Note: The first part of this article on Pitti Uomo outfits is here (and all those on Pitti Uomo are here).
6. Short pants at Pitti Uomo
Feasibility in France: less and less risky (we've been seeing men roll up their pants in summer for a while now, even though there's not unanimous agreement on this). On the other hand, with dress shoes, it's difficult to show the ankle.
It's not complicated, 99% of the men at Pitti Uomo wear pants that leave the ankles clearly visible . So much so that I wondered if dressing in suit pants that break at the ankle is unthinkable for them.
Some pants are rolled up, others are deliberately cut very short. The interest is twofold: to circulate the air better and have no creases , unlike normal pants which collapse on a shoe (it is also the Jo Brothers , eternal supporters of short pants, who told me pointed out this detail).
What do I think of it ? This very casual way of wearing pants contrasts harmoniously with the sartorial rigor of an impeccably cut jacket and tie.
For my part, although I was quite hesitant at the beginning, I find that it adds a very easy summer touch , and it would be a shame to say the wrong language by saying that it gives a "fishing for mussels" effect.
Look at all the photos above, you'll see short pants everywhere...
Even straight-cut selvedge jeans are generously raised at the ankle...
Loafers and rolled-up pants go well with sober colors. Note the jacket which still serves as a strong piece.
7. Loafers or nothing else
Feasibility in France: it is in your interest to choose your shoes carefully, because the average French person is not used to seeing pretty moccasins.
Italians obviously love summer. And they celebrate it with perfectly tailored clothes, which they wear with moccasins and other loafers .
We're not talking about tasseled moccasins, but much more slender and fine moccasins, which never look old, a bit like the Tangerine moccasins launched by the two Filippos from the blog The Threef .
The men of Pitti definitely have a lot of taste for wearing elegant moccasins. In France, it is a shoe that is little desired, because the offer is not really exciting , and the loafer suffers from a too much reputation.
However, I have seen so many beautiful outfits with moccasins that you would have to be in bad faith to say that you can't do anything with them. Don't hesitate to choose them colored or textured as offered by the very pretty brand Raparo , it gives them a youthful look.
Two pairs of moccasins, one of which was worn with surprisingly long pants... As for the red Oxford shoes, they're an extremely rare species, I haven't seen many...
Another example of unconscious mimicry on red moccasins! It's quite unexpected, but it goes well with their outfits. I don't comment on pant length anymore, you know where I'm going with this.
Raparo moccasins that would not have made the gentlemen of Pitti blush.
8. The absence of visible socks in Italian style
Feasibility in France: very complicated with dress shoes, but totally possible with sneakers.
Corollary to the previous point, Italians do not wear knee-highs or socks in summer. Maybe they have socks, but it still looks like they're barefoot in their shoes. This puzzles me, because I find it frankly unpleasant, especially during periods of high heat.
I therefore rely on intensive use of invisible socks, such as can be purchased on the My Red Socks website. Whether with sneakers, Oxfords, derbies, or double-monks, few people wear socks and other knee-highs. The illusion of wearing shoes without socks is truly total.
In France, it is unfortunately (and strangely) frowned upon to wear dress shoes without visible socks: the French have not taken summer comfort that far.
That said, I highly encourage you to try doing it with rolled-up chinos and low-top sneakers. Experiment for at least a day.
Buttero sneakers worn without socks and with short pants: you can't get more Italian!
9. Regular use of sneakers with tailored pieces
Feasibility in France: easier than you think, even if it divides sartorial culture purists.
It's a particularly Italian style contrast: the top of the outfit is very dressy (jacket + shirt + tie + pocket square), but the bottom is much more casual, with rolled-up pants and old sneakers. If they are vintage Diadora , a typically Italian sports brand, your level of sprezzatura takes 100 points more.
Diadora ad with tennis legend Björn Borg.
The typical example of Diadora Vintage that Italians love.
It's fun to see how vintage sneaker styles are harmoniously mixed with dressier pieces. And I think it's a great gimmick to try. If you wear a pair of New Balances with a jacket, no one can tell you that you are too dressy, too strict, because you have sneakers. And no one can tell you that you're too casual because you're wearing a jacket. I think it's a great casual/dressy mix, easy to do, comfortable, and underrated.
Be careful, this works best with vintage models with a timeless design. But it is also possible to wear Nike Lunar Flyknit with a jacket. Although we then enter into high aerobatics.
Flashy color, assertive, but not too much. Very complicated to dose for a beginner!
Easier with a casual suit.
10. Generous use of accessories in Italian style
Feasibility in France: go for it!
From what I've seen, Italians at Pitti love accessories. Knitted ties are obviously legion, but it is very rare to see an Italian without his pocket square casually folded in his jacket pocket (Florian had written an article on the pocket square : he has been at BonneGueule for two years, and two years that he comes almost daily with a pouch).
For my part, depending on the opportunity, I let myself be tempted. It's a detail that goes surprisingly well in all environments and on most occasions, including outside of Paris.
Likewise, Italians wear a lot of bracelets. Milanese Special Selection had already talked about it, but as a French person, it is surprising to see how Italians like to accumulate numerous bracelets , on each wrist, and (especially) with very dressy outfits.
Quite honestly, it's a detail that I really like, because it gives a unique and spontaneous touch to an outfit. I wasn't the biggest fan of bracelets, but after tasting the Atamé and the Catherine Michiels brand that I wear every day, I will have a hard time depriving myself of them now: I will have I feel like something is missing from my outfit.
My Catherine Michiels bracelets and my Atamé When I Was Seventeen .
As for watches, I had been warned that Italy was one of the main markets for Rolex, so it is not surprising to see a waltz of Submariners and Daytonas, new and vintage, along the aisles of Pitti .
It should be noted that there is a very strong trend towards thick leather watch straps, such as OOO, a surprising brand of faded watches discovered in Florence.
I assure you that I saw a lot of men at Pitti with many more bracelets...
Very pretty outfit, in sober colors, but accessorized with great taste (and a well-worn double-breasted jacket).
A rather flamboyant way to wear a scarf...
The man on the far right is Guillaume Bo, who runs a very nice Facebook page: Men need more style . I'll also let you look carefully at the shoes and pants lengths.
Hat and beard to the pitti.
Big beard and colorful glasses that would almost overshadow his pants.
Indeed, for some, the beard is an accessory in its own right!
So, what are the Italian styles of Pitti Uomo worth?
Looking back, Italian style is an excellent synthesis of trends: the result is elegant, tasteful, often colorful, sometimes bold and always casual.
It's a style that has everything to be unanimously appreciated by those around you. Obviously, there can be some excesses, but given the reluctance of the French when it comes to clothing, you have time to see it coming.
In any case, when you return to France, the banality of French style is obvious. We always have the impression that an outfit is missing something: color, or a slightly bolder accessory. We are much more neutral and wise in clothing than our transalpine neighbors.
For beginners who don't always know how to decide between elegance and casualness, taking inspiration from the Italians at Pitti is a good starting point. It is then up to you to see if you want to explore this path or other styles.
So I summarize, to have a truly Italian style in summer , you need:
- beautiful leather moccasins , thin and slender (not car shoes). Bonus if they are well colored or in exotic leather,
- fitted, short, cuffed pants (bonus if they are very light in color, or you have decided to wear white pants ),
- no sock budget , except invisible socks,
- a thin belt ,
- a shirt with that famous Italian collar (called cutaway), and well open if you don't want a tie: I didn't see any man at Pitti Uomo wearing a shirt without a tie with just one button open (bonus if you have a " polo shirt" from G. Inglese ),
- lots of different bracelets (bonus if you have fancy rings and other men's accessories ),
- a clearly identifiable high-end watch (Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemar Piguet, Panerai, and bonus if it’s a very vintage Submariner),
- blazer with light colored buttons and spalla di camicia shoulders (bonus if there is a Milanese buttonhole),
- a pocket square (bonus if it’s fancy and folded in a – falsely – sloppy way).
This article is already quite long, but if you want to dig deeper into the subject, don't miss the essential article on Italian style from Milanese Special Selection , which demonstrates very relevant nuances. But also this very complete assessment of Pitti in which I completely identify.
Likewise, Hugo de PG has published two excellent articles on Pitti which very brilliantly transcribe the atmosphere of this show: Pitti de PG and the 10 questions about Pitti .
