mentioning the Bleu de Chauffe brand. I took a closer look and the design immediately caught my eye.

48h weekender blue heating bag

Mix a classic (almost retro) design and beautiful materials: you get a bag that will stay with you for a good part of your life.

I loved this weekender but the price immediately calmed me down... Disappointed but not dejected, I searched on Leboncoin for days before finding the perfect ad : “ Blue business 48h heating bag, Irving model ”. The price ? 230€, negotiated at 180€ with the seller.

48h weekender blue heating bag

Practical, versatile, elegant and solid... what are the people asking for?


Since then, he has accompanied me everywhere (evenings, work, weekends, etc.) and I think he will be my traveling companion for many years to come.

The grain of madness

You are starting to get used to this section which allows our friends, in the time of a paragraph, to enrich their wardrobes (or their apartments, toiletry bags, cars...) with an extravagant piece and/or shifted.

Unlimited budget, zero restrictions and total freedom : these are the rules of the grain of madness.

Clémence empties her bag

I've been dreaming of acquiring a beautiful leather travel bag, with a slightly masculine inspiration, for a long time. This unisex “Burlington” bag from the Smythson brand would do the trick!

I really like leather goods for their sobriety and elegance. The English luxury brand offers just that, with clean lines that are very pleasing to the eye.

burlington smythson bag

1795€ and the deal is in the bag!

In grained suede leather, it has all the features of a perfect travel bag with its adjustable and removable shoulder strap, two large handles, cotton/nylon lining and large interior pockets.

Made in Italy, it can also be personalized with beautiful hot stamping.

Personally, I would wear it with a very summer outfit, decorated with a little panama...

Nicolò and his machine-washable suede bomber

This week, I worked a lot on the article presenting our Loro Piana wool suits. Obviously, by learning about the history of the spinning mill, I also had to take a lot of time to appreciate the brand's offering, particularly its most exotic (and expensive) products.

It's true: when we hear "Loro Piana", we don't necessarily think of their leathers... However, according to what Benoît told me upon returning from his visit to the workshops, they really didn't nothing to be ashamed of on this point compared to other major luxury brands.

This "Potomac" bomber jacket in suede lamb proves it perfectly... since it is machine washable at 30°. Just that !

loro piana suede leather bomber

Yes, this splendid suede lamb bomber jacket is machine washable. No, I don't know how that's possible.

Truth be told, I could have sworn that treatment that allowed a leather to undergo machine washes would have completely affected its hand and the appearance of the finished product. Yet all I see in this photo is frankly perfect suede.

loro piana suede leather bomber

The grain is superb. Well then, for a jacket at €3800, we clearly have the right not to expect less...

Even if the site is a little stingy with information on the method, it seems that we owe it to a treatment patented by Loro Piana called "Acqua Suede".

At the same time, I imagine that I would no longer have to worry if my suede jacket got wet. Necessarily.

Pierre, great lover of luxury made in China

Not long ago, I came across this luxury brand that I quickly came across in a former French concession in Shanghai. This is Shanghai Tang , founded in Hong Kong as its name does not indicate!

The brand's style is very inspired by the aesthetics of Asia from the Roaring Twenties, where silk tuxedos rubbed shoulders with qipaos in social evenings.

coat textures shanghai tang

Pierre particularly likes this coat for its rich and dense texture.

There are also more traditional influences, such as knotted frogs or officer collars.

I really like the mix between tradition and modernity (with more fitted cuts than in the mandarin era) and it really speaks to that part of me that decided to stay in Asia.

Paul: at the right time

I like beautiful things that last over time. Whether it's the wash of quality denim, the texture of a thick wool flannel shirt or the nuances of color of a patina on beautiful leather...

Today, it seems, I have an unlimited budget... so let's talk accessories!

IWC little prince aviator watch

13,500€ on the wrist... We don't deny ourselves anything, my Paul!

Recently, I started digging into the Rdresseurs blog to discover and better understand the wonderful world of watchmaking.

A complex subject at first glance, I quickly took a liking to aviator models. The watch you see above is directly concerned as the imagination of aviation is present on this model.

Indeed, this little marvel is a mechanical watch with automatic winding, which means that the movements of the wrist it wears wind the mechanism. No need, therefore, to wind this IWC manually (unless you only wear it on rare occasions).

Ultimately, this type of purchase represents a significant investment . Although very expensive, watches of this caliber (Omega, Rolex, IWC, etc.) last through generations if you take care of them and can represent an heirloom to pass on to your children.

The final word...

The sunny days are returning and with them, a multitude of stylistic possibilities.

SO ? Tell us everything. Your latest purchases? Your future purchases? Your last break or your next madness? We want to know everything in the comments!

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