Note: the costumes are now available on our eshop .
Disclaimer: Please note, we remind you that exceptionally, the launch will take place Thursday April 13 at 12 p.m.
I had the chance to visit the Loro Piana spinning mill, perched in the middle of the mountains, near Biella. Loro Piana being a very confidential spinning mill, it was a real privilege for Long and I to walk its aisles, amidst the purring of the machines.
Visiting the Loro Piana spinning mill is a bit like the culmination of nearly 10 years of existence at BonneGueule as this image of an impregnable and secret spinning mill sticks to him, preferring instead to let their fabrics speak for themselves.
Obviously, no possibility of taking photos or videos (like at Apple), but the emotions remain very vivid. Indeed, Loro Piana is known for its obsession with quality, as its name is regularly mentioned when talking about the most luxurious and rare costume fabrics... in the world.
I am very happy that BonneGueule is now part of the very closed circle of those who are lucky enough to see their raw wool transformed into costume fabric.
I still remember the moment, a few months ago at the office, when I half-spoken "our Loro Piana costumes" in a discussion. Nicolo hastened to interfere, to the detriment of any form of politeness
Are we going to make Loro Piana wool suits?!
Yes Nicolo, we are going to make costumes with Loro Piana wool. We're even going to do two, let me introduce them to you...
Fabrics to wear all year round
We chose two Super 130's "four seasons" fabrics from this exceptional mill: a navy Prince of Wales and a midnight blue basket weave.
The fibers come from the wool of Australian merino sheep, with a maximum diameter of 17 microns: the material is fine and supple, without being fragile.
Their weight
A Prince of Wales melted into the material
For the first costume, we chose a navy Prince of Wales woven in a soft and fluid plain weave.
We wanted a “business” blue suit, with a little something extra. A slight twist, without being extravagance or fantasy.
The pattern is melted into the material, it only becomes visible when you look at it.
From a distance, the suit just appears to be a nice solid navy blue. The subtlety of its lines and tiles is only revealed once you get closer and the light spreads over the material.
Why a basket weave?
For the second, we wanted something a little different, but through texture. A beautiful midnight blue basket weave, with an almost geometric structure and assertive grain.
It's an interesting way to discreetly explore variety in the plain formal suit, without going through patterns.
Just like the Prince of Wales, it is a material which will play a lot with exposure and distances, and whose complexity is expressed once we look at it a little closer.
This geometric side, with this particular texture, will allow the jacket and pants to be easily integrated into outfits that are not limited to tailoring , in particular by the slightly more "fashionable" effect it can have once it leaves its initial register.
Semi-canvassed suits
The jackets of both suits are semi-canvassed.
That is to say that between the lining and the fabric of the material, there is certainly an iron-on, but above all a tailored canvas
On our semi-traditional interlining, the tailoring canvas is present over the entire upper part of the blazer (up to the first button).
It is this process which gives a beautiful structure to a jacket and prevents it from collapsing on your bust, the canvas being rigid and flexible at the same time.
This provides some very interesting advantages:
- a much better fit at chest level,
- a collar that fits the neck and follows its shape,
- a beautiful backhand roll : the backhand roll is very beautiful and is not vulgarly crushed with an iron,
- greater durability : a semi-canvassed jacket will dye better over time, in particular because the tailored canvas will be much less affected during dry cleaning than a simple iron-on,
- the jacket adapts better to its wearer and follows their body and its movements.
A cut that you already know...
Nothing new on the cut, which is still that of our previous costumes.
The patronage was done by Mr. Caruso , a well-known name in the field of men's suiting.
A fitted jacket just right
The measured bending gives a cut which harmoniously highlights the sides , without making you look tight.
A cut that gives style to its wearer.
A supple and light shoulder
Following Italian tradition, the shoulder is supple and light . In our opinion, it is the ideal compromise between the structure of more padded shoulders (which tend to give an artificial effect to your build) and the nonchalance of totally unstructured shoulders (which especially flatter good builds).
And of course, a high armhole to keep clean lines and good freedom of movement.
Slightly tightened straight pants
You're probably starting to get to know this cut of pants well: it's the same as that of our other suits, and that of our gray flannel pants!
A cut that is neither too straight nor too fitted, which distinguishes it from jeans and chinos.
Classic and timeless.
On each pair of pants, you will have enough length to make the cuff of your choice .
Sartorial finishes from one of the largest European workshops
Always made in our Romanian workshop which makes all our tailoring pieces, renowned as the spearhead of regional textile know-how.
Horn buttons, or nothing!
Unsurprisingly, all of the buttons are made of horn and cross-stitched for added strength.
Purists will be happy to find the famous kissing buttons.
Neat pockets and solid assembly
As usual, you will find the so-called "barchetta" chest pocket, dear to our transalpine friends.
“Barchetta” meaning “small boat”, in reference to the inclined shape of the pocket.
As well as interior pockets cut directly into the material.
A sign of robust construction, the half-moon seams reinforce the highly stressed areas around the pockets.
As for the blazer...
... Than the pants.
Without forgetting the salt shakers on the armpits and all the finishes that we love.
How to maintain your suit?
Pressing required! Take your suit there once or twice a year, that’s more than enough.
Some outfit ideas...
Complementing a blue suit with a white shirt, brown shoes and a red tie is a safe bet. No chance of going wrong yet. Luca also adds a white pocket, enough to create a little reminder while remaining suitable for a professional context. ( BonneGueule Essentiels shirt , BonneGueule x Howard's tie , Meermin shoes)
Same principle with the basket weave suit. Thus worn, you are ready for your meeting day. ( BonneGueule Essentials shirt , BonneGueule tie , Harpo rings)
When mismatching a suit, make sure you get a very different jacket and pants. Otherwise, there would be a risk of believing in a “cobbled together costume”. Here, Luca plays with color by contrasting a dark blazer with very bright pants. The white and blue striped shirt fits easily into the middle of this palette, RAS on that side. ( BonneGueule shirt , BonneGueule pants , Meermin shoes)
This time, it is above all on the textures that Luca relies to mismatch his costume. Between the donegal of his blazer and the basket weave of the pants, he creates pretty variations. With a suit, the turtleneck is a relevant alternative to the shirt. The whole remains elegant and depending on the season, we can adapt the thickness of the mesh. This is even more the case with a cover. ( BonneGueule blazer , Six & Sept turtleneck, Meermin shoes)
A new outfit with blazer and turtleneck, but much less dressy thanks to the jeans. Gray, it remains sober enough to be worn with a blazer and creates a monochrome with the knit in the process. The white, all-terrain sneakers reinforce the relaxed look of the look. (Hircus knit, top secret jeans, Zespa sneakers)
Here, the yellow sweater clearly serves as a strong piece. Its color is soothed by the navy blue tones of the blazer and jacket. It's a good way to bring originality and freshness to a look, take advantage of the sunny days to wear bolder shades. (Maille Six & Sept, BonneGueule jeans - Kurabo , Zespa sneakers)
Which also works with suit pants!
There's something interesting about wearing suit pants with a white t-shirt, it's like two opposing elements coming together. Just make sure the fit of the tee is perfect, no cheating here! Moreover, boots lend themselves more to this kind of combination: neither too elegant, nor too neglected, they constitute a good in-between between these influences. (Muji T-shirt, Meermin boots)
How to get Loro Piana wool suits?
The costumes are now available on our eshop .
