Hi it's Nicolò, and like every Friday, here's a new episode of (Very) Well Dressed for you.
Today a little refresher on a basic subject: leather, its quality, and how to recognize it.
This is a very broad subject, because the quality of leather cannot be reduced to a simple "checklist" that we could tick to ensure that we have a good product, but I have done everything to give you the MAX of information in the shortest possible time . 😉
Moreover, the aim of my subject is not to be limited to shoes , but to extend your judgment to all leather items: jackets , belts, leather goods...
While knowing that leathers intended for different types of products will not have quite the same quality criteria.
1. THE BASIC, LEATHER BY LEATHER
We get straight to the heart of the matter: I show you each type of leather, how to recognize it and what it actually is, and how to judge whether it is good or not.
Come on, can you guess in less than two seconds: “velvet” suede or nubuck?
We're going to talk about smooth leather, grained leather, nubuck, what "full grain" is , suede, corrected and bookbound leathers.
And also explain why sneaker leathers are not judged with the same quality standards as other smooth leathers!
You will also understand why, unlike that of your shoes, the smooth leather of this well-worn Common Projects has scratches that you will hardly be able to remove.
2.“DESIGNED IMPERFECTION” OR QUALITY PROBLEM?
Here, we are going to talk about the famous "patina", this phenomenon particularly linked to leather, supposed to beautify it over time.
And we will also talk about the difficulty in distinguishing a product with a "raw and artisanal appearance", which boasts the famous "imperfection" which is part of the manufacturing process, from simple poor quality .
Distinguishing one from the other is arguably what makes it most difficult to understand the quality of leather.
But, don't panic, I will still give you two "faults" that you will always be able to recognize on leather if they are present, whatever its type.
© Gustin
Gustin bag in “Chromxcel #8” leather from the Horween tannery.
3. REPUTATION AND CLARITY OF INFORMATION
Leather remains difficult to “read”, despite all the advice I give you.
By explaining to you how the leather products market works, I will show you why you need to pay attention to the reputations of tanneries , but also to the brands that use their leathers to make your shoes, jackets or accessories.
Because the quality of the leather on the finished product will not only depend on “who” they source it from.
It's not enough to have a beautiful starting skin: you still have to cut it correctly! Because the entire surface is never free from defects.
4. EXPERIENCE
You could know all the major tanneries like the back of your hand, have read all the articles in the world on the quality of leather... That wouldn't be enough.
Leather remains a highly sensory product: in the end, words can guide your interpretation, but only sight and touch can make you understand what I am saying here.
Go experiment!
5. HAVE REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS
After watching my video, you will be able to more easily judge "the good" and "the not so good" when it comes to leather... But that doesn't really tell you how high a quality must be to be judged good, and above all for what price !
The last few words will give you an idea of what to expect.
Good viewing !
PS: IN THIS VIDEO, I WEAR...
- A goat suede perfecto from Atelier Bertrand
- A Bourrienne Paris X shirt
