Hem or cuff: which pant bottom to choose?

Cover photo source: Freshcotton , Brick+Mortar

We are regularly asked what to do with the bottom of our pants.

Should it fall straight onto the shoe? Should we do a reverse?

The answer is: “it depends”.

Of course, this answer doesn't help you much.

Let's take a look at the different criteria that help you choose one pair of pants rather than another.

Simple hem

A simple hem is created by folding the bottom of the fabric inside the pants and sewing it with a machine.

This is a basic finish, which you will find on the majority of pants on the market.

The material returns to the inside and is sewn, here with a so-called chain stitch seam. Jean BonneGueule

1. When to wear the simple hem?

First, know that all pants can be worn with a simple hem.

If you hesitate, you can always count on it: it's a default option of course, but it works.

Then, we can favor it for its refined aesthetic appearance, especially in the case where you wear shorter pants, which do not break on the shoe.

Rubinacci pants

Also, the simple hem is interesting for people who have short legs because the pants express themselves throughout the entire length, without interruption.

Jordan for example, who has rather short legs , regularly wears his pants like this.

Visual taken from the last episode of our Panache video series

2. When should you avoid a simple hem?

If you have long legs, pants that hang straight can make you look even taller.

Pants without visual break on a tall person = endless legs. 2Tall pants

In this case, a backhand (we'll talk about it later) may be appropriate to break up the leg line a little.

Hem with sewn cuff

A hem with sewn cuffs is achieved by first making a simple hem and then folding the fabric towards the outside. We then place two machine stitches on the sides.

The seam allows the cuff to hold in place, for a very clean visual result:

Camoshita Pants

You can watch this video to see exactly how it is done.

This is a finish to consider on dressier pants.

A few rare brands offer stockings with a sewn cuff by default, or offer to add it as an option to the purchase: Benevento , Scavini or Officine Générale for example.

In the majority of cases, to have a sewn cuff, you will have to go through the alteration box.

1. When to wear a sewn cuff?

The sewn cuff is a visual element that dresses the leg. That's reason enough to want to wear it: it's pretty, it adds a little something extra.

If you are looking for visually rich pants, it is worth considering, as well as the presence of pleats or an original closure :

Generally speaking, the sewn cuff is often appreciated by lovers of tailoring or sartorial style.

The reverse also offers an interesting horizontal break for people with long legs , whose silhouette is expressed more vertically.

2. What height for the reverse?

Traditionally, the reverse is made between 3.5 and 5cm high.

If you don't know what height to choose, I advise you to aim for between 4 and 4.5cm.

Around 4cm: neither too big nor too small. BonneGueule pants and shoes

Below 4cm, it is suitable if you have fairly short legs or want a more discreet look.

3.5cm, a more moderate height. Lanieri

Above 4.5cm, it is suitable if you have rather long legs or if you want a more assertive, more visible cuff.

Officine Générale offers some pants with a generous 5cm cuff

3. When should you not wear a sewn hem?

There is one fairly obvious case in which you cannot wear it, and that is if your pants are not the necessary length.

You need to have some margin in length plus make it: approximately 2.5 times the height of your lapel . For example, if you want a 4cm cuff, you must have at least 10cm more length at the bottom of the leg.

Source

Also, the sewn cuff is not ideal for smaller people with short legs because it disrupts the verticality of the leg.

However, if you appreciate the style it brings, you shouldn't absolutely forbid it either:

Hand cuffed hem (rolled)

This technique consists of folding the bottom of the pants outwards, by hand.

In this case, you can choose the height of the cuff and you can choose to roll the bottom of the pants once or several times on itself.

I imagine this is already something you do on some of your pants.

The result of a rolled bottom is more casual, less perfect than a sewn cuff.

We roll casual pants like jeans, chinos, cargo.

1. When to roll up the bottom of your pants?

You can spontaneously roll up the bottom of your pants when they are a little long . In this way, it is easily adjusted to the appropriate length without going through the retouching box.

Many men also do a cuff by hand because they appreciate the visual effect: this detail adds a little nonchalance compared to pants that fall straight.

Finally, rolling allows, on selvedge jeans specifically, to show the colored piping on the side.

2. What height for the reverse?

The hand lapel, a little lower than the sewn lapel, is most of the time between 2.5 and 4cm.

Don't worry too much about this: choose a cuff height that you like and which allows your pants to be the desired length.

3. How many times to roll up your pants?

Once or twice, your choice. Advise based on the desired length.

A pair of pants rolled up once. BonneGueule pants

Pants rolled twice. BonneGueule pants

There is a particular case it is better to roll twice: if the material of your pants is thin.

If you only ride once with thin pants, the cuff may not hold in place well and sag.

4. When should you not roll?

I see two cases where trailering is discussed:

• If the pants are really too long

If your pants are 10cm too long or more, rolling them down three or four times will create an unharmonious excess fabric around your calves.

In this case, it is better to have your pants shortened for alteration.

• If you are not very tall and have rather short legs

In this case, trailering is not necessarily a bad thing. What you should avoid is a lapel that is too high or too bulky.

In this example, the reverse is a little too high for this gentleman who does not look very tall:

If you make a backhand with a more reasonable height, around 3cm for example, the result will be better. Here is a good example:

Split bottom

The split bottom involves opening the outer seam of each pant leg a few centimeters.

In this way, the bottom flares out, with a visual appearance of bell-bottoms.

Dunhill Pants

It is found too marginally in humans to really consider it, but it seemed interesting to mention it all the same.

In idea, the slit bottom is more likely to be found on pants with a rather classic, tailored style. In ready-to-wear, Scavini offers this finish across its entire range.

The particular case of joggers: sewn or hand-stitched cuff?

As we saw above, we recommend:

• the cuff sewn on dress pants
• hand cuff on casual pants.

However, the line between casual and dress pants tends to become blurred these days. More and more pants are both a little dressy and a little casual.

Joggers, or pants with a drawstring, are a good example.

Drawstring pants can now be found in beautiful cottons and even wool.

What to choose in this case?

I think the drawstring is an element that brings a lot of relaxation to pants.

The sewn cuff is visually more formal, too formal compared to the cord.

Joggers, even woolen ones, seem better to me with a simple hem or rolled by hand :

Example with Suitsupply, which shows some of its rolled-up joggers

Learn more about pants

Choosing the right pant length

How to choose pants that fit correctly

Sewing: How to make an invisible hem?

Tips: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing and Wearing Quality Jeans

Is selvedge denim really worth its price?