Do you remember what you wore when you didn't know how to dress?
I bet you do. And I also bet you sometimes think back on it with a slightly mocking and nostalgic smile.
The truth is, you've made huge progress, and it feels good to tell yourself that from time to time.
Since then, illusions have been lost. Fears have been deconstructed. Habits have been born. And I am sure that today you are wearing some clothes that would have seemed ridiculous or overly ambitious not so long ago.
Yes, you have made progress, but some pieces still resist your insatiable sartorial thirst, am I wrong?
The double-breasted jacket tops the list.
It attracts you but it also scares you. Like a faraway country you've never set foot in.
And I know what you're thinking.
That you don't want to look like an old reactionary politician or even a gangster with a sprayer slung over his shoulder.
Legitimate. But I'll tell you one thing for sure: it won't happen.
Because you are in good hands.
In fact, worn well, the double-breasted jacket will enhance your appearance more than any other piece in your wardrobe. It will give you a charisma that is proof against the deadliest bullets of the haters . And, once you have tamed it, nothing and no one will be able to stop you from wearing it all the time and everywhere.
Now that's a big dose of confidence, right? Well, here, Miles Davis wears it with the matching pants, but it's even easier mismatched, you'll see!
The double-breasted jacket is made for you if:
- You want to wear a piece of clothing that gives you a lot of confidence.
- You want to express a certain panache in your appearance.
- You like clothes when they are playful.
- You just want to take it to the next level.
Precision: only one answer is enough 🙂
So, shall we continue?
What was the double-breasted jacket before?
Raise your hand if you don't want to know anything about the history of the double-breasted jacket...
Person ?
So let's go!
I'll start gently with an unexpected question: do you know why pea coats are crossed?
No ?
To allow sailors to close the right or left side of their jacket depending on the direction of the wind... Not bad.
I'm talking to you about the pea coat, because it's a bit like the father of the double-breasted jacket: at the end of the 19th century in England, soldiers had lighter jackets made inspired by pea coats, to go and play sports.
However, it doesn't really work with civilian populations who find it "meh, meh, it's not formal enough for work so I'm not interested". OK.
So we will have to rely on someone with a much greater power of persuasion, and that person is the Prince of Wales. The man who gave his name to a pattern! The father of trends and stylistic transgressions himself.
Just because you have royal blood doesn't mean you're boring as hell.
This boost came during the Roaring Twenties. But unfortunately, it is insufficient.
Especially since the Second World War caused a shortage of textiles that forced manufacturers to focus on the essentials. And that is how the double-breasted coat was forgotten because it was considered extravagant and very fabric-intensive.
It definitely doesn't work.
Finally, it was post-war Hollywood cinema that brought the style to the forefront. This was the first real popular craze for the double-breasted jacket. One example is the film Casablanca , where we see Humphrey Bogart looking very stylish in his tuxedo jacket.
Paul Henreid on the left and Humphrey Bogart on the right, both united by the wearing of the double-breasted hat on the one hand, and by the love of the same woman on the other. Impeccable. Nothing sticks out. I would applaud if they could hear me.
And then, from the 1970s, the crusader festival began with Ralph Lauren of course and Nutters of Savile Row (now Chittleborough & Morgan) .
And the 80s went one better with Giorgio Armani and Hugo Boss!
Richard Gere in American Gigolo, dressed by Armani.
We will also remember (for those who were born I mean!), Miami Vice (Miami Vice) American television series which shows Ricardo Tubbs in sublime and sober crusaders...
That's when it must have gone wrong...
The double-breasted hat is everywhere, so much so that it provokes a fairly radical reaction: in the early 2000s, Hedi Slimane made it look old-fashioned with his slim surgical cuts and thin lapels like we had never seen before.
The end is over for the crusader.
The Crusader is dead? Long live the Crusader!
Now that you know all these things about the double-breasted jacket, I solemnly ask you to forget everything.
Yes I know, life is unfair.
I say this for your own good. Because it would be very difficult to wear this double-breasted jacket like in the past without looking like you're disguised or trying too hard. In fact, we need to reinvent the way we wear it. What am I saying, reinvent, revolutionize!
The double-breasted jacket is a piece with extraordinary stylistic power. It's like Thor's hammer, except that anyone can wear it!
Here is a modern and well-felt outfit. For spring, we remove the turtleneck and the hat and off we go.
If the simply exceptional photograph above hasn't convinced you (but I doubt it), here are 6 reasons to take the plunge with the double-breasted jacket:
- It sets you apart stylistically.
- It hides a carelessly ironed shirt.
- It helps to reduce excess weight a little.
- It makes a plain outfit stand out.
- It makes it easier to connect the top and bottom (having legs that are a little shorter than my torso, the crossed jacket allows me to give the illusion that my legs are longer than they actually are).
- As much as a straight jacket, it can be very elegant or very casual.
Yes, I know, now you are burning with impatience to own one of these wonders. And I will help you in this task.
How to choose the right one?
Sometimes in life, to wear a piece of clothing well, you just have to ask yourself: "But what would Lapo do?"
Does it suit all body types?
According to G. Bruce Boyer, only men with really wide hips should avoid wearing it. And G. Bruce Boyer is a prophet of masculine style, a bard and pope and all that at the same time. If I were you, I would trust him.
He wants the best for you.
When you are small
I often hear that the double-breasted jacket has the power to instantly shrink its wearer. It would be the Wayne Szalinski of sap!
I have four counterexamples to offer you:
- Humphrey Bogart was 5'8"
- The Duke of Windsor (the Prince of Wales seen above) was 1.70m tall
- Fred Astaire was 5'9"
- Ralph Lauren is 1m68 tall
Admit that they are not giants.
"Hello girls." I don't know if it's because the photo is well taken, but I think it works quite well. Well, that said, we don't have to have such pronounced shoulders. But if Ralphie does that, it's because the V shape, so dear to Clark Gable and Cary Grant, slenderizes the silhouette.
When you are small, however, you must take some precautions:
- As with all sleeved pieces, you should pay attention to the length of the jacket and sleeves when you are short (not too long).
- Also pay attention to the position of the buttons: they must be placed higher.
- Pay attention to the proportions of the jacket: the lapels should be positioned higher on the bust to give an impression of slenderness.
If you want to make a double-breasted jacket in half-measure or made-to-measure, you can always choose the button position that best suits your body shape.
By slightly enlarging the button square, we help to lengthen the silhouette a little. However, we should not exaggerate: we are talking about 1 to 3 cm, no more.
For the shorter ones, one technique used by the Duke of Windsor was to simply fasten the bottom button (which was supposed to never be fastened) and not the top one. This elongates the lapel and gives the impression of height. This is a technique called “Kent Style” which is said to have started the trend by the Duke of Kent. Ralph Lauren, Fred Astaire and the Duke of Windsor have all adopted the technique in order to appear taller.
Photo from Life Magazine. But what a giant! We see that the Duke of Windsor simply buttons the bottom button (normally forbidden). This technique allows to visually enlarge the bust and make it appear larger than it actually is. And secondly, yes, these are indeed asparagus.
When you are a little overweight
If you have a belly and the double-breasted jacket is cut in a suitable cut, I don't see why we should forbid ourselves from wearing it. I would even say that we are quite used to seeing overweight men in double-breasted jackets and it has never shocked me. In the name of what, exactly?
Some tips for wearing it well anyway:
- The best is to choose it with sharp notches, not too wide, which go up quite high. This reinforces the verticality. So it also works when you are small.
- Opting for half-measure or made-to-measure will always be preferable.
- And as I said a little earlier, to lengthen the silhouette, you have to space it out more the button square.
When you have few shoulders
So you should favor jackets with a little padding! Just a little, in the French style, because, I remind you, a structure that is too angular gives an impression of severity.
As for lapels, it is a good idea to have the point of the sharp notches reach halfway up the shoulder.
When you are tall and thin
As for slimness, the crossover can actually give you a bit of body, if that's what you're looking for visually.
As for your height, you need to make sure that the length of the jacket is sufficient, as well as the length of the sleeves of course. But you already know that, don't you?
To thicken yourself up a bit, you can opt for windowpane patterns for example! You can afford it.
The cut
Too much fabric would definitely ruin the silhouette. So you have to make sure to get it fitted enough. It's out of the question to be sausage-like, however, fitted doesn't mean too small. But it has to lovingly hug the curves of your body.
In doing so, if you notice a little tugging at the closed button, it's not a big deal at all. It's even considered very elegant by purists. It's a must that gives a natural look to a jacket that can otherwise look very severe. I'm talking about a slight tugging here. We agree.
As for the length of the jacket, it's the same, it should cover the buttocks at least halfway (nothing is more inelegant than a jacket that looks like a cardigan).
The button that you close should be just above the natural waistline (i.e. just above the belly button).
Fabio Attanasio shows you the ideal cut. The length of the sleeves is perfect. The shoulders are smooth and well defined, the curve is pronounced just the right amount! And the length of the jacket makes the silhouette harmonious since it divides it into two fairly equal parts. Bravo!
Details and finishes of your future jacket
We advise you to opt for:
- Patch or piped pockets (the former being more casual and therefore perfect for making the jacket more accessible to all styles)
- A good quality fabric made from natural materials (cotton, wool, linen, silk)
- Sharp notches unless it's a tuxedo jacket (shawl collar at that point is very becoming)
- Two comfort slits in the lower back
- A Neapolitan shoulder (with very little padding) to make it less stiff, that's important, gentlemen!
- Recommended button configuration: 6x2 or 4x2
Illustration borrowed from tailor Julien Scavini (Stiff Collar) . Yes, yes, he knows what he's talking about. The first two characters present the most wearable jackets of our days.
The color
What would you say?
It's time to have some fun, right?
As it is a piece that can quickly become strict and austere, you have to give it a bit of punch, a certain twist through color or material.
The possibilities that we see available to you:
- A deeper blue than a navy blue
- A persimmon or an olive
- A chestnut
- A beige
- A Bordeaux or wine lees
You can always take it dark blue, it's not a problem. It's more serious, that's all. But if you're a kind and smiling person like I imagine, then nothing is lost.
The reasons
Some people are not afraid of anything. Like this gentleman (whose name I have forgotten) who is the official muse of sprezzatura.
Since the double-breasted jacket is already a bold move in itself, perhaps it would be better to ask yourself first whether you feel ready enough. Yes, I am talking about it like a bungee jump. If not, a simple textured material can do the trick!
And if, beyond the texture, you want to opt for a patterned jacket, we recommend a faded Prince of Wales, in blues or grays. If you are tall, a windowpane pattern can give thickness to your silhouette (but I repeat myself).
How to wear it?
Just like the single-breasted jacket, don't button the last button. Leave it open, flying in the wind. If you button everything up, you'll come across as cramped, and therefore a bit uptight, if not downright gloomy. You wouldn't want to ruin all your efforts to wear the double-breasted jacket elegantly, would you?
Now, I'll make a confession: I often like not to close it at all and leave everything open. It's not very regulatory, but as far as I know, there's no police for that and no law either. But it's mostly quite enjoyable, for a reason that escapes me.
Tame her!
Mr. Sullivan is not intimidated by the crusader. On the contrary, he wears it crumpled (the material contains linen), as if he had just emerged from a night of debauchery in the company of the devil himself. Photograph by Garçon Jon (Jonathan Daniel Pryce).
Here it is worn in a careless manner. The jacket is not considered a pinnacle of elegance, but simply a tool of his own expression, of his own destiny, his daily uniform that he wears with pleasure. He says nothing and yet one could say that it is his favorite.
Relax her!
At Pitti, the double-breasted jacket is the cassock of the peacock.
Striped sweater, faded jeans (we could have found better ones, by the way), Stan Smith sneakers and a clutch. It's easy to recreate that, right?
Believe it or not, it also works with beige or colored chinos.
Italian style
Interesting overlay. Completely unlivable in summer, but interesting.
The Pitti people are not normal people, you wouldn't believe it. They have extraordinary sweat glands that close when exposed to heat. So much so that the hotter it is, the less they sweat. This physical peculiarity means that they can stay for hours posing while the sun methodically beats down on the top of their heads.
Jokes aside, a denim jacket worn under a double-breasted jacket is possible in spring, provided that the first is thin enough of course to not look tight and that the second has a wide enough cut (but not too unlucky!).
Notice the flamboyant use of running shoes!
Take Ivy
Shuhei Nishiguchi when he's late to do what he has to do. What do all these people do for a living, besides dress well?
Imagine what this outfit would be like without the double-breasted jacket. A complete hoax? No, I think you're exaggerating a bit.
It wouldn't be bad, though. But would it be exceptional? Not really.
In fact, the jacket has the power to make any ordinary outfit extraordinary. And this is proof.
The selection
This is the kind of piece you save up for, I'm afraid. Or else you wait for the sales. It's quite logical when you think about it, there's work on this jacket. The construction has to be neat. The cut doesn't tolerate approximations. A bad fabric and it's a disaster. Please, we have to stop it from shining!
But your tastes are now more refined and you must trust yourself!
- SuitSupply is always a good option for low-cost tailoring. The fabrics are good quality and the finishes are correct. A very good entry point, despite the presence of often very wide lapels, which personally delights me in this price range but which can be scary at first glance. (It is said in the industry that a SuitSupply store should soon see the light of day in Paris... But don't ask me for information, I don't have any.)
(299€) An example of an easy outfit to make in the morning. Perfect for a first double-breasted jacket!
- Cadot is still worth looking into. The products are well positioned and the work is neat.
(380€) I would be quite curious to try this tobacco-colored jacket from Cadot. It is not very difficult to wear. Brown is an underrated color for clothing. While it is so natural.
- Editions MR : the double-breasted jacket is a constant with them. In the defense of a Parisian, or rather French, style, he declines it with a certain phlegm. At Editions MR, the double-breasted jacket is worn open, as if it were a simple shirt open over a t-shirt, casually, without thinking about it.
(490€) Typically the kind of piece to calm down with the salutary help of a white t-shirt and jeans. Not the easiest to assume: it requires a slightly advanced style.
- Wicket : Having been to their stores several times, I always find Wicket products to be successful. In my humble opinion, you should avoid dressing there from head to toe (although...) but the tailoring pieces are definitely worth a look.
Suit jacket. All for €640. Beautiful finishes, beautiful fabric. You can't really tell it apart but it's not a plain, but a subtle and elegant check. You wouldn't happen to have a wedding to attend this summer?
- Hackett : I quite like Hackett. You might have to be wary of some pieces now (coats?). One thing is for sure, I would only buy from them on sale. But the very English DNA is pleasant and I always find their products to be fair.
(€650) Double-breasted jacket inspired by the blazers of 19th century rowing clubs in England. It's still quite successful. Difficult to wear. But quite successful. That said, you have to be careful of the gangster effect with the stripes. Here, the color prevents this connotation, in my opinion, but you have to keep it in mind.
- Lardini : Yes, you guessed it, it's an Italian brand. First a spinning mill, and then a family story above all! Many lines, different collections. The lookbooks are successful and will give you new ideas for clothing combinations. The flair is there.
(€670) Unstructured wool and linen jacket. Italian style. This jacket is not cheap, that's for sure. But, in my opinion, this is how a double-breasted jacket should be. It should be worn without pressure, in soft and warm colors at the same time. I would wear it with a white shirt, jeans and sneakers. And you?
- LBM 1911 : Lardini's competitor. It has the same Italian flair, neutral tones, earthy, pastel, well-chosen. It's beautiful, it smells of sunshine, it's our holiday wardrobe in Puglia in Italy. Or elsewhere, even in France as long as there's the sea, as long as there's wind and sunny terraces. And if it's not there, the sea, it doesn't even matter.
I didn't find the price, but I imagine it's in the same category as Lardini. Honestly, don't you see this jacket on you? Well, it's worth trying anyway! A little chambray shirt would be nice... with raw jeans, come on! And why not colored espadrilles. How would you wear it?
The final word...
“The thing about the double-breasted jacket is that it’s for men, not little boys!” Glenn O’Brien.
I don't quite agree with Glenn O'Brien - for once - but I would say that the double-breasted jacket has the power to turn boys into men. It 's more effective than an initiation rite to pass into adulthood. It instantly adds a thick coat of hair all over your body and injects you intravenously with a good dose of virility.
What is certain is that you have to be ready.
What is also certain is that life is too short not to wear things that we enjoy wearing. Besides, do you remember? G. Bruce Boyer gave you the green light, no matter your body type (except maybe men with very wide hips).
Finally, I must stress the vital importance of alterations: shortening, adjusting, moving a buttonhole! So much work can be done on your jacket to make it perfect. Sometimes, all it takes is the keen eye of an expert to radically change the way a garment fits you.
So, when did your love affair with the double-breasted jacket begin?
