Note: The costumes are now available on our eshop .
Disclaimer: Please note that we would like to remind you that, exceptionally, the launch will take place on Thursday, April 13 at 12 p.m.
I had the chance to visit the Loro Piana spinning mill, perched in the middle of the mountains, near Biella. Loro Piana being a very confidential spinning mill, it was a real privilege for Long and me to walk its aisles, amidst the hum of the machines.
Visiting the Loro Piana spinning mill is a bit like the culmination of nearly 10 years of BonneGueule's existence, as this image of an impregnable and secret spinning mill sticks to its skin, preferring instead to let their fabrics speak for themselves.
Obviously, there is no possibility to take photos or videos (like with Apple), but the emotions remain very much alive. Indeed, Loro Piana is known for its obsession with quality, because its name is regularly cited when we talk about the most luxurious and rare costume fabrics... in the world.
I am very happy that BonneGueule is now part of the very closed circle of those who are lucky enough to see their raw wool transformed into suit fabric.
I still remember the moment a few months ago at the office, when I half-heartedly mentioned "our Loro Piana suits" in a discussion. Nicolo was quick to interfere, to the detriment of any form of politeness. , and to exclaim:
Are we going to make suits in Loro Piana wool?!
Yes Nicolo, we are going to make suits with Loro Piana wool. We are even going to make two, let me introduce them to you...
Fabrics to wear all year round
We have chosen two "four seasons" Super 130's fabrics from this exceptional spinning mill: a navy Prince of Wales and a midnight blue woven fabric.
The fibres come from the wool of Australian merino sheep, with a maximum diameter of 17 microns: the material is fine and flexible, without being fragile.
Their weight allows them to be as versatile as possible and to be worn almost year-round, in most climates.
A Prince of Wales melted into matter
For the first suit, we chose a navy Prince of Wales woven in a soft and flowing plain weave.
We wanted a blue "business" suit, with a little something extra. A slight twist, without being extravagant or fanciful.
The pattern is melted into the material, it only becomes visible when you look at it.
From a distance, the suit appears to simply be a beautiful, solid navy blue. The subtlety of its lines and checks only becomes apparent once you get closer and the light falls on the material.
Why a braid?
For the second, we wanted something a little different, but through texture. A beautiful midnight blue braid, with an almost geometric structure and a strong grain.
It's an interesting way to quietly explore variety in the plain formal suit, without going all out with patterns.
Just like the Prince of Wales, it is a material that will play a lot with exposure and distances, and whose complexity is expressed once we look at it a little more closely.
This geometric side, with this particular texture, will allow the jacket and pants to be easily integrated into outfits that are not limited to tailoring , in particular by the slightly more "fashionable" effect that it can have once it leaves its initial register.
Semi-canvassed suits
The jackets of both suits are semi-canvassed.
That is to say that between the lining and the fabric of the material, there is certainly an iron-on, but above all a tailor's canvas over the entire area of the plastron and lapels.
On our semi-traditional interfacing, the tailor's canvas is present over the entire upper part of the blazer (up to the first button).
It is this process that gives a jacket a beautiful structure and prevents it from collapsing on your bust, the canvas being rigid and flexible at the same time.
This allows for some very interesting advantages:
- a much better fall at chest level,
- a collar that fits the neck and hugs its shape,
- a beautiful rolled back : the rolling of the back is very beautiful and is not vulgarly crushed with an iron,
- greater durability : a semi-canvassed jacket will dye better over time, particularly because the tailor's canvas will be much less affected during dry cleaning than a simple iron-on,
- the jacket adapts better to its wearer and follows his body and movements.
A cut you already know...
Nothing new on the cut, which is still that of our previous costumes.
The patronage was made by Mr. Caruso , a well-known name in the field of men's costume.
A jacket that fits just right
The measured curve gives a cut that harmoniously highlights the sides , without making you feel tight.
A cut that gives its wearer allure.
A supple and light shoulder
Following the Italian tradition, the shoulder is supple and light . In our opinion, it is the ideal compromise between the structure of more padded shoulders (which tend to give an artificial effect to your build) and the nonchalance of completely unstructured shoulders (which especially flatter good builds).
And of course, a high armhole to keep clean lines and good freedom of movement.
Slightly tight straight pants
You're probably starting to get to know this cut of pants well: it's the same as our other suits, and our gray flannel pants!
A cut that is neither too straight nor too fitted, which sets it apart from jeans and chinos.
Classic and timeless.
On each pair of pants, you will have enough length to make the cuff of your choice .
Sartorial finishes from one of the largest European workshops
Always made in our Romanian workshop which makes all our tailoring pieces, renowned as the spearhead of regional textile know-how.
Horn buttons or nothing!
Unsurprisingly, all the buttons are made of horn and cross-stitched for added strength.
Purists will be happy to find the famous kissing buttons.
Neat pockets and solid assembly
As usual, you will find the chest pocket called "barchetta", dear to our transalpine friends.
"Barchetta" meaning "small boat", in reference to the inclined shape of the pocket.
As well as interior pockets cut directly into the material.
A sign of robust assembly, the half-moon seams reinforce the high-stress areas around the pockets.
As for the blazer...
... Than the pants.
Not forgetting the salt shakers under the arms and all the finishing touches that we love.
How to maintain your costume?
Dry cleaning is mandatory! Take your suit there once or twice a year, that's more than enough.
Some outfit ideas...
Completing a blue suit with a white shirt, brown shoes and a red tie is a safe bet. No chance of making a mistake here. Luca also adds a white pocket square, enough to create a little reminder while remaining suitable for a professional context. ( BonneGueule Essentiels shirt , BonneGueule x Howard's tie , Meermin shoes)
Same principle with the braided suit. Worn like this, you are ready for your day of meetings. ( BonneGueule Essentiels shirt , BonneGueule tie , Harpo rings)
When you mismatch a suit, make sure to take a jacket and pants that are very different. Otherwise, it might look like a "cobbled together suit". Here, Luca plays on color by contrasting a dark blazer with very bright pants. The white and blue striped shirt fits easily into the middle of this palette, nothing special on that side. ( BonneGueule shirt , BonneGueule pants , Meermin shoes)
This time, it is above all on the textures that Luca relies to mismatch his suit. Between the donegal of his blazer and the braided pants, he creates pretty variations. With a suit, the turtleneck is a relevant alternative to the shirt. The ensemble remains elegant and depending on the season, we can adapt the thickness of the knit. This is all the more the case with a pocket square. ( BonneGueule blazer , Six & Sept turtleneck, Meermin shoes)
A new outfit with a blazer and turtleneck, but much less dressed up thanks to the jeans. Grey, it remains sober enough to be worn with a blazer and creates a monochrome with the knitwear in passing. The white, all-terrain sneakers reinforce the casualness of the look. (Hircus knitwear, top secret jeans, Zespa sneakers)
Here, the yellow sweater is clearly a strong piece. Its color is soothed by the navy blue tones of the blazer and jacket. It's a good way to bring originality and freshness to a look, take advantage of the sunny days to wear bolder shades. (Six & Sept knitwear, BonneGueule jeans - Kurabo , Zespa sneakers)
Which also works with suit pants!
There is something interesting about wearing suit pants with a white tee, it's like the meeting of two opposing elements. Just make sure the cut of the tee is perfect, there is no cheating here! Besides, boots lend themselves better to this kind of combination: neither too elegant nor too sloppy, they are a good in-between between these influences. (Muji tee, Meermin boots)
How to get Loro Piana wool suits?
The costumes are now available on our eshop .
